Brake booster line relocation

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
9,052
4,158
0
AZ
Ride
2009 E93 335i
What is everyone doing to relocate the brake booster line? Are you just using softlines or is there an aftermarket hose for this job? I installed a boost box and have removed the factory intake so I have no need for that line or the vacuum barbs.
 

camberadam

Sergeant
Feb 15, 2017
257
106
0
Baltimore
Ride
Tasmin Green e92
Make sure whatever hose you use it it will stand up to vacuum.

The Aeromotive -6 (3/8") is rated to 28 in.-Hg (if you have that much vacuum, you've got other issues).

PS. IF you damage the 90* fitting going into the HPFP, I have extras. I had to buy a 10 pack.
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
9,052
4,158
0
AZ
Ride
2009 E93 335i
Make sure whatever hose you use it it will stand up to vacuum.

The Aeromotive -6 (3/8") is rated to 28 in.-Hg (if you have that much vacuum, you've got other issues).

PS. IF you damage the 90* fitting going into the HPFP, I have extras. I had to buy a 10 pack.

How does that stand up to the Vibrant 20425(Which I have purchased)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BT1B8AU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And yes, thank you, I'll let you know if I break it.
 

camberadam

Sergeant
Feb 15, 2017
257
106
0
Baltimore
Ride
Tasmin Green e92
Vibrant is a well known company & their site says it's rated for vacuum so you should be fine. Its actually reasonably priced. Main reason I went Aero was because I needed it for fueling, was already buying & the spec was good.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: doublespaces

Sshec152

Corporal
Nov 3, 2016
213
118
0
Aston pa
Here's what i did when I installed my sharps intake manifold. A good trick to get the stock line off the fittings without cutting it is to heat it with a lighter or butane torch for a couple seconds and you'll be able to pull it right out.
IMG_3673.JPG
IMG_3674.JPG
IMG_3675.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:

SONO_N54

New Member
Dec 2, 2016
7
2
0
Chesapeake, VA
I used 3/8th inch I/D fuel hose and reattached all the T fittings and connectors. Took about an hour. Its routed under the CP. The easiest way I found to remove the connectors was to run razor blade down each connector and pull the hose off.

2017-04-13_8-17-40.png
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Joe

Specialist
Nov 1, 2016
58
62
0
Arizona
I used reinforced heater hose. This one, specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUVVAPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are 3 vacuum nipples on the hard line, 2 were from the oem diverter valves which were looped after removal. The third is from the exhaust flapper, which I have no use for. Consider them all deleted. I cut the plastic piece off of both ends and hose clamped it. No issues with braking power under high speeds (or any speed for that matter).
 
  • Like
Reactions: doublespaces

Joe

Specialist
Nov 1, 2016
58
62
0
Arizona
While you're there... I highly recommend tapping the intake manifold for a NPT fitting to match the BOV, if you haven't already, to reduce flutter. Then, use a vacuum cap on the fuel tank vent and T- off the fuel tank vent line with the new intake manifold line. You're going to want a vacuum block if you don't already have one, bring everything into that. You end up with a very clean engine bay, specially if you are going with braided vacuum lines.
 

Joe

Specialist
Nov 1, 2016
58
62
0
Arizona
More pics... You might be asking, what's all that stuff in the vacuum block? The fuel tank vent relocation could have been done better, but I was in a rush.

Single turbo essentials...
  • 10psi hobbs switch with automotive connector (AIC PI)
  • 5bar AEM Map sensor (ADE 5bar map harness to 3.5bar tmap), ECU scaled to match
  • Boost reference for intake manifold (and fuel tank vent)
  • Boost reference for BOV
  • Boost reference for external FPR
  • AEM boost gauge sensor, gauge is steering wheel mounted (ati epod)
IMG_20170322_150418.jpg
IMG_20170318_103618.jpg
 

Joe

Specialist
Nov 1, 2016
58
62
0
Arizona
I've got the EOS manifold so I have five barbs from 1/8 to 1/4

Ah yes. Well, that'll remove most of the need for a vacuum block, since you can just use those barbs. The fuel tank vent is a weak link, and that brake boost line is a weak link. If you want my leftover vacuum cap, heater hose and hose clamps... I think it's all just laying in my garage. You're welcome to it if you're ever in Scottsdale/Avondale.
 
  • Like
Reactions: doublespaces

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
9,052
4,158
0
AZ
Ride
2009 E93 335i
Ah yes. Well, that'll remove most of the need for a vacuum block, since you can just use those barbs. The fuel tank vent is a weak link, and that brake boost line is a weak link. If you want my leftover vacuum cap, heater hose and hose clamps... I think it's all just laying in my garage. You're welcome to it if you're ever in Scottsdale/Avondale.
I'm not even sure which line that is exactly, connects to the throttle body or something right? When I get under there I'll check it out. I have an RB pcv kit that uses a barb instead of the normal position so I'm not sure what goes where yet as i haven't investigated it. Once my subframe is back in ill start messing with the other engine stuff, don't trust this engine brace.