VTT Aluminum Outlet Testing Results!

[langsbr]

Do you mean like an exhaust sleeve clamp? If so, no. I most likely just didn't have a tight enough clamp with the hose clamp I was using. I really want to try using a constant tension worm gear clamp, but the worm gear is so large I'm not sure if that will even fit.

 

[shushikiary]

I got and used 2 t-bolt clamps on mine when I had it. They work MUCH better, and there is indeed room to get them in there. (2 on each turbo output, 2 on the center connector between the two halves, and one each side of the intercooler connecting tube).

 

[langsbr]

I got and used 2 t-bolt clamps on mine when I had it. They work MUCH better, and there is indeed room to get them in there. (2 on each turbo output, 2 on the center connector between the two halves, and one each side of the intercooler connecting tube).

That only works on stock turbos. Hybrid turbos use a hose coupler - or are you saying you had V-bands installed on aftermarket turbos?

I am going to try some murray dual bead shield constant tension clamps.

https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/constant-tension/dual-bead-super-sealing-clamp-db/

 

[shushikiary]

I had a set of VTT GC+'s I was doing that on

 

[langsbr]

Sorry for some reason I read t-bolt as v-band

 

[fmorelli]

That's the Murray constant tension clamp setup. I highly recommend installing them with a flex nut driver, such as: https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Tridon-800019999058-Flexible-Driver-Reversible/dp/B00529CVS8/. Not only helps you manage tension on the fastener, but you can get in tight places, flex head onto fastener with one hand, twist with the other.

 

[martymil]

I only use and supply turbo smart clamps and plazmaman clamps with my products, everything else is a waste of time.

 

[drunkentrader]

Targeting 25 psi boost.

so I ran away from this thread for a bit, and hid in shame. When I had last fixed it — it wasn’t the coupler that meets the turbo that blew off, but the 4” coupler that joins the two outlets together. So naturally, I wanted to do it right and uninstalled both the bank 2 coupler and the 4” connector jammie. Cleaned em up real nice with isopropyl alcohol, and sprayed aquanet on em. Result: musical chairs, outlet at turbo popper off. There just isn’t any room for error in this install. Probably the simplest thing to get right with the turbos in your hand, but from above that bank 2 turbo is a blind shot.

So im gonna try one last time. Buying a new coupler and some of those fancy turbosmart clamps. If I can’t get it to work I’ll take it to my mechanic and have him take out the downpipes and reinstall it the foolproof way.

So was thinking about buying this coupler and a pair of turbosmart clamps. Just have to make sure they offer a clamp narrow anough for the channel on the outlet pipe itself. It’s got a lot less room band width-wise vs the turbo outlet mouth.

their ultra high temp is rated for 500 degrees F. Is that even enough? And a hump to give me a couple degrees of error when clocking it, as it’s a tug of war to get the turbo side clocked and lined up while also meeting the center pipe without them each jacking both connections up while tightening it.

HPS 1-1/2" ID (38mm) High Temperature Reinforced Silicone Hoses

HPS 1.5" high temperature reinforced silicone hoses available in 1-1/2" silicone coupler, hump coupling, coolant tube, reducer transition hoses, 45 90 degree bend elbow, charge air cooler cac hoses, great for custom coolant radiator heater system, 38mm intercooler piping, turbo diesel marine.

hpsperformanceproducts.com

 

[shushikiary]

500 degree silicone should be enough for contact with the compressor outlet and the rest of the pipe, but to me it's all still a little close to the exhaust manifold, so when I did the install I tapped all the exposed silicone with heat tape and then used the host clamps to hold it on so it was very protected.

Something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-13995

 

[drunkentrader]

Bought the turbosmart clamps and a high temp coupler on amazon, but gonna order one hump coupler for the turbo, and one hump coupler for the connector tube(6 vs the VTT 4"er) just to be safe and sane. But I think I need to buy One pinch clamp? A narrow one like the one VTT provides. I throughout the old one out now knowing how it worked. It appears these are called pinch clamps, and it aint easy finding one in the right size.

I think for the above-the-engine one-handed half-blind installation you need all the forgiveness and extra help you can get.. one twist of the clamp can twerk the clocking on either ends and totally misalign a good seal. I am very surprised I havent set fire to this car already... like intentionally -- not due to the gas leak I have from either my old style lpfp sensor + pipe leaking, or a poor install job of the HPFP overdrive. I think ive installed enough injectors to know I didn't mulejack that part of the fuel system when i did new index 12 injectors, plus the smell is emanating from around/below the intake manifold, away from the injectors.

You guys really are a good commiserative support group in the n54 community. Does it every pay off!? lol -- the bloody knuckles and the questions from your neighbors of "whats wrong with it now, shouldnt ya might just...wanna ya know, sell the car already?"


Either way, just wanted to say I support VTT products. Especially their new F RB turbos... with the V BAND housing!! The online checkout for choosing which compressor housing should read: V Band(Recommended. add our outlets you twit) and Hose Barb(if you must... comes with complimentary can of aquanet and a box of bandaids, if you have to ask why, click option 1) I feel this is just the right way to go about things. I know i bought new outlets when i bought my GC lites, and there were no issues with the the MMP outlets I had.

 

[shushikiary]

After going large single bottom mount, I found that getting the hot side charge pipe, inlet, and water pump hoses to all go into place and and play nice was quite a bit harder than getting the VTT hot side charge pipe to work.

In my opinion the key is to treat it like its something you're trying to get all the bolt holes to line up on, never tighten any bolt/clamp until they are ALL on. that way you can adjust it as needed until it's all connected, then you go and tighten everything.

And yes it pays off, this car (especially for the price) is the fastest car I've ever driven.

I just blew 3 ring lands after running 28 PSI on a GTX3582R gen II for almost a year, so now a built motor is going in, so I just pulled the motor out of the car and I'm rebuilding the transmission and transfer case while I'm at it. New motor should easily hit 700whp at 25 psi as I'm getting the full head job done with ferrera oversized valves and shrick high lift cams as well as rods/pistons/crank bearings, etc.


And my general experience with those pinch clamps is they don't work. I hate them. Could just be me, some people love them and say they work, but getting the pinch tool down into where you need it is a giant PITA, so you'd have to put all the pinch clamps on before the outlet goes in the car, violating what I just said above about waiting to tighten everything until it's all attached. I've also had them consistently come off later after heat/cold cycles change things and you can't tighten them more later (not enough play and you can't get the tool in there).

I've found that with the T bolt style clamps, you can get to every single one of them (all 7 needed to do all the clamps on the hot side charge pipe) if you use a quarter inch drive socket wrench and a 10 or 11 mm deep socket, if you clock all the clamps in a good position so you can reach it.

 

[fmorelli]

Not sure if a pinch clamp is another term for a radiator screw clamp or constant tension style screw clamp? I only know it as another word for an oetiker clamp, which I don't think we're looking at in this application.

I agree screw clamps can be a challenge in tight spots. 100%. In those situations I've found a few things help:
- Make sure the clamp is sized properly for the application, both diameter and clamp width.
- Dry fit the clamp. Determine the best orientation for the clamp head, and it's clocking location for access and possible interference.
- Use a flex nut driver. Especially on these modern cars, these are absolutely invaluable.
- I use one hand (or finger) to hold the fixed side of the clamp steady (so screw boss does not move). One may need to flex the driver around something in the engine bay to get onto the screw head. I'll sometimes drive the flex driver with one hand and locate the head onto the fastener with the other

What I'm saying is likely obvious to a bunch of people, so yeah, this is for those that don't have much experience with this. I only took the time to address this because I observe that, often, fitting and assembly issues challenge us with these cars, when it comes to reliability.

The flex drivers are handy for all kinds of stuff. I have a full set, from 5mm to 10mm, and for american-sized constant tension clamps, the 1/4" and 5/16" is good to have (also for general work on 'murican cars).

The european brand flex driver sets can get pretty pricey. An alternative may be CTA Tools 1051, which seem reasonably priced and my experience with CTA has been very good quality. Hope this helps!