MMP1k logs -- Boost leak?
- Thread starter morffius
- Start date
Found it I was close.
5.5inHG the valve should just seat on the openeing and you should still be able to spin the valve on the seat without too much effort
5.5inHG the valve should just seat on the openeing and you should still be able to spin the valve on the seat without too much effort
Here is a testing plate with a hole for a valve stem. A silicone reduced to fit my ade intake pipe and a couple tbolt clamps.
A system can pass a smoke test all day long until you put 20-30 psi into it with something like this. Then you'll start hearing the silicone screeching and hissing
A system can pass a smoke test all day long until you put 20-30 psi into it with something like this. Then you'll start hearing the silicone screeching and hissing
Impressive knowledge
I had my GCs installed by a local shop and I doubt they checked things like this. Pretty sure they just hooked everything up.
Maybe they did more and I didn't realise. They work on scoobys and Evos.
Good luck OP. I hope you get it sorted. In the past I've had the chargepipe not mate correctly with the throttle body but the leak was incredibly obvious. It's always a worry that silicone hoses might melt or split. It's worth having a good look around connections like to the intercooler and if you can get at them, the connections to the turbos. Often hear of the rear hoses falling off the rear turbo. A real PITA to get at.
Most people don't check them, and in most cases it's never an issue. But, it's just like I tell domestic guys - it's like degreeing your cam. You're validating that everything is correct before you seal it up. That way it's one less thing to wonder about when/if there is an issue.
If the OP had a shop install them, I'd put it on them - sure, you want them to be adjusted correctly when you get them, but things happen in shipping, and a shop should do things right, and confirming proper wastegate operation is part of the job.
If the OP had a shop install them, I'd put it on them - sure, you want them to be adjusted correctly when you get them, but things happen in shipping, and a shop should do things right, and confirming proper wastegate operation is part of the job.
I did the install myself. The other area I am concerned about is the connection between the manifold and the turbo housing.
Billet Plug: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Pre...em-intercooler-silicone-aluminum/192592676494
You'll need a 2.5" reducer to whatever size your intake pipe OD is. Then a pair of T-bolt clamps and a tire valve stem.
Got the fog machine today and plugged one inlet and filled the other. I did it with each inlet. I didn't see any smoke leak anywhere. Next step is to gather the parts for a pressure test.
I ran through the outlet connections again and thought I could do better with the front outlet connection. I undid it and reseated the silicone and tightened down the clamp.
I think I did improve the boost leak some! Here is the log. I get an extra lb of boost at 3500 rpm and 500rpm sooner, it hits 17-18lbs.
The vacuum tester will come tomorrow so I will try to test the wastegates in the next few days.
https://datazap.me/u/morffius/front-outlet-tightening?log=0&data=3-5-23
I ran through the outlet connections again and thought I could do better with the front outlet connection. I undid it and reseated the silicone and tightened down the clamp.
I think I did improve the boost leak some! Here is the log. I get an extra lb of boost at 3500 rpm and 500rpm sooner, it hits 17-18lbs.
The vacuum tester will come tomorrow so I will try to test the wastegates in the next few days.
https://datazap.me/u/morffius/front-outlet-tightening?log=0&data=3-5-23
Looking at your latest log, I'd say it almost has to be the wastegates not closing as they should. At 3500 rpms, you're running 85% WGDC after pid and only getting 7.6psi of boost. Granted, I have regular MMPs, not the 1Ks, but at 3500 rpms, my tune has WGDC after pid at 39% and I'm hitting 19psi.
Since you have the smoke machine, you might try smoke testing your vacuum lines to make sure you don't have a leak in that too.
Since you have the smoke machine, you might try smoke testing your vacuum lines to make sure you don't have a leak in that too.
I am not sure about the throttle position. I thought I had it floored with traction control off and I was on manual mode (automatic tranny).
I will check the closure of the wastegates tomorrow after I get the tester. I was really hoping it was not the wastegates as I am not looking forward to taking off the front turbo to adjust it.
Here's one of mine - accel pedal is 99.6, which is WOT. Throttle position is 81 until 4300 rpms when it starts closing to maintain boost target.
I can't remember - do you have to drop the turbo to adjust the wastegate? If you can get a wrench on that nut, you should be able to do it on the car.
I can't remember - do you have to drop the turbo to adjust the wastegate? If you can get a wrench on that nut, you should be able to do it on the car.
I can do the rear turbo just fine, but the front is behind the turbo. I will do some research on it. If I take off the outlets I might be able to get back there.
I didn't read through the whole thread, but if you're not sure the turbos are turbo-ing, you can easily figure it out, with the caveat that you're TAKING YOUR MOTOR'S LIFE INTO YOUR OWN HANDS IF YOU ARE TOO STUPID TO GET OFF THE THROTTLE IN TIME. Basically, bypass all the boost solenoid BS and run your vac pump line straight to the turbo actuators. The actuators will be fully closed (assuming they're ok). Go, in first gear, slowly drive out (start logging when practically at idle) then stand on it until you start to build boost. You must immediately get out of the throttle, or she's going to build as much boost as is possible as fast as is possible. If they're healthy you'll be building boost in a hurry.
We've done this plenty of times to figure out if a car had odd control issues, solenoid issues, etc. Just use your head, it's a useful tip but if you are foolish you'll definitely blow your stuff up.
Chris
We've done this plenty of times to figure out if a car had odd control issues, solenoid issues, etc. Just use your head, it's a useful tip but if you are foolish you'll definitely blow your stuff up.
Chris
