Ad: Product Release - VTT Billet Vacuum Relief Valve

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Happy to announce the release of the VTT Billet Vacuum relief.

This is one of many product releases we will be rolling out in the next couple weeks. People asked for it, so we finally made it after having drawings done over a year ago.

Retail price is $89.00 we will be doing an intro price of $79.00 for a week.
Direct link here: http://performance.vargasturbo.com/ecommerce/index.php?route=product/product&path=65&product_id=135

This valve allows you to dial in your crankcase vacuum to the precise level you choose. No more wondering if you have too much or too little vacuum in your crankcase. With this valve simply add or remove shims to get the desired vacuum level.
The valve is designed with -10ORB threads to be a DIRECT screw int to any of our modular PCV solutions and our Modular CNC Valve covers. Simply screw into an open port, and you can seal your system with no fear of pulling too much vacuum through the system.

Adjusting Vacuum:
There are 5 vacuum settings using the supplied shims.

• 4 shims used the valve will open at 18" of vacuum
• 3 shims used the valve will open at 16" of vacuum
• 2 shims used the valve will open at 14" of vacuum
• 1 shim used the valve will open at 12" of vacuum
• 0 shims used the valve will open at 10" of vacuum

Note: For the BMW N54 we suggest anywhere from 10-14" of vacuum going higher can cause whistling, and pulling vacuum past the engine seals.

As always any questions Sales or Chris @vargasturbo.com

Chris

 

[martymil]

So basically this will stop the need for the factory flapper valve and you can use an aftermarket fully sealed flapper valve with greater control over the vacuum inside the engine ?

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

So basically this will stop the need for the factory flapper valve and you can use an aftermarket fully sealed flapper valve with greater control over the vacuum inside the engine ?

The factory flapper is really really poor check valve and should be replaced anytime you are doing work on the PCV system. If you want to run a fully sealed system you would replace the factory flapper with a real check valve on the high side to go along with the check valve on the low side. This not a check valve itself. All this is going to do is allow you to run a fully sealed system and not supply too much vacuum to the crankcase which can cause oil starvation if it's extreme etc. It's simply a controlled vacuum leak for the crankcase.

 

[doublespaces]

Just so I have this right, the high side would have a traditional, fully closed check valve AND this? So for anyone not using your valve cover, they would actually need to insert a T or Y with one end going to this and the other end going to the check valve/catch can. Is this accurate?

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Just so I have this right, the high side would have a traditional, fully closed check valve AND this? So for anyone not using your valve cover, they would actually need to insert a T or Y with one end going to this and the other end going to the check valve/catch can. Is this accurate?

You are over complicating it. It's dead simple. This is nothing more than a metered vacuum leak. Without it if you put full manifold vacuum at idle to a sealed crankcase you will get immediate squealing sound, and as you have too much vacuum. If you install a real vacuum pump that can pull vacuum through out the rev range then this is even more of a necessity as you can pull oil away from bearing surfaces etc. Seal your crankcase with a vacuum source be it manifold vacuum, vacuum pump etc, and plumb this in anywhere with the shim stack required to keep vacuum where you want it, and it wont go above that. Simple. We expect to sell about 3 of these. Lol

 

[martymil]

Its basically does the same thing as the factory flapper but much more precise control over the vacuum so you can run a proper quality closed flapper valve, am I correct ?

 

[doublespaces]

Its basically does the same thing as the factory flapper but much more precise control over the vacuum so you can run a proper quality closed flapper valve, am I correct ?

This is what I was trying to get at, did what I said make sense?

Only difference is this is not an outlet afaik which is why I said Y or T to a occ that is presumably free flowing or pulling vacuum in some way.

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Its basically does the same thing as the factory flapper but much more precise control over the vacuum so you can run a proper quality closed flapper valve, am I correct ?

Kinda, the flapper is supposed to be a check valve. They vacuum relief on these is built into the cyclonic system. So when you go external on high, and low up until now, you could not go fully sealed as it would introduce too much vacuum into the system. Even we were not running fully sealed, we had the high side open after the can for the metered leak, but we could not adjust it, it was just providing as much vacuum as it could with the open high side. This will allow us to run 10-14" which is about right for a high performance motor. Keep in mind this will only be at idle unless you run a large vacuum pump to keep vacuum constant to redline like Tony has on our upcoming drag car.

 

[fmorelli]

I know I don't get it, and I'm ok being a mere ignoramus, with the other 99%, and say I'm not smart enough:

1. Where exactly is this integrated into a PCV system?
2. You mention it hooks right up to a VTT PCV system. I'll assume it works with other setups, correct? Anything we non-VTT PCV guys need to know?
3. Does anything get removed from a typical system? Anything else added beyond this relief valve?
4. On consideration of whether "this is for me", What constitutes a "sealed" PCV system versus not sealed?

Thanks! Filippo

p.s. @doublespaces, "As I understand it .... " was my favorite phrase of the week

 

[The Convert]

For everyone that is having a hard time understanding this, I’ll break it down very simply. This is a blow off valve for vacuum.

This would attach to a hole in your valve cover and eliminate the need to worry about the intake manifold pulling too much vacuum through your low load side, or high load side. You could eliminate any metering device on both the low and high sides and just run check valves on each.

So, let’s say you start pulling a ton of vacuum on your low load side because you took the metering orifice out because, well, you’re an idiot. You would pull vacuum on the crankcase to the point of pulling air through the gaskets and seals. Now add a valve on your crankcase that pops open and allows atmosphere to rush into the crankcase, like a bov, so that you are not physically able to pull more vacuum on the crankcase beyond what the vacuum relief valve is set to open at.

Make sense?

 

[martymil]

Its basically the same as the hole in the flapper valve but adjustable

 

[BOosted 335i]

every car pulls vacuum little differently,so what would be the correct vacuum to adjust to,twins or single turbo matter?

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

every car pulls vacuum little differently,so what would be the correct vacuum to adjust to,twins or single turbo matter?

This gets rid of that problem. Run this, and your car pulls exactly the same vacuum no matter what

 

[doublespaces]

Its basically the same as the hole in the flapper valve but adjustable

Except it only functions by relieving vacuum, where as the flapper can do both. The crank case pressure during on-boost situations still needs to be relieved so you'd need another line going to a check valve or vacuum pump so crank case pressure can escape. If I have misunderstood and this relieves vacuum and pressure somehow, then feel free to say so.

 

[The Convert]

Except it only functions by relieving vacuum, where as the flapper can do both. The crank case pressure during on-boost situations still needs to be relieved so you'd need another line going to a check valve or vacuum pump so crank case pressure can escape. If I have misunderstood and this relieves vacuum and pressure somehow, then feel free to say so.

It only opens when too much vacuum is pulled. If you ran both sides open to atmosphere with no flapper/check valves, you would not use this. If you had a vacuum pump, you would only have one line to it...no low and high sides, and then you would want this for sure. These are used all over Motorsport and not a new concept at all.

 

[martymil]

As I said in my original post you run a fully sealed flapper with no hole and this valve plus your original vacuum setup like rob's.

very simple

 

[doublespaces]

It only opens when too much vacuum is pulled.

Yes, I understand.

If you ran both sides open to atmosphere with no flapper/check valves, you would not use this. If you had a vacuum pump, you would only have one line to it...no low and high sides, and then you would want this for sure. These are used all over Motorsport and not a new concept at all.

Right, I get that. I'm speaking about it's usage in our current dual catch can scenario as a method to delete the flapper.

As I said in my original post you run a fully sealed flapper with no hole and this valve plus your original vacuum setup like rob's.

Can you show me what a fully sealed flapper is if it isn't a check valve as I stated? I'd like to see a true (and reliable) 0 cracking pressure 'flapper' aka swing valve. The vibrant check valve I use on the low side between my manifold and the can has a 1 psi cracking pressure I think. (And yes, dear lord. I know that isn't the check valve you are referring to, that isn't the question just a comment)

Its kind of funny, as I've asked a very simple question and nobody can confirm it, only re-explain it in a different way but at this point the question is already answered.

 

[martymil]

Quick diagram

 

[doublespaces]

Quick diagram

Right, and as I had asked in my very first post, for people without the VTT valve cover, we would need to run a T or a Y as there would be a one way check valve AND this thing. Good lord.

 

[martymil]

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