What if we had a coolant temp gauge and not an oil temp gauge? (A call for more coolant cooling!)

Jeffman

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Thanks for the good info, feedback and lessons-learned, @Davidwarren and @Bnks334. I should edit my original post with the correct temp info you, as well as @V8bait, posted.
@Davidwarren - Are you 6MT or AT? (I would guess 6MT, but just confirming for the record).
Thanks again. This is all good and useful info to have in this thread.
 
Oct 24, 2016
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I'd write up a DIY, but people don't seem to like to see cheap stuff like this... All I did was cut the shop vac hose in half and trim the attachments down to fit my bumper. I then used large snips to cut out a hole in the heat shield for the hose to sit. I could have taken the heat shield off and made cut-out seamless, but I didn't feel like it was worth the extra effort. I just cut my heat shield right down the middle and then snipped out the 2.5" hole. Took all of about 15minutes lol

Not a bad idea at all and it wouldn't be hard to make it look prettier. I say post your ideas like that, you'll get some haters, but who cares. It's pretty easy to not do it to your own car if you don't like it. ;)

Chris
 

doublespaces

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Not a bad idea at all and it wouldn't be hard to make it look prettier. I say post your ideas like that, you'll get some haters, but who cares. It's pretty easy to not do it to your own car if you don't like it. ;)

Chris

I agree, if they don't like it they can spend the money. I'd like to see what you did @Bnks334
 

Jeffman

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+1
And a big plus on using a ShopVac hose. That color (black) is much better than that orange.
 
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Bnks334

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I agree, if they don't like it they can spend the money. I'd like to see what you did @Bnks334

Maybe I'll post something up this fall when I take my track pads out for winter. The steps are basically what I said above and can be seen in the pics. The hose has held up shockingly well all through last winter and this season of HPDE/Autocross. The hose has not melted and zip tying it to the control arms has kept it in place. I agree it could be cleaned up quiet a bit, but you can't really see anything anyway. No-one even notices them and you cant see the heat shields unless the wheels are off.

You could spend a bit more time to a) trim the shop vac accessory for a better fit to the bumper, b) you could remove the heat shields for a cleaner cut, and c) you could add the 2 1/2" aluminum flanges to rivet the hose to the heat shield for a more permanent fixation. I personally didn't feel like wasting the time, effort, and money.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/af/af75c4d8-5888-4a1f-b2f2-db25f62ba277_1000.jpg
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/bb/bb825307-6e72-4d74-bea4-75d152c0e195_1000.jpg
 
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Jeffman

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Great info and build threads for your oil and brake coolers. Very innovative to use the top connections of the OFH. This looks to be a clear winner!
But for us AT shmos (full disclosure: I got the AT in 2008 so my wife could drive the car. She drove it once or twice the first month we got it and never again...) I'd like to replace the stock oil cooler with a 625 Setrab and use the left (driver's) wheel well / fog light area for an ATF cooler+180F thermostat. Of course I'd upgrade the stock radiator with CSF aluminum and use distilled water/WW for summertime cooling.
 

JBarros

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So why is it that everyone is set on keeping the stock location of the oil cooler? why not move it to the front in front of the rad and please don't say preloading the rad with heat because the oil cooler is tiny and that fan ours does do a good job and once moving 50-80 mph I don't think it'll matter much. BNKS334 i like what you did good job
 
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Jeffman

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Below is the Torque Reduction Factor (Temp) table from my bin, which I believe includes the stock values. Oil temps (F) along the x-axis; Coolant temps (F) along the y-axis.

IMG_2519.JPG


Personally I've never seen oil temps over 250*F with the BMS oil diverter plug and the stock oil cooler - there's a lot more room in oil temp increase (+50*F) to go before Torque gets pulled by the DME. But I've easily seen 225*F with the stock radiator + 50/50 water/Ethylene glycol after ten minutes of spirited driving in 85*F ambient. - another 10 minutes and I'm sure I would have hit 245*F coolant temp and the DME would start limiting Torque / power (especially with my 6AT - less of a problem I suspect with 6MT). This is my reasoning why better coolant and/or transmission cooling may actually be more important in 6AT cars than 6MT cars.
 

JBarros

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Below is the Torque Reduction Factor (Temp) table from my bin, which I believe includes the stock values. Oil temps (F) along the x-axis; Coolant temps (F) along the y-axis.

View attachment 5444

Personally I've never seen oil temps over 250*F with the BMS oil diverter plug and the stock oil cooler - there's a lot more room in oil temp increase (+50*F) to go before Torque gets pulled by the DME. But I've easily seen 225*F with the stock radiator + 50/50 water/Ethylene glycol after ten minutes of spirited driving in 85*F ambient. - another 10 minutes and I'm sure I would have hit 245*F coolant temp and the DME would start limiting Torque / power (especially with my 6AT - less of a problem I suspect with 6MT). This is my reasoning why better coolant and/or transmission cooling may actually be more important in 6AT cars than 6MT cars.
Isn't there a setting with MHD to target lower coolant temps and have the water-pump running at higher percentage or something like that? Sorry I don't have MHD just yet but I remember from a post that you might be able to do this.
 
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Jeffman

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Isn't there a setting with MHD to target lower coolant temps and have the water-pump running at higher percentage or something like that? Sorry I don't have MHD just yet but I remember from a post that you might be able to do this.
Yes you are correct. The fan and the coolant pump will run harder depending on the settings. You can also adjust them in TunerPro. But I suspect these operating parameters will only help a little. Anyone who tracks their car or drives in a spirited fashion for more than 20 minutes will probably need some additional cooling hardware.
 

JBarros

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Yes you are correct. The fan and the coolant pump will run harder depending on the settings. You can also adjust them in TunerPro. But I suspect these operating parameters will only help a little. Anyone who tracks their car or drives in a spirited fashion for more than 20 minutes will probably need some additional cooling hardware.
Maybe this option along with a csf rad? Can't really do much else with the room that we have. Not sure if a new rad with mor fin density can be made or something. N55 guys have good results with csf and the mhd option but I don't they create as much heat?
 

Jeffman

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A CSF radiator is definitely in my future. And I think my best setup will be to keep the stock oil cooler per my comments above and to hook up a great quality in-line auxiliary ATF cooler in the front wheel well on the driver's left side.