2:30 AM. Been working on the car for over 17 hours now. Just need to hook the coils up, plug in the rear wastegate solenoid and radiator fan, add fluids, and flash the new map. Startup should be ready by Sunday night.
Clark Performance Fab 135i
- Thread starter Steven@ClarkPerformanceFab
- Start date
Just uploaded the startup video to youtube
Here is the exhaust clip from the startup yesterday. I have some fuel stuff I’ll be working on later this week too.
Sounds great! I definitely knew the "I'm nervous" feeling when everything is primed, and you're ready to hit the start button for the first time. I felt accomplished just installing an ST kit someone else had done all the fabrication and leg work on. I can't imagine what it feels like knowing you have so much invested. Fitment looks to be damn near perfect on everything. I look forward to seeing this on the street!
Congrats! Went better than my first start, my car started pissing coolant all over the garage floor.
Sounded like maybe the fuel lines weren't primed? Cycling the ignition 5-6 times can help with that. And then the throttle reset needs a little time to adapt once keyed on otherwise the idle is out of control, I wonder if it was those things?
Sounded like maybe the fuel lines weren't primed? Cycling the ignition 5-6 times can help with that. And then the throttle reset needs a little time to adapt once keyed on otherwise the idle is out of control, I wonder if it was those things?
I did that on a twin install once. Forgot to bolt the upper front coolant hose to the block...
Its weird because I primed the oil and fuel before startup. I drilled the HP fuel rail too and just got my 6 micron filter and assembly in this week. I’m pulling the HPFP filter and installing the return line to the LPF rail and putting the in line filter in this weekend.
Damn 8 min first start vid lol
Congrats on getting it done dude.
@doublespaces i had one of the initial DR kits and they didn’t have a groove for the OEM gasket on the coolant pipe. After installing the kit I basically had to uninstall the entire thing to fix a leak from the aluminum coolant pipe on the block. Good times
Congrats on getting it done dude.
@doublespaces i had one of the initial DR kits and they didn’t have a groove for the OEM gasket on the coolant pipe. After installing the kit I basically had to uninstall the entire thing to fix a leak from the aluminum coolant pipe on the block. Good times
It always takes longer to get first start when a beer is in your hand. Congrats!
Filippo
Filippo
It helps when you remember to plug the throttle body and TMAP in lol.
I pulled the thermostat yesterday and I’m relocating it between the oil cooler and intercooler so that its easier to install and uninstall the radiator fan. Also used one of those CNC aluminum MAC solenoid brackets to mount it to one of the coolant tank holes along the passenger fender side. Working on routing the wastegate lines into their final position and I’ll fire sleeve everything around the manifold. Just knocking out a lot of little fitment issues now before I put the car back together for a test drive.
I didn’t post about it but I actually ran into a problem with the ACF water pipe and not having a pre-formed coolant hose to fit between the pipe and water pump. I ended up cutting a bent section off of my OEM water pipe and welding it onto the end of the ACF pipe and reused the OEM rubber elbow. Just an on the spot quick decision but it ended up working perfectly and was a permanent fix.
I pulled the thermostat yesterday and I’m relocating it between the oil cooler and intercooler so that its easier to install and uninstall the radiator fan. Also used one of those CNC aluminum MAC solenoid brackets to mount it to one of the coolant tank holes along the passenger fender side. Working on routing the wastegate lines into their final position and I’ll fire sleeve everything around the manifold. Just knocking out a lot of little fitment issues now before I put the car back together for a test drive.
Deleted the HPFP screen, drilled the HPF fuel rail to 11/64, and installed a 6 micron in line fuel filter today. This should help improve fuel flow a bit to the high pressure system since this filter is over 10x the surface area of that tiny screen. And now I have a final filtration before the LPF system feeds the secondary fuel rail. I’m working on fire sleeving the lines around the turbo and manifold right now too. And I mounted the MAC solenoid to one of the holes that the vacuum canisters used to bolt to using a $13 ebay CNC mounting bracket. I’m trying to have everything together by next weekend and hopefully start tuning. In the picture with the water pump and wastegate you can see how I modified the ACF water hose to be able to run the OEM rubber elbow.
I got the AN fittings I was missing today and some more fire sleeve. The car should be all done and ready to put together for tuning by this weekend. I might have to take some time to weld more differential brackets though too. Been taking a lot of time on the other projects instead of real shop work. I got the new logo done today though and have a batch of tee shirts on the way. Feeling official now.
These diys are a great incentive for more guys to build there on kits, excellent job!
I should really mess with my HPFP/filter situation, but have been putting it off. Nice progress as always.
Tuning is still depending on traction right now. I did road all last year at around 700 and it can get a bit sketchy. And also depends on how the JB4 with backend works out or if I should switch to MHD only with a boostbox.
Would love to do a real pro tune, in person on a loaded dyno. Enough with the 4th gear pulls and the months long tuning process.
Haven’t been making posts a lot while I’ve been catching up on bracket fabrication and building the website. But I put some work in today and finished firesleeving my AN lines on the turbo side, reinstated the subframe, and got the chargepipe and intercooler back on. Just need to get the catch cans and thermostat on and the car will be ready to start up again. I was having issues with the BOV hitting the coolant reservoir with the 3” chinese CP so I frankensteined it to relocate the BOV in the open space closer to the TB and I removed the OEM CP brace at the bottom of the alternator and moved the CP more inboard away from the reservoir. Just about ready to start tuning now.
