Pure Turbos Stage 3 (PS3) dyno results for N55

[houtan]

Finally! I got on the dynojet at EAS in Anaheim, CA on 4/28/2022 to get some numbers on the PS3. It took a while, but I am happy I can finally share results with everyone.

Before I get into the details I wanted to mention a couple of things up front:

A big thanks to Pure Turbos for releasing another awesome product for the E series N55. I don’t think the product is posted on their website but if I get any information I will add it here.

Also a massive shoutout to my N55 tuning brothers, @JPuehl and @Stokes. Two of the most determined and persistent people I have met; a requirement if you are trying to self tune an E series N55. I think we have literally tested more than 500+ tunes between the three of us to figure out N55 tuning, and we are still testing till this day. Thanks fellas.

Overall Impressions, thoughts, etc.:

My car pulls like a freight train. I decided to upgrade from my PS2 because I was looking for a solution that made a little more power without breaking a sweat and was a little easier on the motor/drivetrain. For me, generating a massive amount of torque extremely early is pointless and puts a massive amount of unnecessary strain on the motor. At the same time, I wanted a faster car.

The PS3 was the perfect fit. Yes it spools slower than the PS2 when I am grabbing a log from 2,500, but that is expected. Even so, the tires still immediately light up from a standstill like the PS2. At a race RPM, the spool is awesome and I really enjoy the power delivery.

I will post logs below going wot at 4k, and you will see going from zero throttle to 18psi takes 700ish rpm, and to 24psi takes 1,000ish rpm. Loading up the motor a little bit or brake boosting shortens the time to get to boost even more.

Updated 4/25/2024: Been working on the tune and the old girl is picking up some speed. This is still full weight on street tires (Kumho v730): 100-200 dragy time of 5.36 seconds, 60-130mph of 6.18 seconds.

Here are the relevant details about my car/mods:
Car: 2011 135i, DCT
Turbo Setup: PS3 which has a GTX3582R ball bearing cartridge which should be good for 700whp (yes it’s big ). Turbosmart WG with 14lb spring. Turbosmart diverter.
Intercooler: VRSF race 1000hp intercooler
Intake: Injen
Exhaust: magnaflow 3.5" muffler, 2.5" to 3.5" y pipe resonator delete
Ignition: Delphi coilpacks, 97506 plugs gapped to .025
Fueling: PI spacer with 950cc injectors, AIC, Walboro 535 pump in PFS DIY bucket, E57 on dyno day
Boost control: GFB G Force III with the following settings; Duty Cycle 79, Gain 70, Sensitivity 35. Standard three port MAC solenoid.
Tuning: The tune I ran on the dyno is at 25psi, 9.5 degrees timing, 12.0 AFR. The tune was developed by @JPuehl, @Stokes, and myself via MHD.
Drivetrain: Stock DCT clutch pack with 60,000 miles, M2/3/4 flywheel, xHP stage 3 flash.

Dyno Results @25PSI (574.8WHP, 546.75 ft/lb STD; 561.01WHP, 533.60 ft/lb SAE):
Mission accomplished! Haha. I was really happy when I saw the results. The icing on the cake is the turbo literally isn’t even breaking a sweat. There is a ton more boost and power left in the turbo, but that is not for me at the moment so I stopped at the power you see here.

When I was building the overlay graphs to compare to my PS2, I noticed my PS2 dyno graph I shared a few years ago was using STD correction. I had no idea what that was so after some googling, I learned SAE is the more standard setting. I wanted to compare to my original graph so you are going to get a set comparing PS2 to PS3 using STD as well as SAE. I will also provide the PS3 graphs in both standards with RPM on the x axis (I can’t do RPM on the PS2 graphs because there was an issue with the RPM signal).

PS2 vs PS3 (STD)

PS3 by RPM (STD)

PS2 vs PS3 (SAE)

PS3 by RPM (SAE)

Dyno day video (please excuse my editing skills)

Logs:
Dyno: https://www.spoolstreet.com/graphs/ps3-dyno-4-28-2022-574whp.17256/?series=2,13&zoom=-1,122
18psi spool example: https://www.spoolstreet.com/graphs/ps3-spool-18psi-at-4k.17257/?series=0,1&zoom=-1,126
24psi spool example: https://www.spoolstreet.com/graphs/ps3-spool-24psi-at-4k.17258/?series=0,1&zoom=-1,109

Dragy times:

100-200kmh

60-130MPH

Ethanol content:

That is about all I have for now. Please let me know if I missed something or if you have any questions. I will of course update as I get more data, information, etc and thanks for reading!

UPDATE 28DEC2022

Was able to attend No Fly Zone in Gila Bend, AZ on December 18, 2022. Last time I went was a couple of years ago when I had my PS2 so I was pretty excited. The event wasn’t crowded so I was able to get in about 25 runs before noon! The temperatures were really cool, around 65 degrees, which was great for IATs but crap for traction. I stay around 14 psi for 1st, 2nd, and part of 3rd gear before hitting the scramble boost button to go to 23.5 psi, but I was hitting it much later due to traction.

Overall, car ran great, but I was running into some sort of torque limit issue I believe, because I was throwing misfire/ injector deactivation codes on cylinders 5 and 6 even though my logs were clean. So I ended up running about 23.5 psi of boost, which is about 3 psi short of what I can run. Having said that, I still had a blast and ran my personal best of 161.8 MPH which was a nice jump from my best of 150 MPH with the PS2. Here is a log of my 161.8 MPH run: Log-12-20-2022-06-19-16 | SpoolStreet Forums

 

[terryd5150]

Holding out hope for an F-series EWG version...

 

[houtan]

Holding out hope for an F-series EWG version...

I think your prayers will be answered. I am 99% sure the ewg version will come out at or close to the same time. Everything is the same, just different wg setup.

 

[SlowE93]

Finally! I got on the dynojet at EAS in Anaheim, CA on 4/28/2022 to get some numbers on the PS3. It took a while, but I am happy I can finally share results with everyone.

Before I get into the details I wanted to mention a couple of things up front:

A big thanks to Pure Turbos for releasing another awesome product for the E series N55. I don’t think the product is posted on their website but if I get any information I will add it here.

Also a massive shoutout to my N55 tuning brothers, @JPuehl and @Stokes. Two of the most determined and persistent people I have met; a requirement if you are trying to self tune an E series N55. I think we have literally tested more than 500+ tunes between the three of us to figure out N55 tuning, and we are still testing till this day. Thanks fellas.

Overall Impressions, thoughts, etc.:

My car pulls like a freight train. I decided to upgrade from my PS2 because I was looking for a solution that made a little more power without breaking a sweat and was a little easier on the motor/drivetrain. For me, generating a massive amount of torque extremely early is pointless and puts a massive amount of unnecessary strain on the motor. At the same time, I wanted a faster car.

The PS3 was the perfect fit. Yes it spools slower than the PS2 when I am grabbing a log from 2,500, but that is expected. Even so, the tires still immediately light up from a standstill like the PS2. At a race RPM, the spool is awesome and I really enjoy the power delivery.

I will post logs below going wot at 4k, and you will see going from zero throttle to 18psi takes 700ish rpm, and to 24psi takes 1,000ish rpm. Loading up the motor a little bit or brake boosting shortens the time to get to boost even more.

My current 100-200 dragy time of 6.05 seconds supports my car is decently quick. That was with less boost than the dyno run and some wheelspin so I know it will go into the 5s range. I will continue to update this thread if I get better verified times.

Here are the relevant details about my car/mods:
Car: 2011 135i, DCT
Turbo Setup: PS3 which has a GTX3582R ball bearing cartridge which should be good for 700whp (yes it’s big ). Turbosmart WG with 14lb spring. Turbosmart diverter.
Intercooler: VRSF race 1000hp intercooler
Intake: Injen
Exhaust: magnaflow 3.5" muffler, 2.5" to 3.5" y pipe resonator delete
Ignition: Delphi coilpacks, 97506 plugs gapped to .025
Fueling: PI spacer with 950cc injectors, AIC, Walboro 535 pump, E57 on dyno day
Boost control: GFB G Force III with the following settings; Duty Cycle 79, Gain 70, Sensitivity 35. Standard three port MAC solenoid.
Tuning: The tune I ran on the dyno is at 25psi, 9.5 degrees timing, 12.0 AFR. The tune was developed by @JPuehl, @Stokes, and myself via MHD.
Drivetrain: Stock DCT clutch pack with 60,000 miles, xHP stage 3 flash.

Dyno Results @25PSI (574.8WHP, 546.75 ft/lb STD; 561.01WHP, 533.60 ft/lb SAE):
Mission accomplished! Haha. I was really happy when I saw the results. The icing on the cake is the turbo literally isn’t even breaking a sweat. There is a ton more boost and power left in the turbo, but that is not for me at the moment so I stopped at the power you see here.

When I was building the overlay graphs to compare to my PS2, I noticed my PS2 dyno graph I shared a few years ago was using STD correction. I had no idea what that was so after some googling, I learned SAE is the more standard setting. I wanted to compare to my original graph so you are going to get a set comparing PS2 to PS3 using STD as well as SAE. I will also provide the PS3 graphs in both standards with RPM on the x axis (I can’t do RPM on the PS2 graphs because there was an issue with the RPM signal).

PS2 vs PS3 (STD)

View attachment 67413

PS3 by RPM (STD)

View attachment 67414

PS2 vs PS3 (SAE)

View attachment 67415

PS3 by RPM (SAE)

View attachment 67416

Dyno day video (please excuse my editing skills)

Logs:
(I will get these uploaded to SS, just didn’t get a chance, or if someone can help me please feel free to)
Dyno: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/ps3-dyno-4282022-574whp?log=0&data=3-14
18psi spool example: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/ps3-spool-18psi-4k?log=0&data=0-1
24psi spool example: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/ps3-spool-24psi-4k?log=0&data=0-1

Dragy time:

View attachment 67417

Ethanol content:

View attachment 67418

That is about all I have for now. Please let me know if I missed something or if you have any questions. I will of course update as I get more data, information, etc and thanks for reading!

This is where I go to dyno as well.
Nice dyno sheet. Pretty quick car !

 

[terryd5150]

I think your prayers will be answered. I am 99% sure the ewg version will come out at or close to the same time. Everything is the same, just different wg setup.

Also, really like the sound of that Magnaflow.

I was on the fence about doing one on my F32 - I'm not anymore. Lol.

 

[houtan]

Added a couple more dragy times to the op.

 

[CalvinNismo]

It looks like an awesome bit of kit @houtan! Quick times also! Have you got any photos of the turbo/manifold? Or maybe the engine bay looking down? Is it single scroll? Do you think RHD fitment could be possible?

 

[houtan]

It looks like an awesome bit of kit @houtan! Quick times also! Have you got any photos of the turbo/manifold? Or maybe the engine bay looking down? Is it single scroll? Do you think RHD fitment could be possible?

Thanks!

I don’t have any pictures or answers to your questions unfortunately. I believe pure posted some on instagram, but that was a while ago. Once I find out any additional information I will definitely post it here though.

 

[Alturiak]

Awesome results, and thanks for sharing @houtan ! I've been extremely excited for this turbo since Pure announced it back in January of last year, and I'm glad to see such great results. I know you stated it, but it looks like there is a good amount of room to get even more power out of that setup. Any idea on how much boost that turbo can push for those wanting to max it out?

Your dyno log looks great too btw. I found it interesting you tapering the timing from 14 degrees to around 8 degrees after boost is fully kicked in. Do you have any idea on how much timing you think you'd be able to run on that setup?

 

[houtan]

Thanks @Alturiak. I have no idea how much max PSI the turbo can run unfortunately. But from what I understand, the turbo should be good for around 700whp, so that seems to be the most relevant spec for prospective buyers. In other words, I care more about the HP potential than what boost it will hit to get to that HP. Does that make sense?

My professional online tuning training (aka google) pointed me into the direction of the timing curve looking like a "tub". So yeah, timing starts high and drops during spool up to 5.5 degrees, then starts to slowly ramp back up. I have experimented with up to 13.5 degrees timing with this turbo and the logs were perfection. Having said that, I settled on 9.5 degrees max timing to leave some headroom on the motor and since the power was in line with where I wanted to be, I left it there. If I want more power, I have two easy options, more boost, or more timing. I am sure I will increase both haha, but just want to enjoy the car for a while first. Hopefully that helps.

 

[Twisted Tuning]

nice, i actually forgot they were making the PS3.

 

[235*4*ME]

Finally! I got on the dynojet at EAS in Anaheim, CA on 4/28/2022 to get some numbers on the PS3. It took a while, but I am happy I can finally share results with everyone.

Before I get into the details I wanted to mention a couple of things up front:

A big thanks to Pure Turbos for releasing another awesome product for the E series N55. I don’t think the product is posted on their website but if I get any information I will add it here.

Also a massive shoutout to my N55 tuning brothers, @JPuehl and @Stokes. Two of the most determined and persistent people I have met; a requirement if you are trying to self tune an E series N55. I think we have literally tested more than 500+ tunes between the three of us to figure out N55 tuning, and we are still testing till this day. Thanks fellas.

Overall Impressions, thoughts, etc.:

My car pulls like a freight train. I decided to upgrade from my PS2 because I was looking for a solution that made a little more power without breaking a sweat and was a little easier on the motor/drivetrain. For me, generating a massive amount of torque extremely early is pointless and puts a massive amount of unnecessary strain on the motor. At the same time, I wanted a faster car.

The PS3 was the perfect fit. Yes it spools slower than the PS2 when I am grabbing a log from 2,500, but that is expected. Even so, the tires still immediately light up from a standstill like the PS2. At a race RPM, the spool is awesome and I really enjoy the power delivery.

I will post logs below going wot at 4k, and you will see going from zero throttle to 18psi takes 700ish rpm, and to 24psi takes 1,000ish rpm. Loading up the motor a little bit or brake boosting shortens the time to get to boost even more.

My current 100-200 dragy time of 6.05 seconds, 60-130mph of 7.1 seconds, supports my car is decently quick. That was with less boost than the dyno run and some wheelspin so I know it will go into the 5s range. I will continue to update this thread if I get better verified times.

Here are the relevant details about my car/mods:
Car: 2011 135i, DCT
Turbo Setup: PS3 which has a GTX3582R ball bearing cartridge which should be good for 700whp (yes it’s big ). Turbosmart WG with 14lb spring. Turbosmart diverter.
Intercooler: VRSF race 1000hp intercooler
Intake: Injen
Exhaust: magnaflow 3.5" muffler, 2.5" to 3.5" y pipe resonator delete
Ignition: Delphi coilpacks, 97506 plugs gapped to .025
Fueling: PI spacer with 950cc injectors, AIC, Walboro 535 pump, E57 on dyno day
Boost control: GFB G Force III with the following settings; Duty Cycle 79, Gain 70, Sensitivity 35. Standard three port MAC solenoid.
Tuning: The tune I ran on the dyno is at 25psi, 9.5 degrees timing, 12.0 AFR. The tune was developed by @JPuehl, @Stokes, and myself via MHD.
Drivetrain: Stock DCT clutch pack with 60,000 miles, M2/3/4 flywheel, xHP stage 3 flash.

Dyno Results @25PSI (574.8WHP, 546.75 ft/lb STD; 561.01WHP, 533.60 ft/lb SAE):
Mission accomplished! Haha. I was really happy when I saw the results. The icing on the cake is the turbo literally isn’t even breaking a sweat. There is a ton more boost and power left in the turbo, but that is not for me at the moment so I stopped at the power you see here.

When I was building the overlay graphs to compare to my PS2, I noticed my PS2 dyno graph I shared a few years ago was using STD correction. I had no idea what that was so after some googling, I learned SAE is the more standard setting. I wanted to compare to my original graph so you are going to get a set comparing PS2 to PS3 using STD as well as SAE. I will also provide the PS3 graphs in both standards with RPM on the x axis (I can’t do RPM on the PS2 graphs because there was an issue with the RPM signal).

PS2 vs PS3 (STD)

Glad I found this forum by luck lol. It's awesome to see Pure still supporting N55 builds. As an owner myself, I find your detailed experience very insightful . Good to see there are local facilities for dyno as well. I'm sure your car is a total beast at this point! Thanks

 

[azshantris]

I JUST ordered a tune, fuel pump, and GForce 3, waiting on emails back before finalizing my turbo kit selection. Of course there's finally this from Pure. I remember they teased the pure800 January 2021 and it went ghost since. Depending how quick they make a release I may go with them. I'm planning to go external wastegate (hence the gforce 3) and honestly the power point you hit is like my ideal. Excepty acces to e85 pretty much doesnt exist so I'll just be seeing what I can stretch for on 92oct . It's definitely overkill for a daily, but shouldn't cars be fun? I'm so happy seeing this, being an almost identical setup to what I have/want to have.
I'm going on a long work trip so if I order everything in the next month it should all be here when I get back in a few

 

[terryd5150]

I wonder what a PS2-size turbine and compressor would do with that manifold.

The 35xx seems a little laggy, like a top end-only specialty....

 

[terryd5150]

I JUST ordered a tune, fuel pump, and GForce 3, waiting on emails back before finalizing my turbo kit selection. Of course there's finally this from Pure. I remember they teased the pure800 January 2021 and it went ghost since. Depending how quick they make a release I may go with them. I'm planning to go external wastegate (hence the gforce 3) and honestly the power point you hit is like my ideal. Excepty acces to e85 pretty much doesnt exist so I'll just be seeing what I can stretch for on 92oct . It's definitely overkill for a daily, but shouldn't cars be fun? I'm so happy seeing this, being an almost identical setup to what I have/want to have.
I'm going on a long work trip so if I order everything in the next month it should all be here when I get back in a few

Can you point me in the direction of how to wire a G-Force into the DME - or whatever the hell the G-Force is "talking to" to control boost.

I'm clueless on that one and I can't find any info on how to tie a boost controller into the signal path.

Tons of diagrams on wiring the mac solenoid but nothing on the boost controller.....

 

[azshantris]

Sorry bud, haven't actually gotten that far so I haven't a clue

Can you point me in the direction of how to wire a G-Force into the DME - or whatever the hell the G-Force is "talking to" to control boost.

I'm clueless on that one and I can't find any info on how to tie a boost controller into the signal path.

Tons of diagrams on wiring the mac solenoid but nothing on the boost controller.....

 

[houtan]

I wonder what a PS2-size turbine and compressor would do with that manifold.

The 35xx seems a little laggy, like a top end-only specialty....

The PS2 is such a great turbo and is a great option for the N55. Not sure if it would gain any power with the cast manifold but it would be cool to see!

Having said that, the PS2 can’t touch a PS3 on a street, strip, or track driven car. The Dyno is a great tool to show performance gains, but the dragy shows real world performance. Both leave my opinion out of it and prove the performance gains over a PS2. No doubt the PS2 will spool faster in certain situations, but if you are in the right gear, the spool time of the PS3 is quick.

I know the PS2 on full tilt (25psi) can put down maybe 510-520whp and have yet to see one go 6.05 100-200k (I know I am in the 5s range now btw, I have a few runs that were faster but came up short on 200k). I think the fastest I have seen is 6.7s for a PS2, which is still movin.

As of right now, my car is even faster from when I dynod. I noticed my AFRs were a little off target after reviewing my dyno logs (they were leaner than target) so I have been working on getting that dialed in. With the richer AFR she’s picked up some more power which is awesome.

Ultimately, the PS3 right now is just cruising and much much faster. Both are great options in my experience, but the results make it clear the PS3 is the faster car.

Hopefully that helps.
_________________

 

[houtan]

I JUST ordered a tune, fuel pump, and GForce 3, waiting on emails back before finalizing my turbo kit selection. Of course there's finally this from Pure. I remember they teased the pure800 January 2021 and it went ghost since. Depending how quick they make a release I may go with them. I'm planning to go external wastegate (hence the gforce 3) and honestly the power point you hit is like my ideal. Excepty acces to e85 pretty much doesnt exist so I'll just be seeing what I can stretch for on 92oct . It's definitely overkill for a daily, but shouldn't cars be fun? I'm so happy seeing this, being an almost identical setup to what I have/want to have.
I'm going on a long work trip so if I order everything in the next month it should all be here when I get back in a few

Awesome, looking forward to hearing what you go with. Who did you order a tune from?

Can you point me in the direction of how to wire a G-Force into the DME - or whatever the hell the G-Force is "talking to" to control boost.

I'm clueless on that one and I can't find any info on how to tie a boost controller into the signal path.

Tons of diagrams on wiring the mac solenoid but nothing on the boost controller.....

So the G-Force does not interact with the DME. The stock internal WG is controlled via vacuum. The PS3 still has an internal WG, however it is pressure based (not sure if that is the correct name, but the key is it works with boost pressure). So the G Force gets plumbed between the WG, a three port MAC solenoid, and boost source. The stock boost solenoid is still connected to the harness, it is just not plumbed to anything and does nothing since the MAC solenoid will be controlling boost through the G Force. You leave it plugged in so you dong get a CEL. I capped off the vacuum nipples coming off the valve cover and the two on the boost solenoid.

My G Force is not even installed correctly. For the boost read out, it should be plumbed to a location that sees boost and vacuum. On the N55, that main location for that is the intake manifold, after the throttle body. I still have the stock manifold, so my boost source and WG control source is coming off of the Charge Pipe bung. It works fine overall, but the boost control takes a little longer to realize I am no longer WOT because it never sees vacuum.

To control boost, you set the WGDC in the controller, grab a WOT run, see what PSI that WGDC equals, and make adjustments from there. You can also control spool up and staying on boost target to a certain extent. Googling the G Force 3 instruction manual and reviewing that will do a much better job than i can in explaining the functions.

The other key is you need a tune that will support the range of boost levels you would like to run. Currently, i have 18, 21, 24, 25 PSI settings saved in my G Force, and i can pick any of them on the fly, at any time. But the tune needs to be set up to handle the various fuel, timing, etc, scenarios. I usually drive around town at 18 psi, and if i need extra power, i hit the scramble boost button (What i call the Street Outlaws button haha) and i am at 25 PSI for 30 seconds. It works great. I will switch to the reflex at some point since it can control the MAC solenoid and PI, but for now this meets my needs and is relatively cheap.

Hopefully that helps. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

 

[terryd5150]

Awesome, looking forward to hearing what you go with. Who did you order a tune from?


So the G-Force does not interact with the DME. The stock internal WG is controlled via vacuum. The PS3 still has an internal WG, however it is pressure based (not sure if that is the correct name, but the key is it works with boost pressure). So the G Force gets plumbed between the WG, a three port MAC solenoid, and boost source. The stock boost solenoid is still connected to the harness, it is just not plumbed to anything and does nothing since the MAC solenoid will be controlling boost through the G Force. You leave it plugged in so you dong get a CEL. I capped off the vacuum nipples coming off the valve cover and the two on the boost solenoid.

My G Force is not even installed correctly. For the boost read out, it should be plumbed to a location that sees boost and vacuum. On the N55, that main location for that is the intake manifold, after the throttle body. I still have the stock manifold, so my boost source and WG control source is coming off of the Charge Pipe bung. It works fine overall, but the boost control takes a little longer to realize I am no longer WOT because it never sees vacuum.

To control boost, you set the WGDC in the controller, grab a WOT run, see what PSI that WGDC equals, and make adjustments from there. You can also control spool up and staying on boost target to a certain extent. Googling the G Force 3 instruction manual and reviewing that will do a much better job than i can in explaining the functions.

The other key is you need a tune that will support the range of boost levels you would like to run. Currently, i have 18, 21, 24, 25 PSI settings saved in my G Force, and i can pick any of them on the fly, at any time. But the tune needs to be set up to handle the various fuel, timing, etc, scenarios. I usually drive around town at 18 psi, and if i need extra power, i hit the scramble boost button (What i call the Street Outlaws button haha) and i am at 25 PSI for 30 seconds. It works great. I will switch to the reflex at some point since it can control the MAC solenoid and PI, but for now this meets my needs and is relatively cheap.

Hopefully that helps. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Yes, herein lies my problem: I'm EWG.

Something electronic still has to tell the EWG to do "anything", it's not mechanical/pnuematic like a PWG.

 

[terryd5150]

The PS2 is such a great turbo and is a great option for the N55. Not sure if it would gain any power with the cast manifold but it would be cool to see!

Having said that, the PS2 can’t touch a PS3 on a street, strip, or track driven car. The Dyno is a great tool to show performance gains, but the dragy shows real world performance. Both leave my opinion out of it and prove the performance gains over a PS2. No doubt the PS2 will spool faster in certain situations, but if you are in the right gear, the spool time of the PS3 is quick.

I know the PS2 on full tilt (25psi) can put down maybe 510-520whp and have yet to see one go 6.05 100-200k (I know I am in the 5s range now btw, I have a few runs that were faster but came up short on 200k). I think the fastest I have seen is 6.7s for a PS2, which is still movin.

As of right now, my car is even faster from when I dynod. I noticed my AFRs were a little off target after reviewing my dyno logs (they were leaner than target) so I have been working on getting that dialed in. With the richer AFR she’s picked up some more power which is awesome.

Ultimately, the PS3 right now is just cruising and much much faster. Both are great options in my experience, but the results make it clear the PS3 is the faster car.

Hopefully that helps.
_________________

I have absolutely no doubt that the PS3 is a more powerful turbo.

However, I'm not building a track/drag monster, I'm building a hot street car.

For that, I still need a turbo that can spool before 3000 rpm.

You're right, generally the PS2 is a good option for that.

However, the downside of a PS2 is the back pressure it generates once it starts to get to 500-525-ish whp (due to the stock manifold).

A better flowing manifold would fix that, hence my comment.

Ideally, I'd love to do a real Garrett 3076; although, I'm EWG and can't figure out how to wire a boost controller into the signal path (my other comments), so pulling the trigger on a Speedtech doesn't do me any good right now either.

Regardless, thanks for the conversation - really appreciate the input!