Port Injection 2020

doublespaces

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I allow around 4 to 5hrs depending on the complexity.

Really depends on the intake and how much stuff I got to move out of the way.

I only ask, because it isn't an enjoyable DIY even for someone handy. I suspect its bearable with experience and a proper shop. But thinking about this decision beyond the functionality, true cost of installation it is undoubtly a factor in someone's purchase decision. You can install the helix in the amount of time it takes to remove the hpfp and put it back on and cost nothing.

With that said, currently I have my EOS manifold hooked up with 72# injectors and an AIC, will be testing it soon. Since I already had the manifold, I didn't need both and with the MHD coil cut feature, PI seems to be just as good as any other method these days if you don't mind installing the extra hardware. Trying to get the AIC hooked up in the DME box 'CLEANLY' requires drilling holes in the ecu box, rubber grommets and some thinking. I'm currently finishing that up, I am not a fan of simply pinching the harness under the cover.
 

doublespaces

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Its quite easy actually once you know what your doing, the first time there is a bit of tool throwing and lots of unsavoury words being thrown about.

I edited my comment to mention basically this. Once you know what you're doing its fine but that means a potential customer would not be doing the install, they would be paying 4-5 labor hours on top of the product.

If anyone wants to get an idea of what the Shotgun install looks like: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/vtt-double-shotgun-installation.2998/

Also, I had some issues with it however VTT did take care of it and for that I'm grateful the only reason I switched to the helix was because I was throwing my hands up in the air as nobody understood the vcv tables at the time. Everyone went around stating something was wrong with my hpfp (I owned four HPFPs at one point, let me know if you want to buy one) and it wasn't. It was the tables, so the product as it was given to me didn't actually work and I wasted basically a bunch of money and time fighting a problem that didn't exist with my car. The helix was the same, it didn't work either until the tables came out.

However regarding the install, the reason you hear about people doing the install wrong is because its quite involved and its all a pain in the ass to do, so its more likely someone from home will actually do it wrong resulting in a broken bracket or something else. I recommend an experienced installer. When I think about it, its not quite this bad but its approaching the, "If I had any other choice I'd stop and put it back". This isn't a problem with the VTT product design, they just designed something that is inherently hard to install because of the required location. So yes, that has to go into the decision there.

With that said, the product must perform, I do agree and understand. And as it relates to PI, I think PI has proven itself to be safe aside for the increased potential for fuel leaks as you have more hardware. You could also have failed injector issues, but I think we are starting to split hairs here. PI seems to be a safe medium between price/safety/installation effort/performance.
 
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martymil

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There is only one problem with pi and thats when running your car with traction control on, the ecu is trying to pull fuel out the the pi is still spraying.

With full traction off its not a problem when tuned right.

Try driving a car in the rain running pi and traction control on, its not pleasant.
 
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doublespaces

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The only reason the double barrel fails is due to install error and lack of experience installing these kits.

I had kits installed by other qualified local and interstate shops and they have been running without issues.

Also to be fair, I had another problem down the road which I was completely honest with them about what happened. All signs pointed at me and they still took care of it for me so good on them for that, because they probably didn't need to.
 

fmorelli

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The few people I've spoken to, including pro BMW shop owners, have indicated that bracketed Helix cars they've had in are vibrating like a mofo. I can't go there. On the Z4 ... how many people running the VTT solution? I've heard somewhere between it works on the Z4 to you need to make mods to it doesn't work. I'm aware of failed brackets installed by competent pros but I suspect those were early versions.

I've been on the DI only bus for two years. I have a full S55 setup I bought, modified for N54, sitting on my bench. I've machined prototype fuel distribution blocks for some of the test mule work that has gone on with that project. All to say, I'm not just a passerby that wants DI only.

And all that said ... PI at the moment is on the table for me, as it would be to anyone with a clue. I'm buying time right now as I don't think I'll see the drivetrain upgrades go in until this fall to early winter. I'm hoping to see some things evolve in that time frame that provide a better DI choice for me.

Filippo
 

Panzerfaust

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Keyword: rerouting
You reroute the flow of vacuum/boost, not any actual lines. It's literally just capping one thing off and connecting an already existing line to a slightly different spot, maybe 10 minutes worth of work including installing the electrical harness
 

Panzerfaust

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I have the flapper unplugged anyway so this could be a great solution. I'm pretty sure I can make this happen but I may come to you for more details if I can't figure it out.
For sure, if you have any questions feel free to ask. Not sure why some people in this thread don't realize how easy it is to change where you T a vacuum line out of lol, but it's an easy and cleaner solution than the typical charge pipe setup imo.
isnt the exhaust flap ran off constant vacuum from the pump? not engine vacuum

the exhaust flap needs vacuum to open the valve, if it used engine vacuum it would close under boost

are you sure your hobbs switch ever sees boost?
Yes, the flap runs off of vacuum. But like I said in my first post about it, you re-route where the line comes from so it sees boost instead of vacuum :rolleyes: I've run it this way for over two years now, and actually got the idea from one of the big name tuners who originally did it.
 
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Milan

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Best way to do it is reroute the flap to your stock nipple for the BOV and then add a bigger fitting into your intake manifold
 

Panzerfaust

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Best way to do it is reroute the flap to your stock nipple for the BOV and then add a bigger fitting into your intake manifold
Yep, basically. I already had my BOVs running off of a VS BOV adapter on top of the manifold, so I just had to uncap the stock DV nipple and run my flapper line there, took two seconds. Most of my time with the install was spent messing around with the trunk liner in order to have a completely stealth install, but even that didn't take long.

100x easier than adding a bung to the chargepipe would be.
 

langsbr

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Try driving a car in the rain running pi and traction control on, its not pleasant.

Wouldn't PI only come on above a certain boost level? Why would you be going WOT in the rain in the first place? I don't even run PI and If it's wet out, I barely get into boost if I can help it.
 

fmorelli

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I've been trying to figure out what connector (male) will actually plug into the factory vacuum connector at the harness. I've been told teh Bosch EV1 will do it. I have some on the way to see how it plays out. I don't like to cut the harness and prefer pinning up a proper connector if possible. If someone has already nailed that connector down, speak up! Otherwise I'll post if this works out.

Filippo
 

martymil

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Wouldn't PI only come on above a certain boost level? Why would you be going WOT in the rain in the first place? I don't even run PI and If it's wet out, I barely get into boost if I can help it.

Because I want to be able to drive in any condition at any throttle with traction on without the car bucking like a rodeo bull as it was built to do.

The MDM traction control is fantastic and you can have some real fun with it without getting into much trouble, one has to experience how good it is compared to 135/335 units.
 

doublespaces

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I've been trying to figure out what connector (male) will actually plug into the factory vacuum connector at the harness. I've been told teh Bosch EV1 will do it. I have some on the way to see how it plays out. I don't like to cut the harness and prefer pinning up a proper connector if possible. If someone has already nailed that connector down, speak up! Otherwise I'll post if this works out.

Filippo

Factory vacuum connector, do you mean the vacuum solenoids? The boost box for example uses an EV1 connector for that, so it sounds like you have the correct part on the way. Same connector as on the flapper solenoid in the trunk.
 

doublespaces

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Then yes, EV1. I use it for my dual mode exhaust project.
1589253988376.png
 
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houtan

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I’m an early n55, so different ecu. But I just pieced together a PI set up controlled by aic because it is the only viable option imo. I just finished dialing in E50 and couldn’t be happier. I am going to try full e85 next.

My one recommendation before buying a pi kit is to understand what factory parts need to be removed for the kit to fit. Most kits require you to remove a bracket for the hpfp, which I think is annoying. Not sure if any of the pi rails retain all factory hw. I think BMP might. If you don’t care then this is a moot point.

Here are my logs. Car is flying.