Rear end refresh

[twinturbos]

Hey guys, currently at a bit over 100,000 miles and I'm getting some parts to do a refresh to the rear end. I already bought the revshift trailing arms and solid subframe bushings. I will most likely buy the M3 control arms to go with this.
Which toe arms are you guys running ?
What else would yo recommend replacing while in there ( say with aftermarket performance parts ) as I plan to replace almost everything with new good quality parts?

 

[Torgus]

You are going to drop the subframe to install the metal solid subframe bushings. While in there you might consider:

1) Replace the 2 middle brake lines with stainless steel version.
2) Install aftermarket LSD and code out e diff
3) Solid diff bushings and diff lockdown kit.
4) If you replace the rear lower arms with M3 arms you then need M3 rear struts etc.
5) Shock/strut mounts lower and upper. Replace w/ OEM or upgrade to aftermarket.
5) If you were going to install an aftermarket rear sway bar or modify your stock bar now is the time. If you do a sway bar change then you want to look at the end links and if you should replace/upgrade
6) Perhaps reach out to @barry@3DM He can give you a few options as well as upgrading to ball joints on basically all of the arms and getting rid of the rubber bushings.

Plenty of options and ways to spend money on the rear end. This is what I did for my rear suspension: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/3dm-motorsports-ohlins-suspension-review.5817/

 

[finnporter]

@Torgus Is it possible to partially drop the subframe to install the solid subframe bushings? I'm going through a differential and subframe refresh as well next month.

I was going to follow this DIY here https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802073 but I see people on YouTube just drop the whole thing.

 

[Torgus]

@Torgus Is it possible to partially drop the subframe to install the solid subframe bushings? I'm going through a differential and subframe refresh as well next month.

I was going to follow this DIY here https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802073 but I see people on YouTube just drop the whole thing.

Maybe? I think it is easier to just drop the whole subframe and be done with it.

What does your user name mean? https://twitter.com/finnporter?lang=en

 

[finnporter]

Damn... how'd you find me?! My old school parents were disappointed in me for sure, no doubt. Kidding, no hate for the LGBTQ btw, my username doesn't have any meaning and isn't my real name haha. If we ever meet for an east coast car meet or something, I'm actually a scrawny Asian dude.

Thanks for the tip, I guess I have to weigh my options soon.

 

[Cruizinmax]

@Torgus Is it possible to partially drop the subframe to install the solid subframe bushings? I'm going through a differential and subframe refresh as well next month.

I was going to follow this DIY here https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802073 but I see people on YouTube just drop the whole thing.

I did solid bushings on mine in the car. Not that bad at all besides the ebay tool I got used all thread that stripped so I had to make a trip to get larger and stronger all thread to complete the job. Wouldn't have been an issue pressing in anything else besides solid aluminum bushings. They were tight for sure.

 

[derekgates]

Sheesh. I went whiteline bushings for my subframe. I dropped it slightly and used heat + weight of car and a holesaw to push out old bushings. The Whitelines are two piece and it was trivial to install them.

Not a fan of dropping the rear.... so much work.

 

[syn909]

I did solid bushings on mine in the car. Not that bad at all besides the ebay tool I got used all thread that stripped so I had to make a trip to get larger and stronger all thread to complete the job. Wouldn't have been an issue pressing in anything else besides solid aluminum bushings. They were tight for sure.

@Cruizinmax Which ebay tool did you use? What do you mean by "all" thread? Thanks

 

[syn909]

Hey guys, currently at a bit over 100,000 miles and I'm getting some parts to do a refresh to the rear end. I already bought the revshift trailing arms and solid subframe bushings. I will most likely buy the M3 control arms to go with this.
Which toe arms are you guys running ?
What else would yo recommend replacing while in there ( say with aftermarket performance parts ) as I plan to replace almost everything with new good quality parts?

I just recently replaced my toe arms with the newTurner arms that come with lockout bolts, best deal on the market! PS: Dont bother with the dust boots add on

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-...-adjustable-toe-links/018139tms03~dk/?pdk=AwY

 

[Cruizinmax]

@Cruizinmax Which ebay tool did you use? What do you mean by "all" thread? Thanks

This was the tool I bought. All thread=threaded rod that goes through the center of the tool. If you were interested I would sell mine. I shouldn't be needing it again. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E82-E9...4e82befd0c8029908c36|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524

 

[syn909]

This was the tool I bought. All thread=threaded rod that goes through the center of the tool. If you were interested I would sell mine. I shouldn't be needing it again.

@Cruizinmax Thanks, I actually have that tool although not used it! Did you lube the threads before you tried to press in the new bushings? Did you use a hand tool or impact? Was it long enough as is besides it getting stripped?

 

[fmorelli]

I did solid bushings on mine in the car. Not that bad at all besides the ebay tool I got used all thread that stripped so I had to make a trip to get larger and stronger all thread to complete the job. Wouldn't have been an issue pressing in anything else besides solid aluminum bushings. They were tight for sure.

The problem is all thread is the wrong material for the job. These kinds of pullers need to use ACME thread. A good quality tool will have an ACME thread rod and nut. Will not die on you. You can buy the threaded rod and nut, upgrade it yourself. Try https://www.mcmaster.com/Acme-Threaded-Rods/acme-lead-screws-and-nuts/

Pressing aluminum into steel sucks. It's tight but the aluminum wants to gall. When I did my aluminum RTAB setup on the Z4 it really sucked. Heat is your friend, or plenty of lube. Make sure the subframe holes are clean. Might even use a bit fo 400 wet dry paper inside and make sure they are smooth.

 

[Cruizinmax]

@Cruizinmax Thanks, I actually have that tool although not used it! Did you lube the threads before you tried to press in the new bushings? Did you use a hand tool or impact? Was it long enough as is besides it getting stripped?

I did lube the threads, hand tools, it was long enough. I also used an actual ball bearing under the nut I was turning which did help reduce the friction but the thread still stripped.

I have no idea the grade of threaded rod but it did not seem very strong regardless. The local hardware store had grade 8 all thread and I increased the size up to 1/2" if I recall. Took care of the remainder of the bushings no problem. Cost about 12.00 for the new all thread, nuts, washers.

 

[Torgus]

The problem is all thread is the wrong material for the job. These kinds of pullers need to use ACME thread. A good quality tool will have an ACME thread rod and nut. Will not die on you. You can buy the threaded rod and nut, upgrade it yourself. Try https://www.mcmaster.com/Acme-Threaded-Rods/acme-lead-screws-and-nuts/

View attachment 50373

Pressing aluminum into steel sucks. It's tight but the aluminum wants to gall. When I did my aluminum RTAB setup on the Z4 it really sucked. Heat is your friend, or plenty of lube. Make sure the subframe holes are clean. Might even use a bit fo 400 wet dry paper inside and make sure they are smooth.

Exactly. This is the thread you find on spring compressors for instance etc.

 

[twinturbos]

I just recently replaced my toe arms with the newTurner arms that come with lockout bolts, best deal on the market! PS: Dont bother with the dust boots add on

Turner Adjustable Toe Arms - E82/E9X M

Turner Adjustable Toe Arms - E82/E9X M

www.turnermotorsport.com

Does this fit non-m?

 

[finnporter]

@twinturbos I want to speculate no, I think the mounting points are slightly different on the E9x M3 versus the 335i. For aftermarket camber/toe arms, I learned from grassroots drift and autox guys, that they're mostly all the same. If you could find one with a locking nut, they help prevent self adjustment after hard track use. If not, you'll have to monitor your alignment every now and then. I monitored mine after every track event when Firestone California had unlimited alignment deals, no alignment changes, but I didn't track every week like rich 16 year olds do when a car like the 335i reaches $3k - $5k USD and treats them like guard rail missiles. It's the best entertainment ever but such a shame lol.

 

[syn909]

Does this fit non-m?

No but these do sorry had the wrong link in prior post (since updated it) : https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-...-adjustable-toe-links/018139tms03~dk/?pdk=AwY

 

[NoQuarter]

Exactly. This is the thread you find on spring compressors for instance etc.

You mean death machines?

 

[Torgus]

You mean death machines?

View attachment 50669

Exactly.

My good friend almost died back in voc school. Some idiot who was all messed up on drugs used a gun and it shot out and he felt the spring just touch the side of his head. Talk about a brush with death.

Lots of energy in compressed springs. Death trap is right.

 

[highbrowed]

My brother in law was using a spring compressor and it somehow the spring came out, bounced off the wall, and hit him in the face. Shattered his nose.

I don't like spring compressors..