Hey guys need some help. Friend of mine did a clutch job on his 335i e92. A 335is clutch/flywheel with a new pullout bearing. Clutch wouldn't disengage and now cant put it into gear. Tried a bleed and still wont go into gear. If you try to force it into gear car starts to creep forward a little. Thanks for any help.
New Clutch Wont Disengage Help!
- Thread starter Janforthewin
- Start date
Thanks for the replies guys. So before the bleed the clutch was stiff as heck. And then after the bleed the clutch is alot easier to step on. Not like dropping to the floor it has some restriction. When installing the disc. I believe their was only one way to put on because the grove on the disc made it impossible to go on the other way if you understand what I mean. I will probably have to dissect it. Was hoping maybe slave cylinder not operating correctly? Before I have to take the trans back out...
Would having air in the system cause something like this? Because we got a pump from a buddy to bleed it that way if possibly still air in the system. The one thing that I thought he did wrong was when he was putting the slave cylinder back on, he said it was fully extended and couldn't go back in with it like that and so he pinched a line so the fluid would stop and depressed it to put the slave cylinder back on then released it without actually seeing it extend out to hit the pivot fork if you understand what I mean.
PLLLLEEEEEEAAAAAAASSSSSEEEE HELP,
Guys im having this same issue. Installed pure 600s and then did a Spec Stage 3+ clutch kit that i bought new from top gear solutions. came with new throw out bearing, pilot bearing, ect. We put everything in, then was bleeding everything and pushed in clutch and heard a big snap.... Boom slave cylinder blew.. leaked fluid from bell housing.... waited a day for parts, put in new slave cylnder and bleed the system many times with a pressure bleeder. everything back together and we started it... clutch felt like a new higher stage clutch as is should but i could not get it into gear.... as i was pushing it towards 1st gear, the tires would spin, same with reverse but never in gear... felt very very notchy... but stuck
i have two variables with the situation
1. we replaced the pivot pin with a brass one from ECS... upon instillation, i think we jammed it in there pretty far... after the fact we watched vidoes.. when people literally just place it in there... so we attempted to pound it back out into a less agressive entry.,..
2. the throw out bearing was in low position... 99% of the forums and DIY videos say low position... i spoke with a friend who has a similar issues on a stock 335IS clutch and changed it to high position... and fixed his issue...
Im not sure if i need to pressure bleed from the bottom instead of the top as bubbles always go up.... please help.
Thanks so much
Once i get the car up in running ill post some data... i have FULL bolt on with pure600, spool overdrive kit with a custom tune from wedge... i haven't seen a ton of data with these turbos.. so im curious.
Guys im having this same issue. Installed pure 600s and then did a Spec Stage 3+ clutch kit that i bought new from top gear solutions. came with new throw out bearing, pilot bearing, ect. We put everything in, then was bleeding everything and pushed in clutch and heard a big snap.... Boom slave cylinder blew.. leaked fluid from bell housing.... waited a day for parts, put in new slave cylnder and bleed the system many times with a pressure bleeder. everything back together and we started it... clutch felt like a new higher stage clutch as is should but i could not get it into gear.... as i was pushing it towards 1st gear, the tires would spin, same with reverse but never in gear... felt very very notchy... but stuck
i have two variables with the situation
1. we replaced the pivot pin with a brass one from ECS... upon instillation, i think we jammed it in there pretty far... after the fact we watched vidoes.. when people literally just place it in there... so we attempted to pound it back out into a less agressive entry.,..
2. the throw out bearing was in low position... 99% of the forums and DIY videos say low position... i spoke with a friend who has a similar issues on a stock 335IS clutch and changed it to high position... and fixed his issue...
Im not sure if i need to pressure bleed from the bottom instead of the top as bubbles always go up.... please help.
Thanks so much
Once i get the car up in running ill post some data... i have FULL bolt on with pure600, spool overdrive kit with a custom tune from wedge... i haven't seen a ton of data with these turbos.. so im curious.
Buddy of mine having this same issue. Spec stage 3+ from fcp flywheel matches and everything was installed correctly. Trans is our right now thinking of trying the high position on TOB to see if it will allow the clutch to disengage
Yes were thinking that as well.... did he change the pivot pin from factory plastic to Bronze or SS?? Im going to try to reach out to Spec to see what they say... everyone keeps saying bleed the system.. but we did that.. pretty aggressively.. i dont want to put the transmission in again for the third time.. and have to pull it..
OMG man believe it or not but but just put her back together with the Spec supplied tob on the high setting and the car finally moves brother. Pivot pin was never messed with, on the low setting it was impossible to disengage. Everything was confirmed to be installed right just must have been the short position on tob couldn’t push it far enough. When it was installed with short position tob we even tried a new slave and bleed the crap out of it and still nothing. I noticed on videos no one else ran the style spec clutch I did with the Single mass fly wheel so it was hard to compare installations. Good luck with yours though, I say if it’s the same clutch kit as me it’s got to be the tob for you also. I was puzzled before I figured this out
Attachments
| Cart Items | SKU | Qty |
| Spec Stage 3+ Clutch Kit for SMFW (Non Sac) SB533F-2, 2007-2016 BMW 135i / 335i / 435i / M235i | SB533F-2 |
According to spec this kit requires the low side of the throwout bearing
I installed this exact part number along with Spec Steel flywheel. Used low TOB position. All new Genuine OE accessories such as fork, Tob, spring clip, etc. No issues and engagement point is almost in the middle of pedal stroke.
There is definitely some randomness when it comes to clutches on these cars, however. Previously, I had Spec twin disc and with low TOB setting it barely disengaged right at the floor and same twin disc with high setting was uncomfortably right at the top.
So I have a 2007 e90 335i. I just got the parts in ( new ssb pivot pin and spring.. ) put the throw out barring on the high side. Car goes into gear now. I'm going to call spec. They asked if it was installed incorrectly. We even checked to make sure anything wasn't bent, it even if they put the sticker on the wrong side of the clutch disk.
the cars runs,, i have a base tune from Ken at wedge, for my pure600 with flex fuel... im getting a low gear, low rpm vibration.... im not sure if this is clutch related or not... im sending some logs, i didnt get on it at all being i have 30 miles on the clutch, the disengagement is around the 80% mark or pedal retraction......
I have the same problem. I bought a DKM twin disk. It is difficult to get in 1st or reverse and 2nd at high rpms. My clutch peddle is on the carpet. Can you give a little more detail as too how you fixed the tob in the right position?
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