I'm at 950rpm, I can also do that on flat ground if I'm careful. Its just getting used to it being an automated habit in traffic.
Question for the upgraded 6MT guys...
- Thread starter AUbeast86
- Start date
Just FYI guys you don't have to drill out the restrictor, it just punches out so you don't even have to buy them as its a scam.
Use a small Allen key they come right out!
Also, I upped my idle to 1100, 1st is like stock now! Omfg so much better.
I added spacers to my old bms clutch stop. You could just make one up with a bolt and nuts if you wanted. The plastic prong is quite long to add more spacers, but if you space out too far you can't start the car. There must be a switch under there but I couldn't be arsed looking for it upside down so I just found it in the protool app and disabled it.
Like Marty said, only downside is if you try starting with your car in gear....
The CDV can just be removed. There is enough slack in the line, it just plugs right in to the other end without it.
Tried it out and it helped a lot. I have the 3.15 M3 DCT diff
i had 3 rubber spacers originally, and added 2 sets of 2 washers between those.
i'm not convinced about the longevity of the plastic prong with the additional length out and angle at which the clutch hits it, just a feeling, maybe it will snap one day. i just wanted to do a quick fix because the pedal stroke was throwing off my throttle / clutch timing.
a better solution would be a bolt of the appropriate diameter and 2x nuts that way making it infinitely adjustable to your liking and more durable.
with regards to full clutch in, just trial and error while in neutral - depress clutch and listen for the spinning intermediate plate. the spacing i used could easily be increased in my case, the clutch is free quite some way still but not annoyingly so.
I've had a spec 3+ and aluminum flywheel with the cdv and now without and I prefer how it feels with no cdv.
