FMIC
- Thread starter 135boost
- Start date
I done this on a mates car, cost was.around 1.5k in parts alone and using the ppk ducts in the left hand guard
Can be done
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You know thats in aussie dollars and the ic is tube & fin and not a cheap ass a bar and plate.
Plus it has all quality components with an upgraded power steering cooler and everything is hand made.
Thats why it costs, every kit is strictly tested in terms of fitment and quality control as there is absolutely no room for error.
I used the factory ppk cooler and modified it to cool the transmission.
Temps never go over 180f
Temps never go over 180f
Im talkIng about using a water to air intercooler running off of the factory transmission oil cooler.
Our system already struggles with heat, adding that would/could take it over the top.
But hell why not try it, if it doesn't work you can always sell it.
But hell why not try it, if it doesn't work you can always sell it.
Yeah.i figure remove trans cooler from circuit,independent cooling. Use free cooler for water to air cooler using existing pump/heat exchanger
The limit is your imagination and your wallet.
If you have the funds and skills go for it, I was told many times my ideas are silly or expensive.
But I persevered and the results speak for them selves.
If you have the funds and skills go for it, I was told many times my ideas are silly or expensive.
But I persevered and the results speak for them selves.
just throwing this out there.would it make sense to move the stock heat exchanger from behind intercooler to drivers side wheel well?now its getting air blowing over exchanger and would work better.just brainstorming here.
It could possibly work unless you have a ppk kit or another oil cooler in there but then how do you cool the transmission.
You would be better off removing the ic and mount a custom radiator in front of the factory radiator just like the jd tuning ic, relocate the transcooler to the left guard and mount the air to water ic where the factory one sits with some kind of pump setup.
You would be better off removing the ic and mount a custom radiator in front of the factory radiator just like the jd tuning ic, relocate the transcooler to the left guard and mount the air to water ic where the factory one sits with some kind of pump setup.
Hi again.
Standing 1 mile run is done for today.
Results made me satisfied with best run
Trap speed 193.8 mph ( unofficiel still)
New fmic work well, turbos is running out of steam, they don't keep pressure targets anymore.
I think that 193.8mph / 312kmh is quite decent with unopened engine and transmission.
I will put logs when i have time for it
Standing 1 mile run is done for today.
Results made me satisfied with best run
Trap speed 193.8 mph ( unofficiel still)
New fmic work well, turbos is running out of steam, they don't keep pressure targets anymore.
I think that 193.8mph / 312kmh is quite decent with unopened engine and transmission.
I will put logs when i have time for it
hi again.
now i have done some analyzes of 1 mile runs and some good and some bad informations.
old setup
VRSF 5 inch street fmic
-start temp 80F and end temp 185F (iat +105F@30sec)
-run lenght about 30 sec flat out
-1 liter(1/4 gallon) ultrafine mist of windshield washer fluid sprayed on
the outside of fmic at whole run
-wdgc in level 80 whole run
-boost target 28 psi
-boost 28 psi
log https://datazap.me/u/maantec/steptronic-135i?log=0&data=1-4
new setup
VRFS race 7.5 inch fmic
-start temp 96F(heat soak in lineup) and end temp 123F (iat + 27F@ 30sec)
-run lenght about 30 sec flat out
-1 liter(1/4 gallon) ultrafine mist of windshield washer fluid sprayed on
the outside of fmic at whole run
-wdgc in level 80 whole run
-boost target 28 psi
-boost 25 psi
log https://datazap.me/u/maantec/steptronic-135i-0?log=0&data=1-4
compare and enjoy
#edit#
like i told before, there is a difference in real full pull run and dyno queen.
on dyno, you get constanrtair flow trough intercooler what supposed to be road speed
of some 100-200 kmh without any heat soak on it cause of very little resistance of rollers (measure inertia) and from that a 1 gear pull (4th) lasting maybe 5 sec.
on real life, start is from zero, no air flow trough ic, only heat soak, then like on these
standing mile runs 30 sec wot with increased air flow trouhg whole run but on other
side with more heat soak all the time to ic.
on that first run if you analyze the curve of iat, temp stability of ic could be prox reached some 1 minute after start (run ended long before that) at some 220F.
on second run, same situation, temp stability take a minute to reach and
there it could be in a range of 140F (start temp was 96f but caused on heat soak so
i do calculations on 80F in this case too)
now i have done some analyzes of 1 mile runs and some good and some bad informations.
old setup
VRSF 5 inch street fmic
-start temp 80F and end temp 185F (iat +105F@30sec)
-run lenght about 30 sec flat out
-1 liter(1/4 gallon) ultrafine mist of windshield washer fluid sprayed on
the outside of fmic at whole run
-wdgc in level 80 whole run
-boost target 28 psi
-boost 28 psi
log https://datazap.me/u/maantec/steptronic-135i?log=0&data=1-4
new setup
VRFS race 7.5 inch fmic
-start temp 96F(heat soak in lineup) and end temp 123F (iat + 27F@ 30sec)
-run lenght about 30 sec flat out
-1 liter(1/4 gallon) ultrafine mist of windshield washer fluid sprayed on
the outside of fmic at whole run
-wdgc in level 80 whole run
-boost target 28 psi
-boost 25 psi
log https://datazap.me/u/maantec/steptronic-135i-0?log=0&data=1-4
compare and enjoy
#edit#
like i told before, there is a difference in real full pull run and dyno queen.
on dyno, you get constanrtair flow trough intercooler what supposed to be road speed
of some 100-200 kmh without any heat soak on it cause of very little resistance of rollers (measure inertia) and from that a 1 gear pull (4th) lasting maybe 5 sec.
on real life, start is from zero, no air flow trough ic, only heat soak, then like on these
standing mile runs 30 sec wot with increased air flow trouhg whole run but on other
side with more heat soak all the time to ic.
on that first run if you analyze the curve of iat, temp stability of ic could be prox reached some 1 minute after start (run ended long before that) at some 220F.
on second run, same situation, temp stability take a minute to reach and
there it could be in a range of 140F (start temp was 96f but caused on heat soak so
i do calculations on 80F in this case too)
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Have you did some test on how well the washer fluid spray on the fmic work? Reason i ask is i also made a washer fluid spray for the fmic. But never really have the time to do back to back test/log.
about washer fluid mist pray effect, that`s quite difficult to monitor
on other place than a dyno so it`s only best guess of 5 degree Celsius
in the end of 1 miler.
on other place than a dyno so it`s only best guess of 5 degree Celsius
in the end of 1 miler.
From my street testing. I can say it help stop/delay the power loss from heat soke which help the ic stay in its effective cool range i guess. Which is worth it for me to spray it.
Get er done, i made a kit for about $50. Anyone interested can amazon a windshield kit, $20,hobbs are another $25 if looking for auto on/off.i just used a regular switch, and made a tube spray manifold
Quick question, but why not just spray a small amount of methanol into the up pipe or charge pipe to drop the IAT to trigger at over 50% throttle input to combat heat soak? Then the FMIC should do it's job after that.
Love the idea of cooling down the FMIC, but really don't like the idea of spraying anything on the outside that could drip or contaminate engine bay air quality.
What about spraying 50/50 WM into the hot side/outlet? Would it combust?
Love the idea of cooling down the FMIC, but really don't like the idea of spraying anything on the outside that could drip or contaminate engine bay air quality.
What about spraying 50/50 WM into the hot side/outlet? Would it combust?
