Starting a single turbo 335i build. Advices and ideas are welcome.

odesh

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Mar 6, 2023
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Hi,​


And hello to everyone on Spoolstreet. My beloved 335i n54 has come to the point of 100k miles and it's time to move on from twins. I'm planning to move to Doc Races bottom mount single turbo kit with 6266 gen 1. I try split my typing into segments, so I can explain everything I will do as well as I can and can bring up questions that I still need answers for. My only experience with single turbo engines has been on 1998 Volvo s40 T4 @420hp, so n54 platform is kinda new thing for me. EVERY single advice is welcome.

I will also follow the used amount of money on the project. If someone else from Europe wants to do a similar build, they can have an idea of the amount of money needed.

Setup at the moment:
- 335i E90 2007
- Downpipes
- Stock turbos
- Cone intakes
- 5.5" stepped intercooler
- MHD stage 2+

I have come up with a plan that I try to follow so I can collect all the parts and make sure everything will work when I actually start changing the parts. This way I can avoid waiting and delays on my project. I also happen to live on are where getting parts isn't fast at all.

Planned setup:
- DOC Race DR700 with 6266 gen 1
- Stage 2+ or stage 3 LPFP
- Reusing the 5.5" intercooler. Should be enough flow and cooling since I live in Finland where weather is always chilly. ($500)
- Upgraded charge pipe with 50mm tial BOV
- Controlling everything with MHD

The plan:

My plan is to upgrade every single needed support mod for the vehicle to be ready for the single turbo kit. I will also do the maintenance to make sure everything is ready for the big power. Already ordered charge pipe and BOV ($600 with shipping and tax) and I'm looking into buying the LPFP ($600 with shipping and tax). I will install those mods and make sure they work before moving on the bigger mods.

I will be using the DR700 kit because I want the factory look and Finnish vehicle inspection can be really strict. I'm probably going with the 6266 gen 1 because I believe it's a good value for the money and the amount of air it can move is good for my power range (Correct me if I'm wrong). I'm also going with recycled dump. This kit will run me for $3500, but the cost to ship the whole package to Finland is not going to be cheap. $400 for shipping and around $600 for import taxes. Keep this in mind if you are ordering these parts to Europe. ATM I'm looking into other options for shipping. There are smaller companies that will bring your parts to Europe via ship container and will cost a lot less, but will take a lot more time.

I would like to control everything using MHD. Since they released the multi map support and boost solenoid control for single turbo setups. I believe controlling the boost with MAC solenoid ($100 with shipping and tax) should work by doing this mod on ECU (video):
Boost control with MHD

I haven't decided if I will go with local tuner or use for US tuner, for example Motiv. Also I haven't decided if I will run e85 or 98oct or mixture.

The questions:

Like on every single new project, there are questions. Here are couple of them.

Can the job be done without dropping the subframe? Doc race kit says so but I'm little sceptical about that. I have a tiny little plan how I could do the whole job from the above without dropping the frame, but we will see.

How is the stock ignition system? Can the stock ignition coils handle these mods fine. I just changed a fresh set of original ones and I would like to use them. Also, what spark plugs should I run?

Should I just control everything with MHD? I have seen people using external boost controllers to run different amount of boost and I was hoping to do this with MHD multi map function. Is this the best way to go or should I consider something else?

Conclusion:

Did I forget about something important? Is there a better way to do this? Tell me your wisdom.

Thank you in advance for every advice I will get.
 
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Torgus

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Mita Kuuluu!

1) DR has had an issue with their manifolds cracking. I was told DR has their n54 manifolds made in China now. Given the massive fucking PITA it is to remove an exhaust manifold and the pain of shipping it, getting it fixed, install another that may crack etc. I would go with something more proven to be reliable. If you want a bottom mount I would go with speedtech. Their cast manifold will be more reliable, I never heard about issues with their kits online. Cost and performance is basically the same. Maybe DR fixed their cracking manifold issues? I know a local guy who had it happen to him in the last 3 months and if you go on facebook n54 groups people mention it often. Just words of warning.

2) You really want a 'stage 3' LPFP at a minimum. Throw a 535 in the bucket & do some EKP cooling mods while in there is my vote.

3) The 5.5 is ok, not great, but as you said Finland is not known for being very warm except in a SOWna. When you do logs after everything is warmed up(and in the summer) do a 1-4 gear at WOT and watch your AITs. If they are good then the 5.5 is enough. A single gear pull is not enough to show what really happens on the road. You need to see what the AITs look like through multiple gear pulls at WOT.

4) You want a custom tune through MHD. You want to find a tuner ahead of time. MHD + a mac works great imo.

5) If you have the ability to run E85 DO IT. The difference in performance and safety with E85 is huge. You will run out of injector and fuel pump at some point and eventually have to add PI or overspin your HPFP. I would start with a 93 tune and if you want more power then add PI plate and a motiv reflex as an example.

6) I would drop the subframe during the install. Once you are in there it is not bad and relatively quick. Also a good time to put in new motor mounts. You can also do you oil pan gasket while in there if you want, they are known to go bad after 100k miles. Your going to do an oil change anyways I am sure of. Also, if maintenance is your thing you might considering doing your water pump while in there. They also are known to go above 100k miles and a PITA. Much easier to do when you have the front clip off and subframe dropped. I like taking the front bumper off because it is quick and easy to do and you need to get at your IC etc.

7) If your coils are in good shape you should be ok. You can always upgrade them if they are not. I would keep what you have and if they are not up to snuff then upgrade them at that time. For spark plugs I think most would recommend: the NGK 97967 formally the 95770. You could run the 97506 which is 2 step colder but if you are not running E85 they are not needed and the 97967 would be a better fit.

8) Are you an automatic? if so you might want to consider xHP tranny tunah. If manual you need a clutch upgrade.

9) You may want to consider the BMS 335D charge pipe and the 335D coolant tank as you have to buy a Tial ready CP anyways and you will be moving your coolant tank....and the 335D coolant tank is inexpensive: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/coolant-expansion-tank/17138570079~bav/ $60 the 335D coolant tank fits a bit better.

10) I recommend taking your time with the install. Don't rush it. Make sure you TQ down correctly all the manifold nuts. Double check everything before putting it all back together. Hairspray the IC connections and others and use good quality clamps(not T bolts).

11) You will want to wrap your downpipe in header wrap. The manifold I would have ceramic coated or you can do it yourself.

12) Make sure your oil input and drain are facing as vertical as possible. Fire sleeve oil drain line if you want.

13) Make sure your waste gate lines are not going to touch any thing and get burned. Fire sleeves or whatever you want to call them are cheap.

Any questions let me know.


Näkemiin
 
Last edited:

odesh

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Mar 6, 2023
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Mita Kuuluu!

1) DR has had an issue with their manifolds cracking. I was told DR has their n54 manifolds made in China now. Given the massive fucking PITA it is to remove an exhaust manifold and the pain of shipping it, getting it fixed, install another that may crack etc. I would go with something more proven to be reliable. If you want a bottom mount I would go with speedtech. Their cast manifold will be more reliable, I never heard about issues with their kits online. Cost and performance is basically the same. Maybe DR fixed their cracking manifold issues? I know a local guy who had it happen to him in the last 3 months and if you go on facebook n54 groups people mention it often. Just words of warning.

2) You really want a 'stage 3' LPFP at a minimum. Throw a 535 in the bucket & do some EKP cooling mods while in there is my vote.

3) The 5.5 is ok, not great, but as you said Finland is not known for being very warm except in a SOWna. When you do logs after everything is warmed up(and in the summer) do a 1-4 gear at WOT and watch your AITs. If they are good then the 5.5 is enough. A single gear pull is not enough to show what really happens on the road. You need to see what the AITs look like through multiple gear pulls at WOT.

4) You want a custom tune through MHD. You want to find a tuner ahead of time. MHD + a mac works great imo.

5) If you have the ability to run E85 DO IT. The difference in performance and safety with E85 is huge. You will run out of injector and fuel pump at some point and eventually have to add PI or overspin your HPFP. I would start with a 93 tune and if you want more power then add PI plate and a motiv reflex as an example.

6) I would drop the subframe during the install. Once you are in there it is not bad and relatively quick. Also a good time to put in new motor mounts. You can also do you oil pan gasket while in there if you want, they are known to go bad after 100k miles. Your going to do an oil change anyways I am sure of. Also, if maintenance is your thing you might considering doing your water pump while in there. They also are known to go above 100k miles and a PITA. Much easier to do when you have the front clip off and subframe dropped. I like taking the front bumper off because it is quick and easy to do and you need to get at your IC etc.

7) If your coils are in good shape you should be ok. You can always upgrade them if they are not. I would keep what you have and if they are not up to snuff then upgrade them at that time. For spark plugs I think most would recommend: the NGK 97967 formally the 95770. You could run the 97506 which is 2 step colder but if you are not running E85 they are not needed and the 97967 would be a better fit.

8) Are you an automatic? if so you might want to consider xHP tranny tunah. If manual you need a clutch upgrade.

9) You may want to consider the BMS 335D charge pipe and the 335D coolant tank as you have to buy a Tial ready CP anyways and you will be moving your coolant tank....and the 335D coolant tank is inexpensive: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/coolant-expansion-tank/17138570079~bav/ $60 the 335D coolant tank fits a bit better.

10) I recommend taking your time with the install. Don't rush it. Make sure you TQ down correctly all the manifold nuts. Double check everything before putting it all back together. Hairspray the IC connections and others and use good quality clamps(not T bolts).

11) You will want to wrap your downpipe in header wrap. The manifold I would have ceramic coated or you can do it yourself.

12) Make sure your oil input and drain are facing as vertical as possible. Fire sleeve oil drain line if you want.

13) Make sure your waste gate lines are not going to touch any thing and get burned. Fire sleeves or whatever you want to call them are cheap.

Any questions let me know.


Näkemiin
Hi.

Thank you for the tips. I will look into speedtech ones too.

And ofcourse when I mentioned the taking care of other support mods I ran into an issue. Car jerks on around 3-4k on acceleration and I'm getting longer starts than before. Seems like HPFP or crank sensor issue... Ofc when I need money for other mods. Well gotta fix that before I continue with anything else.
 
Last edited:

wheela

Captain
Jun 4, 2021
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0
Twin Cities, MN
Ride
2015 e84 X1 35i Msport
Mita Kuuluu!

1) DR has had an issue with their manifolds cracking. I was told DR has their n54 manifolds made in China now. Given the massive fucking PITA it is to remove an exhaust manifold and the pain of shipping it, getting it fixed, install another that may crack etc. I would go with something more proven to be reliable. If you want a bottom mount I would go with speedtech. Their cast manifold will be more reliable, I never heard about issues with their kits online. Cost and performance is basically the same. Maybe DR fixed their cracking manifold issues? I know a local guy who had it happen to him in the last 3 months and if you go on facebook n54 groups people mention it often. Just words of warning.

2) You really want a 'stage 3' LPFP at a minimum. Throw a 535 in the bucket & do some EKP cooling mods while in there is my vote.

3) The 5.5 is ok, not great, but as you said Finland is not known for being very warm except in a SOWna. When you do logs after everything is warmed up(and in the summer) do a 1-4 gear at WOT and watch your AITs. If they are good then the 5.5 is enough. A single gear pull is not enough to show what really happens on the road. You need to see what the AITs look like through multiple gear pulls at WOT.

4) You want a custom tune through MHD. You want to find a tuner ahead of time. MHD + a mac works great imo.

5) If you have the ability to run E85 DO IT. The difference in performance and safety with E85 is huge. You will run out of injector and fuel pump at some point and eventually have to add PI or overspin your HPFP. I would start with a 93 tune and if you want more power then add PI plate and a motiv reflex as an example.

6) I would drop the subframe during the install. Once you are in there it is not bad and relatively quick. Also a good time to put in new motor mounts. You can also do you oil pan gasket while in there if you want, they are known to go bad after 100k miles. Your going to do an oil change anyways I am sure of. Also, if maintenance is your thing you might considering doing your water pump while in there. They also are known to go above 100k miles and a PITA. Much easier to do when you have the front clip off and subframe dropped. I like taking the front bumper off because it is quick and easy to do and you need to get at your IC etc.

7) If your coils are in good shape you should be ok. You can always upgrade them if they are not. I would keep what you have and if they are not up to snuff then upgrade them at that time. For spark plugs I think most would recommend: the NGK 97967 formally the 95770. You could run the 97506 which is 2 step colder but if you are not running E85 they are not needed and the 97967 would be a better fit.

8) Are you an automatic? if so you might want to consider xHP tranny tunah. If manual you need a clutch upgrade.

9) You may want to consider the BMS 335D charge pipe and the 335D coolant tank as you have to buy a Tial ready CP anyways and you will be moving your coolant tank....and the 335D coolant tank is inexpensive: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/coolant-expansion-tank/17138570079~bav/ $60 the 335D coolant tank fits a bit better.

10) I recommend taking your time with the install. Don't rush it. Make sure you TQ down correctly all the manifold nuts. Double check everything before putting it all back together. Hairspray the IC connections and others and use good quality clamps(not T bolts).

11) You will want to wrap your downpipe in header wrap. The manifold I would have ceramic coated or you can do it yourself.

12) Make sure your oil input and drain are facing as vertical as possible. Fire sleeve oil drain line if you want.

13) Make sure your waste gate lines are not going to touch any thing and get burned. Fire sleeves or whatever you want to call them are cheap.

Any questions let me know.


Näkemiin
Are the doc race cracks you've heard of on their cast manifold kit?
 

Torgus

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Are the doc race cracks you've heard of on their cast manifold kit?

I honestly can not say. If you google dr700 crack manifold or youtube there are plenty of examples. Look at the n54 Facebook groups and the replies about cracked DR manifolds. I just do not see the risk vs again speedtech which no one complains about issues on their kits and similar price.

I have no dog in this race.

I just want to educate what the know failures are.

Also, if this guy is Finnish, I have my own personal reasons to want to make sure his ST goes well. I am surrounded by Finns, and they are my best friends.
 
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odesh

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I honestly can not say. If you google dr700 crack manifold or youtube there are plenty of examples. Look at the n54 Facebook groups and the replies about cracked DR manifolds. I just do not see the risk vs again speedtech which no one complains about issues on their kits and similar price.

I have no dog in this race.

I just want to educate what the know failures are.

Also, if this guy is Finnish, I have my own personal reasons to want to make sure his ST goes well. I am surrounded by Finns, and they are my best friends.
I tried to look into it too. Can't really find info about their casted ones. I'm more worried about the o2-sensor burning problem with doc race kit. Also, speedtech has a real t4 flange. Ofc it's a little more expensive and doesn't come with like exhaust gaskets and other stuff, but those can be bought cheaply and locally. Also, I found that united-euro has more options for turbos with speedtech kit. Like more of borgs options. I need to look into it.

My plan at the moment is to fix the HPFP and upgrade the LPFP first. Then I will do the flex fuel kit with motiv parts. After that I will move on with the actual build.
 
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jzx_andy

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I tried to look into it too. Can't really find info about their casted ones. I'm more worried about the o2-sensor burning problem with doc race kit. Also, speedtech has a real t4 flange. Ofc it's a little more expensive and doesn't come with like exhaust gaskets and other stuff, but those can be bought cheaply and locally. Also, I found that united-euro has more options for turbos with speedtech kit. Like more of borgs options. I need to look into it.

My plan at the moment is to fix the HPFP and upgrade the LPFP first. Then I will do the flex fuel kit with motiv parts. After that I will move on with the actual build.

Unfortunately a lot of these failures are difficult to find with a quick Google, since the accounts are usually found in private Facebook posts and other social media accounts that Google doesn't trawl. I can corroborate what Torgus said, as there were at least several posts/videos that I came across shortly after the kit was made available to order, with people experiencing cracked manifolds. If you look up Vehicle Virals on Youtube, he experienced it about 12-18 months ago with his blue e90. I would say that is the most notorious case that is not too difficult to dig up.

That said, it seems Docrace did the right thing by taking returns of cracked DR700 manifolds, revising the design/manufacturing, replacing failed kits and only selling revised kits from then on. From what I know, manifolds made in mid-2022 and later are all perfectly fine.

I would recommend Speedtech over DR700, like Torgus has mentioned. Zero known issues with that kit and plenty enough people running them (and for long enough) so you can purchase with more confidence than the other option with a somewhat flaky history.
 
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odesh

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Unfortunately a lot of these failures are difficult to find with a quick Google, since the accounts are usually found in private Facebook posts and other social media accounts that Google doesn't trawl. I can corroborate what Torgus said, as there were at least several posts/videos that I came across shortly after the kit was made available to order, with people experiencing cracked manifolds. If you look up Vehicle Virals on Youtube, he experienced it about 12-18 months ago with his blue e90. I would say that is the most notorious case that is not too difficult to dig up.

That said, it seems Docrace did the right thing by taking returns of cracked DR700 manifolds, revising the design/manufacturing, replacing failed kits and only selling revised kits from then on. From what I know, manifolds made in mid-2022 and later are all perfectly fine.

I would recommend Speedtech over DR700, like Torgus has mentioned. Zero known issues with that kit and plenty enough people running them (and for long enough) so you can purchase with more confidence than the other option with a somewhat flaky history.
Thank you for your view in this matter.

I just messaged Speedtech and asked about their pricing of posting to Finland, since their site doesn't have way to see it automatically. I'm trying to figure out if it's cheaper to only buy raw kit, without turbo and wastegate locally or buy the whole kit from them.

Leaving the turbo and wastegate out would make the package a lot lighter and I'm expecting this to make 100-200 dollar difference in the shipping costs. Also, getting turbo and wastegate locally makes warranty replacement (I hope I don't need it) a lot easier than sending them back to the Speedtech.

So basically I have two options:
Everything from Speedtech or piping from them and other stuff locally.

I did little math and here are the results (leaving out the shipping from Speedtech parts since I have no idea how much would it be). I use Borgs S257 SX-E as an example on this since it kinda fits my power target. Also using Tial MVR since the speedtech is using it on their kit. I will also show the final pricing in Euro since it's easier with import tax calculator and Euro and dollar are kinda similar atm. Sorry if it's confusing.

1st option. All from speedtech:​

- The full kit with recirculation ($3900)
- Import tax of 24% (898,41€)
- Custom costs of 2,7% (98,41€)

Final pricing of 4641,66€ or $4982,06

2nd option. Only piping from speedtech. Turbo and wastegate locally:​

- Piping from speedtech with recirculation ($2600)
- Import tax of 24% (598,92€)
- Custom costs of 2,7% (65,61€)
- S257 SX-E twinscroll locally (1050€) (this is with fast google search, I'm pretty sure I can get it cheaper from Germany or going asking around for offers)
- Tial MVR (~400€)

Final pricing of 4544,44€ or $4878,37

As you can see the price difference even without shipping is already 100€ cheaper and I would have local warranty what is a huge plus. Best case I would save 100-200€ with shipping too. 200-300€ better price and better warranty option for me.
 
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wheela

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Follow up with Jeff to confirm, but I think warranty issues with turbos purchased from him, you'd work directly with the turbo manufacturer on getting it rectified - I think he just handles warranty issues with the kits (parts he makes).
 
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odesh

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Follow up with Jeff to confirm, but I think warranty issues with turbos purchased from him, you'd work directly with the turbo manufacturer on getting it rectified - I think he just handles warranty issues with the kits (parts he makes).
Oh okay, makes sense tbh. Would still prefer the local shop, since both Borgwarner and Precision are both based in US. European warranty system is just way ahead of US, so I can work with the local shop that sold me the turbo. Luckily I have a lot of time to think since I'm just starting to collect all the parts. I will probably go with Borg since I'm more familiar with their turbos.
 

odesh

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Well I talked with Speedtech and local turbo seller. We came to conclusion that it's cheaper to buy the hose only kit from Speedtech and they gave me an idea of using a forwarding service that would save me a little more when thinking of shipping. Thanks for Jeff from Speedtech for this information. And like I said, I spoke with couple local turbo sellers and on my budget the Borgwarner S257SX-E 57mm (300-650hp) or S362SX-E 61mm (400-775hp).

Here is the pics of the options for the different A/R for both turbos:
1678954429155.png

1678954469755.png


As you can see the price is the same excluding the A/R 0.83 on S257. What do you think would be the best option for street usage when I want to just use car normally when driving around with like 500whp but can still push the car to 600whp, but most of the time I would like to stay on safe side of 500whp. Obviously S257 is better when thinking of lag, but I don't think S362 would be that much slower on spooling. I kinda leaning towards S362 A/R 0.91 or S257 A/R 1.15/1.22 since of the its size and twin scroll. Also if it's not as rod bending I guess. Let me know what you think. Any experience with these turbos?

Also 6266 and 6262 is not out of the picture. It fits on the same price and power category.
 
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wheela

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One of the things I love about Borg Warner is their matchbot program. I'd plug those options into matchbot and see where you end up on the compressor map, and for pre-turbine back pressure and engine delta P. It's a little cumbersome entering all the information but I think it's worth it. I'm guessing the s362 will be a better match, but running the option through matchbot should take away a lot of the guesswork.
 
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odesh

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One of the things I love about Borg Warner is their matchbot program. I'd plug those options into matchbot and see where you end up on the compressor map, and for pre-turbine back pressure and engine delta P. It's a little cumbersome entering all the information but I think it's worth it. I'm guessing the s362 will be a better match, but running the option through matchbot should take away a lot of the guesswork.
Okay thank you. I will look into those.
 

odesh

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Well here we go again.

My friend planted a crazy seed and idea. He is familiar with older BMW 6 cylinder engines and came up with an idea of using Pulsar turbos. He has had good success with those turbos before and I could get a really good price on one since his friend owns a shop that imports them here. He also said that he could get 2 year warranty for me if I'm hesitate about going with one. Turbos I'm talking about are 5855G, 6255G and 6262G. They seem to be full out copies of Garrett G30-770, G30-900 and G35-900. Dual ball bearing turbo for same price (even cheaper because of the discount I can get) as Borgs. They seem to have really good spool up time and 6000-series support the big power as well.

So the plan would be to buy one of those turbos and pair it with Speedtechs Garrett kit. I need to look into it, so I can be sure that they are 100% same from fitting stand point. If they spool 100-200rpm slower than real Garrett, that's not an issue. I just want the fit to be good, so I don't need to wrestle with it when installing the kit. The kits price is little higher since Garrett/Pulsar has water cooling, but it would end up as expensive as borg one, after the price compensation.
 

jzx_andy

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Pulsars are fine and they have the same warranty period as Garrett. Very very similar turbos to the real deal when it comes to power delivery and overall flow. Good choice for the money. I think water cooling is nice to have since we have an electric waterpump that keeps running even after the motor is shut down.
 
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odesh

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Finally I had/managed to replace my HPFP. No more HPFP error codes and I haven't seen a single super knock code since. The last issue I have had with the car and after driving for 100 miles, no shadow codes. Excited from this I ordered Stage 2+ LPFP. I will order the Flex Fuel kit from Motiv on next month when I have my next paycheck.
IMG_20230320_175101.jpg
 
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odesh

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BOV and new charge pipe go in and seem to be working fine. Little tip for people from Europe and even if you are in US: With Tial BOV/Tial style BOV you need to use larger vacuum line so the BOV will work the right way. You can either tap manifold or use adapter to make this line upgrade. Burger, ARM, Vader etc. make this kind of adapter and they are around $50-80. Not that expensive, but the shipping to EU is $100-250... Looked into other options from Europe but didn't seem to find anything similar. Had to go to Alibaba route and found a really good looking adapter that some of the more expensive brands are probably dropshipping/rebranding. Managed to find seller from Aliexpress that sells these adapters, so I didn't need to buy in bulk.

Link to the adapter if you are interested: The adapter

The whole thing with shipping only cost $30. Not the best quality, but the adapter itself works great without any problems. I replaced the cheap Chinese made hose connectors with actual brand ones, for just in case. I also replaced the stock BOV 10 psi spring with 11 psi one, since the 10 psi seems to be just a hair too weak.
 

Boorda

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2) You really want a 'stage 3' LPFP at a minimum. Throw a 535 in the bucket & do some EKP cooling mods while in there is my vote.
..................................This ⬆️ .................................................................And definitely this ⬆️

Modified EKP (I used a small PC fan and eventually soldiered the power leads internally)
EKPM3 Cooling Mod.jpg




8) Are you an automatic? if so you might want to consider xHP tranny tunah. If manual you need a clutch upgrade.
I agree here, I'm automatic and xHP tranny flash is amazing.


9) You may want to consider the BMS 335D charge pipe and the 335D coolant tank as you have to buy a Tial ready CP anyways and you will be moving your coolant tank....and the 335D coolant tank is inexpensive: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/coolant-expansion-tank/17138570079~bav/ $60 the 335D coolant tank fits a bit better.
You'll want the Coolant Relocation Kit from Precision Raceworks as well. Too bad they didn't have this when I did mine years ago. 😭



BTW, how's the build going?
 
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odesh

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Mar 6, 2023
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..................................This ⬆️ .................................................................And definitely this ⬆️

Modified EKP (I used a small PC fan and eventually soldiered the power leads internally)
View attachment 86827




I agree here, I'm automatic and xHP tranny flash is amazing.



You'll want the Coolant Relocation Kit from Precision Raceworks as well. Too bad they didn't have this when I did mine years ago. 😭



BTW, how's the build going?
Build is kinda stuck atm. Have had a lot of things happening in my life. Bought a house and had some major health issues that I need to figure out before I can continue the build.

I have managed to do couple things tho. Not a lot of progress, but hey even little progress is still progress. I managed to fit the car with the 535 fuel pump before the winter started. Also replaced all the old coolant pipes that looked to be in the bad condition since the plastic connection on the oil filter housing failed. Also I bought new engine mounts, oil pan gasket and new bolts ready to be used when I drop the sub frame.

I also decided to go with Pulsar G35-900 from Speedtech. Idk if I will just buy the "Garrett G-series kit" without the turbo and provide my own turbo from Finnish reseller, since we have local seller just couple miles from my home. I believe the Pulsar will work with the kit since it's copy of the Garrett one. This way I would save from import taxes of 24% and weight while shipping it. I just need to figure out the way to ship the bloody thing overseas. Turned out to be a lot harder than I though since most companies don't just direct ship to Europe. I need to find a carrier or someone that already resells these kits in Europe, but haven't managed to find one yet. Need to keep on looking.

Will save some money during winter. Getting a real estate loan and buying a house took fast majority of my cash out of my pocket so I really can't buy new parts atm.
 
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