My DCT conversion to M3 GWS/FLASH

[dyezak]

So I'm getting ready to start my conversion this morning. I'm going to be following the steps below:

1. Pull a full ZB readout from INPA (for roll back purposes)
2. Flash the M3 ZB to my TCU
3. Check the vehicle operation and report back
4. Change my GWS to the M3 version
A. 335is GWS switched with M3 GWS
B. Sport button switched with M3 Shift Logic button
C. Repin the 335is GWS 10pin connector to the M3 GWS 8pin connector
5. Check the vehicle operation and report back
6. Update my module coding
7. Check the vehicle operation and report back
8. Update VO
9. Check the vehicle operation and report back

By the time I'm done this afternoon I should have full shift-logic and a funky shifting 335is DCT. I expect the rev matching to be off until adaptations re-learn. I also expect that the final portion (the M3 rear diff conversion) will fix this funky rev match that I expect.

Wish me luck!

 

[dyezak]

First post. To pull an INPA readout of all module ZB info:

1. Go into INPA and print off the complete UIF page with ZB# and programming info.
2. Close INPA completely and launch WinKFP.
3. I use comfort mode since it does everything that I need it to do.
4. Once you are in comfort mode, Click on Choose ZUSB and make sure that the programming data is loaded in there. If you dont have any data in there you will need to load it before you proceed to the next step.
5. Close the window that is showing the programming data and click on Enter Vin, Enter your complete VIN # of the car you are programming, and click OK, Vin will show up at the top of the program if it accepted it.
6. Click on Enter ZUSB and enter the ZB# from the UIF printoff from INPA, and click ok.
7. It should load the next window and show the module # and something in the right screen. You can leave those as default and click ok.
8. Click on Done, which will bring you to the programming page.
9. Make sure you car is hooked up to a battery charger before you start the programming.
10. Once you have everything good to go click on program and sit back and relax, it will go through and will say " You have 1 time left to program this ECU" click OK and it will flash it.
​

 

[dyezak]

ADR	Gen. Name	JobStatus	ZB No.	VIN No.	Date	Description
00	JBBF	OKAY	9264575	E617434	31.10.2011	Electronics Junction Box
01	MRS	OKAY	9184432	YYYYYYY	17.06.2010	Multiple Restraint System (MehrfachRuckhaltesystem)
12	DME/DDE	OKAY	8635268	E617434	08.04.2014	Digital Motor Electronics
17	EKP	OKAY	7276046	0000000	17.06.2010	Electric Fuel Pump (Elektrische Kraftstoffpumpe)
18	EGS	OKAY	7632583	E617434	31.10.2011	Electronic Transmission Control
20	RDC	OKAY	6795768	YYYYYYY	15.10.2009	Tire Pressure Control (Reifen Druck Control)
29	DSC	OKAY	6789304	YYYYYYY	10.06.2010	Dynamic Stablity Control (Dynamische Stabilitats Control)
36	TEL/MULF	OKAY	9231090	YYYYYYY	15.06.2010	Telematic Control Unit
40	CAS	OKAY	9262360	E617434	31.10.2011	Car Access System 2 / 3
55	ISBP	OKAY	9229740	YYYYYYY	15.06.2010	Plattform MULF2
56	FZD	OKAY	9225464	0000000	10.01.2008	Windshield rain sensor
5E	GWS	OKAY	9213647	0000000	09.06.2010	Gear Selection Module
60	KOMBI	OKAY	9242384	E617434	31.10.2011	Instrument Cluster
62	MOSTGW	OKAY	9273191	E617434	31.10.2011	Media Oriented System Transport
63	MASK/CCC	OKAY	9273160	E617434	31.10.2011	Car Infotainment Computer CICR¸ko
67	ZBE	OKAY	9205177	VK80811	30.09.2010	Central control unit
6D	FAS	OKAY	9221861	YYYYYYY	17.06.2010	Seat module driver
6E	BFS	OKAY	9221861	YYYYYYY	18.06.2010	Seat module Passenger
72	FRM	OKAY	9263799	E617434	31.10.2011	Footrest module Driver's side
73	CID	OKAY	9211969	YYYYYYY	21.05.2010	Central info display
78	KLIMA	OKAY	9263304	E617434	31.10.2011	Climate
92	VIRTSG92	OKAY	9180490	0000000	16.06.2010
A0	CCC	OKAY	9273189	E617434	31.10.2011	Hard disk in the CIC

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

 

[dyezak]

 

[dyezak]

OK, GS40 has been flashed to 7845773. In case you were wondering this is the M3 GTS ZB. Not the normal M3 ZB.

We are now in the 5min reboot/cooloff period. Once we wait that period I'll check the function of the car and report back.

 

[dyezak]

OK, at this point you will get a Shift Lever Malfunction indication in both the KOMBI and the CIC display. The GWS (shift lever) is completely dead and doesn't even light up.

Now it is time to switch over to the M3 GWS. Here goes!!!!

 

[dyezak]

Time to remove the old!

Well hello there cousin!

Enlisting a helper...

Here is the first interesting piece. The aluminum bolts that hold the GWS down are bolted into steel. The whole reason for aluminum bolts on an aluminum engine is to prevent a regular steel bolt in an aluminum block from causing corrosion. Well, BMW pulled a fuck-up here and they mixed metals. So on mine there was a slight bit of corrosion which made the bolts difficult to remove. Might want to spray them with some penetrating oil first.

And now you can see the difference between an M3 GWS and the 335is GWS. The M3 is on the left. You will have an additional connector on the 335is GWS, the blue one up top. That's the connector that controls the solenoid that kicks your shift lever back over to the right automatically for you if you press the park button while the shift lever is over in sport mode. This will be un-used when switching to the M3 GWS as everything relating to this function is no longer applicable.

 

[dyezak]

So far this is the first unforseen "complication". But to be honest this is small potatoes. We already knew we would have to repin the 10pin GWS connector to the 8pin GWS connector and the 2 unused pins are the ones that control the manual actuation of the "park" feature of the DCT that the non ///M cars have. All the ///M cars stay in neutral until the vehicle is turned off and then it goes to park.

What I found was the location of the connector. On the 335is the connector is on the back of the GWS unit, and on the M3 GWS the connector is on the front. That means the wiring harness will need to be slightly rerouted to allow enough slack to plug in the M3 GWS:

335is GWS with connector at the back:

M3 GWS with the connector up front:

And the wiring harness has the GWS connector near the CIC control knob out back:

 

[dyezak]

Now for the re-pin of the wiring connector from 10pin to 8pin:

P1 - Red/White 335is (Red/Yellow on M3) - POWER
P2 - White/Brown - DKG TRANSMISSION CONTROL
P3 - Red - PT_CAN HIGH
P4 - Blue/Red - PT_CAN LOW
P5 - Green/Red - CAS
P6 - Brown/Black - GROUND
P7 - Grey/Yellow - DRIVELOGIC/SPORT
P8 - Grey/Blue - DRIVELOGIC/SPORT
(P3 and P4 are a twisted pair, these are your PT_CAN wires and are twisted to help eliminate electrical interference in the bus)

P9 and P10 (unused in the conversion) were your 335is wires to control the PARK button.

 

[dyezak]

M3 GWS connector

335is GWS connector

Halfway through re-pin

Test fit and ignition on....ZERO ERRORS AND THE GWS FUNCTIONS!!

 

[dyezak]

OK, so the Sport button doesn't use the same connector as the Drivelogic connector. The sport button is a 4pin and the drivelogic is a 6pin with P2 and P6 left empty. The wires are all there. I hunted through an extra M3 chassis wiring harness I had and found "a connector" that would work. It's not the actual one, but it works. So I have to repin this thing too. Drivelogic pinout:

P1 - Brown/Black - GROUND (this was P2 on the 335is Sport button)
P2 - EMPTY
P3 - Grey/Blue - GWS+ (This was P3 on the 335is Sport button)
P4 - Grey/Red - FOOTWELL MODULE (This was P4 on the 335is Sport button)
P5 - Grey/Yellow - GWS- (This was P1 on the 335is Sport button)
P6 - EMPTY

 

[dyezak]

OK, so the wires from the GWS connector (P7 & P8) to the DriveLogic controler (P3 & P4) are too short. In the 335is these wires only had to stretch from the back of the GWS to the Sport button (at the back of the shifter). Now these wires have to go from the front of the GWS which is about 6" further forward. That means these wires need to be extended.

But I did go for a test drive, and at this state there are a LOT of bugs flaws that need to be fixed via NCS Expert.

First is park doesn't work at all. You'll get a transmission failure alert letting you know park isn't functioning and you'll need to use the e-brake.

Second is that when going to "D" mode the KOMBI drops to 0rpm and you lose all indication as to what gear you are in. M mode works flawlessly.

Third is the downshifts are extremely clunky (expected).

The good news??!!

The thing shifts like a freaking beast on upshifts! It makes the shifts on the factory setup with sport engaged feel lethargic by comparison. It is INCREDIBLE!!

 

[doublespaces]

Excellent work, incredible information.

 

[dyezak]

This is the 335is Sport button connector:

Here is the M3 Drivelogic switch:

This is my salvaged connector:

And after re-pinning:

 

[LMB335is]

Really good info. Interested to see if the VO editing, recode and DCT reset solve those issues.

 

[aus335iguy]

Well done mate!! Came for comprehensive instructions on how to do this... was not disappointed. If you can grab a TRC of the whole car it’d be great... otherwise can I borrow your helper and what’s his hourly rate ?

 

[dyezak]

After the hardware install was complete:

 

[dyezak]

The piece I didn't get a pic of is the park lock wiring. I'll see if I can photoshop something together for an explanation there. I double checked the wiring diagrams and the extra 2 pin blue connector actually needs to be connected to the 2 unused GWS pins. Simple simple, but I'll try and get some images for you guys.

 

[aus335iguy]

One test if you can? Deactivate DSC and see if you can get the 6th level of drive logic. Also Glenn Wyatt said that the shifts were as hard as what they were in sport mode. I wonder why yours seem much harder?

 

[dyezak]

One test if you can? Deactivate DSC and see if you can get the 6th level of drive logic. Also Glenn Wyatt said that the shifts were as hard as what they were in sport mode. I wonder why yours seem much harder?

I haven't done any coding yet and without it you don't get any drive logic access.

But I can tell you this...early WOT shift from 2nd to 3rd at 3500rpm lit my tires up. Never had that happen before.