E9X Need help with alignment on a 335XI w/ kW v3, M3 RCA, Megan Racing Adjustable Rear Camber Arm

Rob09msport

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It is a gc eibach spring I specifically told them I wanted half inch drop from stock and that I was concerned about coil bind they told me that their springs are custom made and the 6 inch won't bind I feel like I may have been jerked
 

Rob09msport

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How much travel does our front suspension have that's what I was trying to find or figure out I guesstimated 2 inches from my static height but could be way off cause if it's 4 inches from full drop im not in horrible shape and a 7 inch spring should be perfect
 

barry@3DM

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How much travel does our front suspension have that's what I was trying to find or figure out I guesstimated 2 inches from my static height but could be way off cause if it's 4 inches from full drop im not in horrible shape and a 7 inch spring should be perfect

Maybe start a new thread and tag me on it so we don't hijack the thread anymore than we already have, lol?

The GC eibach springs have a little more travel to coil bind than your regular "race" spring. I'm sure they have a spec for it.

Your front suspension travel depends on what kind of damper you have. Its called stroke length which is the distance from fully extended to fully compressed. Spring travel can be tricky to measure. If you have a long stroke length on the damper and a short spring, the spring will not have any preload at full droop. Is your spring seated when the suspension is at full droop? I'm asking because if not then you have to do a bunch of detailed measuring.
 
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zmon1300

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Still trying to get this straight. Before the rear arm replacement you had factory alignment settings, there was no play in the steering and WOT acceleration was stable. You then replaced the rear control arm and rear upper camber arm, had it aligned to the same factory specs as before, then there was play in the front steering and WOT acceleration made the back end get loose.

I'm Trying to figure out how you got play in the front steering when nothing was changed up front. Curious to hear how WOT acceleration is with new alignment in rear with less toe in.

Sorry to confuse you lol. I never changed anything in the front and have always (since i can remember) had play in the steering wheel before the car darted in a different direction. I did the M3 CA and all that crap and the car takes cornering ALOT better to say the least. I still have that play in the steering wheel which is what I am trying to eliminate via alignment. Its been raining every day here in Chicagoland so WOT 2nd is the only thing I got and car seemed to stay straight. I want to wait till it stops raining so I can actually do a 2-3-4 pull to confirm. But for the most part, car is taking corners ALOT better, less body roll, feels alot more stable. I just wish I could get rid of the steering wheel vagueness.
 
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barry@3DM

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Sorry to confuse you lol. I never changed anything in the front and have always (since i can remember) had play in the steering wheel before the car darted in a different direction. I did the M3 CA and all that crap and the car takes cornering ALOT better to say the least. I still have that play in the steering wheel which is what I am trying to eliminate via alignment. Its been raining every day here in Chicagoland so WOT 2nd is the only thing I got and car seemed to stay straight. I want to wait till it stops raining so I can actually do a 2-3-4 pull to confirm. But for the most part, car is taking corners ALOT better, less body roll, feels alot more stable. I just wish I could get rid of the steering wheel vagueness.

Too much toe in or toe out on the front definitely will cause a delay in steering response. However, it has to be WAY toed in/out for that to happen. Small deviations from the factory alignment won't cause that.

I assume you have checked for play in the steering rack and tie rod ball joints? Really check that closely. Do you have standard or active steering?

That's good to hear about the cornering. Still curious to see what happens at WOT in the dry. Just thinking out loud and wonder if with the new control arms it is adding more dynamic toe in under acceleration than before. If so then static factory specs would be too much, IE you would need to run less static toe in like you are trying. Interesting.

Cheers,
Barry
 
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fmorelli

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I didn't catch this in the thread, but front end wise I highly recommend installing a spherical bearing or monoball in the tension strut. My Z4 has electric steering, which some don't like the response - in my case the car is very quick with pretty good feel, steering-wise. I'm convinced the AKG spherical bearing significantly contributed to this (I'm running M3 E90 FCA and H&R sways as well, like many).

Filippo
 
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Rob09msport

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I didn't catch this in the thread, but front end wise I highly recommend installing a spherical bearing or monoball in the tension strut. My Z4 has electric steering, which some don't like the response - in my case the car is very quick with pretty good feel, steering-wise. I'm convinced the AKG spherical bearing significantly contributed to this (I'm running M3 E90 FCA and H&R sways as well, like many).

Filippo
No nvh right ?
 
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Jeffman

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I didn't catch this in the thread, but front end wise I highly recommend installing a spherical bearing or monoball in the tension strut. My Z4 has electric steering, which some don't like the response - in my case the car is very quick with pretty good feel, steering-wise. I'm convinced the AKG spherical bearing significantly contributed to this (I'm running M3 E90 FCA and H&R sways as well, like many).

Filippo
I’m also looking at tightening up my XI front end with Turner monoball bushings, but the Turner website says fitment not for XI. Do you know differently? Likewise, the AKG website isn’t clear as to XI fitment or not.
 

fmorelli

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I don't know about the Xi. You might ask AKG for some measurements.

Filippo
 

fmorelli

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