MMP1k logs -- Boost leak?

MoreBoost

Sergeant
Jul 27, 2017
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335i
I get that - you can run stacked for sure. But I don't believe you can log with MHD, or none of it would be accurate, since the DME (which is what MHD logs) has no idea what the JB4 is doing, and none of the values would be correct.

There are many ways you can wire a jb4 so that you can log with MHD if you want.

I've been a jb4 user for about 4 years. Mhd for the back end flash etc.
 

langsbr

Captain
Apr 5, 2017
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07 335i 6MT e90
There are many ways you can wire a jb4 so that you can log with MHD if you want.

I've been a jb4 user for about 4 years. Mhd for the back end flash etc.
\

Can you elaborate? I dislike the JB4 logs tremendously, but wouldn't mind its safeties and features. If I can accurately log with MHD while using a JB4, then I may get one.
 

Panzerfaust

Lieutenant
Jul 3, 2018
637
438
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Chicago
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E92 335i
It's not risky if done correctly, but I won't argue that if you're one who routinely fucks things up, this is a somewhat slightly worse than horrible idea. In general, the less talented an individual is, or the more complex the problem (which is the same thing to the less talented guy... ha!) the more you want to rely on strict/formal troubleshooting. It'll never have the efficiency of an experienced hand though. A good test guy knows when and how to use both methods.

I'd be surprised if the wastegates were bad out of the box. I wouldn't be surprised if solenoids/vac lines/etc were bad.
I actually genuinely do appreciate the info, and would use it in a pinch for sure. I'm just assuming my issue lies with the solenoids or vacuum lines because of the rest of the behavior of the car and my intake tract is almost all new past the outlets + oil free with my PCV setup.
 

morffius

Specialist
Jul 15, 2017
87
16
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135i
I actually genuinely do appreciate the info, and would use it in a pinch for sure. I'm just assuming my issue lies with the solenoids or vacuum lines because of the rest of the behavior of the car and my intake tract is almost all new past the outlets + oil free with my PCV setup.
What turbo setup do you have?
 

morffius

Specialist
Jul 15, 2017
87
16
0
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135i
Ok so I got the vacuum tester and connected it one waste gate at a time and sure enough you can hear them close at 5.5. The front one is hard to reach from the top, but you can hear it close on video. The rear one closes at 5.5 and if you reach to touch the arm you cannot push it any further.

Now when I bought the turbos I did have to send one back in because when the wastegate would close there was a slight opening because it wasn’t centered. Could it be that the wastegates are not closing flush, so there is a persistent leak?

My next step is to pressurize and look for boost leaks.

The videos below you can see the back arm closing and the front video you can hear it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z7owpnnfwlg7qx4/AABy3Zmj-5CCic9rCFJWzYpDa?dl=0
 
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Blaster3500

Sergeant
Nov 5, 2016
296
247
0
SC
I think there is a reason there are next to no results from these turbos. It doesnt even seem like MMP tested these before the release. I hope it is not a design issue with the housing, but it is sure starting to look like it.
 

morffius

Specialist
Jul 15, 2017
87
16
0
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135i
I didn't read through the whole thread, but if you're not sure the turbos are turbo-ing, you can easily figure it out, with the caveat that you're TAKING YOUR MOTOR'S LIFE INTO YOUR OWN HANDS IF YOU ARE TOO STUPID TO GET OFF THE THROTTLE IN TIME. Basically, bypass all the boost solenoid BS and run your vac pump line straight to the turbo actuators. The actuators will be fully closed (assuming they're ok). Go, in first gear, slowly drive out (start logging when practically at idle) then stand on it until you start to build boost. You must immediately get out of the throttle, or she's going to build as much boost as is possible as fast as is possible. If they're healthy you'll be building boost in a hurry.

We've done this plenty of times to figure out if a car had odd control issues, solenoid issues, etc. Just use your head, it's a useful tip but if you are foolish you'll definitely blow your stuff up.

Chris


I am going to reseat the outlets. Again. And then I really might do this. It would tell me if the wastegates are closing but not sealing.
 

langsbr

Captain
Apr 5, 2017
1,267
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07 335i 6MT e90
Did you not drop the downpipes? You need to drop the downpipes to visually confirm it.
 

langsbr

Captain
Apr 5, 2017
1,267
771
0
Ride
07 335i 6MT e90
One of mine was clocked in shipping so it didn't close properly at 5.5, not a big deal to correct, but definitely a bitch once installed.
notclosed55.jpg
 

langsbr

Captain
Apr 5, 2017
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That one definitely looks good. If the other one is good, then I'd say the turbos aren't the issue, and it's possibly the solenoids, or the vacuum line.

You may need to embrace Chris' suggestion of bypassing the solenoids and just running the vacuum line direct.

From your logs, I just don't see how it can be a boost leak, since it's backwards of what you'd expect. I would think you'd spool proper, but not hit target. You're spooling late, and then hitting target or close to it with proper WGDC.
 

langsbr

Captain
Apr 5, 2017
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I disagree that it doesn't look much different. Yours doesn't hit 15psi until 4200 rpms, and that log hits 15psi at 3400 even with a dip. That's a tremendous difference. I'm on regular MMP S3s and I hit 15psi at 3300 rpms. My target is higher than yours, but the target on that log is 18psi and it hits it at 3100, you're not hitting target of 19psi until 4600.

If the rear turbo wastegate checks out ok, and if the solenoid bypass test doesn't yield proper results (I still don't like that test), you then have the following as possibilities: (brainstorming here)

vacuum line leak
boost leak - seems unlikely since you eventually hit target

Until you say otherwise, I have to put my money on the other wastegate. I just don't see how it would be anything else right now.
 

morffius

Specialist
Jul 15, 2017
87
16
0
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135i
F6CA3916-79C5-468F-8560-DC17C2420260.jpeg
Checked the rear yesterday and it did close at 5.5. I noticed that the vacuum wouldn’t hold well, so I pulled off the vacuum line and there was a slight abrasion/burn on the line. I thought I had found the problem! I then replaced it with line from O’reilly and took it for a drive.... same problem. 30ff code and slow spool.

I ordered more vacuum line and t fittings. I will replace it all and report back.




I disagree that it doesn't look much different. Yours doesn't hit 15psi until 4200 rpms, and that log hits 15psi at 3400 even with a dip. That's a tremendous difference. I'm on regular MMP S3s and I hit 15psi at 3300 rpms. My target is higher than yours, but the target on that log is 18psi and it hits it at 3100, you're not hitting target of 19psi until 4600.

If the rear turbo wastegate checks out ok, and if the solenoid bypass test doesn't yield proper results (I still don't like that test), you then have the following as possibilities: (brainstorming here)

vacuum line leak
boost leak - seems unlikely since you eventually hit target

Until you say otherwise, I have to put my money on the other wastegate. I just don't see how it would be anything else right now.
 
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