turbo drain oil scavenge pumps?

The Convert

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looking for some information on who has added a scavenge pump to their turbo oil drain line. I think I was having some issues with my drain line backing up before sending my turbo back to the mfg and am switching out all my lines, adding swaintech coating, and dp, turbo, and manifold blankets when I ut it all back together. I'd also like to add a scavenge setup if I can gather enough good info.
 
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fmorelli

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Wait. Weren't you thinking of selling the car and going to something else?

Filippo
 

langsbr

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Is there a benefit to doing the coating and the blanket? I'd like to see a before/after with the swaintech white lightning. If I had been given the choice, I would've done that on my MMPs.

On the scavenge pump issue, I thought that would only be needed if you had a rear or low mount turbo. Shouldn't gravity drain be sufficient for any and all N54 setups? What about using the larger drain lines like RB offers, though I'm sure you're running a single. You might be able to modify them or use one?
 

dyezak

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Is there a benefit to doing the coating and the blanket? I'd like to see a before/after with the swaintech white lightning. If I had been given the choice, I would've done that on my MMPs.

On the scavenge pump issue, I thought that would only be needed if you had a rear or low mount turbo. Shouldn't gravity drain be sufficient for any and all N54 setups? What about using the larger drain lines like RB offers, though I'm sure you're running a single. You might be able to modify them or use one?

 

The Convert

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Is there a benefit to doing the coating and the blanket? I'd like to see a before/after with the swaintech white lightning. If I had been given the choice, I would've done that on my MMPs.

On the scavenge pump issue, I thought that would only be needed if you had a rear or low mount turbo. Shouldn't gravity drain be sufficient for any and all N54 setups? What about using the larger drain lines like RB offers, though I'm sure you're running a single. You might be able to modify them or use one?
Doing the coating and blankets will just further reduce heat transmission into the engine bay from the exhaust components.

I have a Motiv single turbo kit and the turbo sits kind of low. I have a -10 drain hose, but it sits almost horizontal/parallel to the ground. So, I just want to add a little more "safety" margin by adding a small sump, scavenge pump, and some dry break quick disconnect lines for easy, tool free, future R&R, should I need to pull the turbo again.

@Erichale77 dont you have a scavenge pump setup?
 

Sshec152

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Doing the coating and blankets will just further reduce heat transmission into the engine bay from the exhaust components.

I have a Motiv single turbo kit and the turbo sits kind of low. I have a -10 drain hose, but it sits almost horizontal/parallel to the ground. So, I just want to add a little more "safety" margin by adding a small sump, scavenge pump, and some dry break quick disconnect lines for easy, tool free, future R&R, should I need to pull the turbo again.

@Erichale77 dont you have a scavenge pump setup?
A scavenge pump is just a bandaid, install the turbo properly
 

Erichale77

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As some might know I have a custom twin scroll bottom mount. And yes the turbo is clocked correctly. But after the car is shut off and turbo is still hot, some oil may pool up in the drain line so the scavenge pump stays running for a bit after motor is shut off and it comes on when I open my door before I start the car to remove any excess oil that may be in drain line.
 

The Convert

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As some might know I have a custom twin scroll bottom mount. And yes the turbo is clocked correctly. But after the car is shut off and turbo is still hot, some oil may pool up in the drain line so the scavenge pump stays running for a bit after motor is shut off and it comes on when I open my door before I start the car to remove any excess oil that may be in drain line.
Do you mind sharing some info on your setup and some pics?
 

Erichale77

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FullSizeR (3).jpg I run a Mocal pump that can run dry (important) 20160418_121200.jpg
 
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The Convert

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View attachment 12816 I run a Mocal pump that can run dry (important) View attachment 12815
  1. Are you running the suction side straight off the turbo drain, or through a sump first?
  2. Are you returning the oil back to one of the OEM return ports?
  3. Where are you running the electrical wires to?
  4. How do you have it setup to come on with the lpfp on door open, but stay on with the waterpump and after shut down?
Appreciate your help on this. You have it out and running yet, or still working on more of the build?
 

The Convert

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@martymil I saw you had a small sump and weldon pump, but have since removed and put a fitting in the oil pan. How is that working with the line returning the oil below the oil level in the pan? Why did you delete the pump and sump?
 

martymil

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I've been working with the fabricator on a different setup, the pump needed a controller to match suction to the oil flow of the turbo to the pump as it was too powerful and sucked the turbo cartridge dry and killed the first turbo. We did have a sump on it and breather not to create vacuum but it wasn't enough. (if your going to run a scavenge pump make sure the breather is at least the same size as the drain) and match the suction of the pump to the flow of oil coming from the drain)

We are on another setup right now and it should be ready for testing in a few weeks.

We tried it without the sump and pump but if the car wasn't level at night time it would smoke first thing in the morning as the cartridge was only around 5mm above sump oil level.
 

JuniorB

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Ive replaced many turbos on heavy equipment over the years and find there is never a drain situation. These are T6 Garretts -4 feed 5/8 steel perforated pipe to the block. These factory td03 turbos run the same drain as feed, I can see this being an issue already, bump up the psi to 15- 20+ now there's issues. Now your swapping over to a bigger chra, trying to use oem drains. For all the turbo builds out there, how can turbos that are rated to run at a low 8psi, run a much substantial 19+, utilize the oem drains? I know there are numerous reads about this, but if your drain isn't empty like it should be, the turbo's clocked wrong.
 

JuniorB

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I know there are thousands of threads about drains, I'm willing to bet with the hybrids out there, spinning much faster, the drain issue is more common than people are willing to bet. Even the stock lines are way to small in my opinion for drains. Is there anyone out there running bigger with the oem chras?
 

Erichale77

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I have the suction side straight off turbo drain and return into fitting welded into oil pan. It's wired off the door pin that turns on interior lights when door is opened and it shuts off when interior lights shut off, which is delayed a bit. I had wide body flares installed and they're primed and ready to be painted. Can only work on car on the weekends due to work. Once that is finished i'm installing custom fuel system as stage 3 wasn't enough.
 
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The Convert

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I have the suction side straight off turbo drain and return into fitting welded into oil pan. It's wired off the door pin that turns on interior lights when door is opened and it shuts off when interior lights shut off, which is delayed a bit. I had wide body flares installed and they're primed and ready to be painted. Can only work on car on the weekends due to work. Once that is finished i'm installing custom fuel system as stage 3 wasn't enough.
Sounds like you're getting really close!
 

martymil

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Ive replaced many turbos on heavy equipment over the years and find there is never a drain situation. These are T6 Garretts -4 feed 5/8 steel perforated pipe to the block. These factory td03 turbos run the same drain as feed, I can see this being an issue already, bump up the psi to 15- 20+ now there's issues. Now your swapping over to a bigger chra, trying to use oem drains. For all the turbo builds out there, how can turbos that are rated to run at a low 8psi, run a much substantial 19+, utilize the oem drains? I know there are numerous reads about this, but if your drain isn't empty like it should be, the turbo's clocked wrong.

Ive replaced many turbos on heavy equipment over the years and find there is never a drain situation. These are T6 Garretts -4 feed 5/8 steel perforated pipe to the block. These factory td03 turbos run the same drain as feed, I can see this being an issue already, bump up the psi to 15- 20+ now there's issues. Now your swapping over to a bigger chra, trying to use oem drains. For all the turbo builds out there, how can turbos that are rated to run at a low 8psi, run a much substantial 19+, utilize the oem drains? I know there are numerous reads about this, but if your drain isn't empty like it should be, the turbo's clocked wrong.

I don't think you know our setup, the turbo sits below oil level because its rhd and the steering column is in the way, we have no choice but to run a scavange pump on our single kit.