Solid engine mount with rubber spacer?

Torgus

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Car is manual with idle already raised due to the clutch chatter.

Weird, I have the(80a) and basically zero NVH with idle at 1k. I can't imagine that some people have that much of a different level of NVH observance. It is also hard to install them wrong.

What do you mean "Can't hear shit"? Like the engine now makes a lot more noise or something?
 
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SLOWESTN54

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Weird, I have the(80a) and basically zero NVH with idle at 1k. I can't imagine that some people have that much of a different level of NVH observance. It is also hard to install them wrong.

What do you mean "Can't hear shit"? Like the engine now makes a lot more noise or something?
When i changed my trans mounts the vibration was so loud i could no longer hear my exhaust. Plus you run solid diff mounts and say they aren't bad were as the average guy thinks their horriblešŸ˜‚
 
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Torgus

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When i changed my trans mounts the vibration was so loud i could no longer hear my exhaust. Plus you run solid diff mounts and say they aren't bad were as the average guy thinks their horriblešŸ˜‚

Hah!

@fmorelli has them and many others and they give the exact same report as me. Barely any NVH from the revshift 80A and they really firm the MM/engine up. Then others claim it causes horrible NVH? I don't understand to be honest. All I can think is they were shipped the 95A poly pucks perhaps? Those should be MUCH firmer. Or they notice NVH a TON more than others? I don't get it. You can't install them 'wrong' other than not using the locktite, tq'ing the bolt down, and not using the sock but none should change the NVH...there is no noticeable noise difference in the cabin I am aware of because of the revshift MMs?

Any change to transmission mounts results in tons of NVH unless you go with the Rogue ones which are just a bit stiffer than stock/m3 and firm things up nicely. Any of the Poly U or those useless enforcer metal cups etc. add a TON of NVH. Completely unneeded imo.

Solid rear diff mounts only add N no V or H. At least in my case, all I got was diff whine. It is annoying to some and I would not want it in a DD. Solid subframe and diff mounts really tighten up the rear end and make it feel much more predictable and 'solid' if that makes sense. I think most of that firmness comes from the solid subframe bushings but I had both done at the same time.

It is weird the conflicting reports about the RevShift MMs. Again, all I can think of is they shipped/colored the wrong poly puck.

PowerFlex_Durometer_ShoreScales.jpg


examples-shore-scale.jpg



S.H-Scale.jpg



There is a large difference between 80A and 95A in my opinion. Again the different durometer is the only thing I can think of that would explain one group saying basically zero NVH and the other saying they now "Can't Hear Shit" with the revshift 80A.
 
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fmorelli

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Any change to transmission mounts results in tons of NVH unless you go with the Rogue ones which are just a bit stiffer than stock/m3 and firm things up nicely. Any of the Poly U or those useless enforcer metal cups etc. add a TON of NVH. Completely unneeded imo.
I'm running the Rogue Engineering rubber trans mounts ... they are meaty (way more rubber than factory), and my setup is quite reasonable NVH wise.
 

rac

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to update, i've ended up using the solid turner mounts with a cut out rubber matt as per post #16. no significant nvh increase for me, maybe i got used to failed mounts without realising it. thought it could be bad, did not eventuate. car cranks and starts without shaking the car now... which is nice.

got some vtt mount inserts to sell (never used) if someone is in the market for those.