VTT N54 Crank Bolt Capture

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Want a little extra security that your N54 crank bolt won't back out leaving you with 24 bent valves? Here is an easy and cost effective way to do that; the VTT N54 crank bolt capture. It slips over the head of the crank bolt, fully encapsulating it, and locks it to the crank hub. This means the bolt cannot back out -no matter what.

The VTT-N54-CBC is 100% Billet Aircraft Grade Aluminum, Anodized black to protect it from the elements, and give it a stealth look.

While this is not a full fix for all crank hub spinning issues, we have found most of our issues have stemmed from the bolt itself backing out, and this is a great way to keep that from happening. Extremely light weight at only 1.3 ounces, it adds virtually no weight to the crank which is important for balance and vibration purposes.

These are in stock, and on the VTT Website for immediate sale. Price is $99 for hub capture, and all 12.9 hardware needed for install. We suggest using blue loc-tite on your crank hub bolts. Note: First pics are of the N54 crank bolt capture; the last 3 pics are of the S55 crank bolt capture (different height/dims/8 bolts vs 6, etc. Those last pics were actually taken by a dealership who -under warranty- installed it on a customer's car who spun their hub.

http://performance.vargasturbo.com/products/

As always email any questions to [email protected]

Thanks!

Chris

 

[doublespaces]

So at what point could someone add this to their car, does the engine need to be out?

 

[Jsherry20]

I'm glad this finally came out, saw you talking about it on the Facebook page a while back.

 

[camberadam]

Should be able to install just removing basics. Looks like it sits on front face of pulley.

 

[camberadam]

While this is not a full fix for all crank hub spinning issues, we have found most of our issues have stemmed from the bolt itself backing out, and this is a great way to keep that from happening. Extremely light weight at only 1.3 ounces, it adds virtually no weight to the crank which is important for balance and vibration purposes.

Chris, would you attribute this to more tear downs/rebuilds VTT does than the average guy? As in, you guys are always experimenting, while the average guy probably has never touched his crank bolt. If a crank bolt hasn't backed out in 90k+ miles, what is the likelihood its going to come out now you know? Is it a HP thing or??? Obviously no one wants bent valves, just trying to determine the importance of this for my own setup.

 

[FRNTHVY]

This is a great product. Ordered.

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Chris, would you attribute this to more tear downs/rebuilds VTT does than the average guy? As in, you guys are always experimenting, while the average guy probably has never touched his crank bolt. If a crank bolt hasn't backed out in 90k+ miles, what is the likelihood its going to come out now you know? Is it a HP thing or??? Obviously no one wants bent valves, just trying to determine the importance of this for my own setup.

It's happened to a handful of guys, but it isn't really common knowledge. We've heard of it from a dozen or so people, some guys had it happen after they did walnut blasting and used the crank bolt to turn the motor, some guys the engine just got higher mileage and it let go... we're not 100% sure. For us, it started with a crank bolt we thought was tightened from the machine shop and it wasn't. That was the original slip that screwed things up. Once we figured out those parts were now junk, when it happened again on good parts we realized the crank bolt itself was backing out. Captivating it then makes sense.

Chris

 

[camberadam]

It's happened to a handful of guys, but it isn't really common knowledge. We've heard of it from a dozen or so people, some guys had it happen after they did walnut blasting and used the crank bolt to turn the motor, some guys the engine just got higher mileage and it let go... we're not 100% sure. For us, it started with a crank bolt we thought was tightened from the machine shop and it wasn't. That was the original slip that screwed things up. Once we figured out those parts were now junk, when it happened again on good parts we realized the crank bolt itself was backing out. Captivating it then makes sense.

Chris

Understood. Ordered.

 

[Alex@BimmerLifeTuning]

Damn... this is one of those "why didnt I think of that" moments. Nice work!

 

[Erichale77]

I hope it works with the ATI dampner

 

[Bmwfixerguy1]

Brilliant @Chris@VargasTurboTech

 

[torbearfree]

Chris@VargasTurboTech What are the torque specs for the bolts? Everything is installed but I cant find anything on your sight saying what the torque spec is. Is it same as OEM?

 

[STE92]

Chris@VargasTurboTech What are the torque specs for the bolts? Everything is installed but I cant find anything on your sight saying what the torque spec is. Is it same as OEM?

Its 25 ft/lbs

 

[Jeffman]

I tried to install the crank hub plate but the angle of the crank hub bolt is off a few degrees and the mounting screws cannot go in. See photo. Does this mean I just need to tighten the crank hub bolt a little?

 

[F87Source]

I tried to install the crank hub plate but the angle of the crank hub bolt is off a few degrees and the mounting screws cannot go in. See photo. Does this mean I just need to tighten the crank hub bolt a little?
View attachment 54602

Don't touch the crank bolt without the proper timing lock tools in place.

But yes you'd have to tighten the crank bolt a but more, if you have checked all other mounting orientations and the holes do not like up. Personally further stretching the bolt is one of the most sketchy things to do imo, but of you want it to fit without modifying the plate then it's what you have to do. Consult vtt for more info.


Otherwise without timing tools you could file out the plate a bit more, but that does risk messing up the balance of the plate. But I don't think this is a good idea either.

 

[Cruizinmax]

I would be more inclined to grind the holes on the capture plate rather than tighten the crank bolt more. You'd have to turn it another 35 degrees or so in order to get it to line up with the next set of slots. Or loosen it 5*.

The amount you'd be taking off wouldn't effect the balance. The weight being so close to the rotational axis and presumably you're going to be taking off fairly equal amounts from each hole. Don't even worry about that.

 

[Torgus]

If you don't want to stretch the bolt or start grinding you could use try a different capture: https://www.hackengineering.co.uk/product/ked-crank-bolt-capture-plate-n54/ or have your own made like Motiv did which is/was designed on the car but that is probably the most expensive option.

 

[Jeffman]

Many thanks for all of your comments. I’ll probably grind it a touch with the dremel. Any thoughts that perhaps the crank hub bolt had already slipped? I have a pretty aggressive tune on stock turbos. ???

 

[RuskiRacer]

If you don't want to stretch the bolt or start grinding you could use try a different capture: https://www.hackengineering.co.uk/product/ked-crank-bolt-capture-plate-n54/ or have your own made like Motiv did which is/was designed on the car but that is probably the most expensive option.

Think I might scoop this one up for my built motor im putting in

 

[F87Source]

Many thanks for all of your comments. I’ll probably grind it a touch with the dremel. Any thoughts that perhaps the crank hub bolt had already slipped? I have a pretty aggressive tune on stock turbos. ???

No, it's just how it is, every by is slightly different so the orientation relative to the hub is different thus the fitmemt variations from car to car.