Ad: Product Release - VTT Billet Vacuum Relief Valve

Sausage

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Jul 12, 2022
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"By drilling the cap you made it an open system which does not seal under boost, the whole idea of the valve is for it to be closed when no
vacuum is present and basically your high side is not working properly anymore."
There is never a seal under boost. In a stock system, the flapper valve opens. In my case, a checkvalve opens and vents to atmosphere.

"You are also allowing for the motor to suck moisture in when its not running as its now open to the elements."
Just like the stock flapper you mean?
I did the measurements and you do the same when cutting the spring. The white plunger barely has a mm of pre-load. Taking anything off the spring will cause the plunger to no longer seal and possibly no longer sit straight on the spring. I would never cut the spring.

"You will also get oil coming out of the valve under high boost leaking on your rocker cover and belts."
No troubles with this so far. The high side VTA releases pressure.

"For the high side valve to fully open it needs a closed system to push it open by building pressure in the system from blowby and the rear turbo applying suction on it to help open, by you running an open system you greatly reduced this capability and the pressure will escape at the path of least resistence which you made by drilling these two holes."
My high side valve cracking pressure is somewhere around 0.1 psi and thus will open easily. Also, I am single turbo.
In a stock system, the rear turbo's suction effect is of no significance of opening the flapper valve compared to the vacuum/pressure in the crank case.
And yes it will escape at the path of least resistance, which is my 10AN high side vent.

Either way this valve needs to go. It does not work for our engine wether you drill a hole or cut the spring. I'm still looking for an alternative.
 

Sausage

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Jul 12, 2022
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Oh stop bieng so melodramatic.

Jegs have some options on thier website which seem to be better adjustable. I'll look into them later.
Pulling in moisure is a valid point but all of them seem to do this (also stock system)
The core of the problem is that the spring inside the VTT is just too stiff and we need a softer one. Will also look into this.

 

martymil

Major General
Sep 6, 2017
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Its not to stiff, its to long for a purpose so you can trim it to desired lenght but if you go to far you can shim it back up.

The others are same shit in different packaging, they are all made to control a lot more vacuum the bmw needs that's why the vtt one is so easy to use when you actually do it right.
 

E82_jester

Lurker
Jun 18, 2023
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Minneapolis
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2009 135i 6-speed
I run mine like this but you can also run one of the valve cover if you like.

I made mine this way so I can run it on a stock valve cover for my customers.
I know it’s been a long time since this post but I’m running this same setup on a stock valve cover but I’m looking for an adapter like this. I saw you mentions “for my customers” I would love to purchase one from you if you’re still selling them?
 

martymil

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Sep 6, 2017
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I'm never sold them as they are to expensive to make, to make them cheaper in China you would have to make like at least 500 which I would.never be able to sell.

I'll see what I can do on the weekend as I haven't done one for a few months and check pricing.

I don't make a single dollar on these of how expensive the are to make.last time it was around 100 usd or so
 

E82_jester

Lurker
Jun 18, 2023
10
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Minneapolis
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2009 135i 6-speed
I'm never sold them as they are to expensive to make, to make them cheaper in China you would have to make like at least 500 which I would.never be able to sell.

I'll see what I can do on the weekend as I haven't done one for a few months and check pricing.

I don't make a single dollar on these of how expensive the are to make.last time it was around 100 usd or so
I appreciate the fast response turns out a company near me said they could possibly custom fab one for me.

On the other hand I’d like your two cents on how I have it routed at the moment. I have a hose coming off my high side to the catch can no flapper valve or check valve in line with it and then it vta

My low side goes from the pcv delete to the catch my other catch can then exits to the throttle body with a check valve online with it

High side> catch can> vta
Low side > catch can> check valve> throttle body

Should I add a check valve to the high side hose since I don’t have oem flapper and a vacuum relief valve for the front head plug where you put yours?

What corrections should I make to avoid as many problems as possible when I finish the system up?
 

martymil

Major General
Sep 6, 2017
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I appreciate the fast response turns out a company near me said they could possibly custom fab one for me.

On the other hand I’d like your two cents on how I have it routed at the moment. I have a hose coming off my high side to the catch can no flapper valve or check valve in line with it and then it vta

My low side goes from the pcv delete to the catch my other catch can then exits to the throttle body with a check valve online with it

High side> catch can> vta
Low side > catch can> check valve> throttle body

Should I add a check valve to the high side hose since I don’t have oem flapper and a vacuum relief valve for the front head plug where you put yours?

What corrections should I make to avoid as many problems as possible when I finish the system up?
you will need a flapper valve on the high side but not before adding the vacuum relief valve.

Or run the stock flapper valve and no vacuum relief valve needed.
 

E82_jester

Lurker
Jun 18, 2023
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Minneapolis
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2009 135i 6-speed
you will need a flapper valve on the high side but not before adding the vacuum relief valve.

Or run the stock flapper valve and no vacuum relief valve needed.
So run something like this on the high side and the vacuum relief valve off the front and I should be fine?
 

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martymil

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Sep 6, 2017
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You can't really run vta on the high side as when its plumed back into the rear intake it helps with scavenging of the gasses from the engine.

That's how it suppose to be set up to run properly, there is no performance gain to running VTA.

If you want to run vta then disconnect the Throttle body and the rocker cover running to both catch cans and not plumbed back at all.

The whole point of running vacuum relief valve and a closed system is to help with ring seal.
 

E82_jester

Lurker
Jun 18, 2023
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Minneapolis
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2009 135i 6-speed
as I dont know how this valve works or how much pressure it takes to open I can't recommend it
I’ll route the high side to the rear inlet today so i Can keep my low side in place in that case what would you recommend I put in the high side to rectify the flapper valve situation what did you run in yours?
 

martymil

Major General
Sep 6, 2017
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To make it simple run the stock flapper and not worry about the vacuum relief valve as it can get tricky to setup it up.
 

E82_jester

Lurker
Jun 18, 2023
10
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0
Minneapolis
Ride
2009 135i 6-speed
To make it simple run the stock flapper and not worry about the vacuum relief valve as it can get tricky to setup it up.
To clarify I should run the oem flapper off the valve cover to the catch can or should I put it between the catch can and rear inlet
 

E82_jester

Lurker
Jun 18, 2023
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Minneapolis
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2009 135i 6-speed
off the valve cover
Edit:
I finished my external pcv system about two weeks ago now. After I got the car started I did get the 2D2E throttle intake vacuum code, however no squealing of the seals. I did have a little weird throttle response after I cleared the code the first time. I reflashed the car with MHD and reset throttle adaptations. Since then I haven’t seen the code and the car runs great no squealing, smoke, or drive ability issues. Should I worry about that code or am I good since it hasn’t come back?