1 failed rod bearing

[SLOWESTN54]

I recently noticed a high quantity of metal shavings in my oil filter during a regular oil change, and decided to replace the filter and check again in 500km's. Sure enough same amount of material in the filter again. Which lead to me dropping the oil pan and checking my rod bearings today. 1,3,4,5,6 look like they have equal wear but 2 is worn significantly more. # 2 also happens to be 15 psi lower in compression then the rest. Is it possible I might have a slightly bent rod causing premature wear?

 

[mj6234]

Is there a 'community standard' for boost taper? I have tuned my own car, and have kept it fairly low (18psi) until later maybe 4000-4200. Virtual dyno says 450wtq on upgraded twins, but you know you know I just wanna go fast.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Even with a built motor I get @V8bait to taper in my tunes otherwise it's just wheel spin when you hit boost.

@V8bait tapered boost in for me when i got my custom tune done from him. Biggest difference with his tune is how much more traction i have. I hook first gear now with a bit a load reduction. I believe i actually went with @V8bait from your recommendation.

 

[Torgus]

Haha you know your extooner is the best in the game when there's a massive post in the Octagon about him.

RFP Tuning (aka Dean Fuhriman)?​

and yes what is the point of a done of low end tq if you just blow the tires off every time you get on it? We are limited with the size of tires we can run, probably a good thing as we would break more things trying to put down a boat load of tq at 2.5k if we could actually hook and put the power down. A ton of stress on everything. I would expect more snapped axels, drive shafts, bolts etc.

My whole thing is if you have to taper the boost so much it almost looks like a ST dyno then what is the point? Might as well get a ST and have half as many failure points and the potential for significantly more top end. How hard are you spinning the twins to make the same HP as a ST? Obviously it depends on what your goals are for the car and what you are doing with it 90% of the time. For me I don't fuck around town anymore, I am not a kid, and I don't want to kill someone or get a ticket. Highway roll races are make more sense and with the limited tire size, a better application for the n54 platform IMO is roll races 1/2 mile, you can make it into a 1/4 mile car if you want but still not the best times given the HP output, we trap good mph but put down bad ETs in general. We have oil starvation and massive cooling issues at the track. Not the engine I would choose for 'actual' racing on a track. The S65 is a much better car for the track. But to each their own and do your own thing.

 

[martymil]

Is there a 'community standard' for boost taper? I have tuned my own car, and have kept it fairly low (18psi) until later maybe 4000-4200. Virtual dyno says 450wtq on upgraded twins, but you know you know I just wanna go fast.

There is no standard it's just good practice unless you want a kill tune as the motor wont last long.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

RFP Tuning (aka Dean Fuhriman)?

Ding ding ding.

 

[Torgus]

Ding ding ding.

The history of the quote “Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner” began on the Vegas strip, when, back in the day, every casino had a $1.79 three-piece chicken dinner, which included a potato and a veggie. Back in those days, a standard bet was $2. If you won a hand, you would have enough money to buy this dinner, hence the quote. During that time period , this chicken dinner was the most common, cheapest meal around. So essentially, when you’re repeating this line, what you’re really saying is “YAY, I won $5 bucks! I have enough to buy myself a happy meal!”

 

[RNM]

It's an expensive lesson to learn, but at least you had fun with that torque bomb melody.

 

[V8bait]

Ramping boost up slowly can mean different things for different setups and different cars. Some do it to protect the 6at, some because of traction, some to preserve the bottom end of the motor. Some prefer a powerband that keeps feeling like it's building, instead of boom power then an anemic feeling up top. But limiting torque this way isn't like having a big single (some singles ramp in boost too btw...), a big single will lag and make little power down low whereas ramping in boost in a controlled manor gives you whatever power you want wherever you want it.

Here's a graph from Tony. He wanted me to ramp in boost so he could have traction on his slicks. Duty cycle hit peak at around 6500rpm. I don't think he was lacking much in torque and definitely not like having a single lol. Just a technique and generally the one performance cars employ universally (vs tractor pulls).

Let me see if I can find the max effort one with full duty through the entire gear lol... I hate seeing them since they're so useless but they are popular with vendors to sell things...

 

[RuskiRacer]

Ramping boost up slowly can mean different things for different setups and different cars. Some do it to protect the 6at, some because of traction, some to preserve the bottom end of the motor. Some prefer a powerband that keeps feeling like it's building, instead of boom power then an anemic feeling up top. But limiting torque this way isn't like having a big single (some singles ramp in boost too btw...), a big single will lag and make little power down low whereas ramping in boost in a controlled manor gives you whatever power you want wherever you want it.

Here's a graph from Tony. He wanted me to ramp in boost so he could have traction on his slicks. Duty cycle hit peak at around 6500rpm. I don't think he was lacking much in torque and definitely not like having a single lol. Just a technique and generally the one performance cars employ universally (vs tractor pulls).

View attachment 56315


Let me see if I can find the max effort one with full duty through the entire gear lol... I hate seeing them since they're so useless but they are popular with vendors to sell things...

Would be interested in seeing the max effort pull ramping in Boost aggressive

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Wouldn't a tweaked rod also cause tons of false knock due to improper balance? Or would would it make no difference to the balance of the engine as it still weighs the same amount?

 

[RuskiRacer]

Wouldn't a tweaked rod also cause tons of false knock due to improper balance? Or would would it make no difference to the balance of the engine as it still weighs the same amount?

It has to throw the harmonics of a motor off a bit

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Update: got the car back up and running, broke in my clutch. Decided do try a second gear pull and the rear turbo didn’t like the idea. Anyone have good turbo recommendations I think I want to stick to twins for now?

 

[RuskiRacer]

Id just get a good bottom mount kit. Otherwise rb game finishers

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Id just get a good bottom mount kit. Otherwise rb game finishers

I might be wrong but aren't the RB game finishers, the new VTTO turbos, Daw Flow max plus's, all the same turbos? Also would you recommend the speed tech bottom mount kit?

 

[RuskiRacer]

Yeah they basically all are the same manifolds, what the chras and wheel size of the different companies im not sure. Speedtech is a solid bottom mount kit very sleeper kit , seen a e90 at the track with one last weekend and you wouldn't even know if you didn't ask the owner and he didn't have a speedtech sticker. Ces also has a really good bottom mount kit although its a bit more expensive

 

[Torgus]

I might be wrong but aren't the RB game finishers, the new VTTO turbos, Daw Flow max plus's, all the same turbos? Also would you recommend the speed tech bottom mount kit?

Th RB GFs are not the same as the VTT/DAW/CTS/Anyone else. If you want custom named turbos all you need to do is meet the MOQ of ~25 units and they will sand cast spoolstreet onto them if you want

I vote:
RB GFs if you want twins
Speedtech or CES($$$) for a bottom mount. The DR bottom mount manifold is cracking at the welds or so I have seen online so I would stay away.
ACF for a top mount if he even still makes the kits anymore? I don't like the DR top mount manifold or VIE etc.

 

[RuskiRacer]

Th RB GFs are not the same as the VTT/DAW/CTS/Anyone else. If you want custom named turbos all you need to do is meet the MOQ of ~25 units and they will sand cast spoolstreet onto them if you want

I vote:
RB GFs if you want twins
Speedtech or CES($$$) for a bottom mount. The DR bottom mount manifold is cracking at the welds or so I have seen online so I would stay away.
ACF for a top mount if he even still makes the kits anymore? I don't like the DR top mount manifold or VIE etc.

Yeah the doc race top mount fits really well and sounds really good but boost creep is probably the biggest issue I have with it.

 

[SlowE93]

What would be the power goal ?
Throwing names and turbos out there is kind of pointless unless we know what he intends to use the car for (dig runs, 1/4, 1/2 mile , frwy rolls ) and his budget for fueling, trans / clutch upgrades, traction, supporting mods.

 

[SlowE93]

Ramping boost up slowly can mean different things for different setups and different cars. Some do it to protect the 6at, some because of traction, some to preserve the bottom end of the motor. Some prefer a powerband that keeps feeling like it's building, instead of boom power then an anemic feeling up top. But limiting torque this way isn't like having a big single (some singles ramp in boost too btw...), a big single will lag and make little power down low whereas ramping in boost in a controlled manor gives you whatever power you want wherever you want it.

Here's a graph from Tony. He wanted me to ramp in boost so he could have traction on his slicks. Duty cycle hit peak at around 6500rpm. I don't think he was lacking much in torque and definitely not like having a single lol. Just a technique and generally the one performance cars employ universally (vs tractor pulls).

View attachment 56315


Let me see if I can find the max effort one with full duty through the entire gear lol... I hate seeing them since they're so useless but they are popular with vendors to sell things...

Thats still a ton of torque by 3k rpm.
How much torque can a built motor handle vs stock bottom end at that rpm ??

 

[SLOWESTN54]

VTT/DAW/CTS/Anyone else

Do you mean CTS as in CTS turbo?

What would be the power goal ?
Throwing names and turbos out there is kind of pointless unless we know what he intends to use the car for (dig runs, 1/4, 1/2 mile , frwy rolls ) and his budget for fueling, trans / clutch upgrades, traction, supporting mods.

Currently my setup was full bolt ons plus relocated inlets with a custom outlet to run 535i tubos in a 335i, Daw stage 2+ turbos. Fueling wise i run a PFS Overdrive kit with a Walbro 525. For a clutch i had just installed a X clutch organic twin disk as i don't intend to run digs. Rear end wise i have solid subframe bushings with new oem diff bushings. Suspension wise the cars just on Bilstein B8 shocks, stock springs, with M3 control arms. As for traction i've put a new set of Michelin PS4S's on my car this year as it Rains a lot here, plus i never had traction issues with them as long as i limited power in first.