Ways to test WinKFP before flashing so i dont brick a module

aus335iguy

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Nov 18, 2017
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Hi Folks,
Im about to flash my TCU again and i have a new coding laptop. The previous one was unreliable. Ive setup the new PC ...
INPA works, I can connect read etc . NCS works I can code etc...
I've coded and flashed a number of things in the past but i think im just getting gun shy in my old age.

Is there anyway to test the WinKFP flashing setup ? Perhaps i should just update a smaller module that i can live without ? I have a spare M3 GWS i might connect :)

Open to suggestions.
 

tony@codewerx

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Apr 1, 2017
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If INPA works - winkfp would be fine. Just make sure you got the appropriate zusb for the TCU.

ZF TCUs are straight forward. GM TCUs would need an icom for the signature.

Some kcan cables have firmware bugs.
 
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aus335iguy

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Thanks but per your last statement I cant afford a bug :)
So whats the cheapest easiest to replace module on an e8x or e9x ... One that will let me keep driving the car if dead ?
 

JohnDaviz

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If your cable works... What is your point? Replace a working cable with a new one where you have no experience with and I bricks.. but at least it was new.. and replaced a working one.. ;)
 
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aus335iguy

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I get your point John. It’s logical. It doesn’t address the feeling of doubt though which was my point. I’ve seen cables that were working for a period suddenly start bricking modules. I guess it stems from the fact that FTDI is constantly throwing out drivers that disable counterfeit chips without anyone knowing that it’s going to happen. I have no way of knowing if it’s counterfeit until I do. Schrodingers car lol
 

aus335iguy

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So @carabuser has suggested flashing the PDC. It wont stop the car from driving and if its bricked at about 170 AUD and locally available Ill give that a shot first. See how we go hey ?
:)
 
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carabuser

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I'd always recommend a bimmergeeks cable though. They are faster and much more stable than anything else out there.

I can flash everything with the BG cable without worrying at all. Other cables limit what you can flash and will brick certain TCU modules and pretty much anything on the MOST bus is at risk.
 

aus335iguy

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The danger when flashing MOST bus over OBD according to Brintech is that any one of the modules can go to sleep at anytime and that’s why there’s horror stories of bricked CICs and comboxes. You can mitigate against that by only having what you’re flashing as part of the ring. Apparently taking the outermost fibres on the block and joining them together helps a lot ... apparently
 

carabuser

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It's the protocol conversion logic on the cable that I've seen to blame for CIC bricks. All non BG cables have the same logic for DCAN transmission which contains errors. It works OK for most modules, just a little slow, but when you try to program the MSS60, MSS65, GKE191 or GKE211 it'll brick them. The BG cable fixes those errors so it works faster and doesn't brick those modules.

With MOST flashing people use an emulator which seems to work fine with the BG cables but there's a lot of threads out there of people bricking their CIC when using the normal ebay/amazon cables.
 

AzNdevil

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imo there are two things wrong with common amazon/ebay/cheap cables
a - they overheat and hang due to one of the chips drawing a lot of power, weather depedent of course...if this happens during a flash there is a high possibility it will brick the module
b - as other peeps mentioned, the firmware on them is old and somewhat buggy, personally i can code everything and have tested flashing pretty much everything except for ccc/cic cause it will take forever and i know they dont work with gm ecus

the bimmergeeks cable solves both issues at a price but if you are technically savy, just mod your cable with the below guide
https://github.com/uholeschak/ediabaslib

full disclosure: i do have an icom but i try to avoid using it unless absolutely necessary...
 
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tony@codewerx

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The danger when flashing MOST bus over OBD according to Brintech is that any one of the modules can go to sleep at anytime and that’s why there’s horror stories of bricked CICs and comboxes. You can mitigate against that by only having what you’re flashing as part of the ring. Apparently taking the outermost fibres on the block and joining them together helps a lot ... apparently

for most ... when a module on the ring powers down ... It bricks. Get a fiber optic gender adapter and connect the icom b directly to that module Instead of using the obd. careful to choose the right protocol.
 

aus335iguy

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Nov 18, 2017
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PDC flash worked
No going back now
 

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