It does kind of seem like that and it also seemed that on MHD at times it was not reading before, though it was pretty much only on start then it would read afterwards. I sprayed all connections with CRC electronic parts cleaner (car harness, both ends of the 3.5bar adapter, and pin side of the sensor) but all of them looked brand new even before cleaning. May be worth checking my DME connections.
There's a barb drilled in the intake manifold and running a 1/4 inch vacuum line to the BOV.
I see, I'm assuming you used some sort of thread sealer for that barb and capped off the original 1/8" port?..unless you drilled a bigger hole through that specific area.
Your last resort could be to try the ARM Motorsports BOV line upgrade kit, it comes with a spacer for the MAP sensor and a hole to fit a 1/4" barb. I hope I'm not speaking too soon as we know how pesky this 2D2E issue could be haha, but I was running a 1/4" line from my BOV for 1.5ft before adapting it to the original 1/8" line for the rest of the way to the intake manifold. When I finished single turbo install and started the tuning process last week, sure enough the 2D2E followed me from my upgraded twins setup. This time, it was popping up constantly along with a bit of a stumble on warm starts more frequently than before. I finally decided to do the BOV line along with the adapter kit, and so far it has not returned (famous last words), though I haven't reset anything either and it going away on its own. Even if it comes back, it's definitely acting way better than just days before. Though you already have a 1/4" line, the isolation of the MAP sensor in the spacer may help balance the signal and possibly fix it.
Otherwise, just check anywhere for a leak on the mating points of the intake manifold to the head, or even a slight crack somewhere on the valve cover & PCV part(s).
Your last resort could be to try the ARM Motorsports BOV line upgrade kit, it comes with a spacer for the MAP sensor and a hole to fit a 1/4" barb. I hope I'm not speaking too soon as we know how pesky this 2D2E issue could be haha, but I was running a 1/4" line from my BOV for 1.5ft before adapting it to the original 1/8" line for the rest of the way to the intake manifold. When I finished single turbo install and started the tuning process last week, sure enough the 2D2E followed me from my upgraded twins setup. This time, it was popping up constantly along with a bit of a stumble on warm starts more frequently than before. I finally decided to do the BOV line along with the adapter kit, and so far it has not returned (famous last words), though I haven't reset anything either and it going away on its own. Even if it comes back, it's definitely acting way better than just days before. Though you already have a 1/4" line, the isolation of the MAP sensor in the spacer may help balance the signal and possibly fix it.
Otherwise, just check anywhere for a leak on the mating points of the intake manifold to the head, or even a slight crack somewhere on the valve cover & PCV part(s).
This is very helpful, thank you! It looks like a good next step will be to pull the intake manifold, double check the seal on my barb and ensure that the OE one is capped properly, possibly replace the MAP sensor and do the manifold gaskets for both my PI spacer and the manifold itself. Good luck with yours too, this issue absolutely sucks but it sounds like you're on the right track if it's improving!
No problem, sounds like a good next few steps. Keep us updated! And yeah for sure. I'm not one to be too optimistic about a fix I do being the solution on first try, to save my frustration haha, so that's why I'm apprehensive about the BOV line kit being the fix. But, I'm definitely convinced for now because of the warm start behavior being much better along with the code not showing up like it frequently would up until the time I did the BOV upgrade kit installation
Noice--keep us posted! I also might pick up a good used manifold and do the ARM method vs the barb. There's one on eBay that comes with a throttle body too since that's one possible culprit too lol
I will! Yeah if you're going to do that, no harm in not trying out the ARM upgrade as well. But that is true, a failing throttle body potentiometer could definitely be a culprit too and unfortunately it's one whole assembly which doesn't make the cost any easier haha
