Well I would like to keep the original box så I have my combimeter working. But I want to control the engine with my stand alone ecu. I bougth a JB4 but it seams like nobody here in Sweden know how to map with it. I want the tuner to know what they are doing to safely reach my hp goals
And the cost of a tuning? better to skipp the DI and just run PI or it isnt possible to cut the fuel and warning in oem box?All you will be able to use that for is PI control and boost control (if wanted). You can control boost with the stock ECU also, but you will need our converter to use a MAC solenoid.
And the cost of a tuning? better to skipp the DI and just run PI or it isnt possible to cut the fuel and warning in oem box?
I actually did some pretty serious testing on these, compared to others a while back. I would have to dig up my notes, but using a calibrated spring gauge, I would clamp these closed, and compare how hard it was to pull these open compared to very stiffly sprung boost actuated gates, think 19-22 psi cracking pressure, which means your low side boost range was very poor, but they would hold high boost. These hands down clamped at 22 in/hg which they see at 100% WDGC took much more pressure to pull, or push open than even the super stiffly sprung boosted gates. This is when I stopped messing around with trying to get boosted IWG's to work on the N54, and just embraced the factory system. A true 0 psi low side boost range, and harder to push open than a 20 psi sprung gate. Win / Win Basically I dont know the EBP when they would be blown open, but its extremely high, and other things would become serious issues if you were running that high of EBP