What is everyone doing to relocate the brake booster line? Are you just using softlines or is there an aftermarket hose for this job? I installed a boost box and have removed the factory intake so I have no need for that line or the vacuum barbs.
Brake booster line relocation
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screaminfast
Sergeant
I cut the plastic line off the connector right at the pump, ran a new line under the mani and secured with pinch clamps.
Make sure whatever hose you use it it will stand up to vacuum.
The Aeromotive -6 (3/8") is rated to 28 in.-Hg (if you have that much vacuum, you've got other issues).
PS. IF you damage the 90* fitting going into the HPFP, I have extras. I had to buy a 10 pack.
The Aeromotive -6 (3/8") is rated to 28 in.-Hg (if you have that much vacuum, you've got other issues).
PS. IF you damage the 90* fitting going into the HPFP, I have extras. I had to buy a 10 pack.
How does that stand up to the Vibrant 20425(Which I have purchased)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BT1B8AU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And yes, thank you, I'll let you know if I break it.
Vibrant is a well known company & their site says it's rated for vacuum so you should be fine. Its actually reasonably priced. Main reason I went Aero was because I needed it for fueling, was already buying & the spec was good.
Here's what i did when I installed my sharps intake manifold. A good trick to get the stock line off the fittings without cutting it is to heat it with a lighter or butane torch for a couple seconds and you'll be able to pull it right out.
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I used 3/8th inch I/D fuel hose and reattached all the T fittings and connectors. Took about an hour. Its routed under the CP. The easiest way I found to remove the connectors was to run razor blade down each connector and pull the hose off.
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It was just some vacuum line i had laying around at work, i think it's 3/8" but dont hold me to that. I would take the fitting off and take it to a hardware store for size reference.
I used reinforced heater hose. This one, specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUVVAPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are 3 vacuum nipples on the hard line, 2 were from the oem diverter valves which were looped after removal. The third is from the exhaust flapper, which I have no use for. Consider them all deleted. I cut the plastic piece off of both ends and hose clamped it. No issues with braking power under high speeds (or any speed for that matter).
There are 3 vacuum nipples on the hard line, 2 were from the oem diverter valves which were looped after removal. The third is from the exhaust flapper, which I have no use for. Consider them all deleted. I cut the plastic piece off of both ends and hose clamped it. No issues with braking power under high speeds (or any speed for that matter).
While you're there... I highly recommend tapping the intake manifold for a NPT fitting to match the BOV, if you haven't already, to reduce flutter. Then, use a vacuum cap on the fuel tank vent and T- off the fuel tank vent line with the new intake manifold line. You're going to want a vacuum block if you don't already have one, bring everything into that. You end up with a very clean engine bay, specially if you are going with braided vacuum lines.
More pics... You might be asking, what's all that stuff in the vacuum block? The fuel tank vent relocation could have been done better, but I was in a rush.
Single turbo essentials...
Single turbo essentials...
- 10psi hobbs switch with automotive connector (AIC PI)
- 5bar AEM Map sensor (ADE 5bar map harness to 3.5bar tmap), ECU scaled to match
- Boost reference for intake manifold (and fuel tank vent)
- Boost reference for BOV
- Boost reference for external FPR
- AEM boost gauge sensor, gauge is steering wheel mounted (ati epod)
Ah yes. Well, that'll remove most of the need for a vacuum block, since you can just use those barbs. The fuel tank vent is a weak link, and that brake boost line is a weak link. If you want my leftover vacuum cap, heater hose and hose clamps... I think it's all just laying in my garage. You're welcome to it if you're ever in Scottsdale/Avondale.
I'm not even sure which line that is exactly, connects to the throttle body or something right? When I get under there I'll check it out. I have an RB pcv kit that uses a barb instead of the normal position so I'm not sure what goes where yet as i haven't investigated it. Once my subframe is back in ill start messing with the other engine stuff, don't trust this engine brace.
