E89 Urgent recommendation to replace the pink hardtop hydraulic relays

Romer

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Aug 8, 2018
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Thanks for this. I read the posts and watched the video. This is great advice on preventive maintenance . I ordered the relays on Amazon and will change them out in my 2011 when they come.

This is why forums are the best support service to car enthusiasts. I am the moderator on a Toyota Off Road forum and that is where most everyone figures out how to troubleshoot and repair their vehicles

I appreciate your contribution
 

RobbiZ4

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Jun 29, 2018
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I just had a call to the Baas office and was asked to send an email with further details to Mr. Baas. Let's wait on his response...
_ble2_small-jpg.jpg
I've got an email and a recall from Mr. Baas. This product was developed by his company, but will be distributed only in Germany because of the amount of custom papers for a single piece.
If somebody of you guys is willing to organize a bulk order of at minimum 20 pieces, he will send it directly into the states. Another option he mentioned is, to order it from CONRAD.COM:
https://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/840250/Mini-Blinkersummer-BAAS-BLE2?ref=searchDetail
 

aus335iguy

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Hi all
Im not familiar with any of this however i dont theink you NEED a three wire buzzer, You just need anything that can alert you to the fact that the pump i running after you’ve opened or closed the roof. If the main pump is a simple + and negative connection then a two wire 12v buzzer will do the job just fine.
If its a three wire circuit Two + and one - terminal (one circuit forward and one in reverse) then a two wire can still be used.
You can either
  • use a single buzzer on each + circuit OR
  • get two diodes and connect them to the two + legs on the motor. Then common the cathodes and feed one side of a 12v buzzer.
Or am i missing something here ?
 

RobbiZ4

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Hey aus335iguy,
your ideas are absolutely correct!
A 2-buzzer solution as well as a 1-buzzer solution-with-diodes will do the job. We discussed the diode-solution in the german forum as well, but I didn't want to lead s/o to play around with diodes in that area of the car. U have to care about a pretty good isolation, as the pump's wires are permanently connected to the battery.
The 2-buzzer solution is less riskier!
 

Romer

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Done. This was pretty easy. I found you could even tilt the module holding the relays so you can see better how to re-install

Thanks Robbie!

BTW- thinking that if the relays don't shut off the current on the motor would increase due to more work for the motor, why wouldn't an -in-line fuse work here. Of course you have to figure out the right fuse.
 
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aus335iguy

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Nov 18, 2017
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Hey aus335iguy,
your ideas are absolutely correct!
A 2-buzzer solution as well as a 1-buzzer solution-with-diodes will do the job. We discussed the diode-solution in the german forum as well, but I didn't want to lead s/o to play around with diodes in that area of the car. U have to care about a pretty good isolation, as the pump's wires are permanently connected to the battery.
The 2-buzzer solution is less riskier!
The diodes are likely how they make the three wire buzzer. You can put it into an incloser if you need to and only have the wires coming out.
 

aus335iguy

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Nov 18, 2017
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Done. This was pretty easy. I found you could even tilt the module holding the relays so you can see better how to re-install

Thanks Robbie!

BTW- thinking that if the relays don't shut off the current on the motor would increase due to more work for the motor, why wouldn't an -in-line fuse work here. Of course you have to figure out the right fuse.
I would recommend that regardless. There’d be a good reason why BMW deemed it unnecessary though i cant for the life of me think why.
 

RobbiZ4

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Done. This was pretty easy. I found you could even tilt the module holding the relays so you can see better how to re-install
U can press a black pin at the right and push the module completely off.

BTW- thinking that if the relays don't shut off the current on the motor would increase due to more work for the motor, why wouldn't an -in-line fuse work here. Of course you have to figure out the right fuse.
There is already a fuse in the line with 50A. At least you need a timer to swich off the pump after 1..3 minutes.
 

RobbiZ4

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In between an electronic "fuse" has been developed by user @MiSt and was published in the German ZRoadser forum.
It has to be placed into the plus line between the 50A fuse and its branch to the 2 relays. With this solution, the currency supply stays interrupted as long as the CTM module is not active. Even if a relais would hang, the pump stays switched off.
 
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jts1981

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Had a heart attack the other day when my roof was stuck trying to go dow . Thank God I found this thread and had my mhd cord to clear the codes to get the roof to work. O ordered the relays the same night and just threw them in today. You can see the damage for yourself, burn marks on the wires and housing.
 

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doublespaces

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So, outside of that electronic fuse which doesn't appear to have gone on sale there is no way to solve this problem, only delay the inevitable and also install a warning system?
 
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RobbiZ4

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In short: YES.

Replacing those 2 relays every 5 years is the cheapest way to avoid the damage of the pumps motor.
Everything else is more expensive and takes more effort. Those drivers we don't reach with our "relay replacing message", can't be helped either.

Interestingly, just yesterday I've ordered all the parts required to build two electronic fuses.
 
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doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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In short: YES.

Replacing those 2 relays every 5 years is the cheapest way to avoid the damage of the pumps motor.
Everything else is more expensive and takes more efford. Those drivers, which we don't reach with our "relay replacing message", can't be helped either.

Interestingly, just yesterday I've ordered all the parts required to build two electronic fuses.

I would like to see how that works out, depending on how it is packaged I may be interested in purchasing one if they ever came up for sale :)