E89 3DM Motorsport E89 Z4 Atacama Yellow Build

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-07-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cruisingdownthestreet
how much force do you need to use to pop off the roll bar covers? i feel like any harder either my trim tool breaks (it's broken before) or i chip/engrave some plastic away

Start from the bottom, pulling backward, wedge in with a flat trim tool (wider one helps - I prefer having a kit like this.) The pieces will not break - they are not clips but rather a ball and socket, so it will come apart. Starting from the bottom will have you fight just the bottom-most ball socket. Once it starts spreading, pull on the back.

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-09-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cruisingdownthestreet
viewpost.gif

Is there anything where the windscreen shield latches onto on the roll bar cover in the way?

No. Let me show you a photo of the rear cover, from the inside. This will help.

rOncpfRmXkqyhxBxm7URapVk22Ycg7JMrrsDTcZ51D0xHxkG0N2lrg_YxgAlBYXgKgMj7oAVq8pMQ=w2078-h1558-no-tmp.jpg


If you have the convertible windscreen, you will need to unscrew the black convertible rail that is held to the outside of the silver hoops - two torx screws. But if you do not have it, there is nothing in the way.

From the photo, you can see that there are eight balls that simply slide in (with friction) to eight sockets. By starting at the bottom outside, you start to pry the lower one loose. This gives you leverage to pull apart the rest of them. Don't be afraid to use force, just don't use metal.

Hope this helps,

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-09-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctperson
viewpost.gif

I think Filippo is a retired rich ol' white guy with a little bit too much free time lol
OR, he is going through a mid-life crisis.
(I hope he doesn't go nuts over this benign comment.)

Hahaha I could only hope. Retirement and riches sound good, though!

I like to build cars. Have done it for a long time. I just finished restoring an E46, rebuilt an E39 not long ago, started a 318ti (m-tech califormnia roof) which we are now about to dig back in and do in the Fall.

The E89 Z4 is a superb platform - light, low center of gravity, great drivetrain. If it wasn't for all the ever-so-slight differences with the E46 and E9x parts bin pieces, it would be a lot easier to modify. The fact that a mere 10,000 were imported into the USA means there are really few people in the USA doing the wisdom of crowds thing - we simply have too small a group digging into this car and sorting it out. Thanks to our friends in the rest of the world, or information would be really really thin. Though I have to say, I don't read German so that slows me down! Furthermore, I think most all of the cars were sold to non-enthusiasts or non-BMW owners. It amazed me that BMW never made an Motorsport version of the car. I waited until the car I wanted (citrus package, m-sport, stick) showed up at a reasonable price, bought it and had it shipped to me, and began working on making it what I thought it should be. I set the limit of stock turbochargers to frame the project. That may seem benign, but the moment you change those the sky is the limit, design and build wise, so it is a useful constraint for framing the project.

With the final tuning working remaining with BQ Tuning, the first phase of this car (which was extensive), will finally be finished. I have other things I'd like to do in the next phase, but in good time - Ohlin coil-overs, PB brakes all around, and a Gruppe M intake. For now, all I really need to do is finish the tuning work and finalize the stereo "fixes". I've been at it for about 15 months and would like to call this section of the book "finished". While others have been helpful, jts1981 has been materially invaluable in his sharing. I don't think this project would be where it is at without his input.

Just for the record, unfortunately very few (if any) people are posting what they are doing with their cars. The Z4 has just entered the price range where a much broader group can consider buying and modifying (those that did it with new cars needed to spend way more total dollars, starting with the base price of the car). It's unfortunate that we don't have lots of other people sharing what they are doing - that has been the hallmark of BMW communities, especially with the very engineer-heavy owners. Sadly this forum [e89post] has become a ghost town and one can a) leave, b) complain, c) contribute.

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-10-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurcher
FYI on the amp software: even after a RTA session when mine got installed - it still took a few days of tweaking to get it to sound good to me. Take measurements from your ears to the front speakers - that will help with initial set-up (time delays). I ended up dropping my center channel from the amp as it was making things muddy.

I did my set-up first with top up, then top down, as that's the way it is most of the time. This helped with the base set-up config.

Remember, fresh ears first thing in the morning, don't tune for too long. You will be upgrading the subs after the amp, as they are frustratingly sucky....

@Lurcher thanks. So I ordered Hertz 165.1's for the footwell's, which are 6.5" mid-bass speakers. I understood that the majority of bass comes from there. I also understand that this amp drives all these speaker locations. Along with the Bavsound Stage 1's covering the remaining mids/tweets, I expect I should be in the zip code with some tuning?

May I aks what your speaker config is? Thanks!

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-11-2017:

Well with most things being replaced while maintaining stock harness / location / etc, I decided I'd take a look at the rear firewall woofers while stuff is coming in and I'm taking the car apart.

First of all, for those that haven't found it, a very good tutorial on how to get to the rear firewall speakers. According to this guy, just going in and doing some sound deadening work improved the sound of the stock speakers. Combined with this Bavsound tutorial, one can pretty much get to most of the speakers (just note that driver door is slightly different, with screws under the armrest).

I'm using Noico 80 mil material, which seems to be cost effective and work well. There is sufficient material in the 18 sq ft package to do much of the car.

That said, if I'm going to go to the effort of pulling all that rear packaging apart (and I have to pull the trunk apart as well, for the amp that is going in), I want to look at woofer replacement options. There are a couple stock-fit solutions. The tricky part is cross-compatibility as often the E89 Z4 is not listed as a fitment, though it may work. Such is the case here, as I understand it. We share the same speaker as the F30 (and maybe E90) under seat woofers. Rockford Fosgate has a direct bolt-in replacement, T3-BMW-SUB, but it is a bit more than i had in mind. Digging around some more, I found that the Jehnert XE200R with BMW bracket that is a direct bolt-in. Lots of very positive reviews, both for this brand and this particular woofer. Also positive reviews when using the bimmertech amp I plan to install. In the USA, the importer is Unexpected Creations, whose owner has a good rep in the BMW community. So I have a note in to get a price on a pair of woofers. I think the pair may come in around $300, but we'll see. FWIW, the Hertz 165.1's were $225 shipped to the USA from Germany, which is a good price. The bimmertech amp was $850 with a coupon. I got a steal on the Bav Sound Stage 1 pre-order. Figure about $1600 all in and some reasonable elbow grease, the car should not only sound great, but all the sound deadening should drop the NVH and just make life better all around.

I'll post more info as things come apart and go back together. It has been a bit of a bear to find information out about these cars. I will add, for those looking to spend little money, I suspect just buying the sound deadening and spending some time doing that, will improve sound quality and reduce the general resonance in the various panels. I'm expecting easier conversations in the car, and clearer sounds from the actual car (exhaust, engine). We'll see ...

Filippo
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-11-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by xpuzzle
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmorelli
I have other things I'd like to do in the next phase, but in good time - Ohlin coil-overs, PB brakes all around, and a Gruppe M intake.
Filippo

What has been your experience with Ohlin's? Most of the coil over upgrades I've read here have been to KWs and the feedback have been positive. Are there aspects of Ohlin that you feel is different/better?

I'm the wrong guy to answer, that, but @jts1981 and @jake169 are local to one another, may make some comparisons (since one has KW3 and the other Ohlins).

The Ohlins have a great reputation, and as much as the KW3's are definitely great, the Ohlins may get a slightly bigger thumbs up. But the above guys will hopefully provide some direct feedback.

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-11-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jts1981
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpuzzle
viewpost.gif

What has been your experience with Ohlin's? Most of the coil over upgrades I've read here have been to KWs and the feedback have been positive. Are there aspects of Ohlin that you feel is different/better?

Ohlins and KW are both excellent options. KWV3 vs Ohlins are both top notch quality and performance. Ohlins has a slight edge due to their patented valving system. But honestly its like comparing a 911 Turbo, to a 911 Turbo S. Can't go wrong either way.

I daily drive my car in Long Island and around NYC with spirited drives in Bear Mountain. My car is comfortable at all speeds, and confidence building. If you read my previous posts you can see my car is always evolving. At one point there was more power than the chassis could handle. High speed runs would feel a bit floaty and scary with stock struts and h&r springs.

The way my car sits today I feel confident at high speed runs. My commute has a few areas where I can cruise at 100, pass at 120. It feels like I'm doing 80. The other day I pulled away from an e92 M3 around 120-30. Yes, you read that right. Bq's e60 tune makes that very very easy, but thats another topic all together.

I love my suspension set up and highly recommend to everyone to, regardless of which coilover, follow through with the complimentary components. This combo will give you more stability and car control.

For anyone starting to mod just think of it this way...
More car control = more fun
More cooling = longer fun
More braking = safer fun
More breathing = more efficient fun
More power = is more giggles, but with out the above its all in vain.
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-12-2017:

Back to speakers. As I had mentioned, in the USA it is very hard to figure out what to do with these cars. I've been speaking to German retailers (gotta love Facebook messaging) and thankfully their English is way better than my German. In discussing my system (and specifically the Audiotech Fischer amplification that is a plug-n-play with the 676HIFI harness), the audio specialist recommended "Rainbow IL-S8F BMW" ... they came to about $300 for the pair, which anyone that has been in the market for woofer replacements in the rear knows prices range from $450-600 for Jehnert, Rockford Fosgate, Bavsound replacements. Anyway they ship tomorrow. I'll report as the Hertz footwell 6.5" get installed, as well as the Rainbow 8" in the rear.

Filippo
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-12-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurcher
viewpost.gif

Will be interested to see the 6.5 install and the results, as most people don't bother

Most people don't bother, yet what I understand is the majority of the bass comes from the footwell speakers. Bavsound told me they don't because only the Z4 uses that and the economics isn't worth it. In other words, its not that changing it wasn't worth it ... We'll see.

What I have discovered, after two weeks of research, is that there are a number of German audio manufacturers that are making sound system components just for our cars (F30 compatibility). So Bavsound is a choice, but there are also other choices. Also, some times those items are well-priced from a German vendor that ships to you DHL/FedEx. For $300 shipped for a pair of Rainbow woofers for the rear (versus the Jehnert's for $450), for example, I don't know why I'd spend 50% more. The Rainbow's have been around a long time, made in Germany quality. BTW, Rainbow has complete component systems for BMW, as does a number of other players - Jehnert, Hertz, Vibe, Rainbox, Rockford Fosgate, ... this stuff is just not well documented, as I'm discovering.

Another issue, I believe ... the USA being a big country, many of our retailers do eCommerce. It seems that not many German audio retailers have web storefronts, so it is a bit hard to find stuff if you are American (and don't speak German, though thank God for Google Translate). I worked with a guy from more-db.de, and we communicated over Facebook messenger. I spoke with him about what I was doing, my components. He made recommendations, priced, sent me a Paypal invoice, he sent me photos, and in an hour had DHL number for me. Just food for thought for those exploring.

BTW I agree on the top-down observation. But I enjoy a good drive with the top down, and my tunes blaring from time to time. I don't doubt these improvements will be significant, open air driving or not.

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-15-2017:

I'm adding this from another thread, since it relates to my car. This relates to mounting the headlight leveling apparatus on the E9x M3 passenger side control arm. The M3 has it mounted on the driver side, so this is something that needs to be rigged up. They even use a different mounting system (25 years of doing headlight levelers on BMW's, one might think they would have settled on a way to mount this ...)

In the photos you can see I have two wire ties being used: one tie is just on the arm, but prevents the mount from walking down the arm. The second photo shows a wire tie acting as a clasp. When you pop the mount off the regular arm, it is not big enough to clasp the M3 arm. I just ran the wire tie through the two slots and tugged.

Note that the headlight leveling clasp is yet another cheap BMW product. There is basically no meat on the clasp and it is easy to break. You'll find this to be slightly tricky since the clasp needs to be contorted some to wrap around the bigger E9x M3 control arm.

Filippo

4v1LY--H--mSDnShk64Zqe9TG1I-rfr3OStreijmS8Cc31N3szt_OGfF04EcqZraaN6X6uqNhywAA=w1390-h1853-no-tmp.jpg


Na_8MmYMvqCQeRQkb4zcgh_SIQbOSeli3_a1etdMeg5W1jNJ4AoD4Fj6YkGS83bGGXSl7yVbYYKwM=w1390-h1853-no-tmp.jpg
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-16-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetracr
I solved problem with a hose clamp going through slots in original bracket. I trimmed bracket to align with center line of control arm and then used hose clamp to permanently hold bracket.
Headlight brkt.jpg
Headlight brkt1.jpg

Nice! I think this is also what @jts1981 was referring to. Thanks for the pictures!

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-22-2017:

For those following along (or those doing searches for scant e89 information!) ...

I'm in the middle of installing the footwell mid-bass woofers. These are somewhat elusive. The Bavsound kit does not include them. As I previously mentioned, and based on @jake169 input, I am installing Hertz 165.1 speakers. The fit seems good (and I suspect any 6.5" single coil speaker would fit). But I did not want to cut the factory wiring harness, so passing this information along.

There is no BMW connector for the male side of the connection, since the factory speakers have the connector integrated in the chassis. No one in the aftermarket seems to sell this connector, either, nor could I figure out if there is a like connector on the BMW. So finally I went spelunking for a two-pin spade bit connector that was in the zip code. Sure enough Metra 72-6512 looked close, made for a Chrysler. I ordered it from Amazon (which has the wrong photo ... ignore the photo, the p/n is what matters).

I cut the plastic housing off, exposing the spade points. They fit perfectly into the BMW female connector on the wiring harness. I'll put small cable tie across the backside of the male and female connectors to keep them together. Problem solved.

I will need to drill 4 mounting holes in the car, which was not my favorite thing to do, either. But frankly the hole locations are close enough that it is too much of a headache to make (and mount) a conversion plate. I plan to put a bead of silicone caulk between the speaker chassis and car chassis.

FWIW, pulling the panels to access the speakers are easy. In both cases you have to unscrew the above foot kickpanel (underside of dash) with a few torx screws. Those panels then slide backward. You pull both door sills (a good firm tug pops them off), and finally you slide each kick panel off the rear carpet (where you'll see the kick panel sort of clips to the carpet). Of course on the driver side there is a phillips screw that mounts the hood release handle, which must be removed. Real simple stuff. The kick panels also slide back and out, once you've disconnected them from the carpet at the rear.

Filippo

Note the factory speaker connector is integrated into the overall speaker chassis. Of the two connectors shown, the right one is original, the left shows the shroud cut off:
xZiY_Q5syN4y9sDSiQCN-0hefJhStmb_XjUgLfyHmT-oryABveL4kk2Rroz-Xqzsr8vLuX8EEJlkc=w2318-h1738-no-tmp.jpg


Speaker ready for installation:
cmx8j6ZDosYlQsR-CR-FDGMRsKCFDZok0_0jp2nXS6MYN373E9jxza_qcMUpVLyo_LcejY7uPrj68=w1305-h1738-no-tmp.jpg


Hertz speakers clocks in at twice the weight of the BMW factory speaker it replaces:
twJR1jKAJoa4WJ9Y3Fx09ixTWRBnpvZxK-pIDt6IJM4eCDFz3bP6WvyWseNHSorOTVctoCKD7TBwM=w1388-h1850-no-tmp.jpg
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-23-2017:

I'm posting all this detail on the Z4 footwell woofers as I've found nothing elsewhere, and hopes this helps someone. The Hertz 165.1 speakers are installed, and I just need to put the panels back in place.

I contemplated drilling four holes in the metal paneling, to mount the speakers, which was really not my first choice. But I was concerned about making an adapter plate (you can't buy one) because of the close overlap of the chassis (its mount points) and the factory screw locations. Inspecting the metal panel, I realize that BMW has actually inset plastic plugs which the screws mount to. I decided to make 1/2" birch plywood plates. As for making the adapters, I copied the outline pattern from the factory speakers. I drilled countersinks and switched from the 8mm socket head screws to panhead screwdrivers which mount more shallow. The resultant adapter plates were sprayed black. Before installing anything, I put some sound deadening material on the back panel. I then screwed the adapters to the chassis, then plugged in the speakers (make sure the pos/neg orientation is correct or the speakers will be out of phase), then I used a wire tie to hold the two plugs together since my modified Chrysler plug doesn't lock in.

The pictures should be self explanatory.

Filippo

Here are the finished adapter plates. Note you can see the phillips screws I used - longer ones for adapter to chassis, shorter ones for speaker to adapter.:
0kOaSS1GWCuQFwUouACuQByz1GmnpiMjDONz9oxju1QQf6JbYK_vKfysPTdEusxJkIdJOLTlNOqMY=w2468-h1850-no-tmp.jpg


These are the recessed holes that allow for flush use of panhead phillips screws, when mounting the adapters to the body chassis:
UYbyzEetOO3QLD09rHmbUMiUeBGqdLf2gW0JpeLO4e5DsFi2HQk_w4vXNq34tX2dwAK4h7iUXI6X0=w2468-h1850-no-tmp.jpg


36fLyBOYBFzPeiintS47UthRl7OGE8LLBcdYe6ObWeKDGr0nMYNvseB-Djoka3tMSLlwCb3YXFOho=w2468-h1850-no-tmp.jpg


Here is the adapter installed, with sound deadening in the background panel.
Bgw7430tR0S4x9DA3TXThUVKUBp-BTiRCQTJgTyrdpOtVTqmXcNFwQWafFdp9saDucUwFtKxFcS48=w1388-h1850-no-tmp.jpg


Here you can see how a wire tie was used to hold the plugs firmly together:
thvryakMq7M2OxzuUB_fbZQErB2o6L7RkjutApFcVq0mZcrD8RvNgLO2ZR_0chG18TxvIbjTTL5so=w1388-h1850-no-tmp.jpg


Speaker installed:
FaoCvBRjAWSHVl7DKPvqUHCRrwm1s2P9IUbYu0sUfuMAu1fVJ_6evEYv_rEAp_Fzr6x9wAI1VCW7A=w2468-h1850-no-tmp.jpg
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-23-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurcher
So you only created the plates due to not wanting to mount to the metal (and use the plastic mounting nut plates? No depth issues?

I was probably not too clear. I really didn't want to drill the chassis if I didn't need to. I didn't need the additional depth (there is plenty there). The adapters need 1/2" so I could countersink the panhead screws so they would not hit the speaker once it is mounted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurcher
And a new toy I just bought (if your interested) : https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-.../dp/B00ADR2B84

Plenty of SPL meters available on-line to use this with. Been too hot to go try it out in the vehicles

Yeah the heat is brutal in Virginia where I am right now. I go out and work on the car 5 minutes at a time. The rest of the time is spent in the shop making stuff, where there is A/C.

So on to the mic. My audiotech fisher amp has integrated DSP which is configured using their DSP PC Tool. While I do most work myself (hey it is cheaper than psych therapy sessions), bimmertech guys have told me that unless one has significant DSP tuning experience, one is better off letting a pro do this. I'm just not sure I want to spend the ramp up time to sort it all out. I've been asking around for a good reference in the Washington DC area, but no useful feedback yet on various forums.

Maybe I should order up the mic and take the plunge ...

The Rainbow 8" rear speakers arrived from Germany today. So next I'll pull apart both sides of the rear bulkhead so I can install both the speakers and amp, and do some sound deadening.

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-23-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurcher
I have a similar amp (Audioson in the Z and a fischer in the x3). I'd d swear they are the same boards, just cross branded (plus are all the same configuration), but I digress.

I had them use a separate RTA for the z tuning (award winning installers here in Dallas), but I still ended up re-tuning over the course of a week. I got 2 different sound files for the X3, and again adapted accordingly. 50 yr old ears now in effect.... On both systems - one you understand the basics - it's fun to play around with. The complexity is in the crossover types and the db filter "strength". Bimmertech should have a file for the Z, they (Nelson - great guy) sent me theirs for the X

So - how do they sound?

The subs are going to be a bitch :)
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-23-2017:

So I got a question. I've asked this on the F30 board as well. My bimmertech amp came with an F30 file - Bav Stg 1 w/Ghost subs (these things are all over the F30 forum) as a start point. Here's what confuses me. The E89 Z4 676HIFI is a 9-channel system, right? 2 door, 2 footwell, 2 rear shoulder, 2 rear woofers, 1 front center. The bimmertech is 8-channel (as is the F30 sound system I believe).

What am I missing? What is the topology of our car's sound system? I may need to go look at the ETK for the car. I am told the bimmertech is a plug-n-play solution, but I don't get the channel disconnect.

Thanks,

Filippo
 

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-23-2017:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurcher
So I lost the center channel when I put the amp in, as the amps only 8 channels. It was that or put a second amp in for the subs.

In the X3 and others - there is no mid-bass (6.5 inch), so it works (fronts (tweets/4 inch mid)/rears/subs/center). We are just special.....

Trust me - you won't miss it with the time delay. What I would recommend is some foam on the portion of the tweeter facing back - as the speaker is so close when driving it's hard to delay it "enough". Put you hand up to the tweeter when playing, holding a finger vertically on the back edge to see what I mean. Totally changes the imaging...

Does Nelson not have a file for the z?

Ahhh ... some clarity. Thanks!

So while we are on this subject (and I can't find much of anything about our E89 Z4 audio systems) ... so I've read elsewhere that losing the center channel is no loss and I'm good with that.

But here's my curiosity. So does the Z4 have a 9-channel DSP/amp? That is, all speakers are powered from that amp? That's the lead question to the next - is the wiring setup on the bimmertech done so the output line to the center channel is dead? Obviously if there are 9 power wires out, this would only push 8?

I've tried to reach out to Nelson but got redirected to their generic support. I was given an F30 config. Reality is we are the only ones with 6.5" mid-bass in the footwells, so I think this is custom.

Filippo
 
Last edited:

fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
3,502
3,261
0
55
Virginia
Ride
E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Posted originally on 07-23-2017:

You know I mostly post on this thread, in an attempt to keep things alive until others decide to post on this forum. Having it be nearly dead does not help the collective us
thumbdown.gif
.

Okay so a shout out to IND Distribution, who provides the color coded side reflectors some of us use on the Z4's. Turns out Atacama Yellow is rare enough that they didn't bother to have that on their paint selection list. No worries, Chloe @ IND asked that I send in a tow hook cover. They mixed and matched the paint, shot the reflectors, and sent everything back. No extra charge or anything. Looks good and I couldn't be happier. They'll get installed this weekend, so I can then get the lower part of the car all back together.

Filippo

x2u985Sl7gB8UQ2N9MWXY0aQ8JdlaTuwOzNQDqtsUrL1rcR415hzHAHrhhMCWIsbus8dF2A4tnxfDk=w899-h1599-no-tmp.jpg