K&P Engineering High Performance Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter

What kind of oil filter do you use? Diposable Paper or stainless steel?

  • Disposable paper filter (Mann, etc.)

    Votes: 36 85.7%
  • Stainless Steel (K&P Engineering High Performance Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter)

    Votes: 6 14.3%

  • Total voters
    42

Panzerfaust

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I got the finned cap for the durability and look. I don't expect any temperature difference at all. I hope to see some engine revving and response difference though from the steel filter and motul oil. I will definite report so you will see at least two reviews of motul of soon.
Yeah, I totally think the finned cap is worth it just for the reason of being far more durable long term. It's a minor thing in comparison but I also do really like the idea of being able to use whatever the hell I want to take it off too lol. I'm gonna end up ordering one soon but I've got some other small things I wanna throw on first.

Definitely looking forward to the reviews of this filter though, I just hope they include tangible and easily recreatable results rather than the short term hyperbole reviews we've gotten frequently over the years.
 

fmorelli

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Modern synthetic oils leave a lot less crap in the motors that old school conventional oils. They coke less, etc. Compare a 150k mile conventional oil head and a synthetic oil head - the former will have brown shit everywhere and the synthetic head will have a clean light brown tint. But that said running an engine flush from a reputable company once in a while (for me that's Liquimoly and BG) seems like cheap dollars insurance. When I do auto trans fluids (I don't believe in lifetime fluid in anything), I go somewhere that can do the trans flush as part of the fluid change. Again, it's just cheap insurance.

For turbo motors, especially these high performance cars, I'd do the 3-5k oil changes ... we cook the oil especially at the turbo. Other stupid little things I like - adding an N52 magnet in the oil drain plug.

On my diesel vehicles I'm I do flushes and fuel conditioners periodically since that's another dicey scenario between questionable fuels and all the emissions crap that is a nightmare on every diesel platform I'm aware of, but I digress.

It's worth doing an oil analysis with Blackstone Labs here and there ... educational and the price won't kill you ...

I'd consider the K&P Engineering filter ... but I don't believe I've seen a compelling case. Paper filters are pretty effective - ironically same on intakes where we have a penchant for running less filtering effective K&N type filters but I digress :dizzy:

Filippo
 
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Rob09msport

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People used to use transmission fluid to help flush engine to

I tried Motul 8100 x maxx 0w40 as it is supposedly ester based but then i read this https://540ratblog.wordpress.com
And have gone back to Mobil 1 0w40 i change oil every 3 to 5k tops and who cares if it shears down to a 30 anyway cause you want the thinnest fastest flowing lowest oil pressure/ restriction possible that still protects which is the film strength and that makes sense to me cause i always have been fascinated by piston rings and cylinder walls and have read excessively how it works. Then the sucker in me asks if you think that ceratec additive is worth trying once lmao
 

fmorelli

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... more reinforcement to why I'm moving to Motul 300V (from the blog article):

In comparison, the highest ranking oil (with no aftermarket additives) on my Wear Protection Ranking List, is 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T Racing Oil, synthetic = 112,464 psi, with a zinc level of 1724 ppm. That oil provides FAR GREATER wear protection capability than even the top ranked Amsoil Break-In oil here. And it provides nearly 2 1/2 times as much wear protection as the lowest ranked Joe Gibbs Break-In oil here.

But cripes that dude goes on and on and on and on and on. He can't even write a conclusion for crying out loud. Engineers love to show up and throw up.

Filippo
 
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Rob09msport

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... more reinforcement to why I'm moving to Motul 300V (from the blog article):



But cripes that dude goes on and on and on and on and on. He can't even write a conclusion for crying out loud. Engineers love to show up and throw up.

Filippo
Lol i know i ramble and i couldn't take it in one sitting. If i go single or when i upgrade twins i doing same for zinc content but the Mobil one performs excellent as well i think was third place i don't know how the hell that guy wrote everything he must have job writing dictionaries or encyclopedia.
 

Rob09msport

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6. 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, API SN, synthetic = 127,221 psi
This new oil replaces the older version called, 0W40 Mobil 1, European Formula, API SN, synthetic. See below for the older version’s ranking position.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This new “FS” version was tested in Summer 2016.
However, a 40wt hot viscosity rated motor oil is too thick to be ideal for most engines. It is best to select the thinnest motor oil viscosity that will still provide acceptable “hot” oil pressure. And you do NOT need to select the “highest rated” motor oil, just as it comes right out of the bottle, from this Wear Protection Ranking List. There are many highly ranked oils here, that will provide your engine with excellent wear protection. So, you have many oils to choose from.
That was from older part of article the more complete list shows that amsoil signature series 5w20 and 0w30 are best without additive and Mobil 1 6th overall 3rd without additive but for high zinc motul is deff best and it has less detergents and will be the best for short oci and track use.
 

fmorelli

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So @matreyia has been kind enough to buy this product and start a review thread. He's asked that discussion not be on that thread (as it is for posting data and reviews).

To me the #1 benefit of such a filter is to receive the value that K&P Engineering claims - improved oil flow. Anything else is honestly nearly irrelevant - who cares about cheaper long term cost (seriously, right), for example. Construction quality, ease of use, ability to clean - all not relevant if the primary benefit is unproven. This is not some piece of visual bling - it's an oil filter.

IMHO what one would want to know is the flow rate characteristics across various oil temperatures. This requires using an oil flow meter. Unfortunately those are not commonly used (except race teams and automotive engine development groups) - the sensors are $1k-$2k and up. The second would be oil temperatures measured in a repeatable fashion - this is second because changes can be made to the overall system that may have benefits coupled with increased oil flow, if it exists.

Alternatively there is a far more affordable oil flow meter (a few hundred dollars), which is analog, made by Hedland:
This is the unit: https://www.instrumart.com/products/10142/hedland-flow-meter-for-petroleum-fluids
It can be broadly configured: https://www.instrumart.com/products/configure/10142
The data sheet: https://www.instrumart.com/assets/HBdatasheet.pdf

K&P Engineerings claims of greater oil flow compared to a paper filter are good, but IMHO generic. The real question is, what's the actual oil flow improvement versus a BMW factory filter at various oil temperatures?

Filippo
 

NoQuarter

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Does the DME target a particular oil pressure? If so, any increased flow will still result in the same pressure but with just less work done by the pump?

If the pump is working less, does that mean the engine is working less to run the pump?
Does it mean that more oil gets filtered in the same amount of time?

The net real benefits may just be that all the oil gets filtered vs passing by the paper filter via the bypass.
 

fmorelli

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Does the DME target a particular oil pressure? If so, any increased flow will still result in the same pressure but with just less work done by the pump?

If the pump is working less, does that mean the engine is working less to run the pump?
Does it mean that more oil gets filtered in the same amount of time?

The net real benefits may just be that all the oil gets filtered vs passing by the paper filter via the bypass.
The issues is more in competition situations, I suspect. At least for road race guys, managing temperatures is the #1 problem. Don't know that it is an issue for the drag guys or street guys.

Filippo
 
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matreyia

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The issues is more in competition situations, I suspect. At least for road race guys, managing temperatures is the #1 problem. Don't know that it is an issue for the drag guys or street guys.

Filippo

I felt no performance differences at all...maybe a slight decrease in noise, but no power increase or anything. MPG cannot be reported until I fill up today and use by next week.

VT
 
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Rob09msport

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I have had paper filters have writing burn off. I am curious how the bypass works. Bypass with good filtration is how trucks setup for 25k or higher oci are setup. It does seem better to filter smaller particles out and just take more circulation to firs filter all the oil then filtering Less but faster and more efficiently. I feel the reduced pressure would be beneficial with short oci. More flow is the same as increasing surface area for cooling. As long as nothing big enough to damage bearings gets through we should be good, if i were diesel i might not trust this because of soot and ash.
 
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fmorelli

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@Rob09msport IMHO there is zero proven increase in oil flow until someone takes an N54 and does back to back measurements with a BMW oil filter and a K&P oil filter. Lab tests on a generic test rig are very useful ... if that same exact test rig is in our cars ... which it's not.

Filippo
 

matreyia

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@Rob09msport IMHO there is zero proven increase in oil flow until someone takes an N54 and does back to back measurements with a BMW oil filter and a K&P oil filter. Lab tests on a generic test rig are very useful ... if that same exact test rig is in our cars ... which it's not.

Filippo

I don't know about that. It was quite apparent to me that the K&P filter does have SIGNIFICANT AND NOTICEABLY less restriction. I did a home made test by trying to blow through the paper BMW filter vs. the K&P filter and it wasn't even close. That K&P felt like almost breathing normal. So I would think that if the pressure was the same, naturally the KP filter would definitely let through waaaay more oil. Now what I question is the filtration. I am skeptical of that claim that it is better filtration than OE while simultaneously flowing 7X more...that sound idiotic.
 

fmorelli

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Until it is tested in the N54 it is all intellectual postulation. That's just a fact. You can speculate with all the intelligence in the world, it's still speculation. The proof is in the pudding.

Filippo
 

fmorelli

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Does the DME target a particular oil pressure? If so, any increased flow will still result in the same pressure but with just less work done by the pump?
I thought on the N54 it only had the valve for controlling if the factory oil cooler is in the mix (faster heat up), and that's what the red BMS bypass eliminates. I was unaware of any DME control on the N54. The N55 does that, I think. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

But either way, I think the issue is not for daily drivers. It's for people that are pushing horsepower on the track and outrunning what the oil system is designed to support.

Filippo
 

Rob09msport

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I thought on the N54 it only had the valve for controlling if the factory oil cooler is in the mix (faster heat up), and that's what the red BMS bypass eliminates. I was unaware of any DME control on the N54. The N55 does that, I think. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

But either way, I think the issue is not for daily drivers. It's for people that are pushing horsepower on the track and outrunning what the oil system is designed to support.

Filippo
I agree except you are giving stock oil system to much credit lol, i think any tuned n54 could use better oil system even some stock but you are on the money with the fact that this is all a guess if this is one of those beneficial mods.
 

fmorelli

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I agree except you are giving stock oil system to much credit lol, i think any tuned n54 could use better oil system even some stock but you are on the money with the fact that this is all a guess if this is one of those beneficial mods.
I'm not sure if I'm giving the stock system too much credit or forgetting how many of you crazy driving bastards are on the street :tonguewink:

Filippo
 

matreyia

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Until it is tested in the N54 it is all intellectual postulation. That's just a fact. You can speculate with all the intelligence in the world, it's still speculation. The proof is in the pudding.

Filippo

Obviously you can try to test it with an official machine or you can use common sense and simply blow through the medium and see clearly that the paper filter is way more restrictive. I don't need a machine to see and feel one filter blocking my breath while the other filter is virtually not even there. Now the question of how much flow is a question answered by the special machines you are asking for. There is no question that the metal filter is way more free flowing than the paper filter when I blow through both.

Nevertheless, temperatures did not improve significantly at all at rush hour traffic in 94ºF ambient temps. Neither coolant, nor oil was markedly better than normal oil/filter/cap combination.
 
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Rob09msport

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Agree about better flow but air and liquid are different and also a pressured environment with surface tension factored in changes things, the difference may not be as great as it seems. Also more layers of paper may have worse initial flow but once starts getting dirty may have more surface area available so that it stays consistent throughout service life.