My DCT conversion to M3 GWS/FLASH

[Stokes]

Couple quick questions...

1. Will the transmission hold against red line now or does it up shift automatically (DME vs TCU control logic)?
2. Wonder if this will also work in the 1 series (KOMBI is different) without replacing cluster for 3 series cluster?
3. What are the VO changes (didn't see that in the thread)

I would love for the M programming versus the automatic trans style logic of the non-M DCT. Aka, in neutral until you accelerate. Would also love (for AX & road course purposes) to have the car bounce off the rev limiter versus up shifting (low traction - wheel lift - situations). It looks fairly obvious that if done in a 1-series the cosmetics would be bad unless someone could 3D print a new plate around the shifter (not that same console shape as the 3-series).

EDIT: found answer to #3 in a previous thread.
"Remove $2TC (dual clutch gearbox); Add $2MK M Double Clutch Transmission W/ Drivelogic; $2MD M Drive"

EDIT 2: installed and tested #1 (yes, it holds redline). I skipped #2 as I wanted the larger gear readout.. not possible with the e82 cluster.

 

[aus335iguy]

Hey @dyezak or @TireDeathRacing Can you do me a favour and try something for me ?
I have a theory about the CIC menu - it doesn't change drive logic directly its basically just setting a preset for the m button.
Its purpose is to enable the driver to select all of the various paramters with a single button press. All the CIC is there to do is to allow you to set them all to what you like. To actually enact them though you have to press the button on the steering wheel.

To test - Set drive logic in that menu to say S4 and then leave the menu - Change drive logic via the button on the console to D2 then press the button on the top left of the right steering wheel spoke... What does the drive logic display? Did the drive mode change?

 

[dyezak]

I tried it and nothing happened.

 

[aus335iguy]

Do you have your Can shield working yet?

 

[dyezak]

I do not....not enough time in the day.

 

[LMB335is]

@aus335iguy Don't get too excited though. Installed my cluster today. This is what you get with one press of the DTC/DSC button, but maybe if the M3 ABS/DSC unit will install and take, it may mean something then.

 

[derekgates]

This thread has me extremely excited as an owner of a 335IS. The DCT is a good transmission but the software has let me down many times. Shift speed is fine, but my problems are mainly with hesitations to what gear to be in (D or S mode), and hesitations when slowing down to ~10MPH and trying to apply power (slowing down then trying to accelerate again).

I currently have all of the parts to get this mod done with exception of 6/8 pin connectors and 'triple button' in console.


That being said:

- Is the 2.56 diff causing any issues other than harsh shifts?
- How driveable is this setup without the M3 diff?
- Does the car act like before in regards to 'crawling' when not in N or P?

 

[aus335iguy]

@aus335iguy Don't get too excited though. Installed my cluster today. This is what you get with one press of the DTC/DSC button, but maybe if the M3 ABS/DSC unit will install and take, it may mean something then.

Was the cluster install hard? A guy was asking me about it the other day I haven’t done one
...It would have been good to code the VO without the cluster, see how it behaves, then make a change, rinse and repeat. Can’t wait to see it working !

 

[aus335iguy]

This thread has me extremely excited as an owner of a 335IS. The DCT is a good transmission but the software has let me down many times. Shift speed is fine, but my problems are mainly with hesitations to what gear to be in (D or S mode), and hesitations when slowing down to ~10MPH and trying to apply power (slowing down then trying to accelerate again).

I currently have all of the parts to get this mod done with exception of 6/8 pin connectors and 'triple button' in console.


That being said:

- Is the 2.56 diff causing any issues other than harsh shifts?
- How driveable is this setup without the M3 diff?
- Does the car act like before in regards to 'crawling' when not in N or P?

I think reading the posts no only issue seems to be fumbled downshifts
Seems drivable
No it won’t crawl.

 

[Redi132kw]

I’m busy with this install as well in my 135i
Been running a M3 DCT cluster for a while
I haven’t had any chance to test drive to see what it’s like with the gts flash and m3 gws but so far so good
Everything seems to be working
Pics of the cluster were taken before I did the coding

 

[doublespaces]

Oh wow, nice to see another report of this working

 

[LMB335is]

Was the cluster install hard? A guy was asking me about it the other day I haven’t done one
...It would have been good to code the VO without the cluster, see how it behaves, then make a change, rinse and repeat. Can’t wait to see it working !

Probably the easiest thing to do out of all of this. Literally two screws, work it out, one connector, swap, reverse process. Then just a default code of the KOMBI and redo any coding you want. I could see in the cluster background that MDM is not in our clusters, only the M3 cluster. I paid a premium for this cluster, the guy I bought it from specializes in this. You can't tell it from a new one. I don't mind used parts, but if it's something I'll see or touch every day I want it new or like new. PM if anyone wants contact info for him.

 

[LMB335is]

I’m busy with this install as well in my 135i
Been running a M3 DCT cluster for a while
I haven’t had any chance to test drive to see what it’s like with the gts flash and m3 gws but so far so good
Everything seems to be working
Pics of the cluster were taken before I did the coding

Did you modify the sport button cutout for the drivelogic button and what are you doing for a shifter boot?

 

[Redi132kw]

Did you modify the sport button cutout for the drivelogic button and what are you doing for a shifter boot?

Yes I modified the cutout with a dremel and filled it up to the shape of the drivelogic switch then sanded it down and painted it matt black

I removed the base plate from the stock shifter and having the M3 shifter covered in alcantara so that it fits my console

Should be done tomorrow

 

[aus335iguy]

Yes I modified the cutout with a dremel and filled it up to the shape of the drivelogic switch then sanded it down and painted it matt black

I removed the base plate from the stock shifter and having the M3 shifter covered in alcantara so that it fits my console

Should be done tomorrow

That sounds great post some pics won’t you ?

 

[LMB335is]

Yes I modified the cutout with a dremel and filled it up to the shape of the drivelogic switch then sanded it down and painted it matt black

I removed the base plate from the stock shifter and having the M3 shifter covered in alcantara so that it fits my console

Should be done tomorrow

Nicely done. Looks like you're taking your time and doing it right.

 

[RSL]

I was thinking the same thing: just adding the mode select and fitting a boot if the button cluster isn't needed for anything other than EDC.

I'd have this done already if I wasn't semi-concerned about keeping the 2.56. Moving the car is one thing, having it operate well under high load/torque conditions is another. Might be able to get worked around in tuning, but not sure how much can be done in DME aside from torque requests, output, etc. and what could be done in TCU to compensate.

 

[aus335iguy]

I was thinking the same thing: just adding the mode select and fitting a boot if the button cluster isn't needed for anything other than EDC.

I'd have this done already if I wasn't semi-concerned about keeping the 2.56. Moving the car is one thing, having it operate well under high load/torque conditions is another. Might be able to get worked around in tuning, but not sure how much can be done in DME aside from torque requests, output, etc. and what could be done in TCU to compensate.

Im the same as you but im hell bent on doing it and changing the diff as well... Saving my pennies for house in sydney means not much left for toys...

 

[RSL]

Im the same as you but im hell bent on doing it and changing the diff as well... Saving my pennies for house in sydney means not much left for toys...

It’s gravy after the house, but I’d still keep a healthy savings stocked. Something needs replacing/fixing on a house, could be as much as used 335 lol

I wouldn’t mind the 3.15 if it were a second car for fun or I worked around the corner, but I drove an M3 DCT for years. It’s fun, but not a great commuter if your daily round trips are lengthy with a combo of stop/go traffic and sustained highway. I’d live with the pedal press engagement, but an N54 spinning 3300-3500rpm for highway speeds for long periods at a time every day, meh. Hopefully, with more people getting it done, there will be decent data/feedback generated on the stock FD, even if they plan on switching to an M3 rear shortly after.

 

[LMB335is]

I've managed to get a complete M3 drivetrain this past week for $1000. A diff and axles from a '13 with 30k miles and a driveshaft from a '13 with 13k miles. I'd like to save the $ and not have to change the ring and pinion but I think the 3.15 is just too low. It's my daily and only do 8k a yr and maybe one road trip but I do 1/2 mile events and it just doesn't calculate out well for that. I'm not sure if it's the 2.56 in Darrick's car with the M3 software causing his downshift hiccups or something else but I think a I'm going to do a 2.81 if I can find one (diffsonline is out) or 2.93 and split the difference. If Jake can get the final drive signal figured out, all the better.