ADE intercooler install
- Thread starter Davidwarren
- Start date
My installer had me get a Phoenix racing charge pipe as i went from dv to tial I had a bms before and he ran 2.5 inch hard pipe from my ad e 650 to the charge pipe where did you get the elbow and it was long enough?
Just a heads up for guys wondering about intercooler connections...
The ADE MT intercoolers have a long 3" outlet that rises up behind the radiator shroud. This is done to give guys a true 3" pipe from IC to TB and minimize joints (only one coupler needed). It is designed to be ran with the ADE 3" chargepipe, but can be ran with other brands if you're willing to modify or get creative with couplers.
The ADE AT intercoolers (as the name implies) are intended for auto trans cars. The auto 135/335 has a coolant/ATF cooler attached to the radiator shroud. This cooler location is not compatible with the MT IC outlet. So the AT IC has a short, straight 3" outlet and supplied with a 3"-2.5" 90degree reducer coupler allowing you to reuse your OEM plastic uppipe (which clears the auto cooler). Because the AT IC is meant to use the stock uppipe location, the AT IC is also a good choice for guys that have aftermarket 1pc or 2pc Non-ADE chargepipes already. The AT is also a good choice for convertibles with the frame brace or cars equipped with the factory aux radiator on the left.
Because there are so many configurations when mixing brands, it is hard to make every combo PNP. If you are mixing components from different vendors you should expect to make some mild adjustments and leave yourself time to do so.
Hope that helps alittle.
The ADE MT intercoolers have a long 3" outlet that rises up behind the radiator shroud. This is done to give guys a true 3" pipe from IC to TB and minimize joints (only one coupler needed). It is designed to be ran with the ADE 3" chargepipe, but can be ran with other brands if you're willing to modify or get creative with couplers.
The ADE AT intercoolers (as the name implies) are intended for auto trans cars. The auto 135/335 has a coolant/ATF cooler attached to the radiator shroud. This cooler location is not compatible with the MT IC outlet. So the AT IC has a short, straight 3" outlet and supplied with a 3"-2.5" 90degree reducer coupler allowing you to reuse your OEM plastic uppipe (which clears the auto cooler). Because the AT IC is meant to use the stock uppipe location, the AT IC is also a good choice for guys that have aftermarket 1pc or 2pc Non-ADE chargepipes already. The AT is also a good choice for convertibles with the frame brace or cars equipped with the factory aux radiator on the left.
Because there are so many configurations when mixing brands, it is hard to make every combo PNP. If you are mixing components from different vendors you should expect to make some mild adjustments and leave yourself time to do so.
Hope that helps alittle.
Is their a recommended way to run 3 inch the whole way ? Also Would you ever consider making a silicone lower charge pipe for us at guys and or a kit to upgrade to the solid pipe once we delete the factory heat exchanger or would the nipple still be in the way of straight solid pipe?
I have no plans to make a 3" uppipe for AT car.
I do have customers that moved their AT cooler and ran a full 3" MT setup.
I am convertible, AT and use the MT FMIC. It fits, barely, I also have an upgraded trans cooler so the heat exchanger is gone.
Slight shroud trimming was necessary but all in all it fit well. And now i have no heat exchanger and forward facing manifold.
AT would need to relocate heat exchanger. The up pipe would hit it otherwise if using the MT version.
I swapped to the manual radiator as well, so I don't really know how all that fits if you left all that stuff in there. But more or less I'm a manual conversion in the cooling department since that heat exchanger is gone.
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