Just another MMP Stage 3 Dyno

[veer90]

I finally dyno'd my hoopty. Thought I'd share some results.

• MMP stage 3 turbos, inlets and outlets
• DIY twin 450 LPFP and harness with 15 psi hobbs
• MMP port injection (gen 1) with AIC6
• Full e85 (tested at 84% ethanol)
• Precision Raceworks FPR/return line kit
• VRSF 7.5" Race IC, downpipes, charge pipe, intakes, etc.

Flash only MHD tuning by @V8bait Justin - 692 whp / 570 wtq

Temperature was in the 70s, and humidity around 60%. Shop owner stated they had the newest Dynojet software which reads a bit low, or something like that. I don't know anything about dyno software, I just send. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Dyno pulls done from ~3k rpm in 4th gear. Will be logging and posting street pulls from lower rpms to test spool, and the accuracy of Virtual Dyno.

Shout-out to:

• Justin H. - great to work with and very knowledgeable tuner
• VRSF - great to deal with, I run a lot of their parts never had an issue
• @pcracing - much thanks for helping with my DIY LPFP
• Motiv - closed deck motor running like a top for almost 20k miles

 

[Bumbleb]

What PSI or did I miss it?

 

[dyezak]

Any MHD logs for us to see? I'm curious what the WGDC is and how much is left in these turbos.

 

[Milan]

What were the corrected numbers?

 

[veer90]

https://datazap.me/u/veer90/v8bait-v16-v17-68x-692-whp?log=0&data=3-24

Corrected was about 10-20 whp lower depends whether you used SAE or DIN. The STD correction that reads higher doesn't exist in the latest dynojet software.

 

[dyezak]

https://datazap.me/u/veer90/v8bait-v16-v17-68x-692-whp?log=0&data=3-24

Corrected was about 10-20 whp lower depends whether you used SAE or DIN. The STD correction that reads higher doesn't exist in the latest dynojet software.

WGDC getting close to 80% at the top of the pull... Not much steam left in those turbos. Great results, though. 700whp is f'n awesome.

 

[pysical]

Nice numbers. Does anyone know how the MMP 1k compare to the original GCs?

 

[doublespaces]

https://datazap.me/u/veer90/v8bait-v16-v17-68x-692-whp?log=0&data=3-24

Corrected was about 10-20 whp lower depends whether you used SAE or DIN. The STD correction that reads higher doesn't exist in the latest dynojet software.

I did my baseline in SAE, I think we may as well just post all graphs with that from now on.

 

[veer90]

I did my baseline in SAE, I think we may as well just post all graphs with that from now on.

No one's gonna go for that, everyone wants numbers lol

 

[buster84]

Just to confirn, your first post mentions a shoutout about a motor, you have a built motor? If so why not post those specs as well since it's not just the turbos but the engine that attributed to those numbers.

 

[langsbr]

Awesome numbers! I have some questions that you or V8Bait may be able to answer, as I'm still new to this platform.

1. You said the dyno started at 3000 rpms, but the datalog shows full throttle just before 4000 rpms. Is that an "auto" thing? (assuming your car is an automatic)

2. Your WGDC steadily increases thru the run. Is that normal? All of my logs have the WGDC (base value and after pid) flat. My tuner didn't have me log wgdc %, just the base value and after pid value. Is there a reason? What's the difference? I haven't found enough on DME tuning to know what the PID is.

3. Any idea what happened to the timing in the last 100 rpms? It dropped all the way to 0 before throttle was lifted. Is that a cause for concern?

4. What is the difference in load requested values? I notice a difference in yours and mine. not huge, but mine is only requesting 180, and yours is at 200. Just curious what that even means, or results in.

 

[langsbr]

Just to confirn, your first post mentions a shoutout about a motor, you have a built motor? If so why not post those specs as well since it's not just the turbos but the engine that attributed to those numbers.

I forget who the quote is attributed to, but there is no power made in the bottom end of a motor. I thinking he has a built shortblock, i.e. pistons and rods. I would think a ported head or cams would be disclosed.

 

[veer90]

I forget who the quote is attributed to, but there is no power made in the bottom end of a motor. I thinking he has a built shortblock, i.e. pistons and rods. I would think a ported head or cams would be disclosed.

The head is stock. I didn't want to deal with VAC; at the time they were the only option.

CR is also stock. No difference in power from a stock motor other than I can have full torque at low rpms that otherwise would bend rods.

 

[buster84]

The head is stock. I didn't want to deal with VAC; at the time they were the only option.

CR is also stock. No difference in power from a stock motor other than I can have full torque at low rpms that otherwise would bend rods.

So it's just updated forged rods and pistons? Out of curiosty, how much did it cost you? What's your engines maximum power potential?

 

[BQTuning]

that is a beautiful power curve

 

[Payam@BMS]

Nice, got a graph with RPM trace?

 

[veer90]

Nice, got a graph with RPM trace?

Wasn't able to get that. I'll be updating with street pulls from ~2.5k for spool when I get the chance.

 

[Payam@BMS]

Wasn't able to get that. I'll be updating with street pulls from ~2.5k for spool when I get the chance.

okay

 

[zmon1300]

Wow that's awesome, I am jealous you have no timing corrections on cylinder 5 LOL. Did you use the de-sensitized knock tables to achieve that? Just wondering.

Z

 

[veer90]

I had to desensitize the knock sensors a lot. Aftermarket pistons / closed deck insert generate and transmit much more noise to the knock sensors, though this varies depending on who built / assembled the motor. We figured out it was false knocking due to some ingenuity on Justin's part.

Turns out Terry encountered the same problem back in 2014: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpost.php?p=339464&postcount=1

I'm on factory knock tables and have trim pots wired into the knock sensors at 70k ohms. Started with 65k ohms and turned it up until most of the timing corrections were gone. I check spark plugs regularly for signs of pre-ignition / detonation, and over 10k miles of abuse at 30 psi they've held up great.

That being said, it's a risky solution that isn't for everyone. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you have a stock motor.