E89 Urgent recommendation to replace the pink hardtop hydraulic relays

aus335iguy

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you'd need to add a diode on the output for an inductive load but two of these solid state relays will shit it in spec wise. Given they are only energised for as long as it takes to raise or lower the roof they might not even need a heatsink... Problem solved (for 100aud)
 
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RobbiZ4

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Well, I don't understand your 100aud solution.
You need a 3 pole toggle switch in each of the 2 relais to be able to switch the rotation of the pumps motor. The CTM changes the rotation already in one single cycle, not only between open and close.
 

RobbiZ4

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In between an electronic "fuse" has been developed by user @MiSt and was published in the German ZRoadser forum.
It has to be placed into the plus line between the 50A fuse and its branch to the 2 relays. With this solution, the currency supply stays interrupted as long as the CTM module is not active. Even if a relais would hang, the pump stays switched off.
I would like to see how that works out, depending on how it is packaged I may be interested in purchasing one if they ever came up for sale :)
31943

Protection of hydraulic pump against relay failure


Placed into the red plus line between the 50A fuse (placed in the red fuse block next to the battery) and the relay package.

The plus line to the pump will be connected only when one of the two relays get activated by the CTM. If the CTM stops its relay activity, the red wire will be cut as well by the BTS555.

Update:
I've placed the Google Translation link below the picture.
 
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aus335iguy

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My assumptions
  1. you have two 50A relays...
  2. one for forward and one for reverse.
  3. They are activated by a control unit,
  4. that control unit supplies the relays with 12v when that particular direction is required
  5. They are high current devices supplyig a hydraulic rig that opens and closes
  6. They over time degrade and the contacts fuse together and then drive the hydraulic pump to failure

Are any of my assumptions incorrect?
If not then then i think you buy two solid state relays, replace the ones that fail.
Maybe add a heat sink but for the current draw and time to open and close less than a minute it wont be big and might not be required at all. You will need a diode for the output as the motor is an inductive load
The solid state relays are exactly the same concept as the relays youre replacing without the moving parts degradation.
You dont need any toggle switch as they operate the same way as your relays
 
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RobbiZ4

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My assumptions
  1. you have two 50A relays...
  2. one for forward and one for reverse.
  3. They are activated by a control unit,
  4. that control unit supplies the relays with 12v when that particular direction is required
  5. They are high current devices supplyig a hydraulic rig that opens and closes
  6. They over time degrade and the contacts fuse together and then drive the hydraulic pump to failure

Are any of my assumptions incorrect?
If not then then i think you buy two solid state relays, replace the ones that fail.
Maybe add a heat sink but for the current draw and time to open and close less than a minute it wont be big and might not be required at all. You will need a diode for the output as the motor is an inductive load
The solid state relays are exactly the same concept as the relays youre replacing without the moving parts degradation.
You dont need any toggle switch as they operate the same way as your relays
2 is wrong
5 is wrong
Details in my first post, to be read at first.
 

aus335iguy

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Hi mate
Not sure if you’re being short with me because you’re annoyed or if it’s just how you express things.
I’ll ignore it as my experience has been that non native English speakers tend to do that and I’m more than ok with that as I come from a non English speaking backgro. If it’s the first case then please explain why you’re annoyed

I haven’t spent a lot of time reading up but essentially I’ve read through the first post more than a couple of times now and as far as I can tell the relays here are the issue and a solid state replacement is what this really needs.
Everything else isn’t really doing anything about the root cause.

If the relays are dual pole (one normally open and one normally closed) then that too can be addressed with a solid state solution.
 
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RobbiZ4

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That doesn't look too complicated. I'll have to read the other thread a bit more.
Hi guys, in between I've re-built this device as well and as of today, mounted in my E89. It works completely transparent.
More pictures can be found on page 2 in the already linked and translated thread.

20210122_124557_cpr.jpg
 
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RobbiZ4

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In Australia we get a letter from BMW every so often to remind us. It gets so annoying you don’t put it off anymore and you book it in just to make the spam stop
May I receive a copy of this BMW letter for my internal documentation? As attachment in this post or as PM?
I've never heard about such an info from BMW here in Germany.

Thanks
Robert
 
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aus335iguy

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May I receive a copy of this BMW letter for my internal documentation? As attachment in this post or as PM?
I've never heard about such an info from BMW here in Germany.

Thanks
Robert
I’ll see if I can dig one up. I only got them for my 335 which had airbags and heater wiring issues. Will that be ok ?
 

RobbiZ4

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I’ll see if I can dig one up. I only got them for my 335 which had airbags and heater wiring issues. Will that be ok ?
As we are talking here about the salmon relays, I assumed you were informed directly by mail from BMW to get it replaced.
That would be very interesting for me, not any wiper upgrades. ;)