PR coils are on

veer90

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Every coil vendor tends to exaggerate the spark plug gap their coils are capable of jumping... hell I was recommended 0.031 by Omar for my BL coils. I thought that was a bit excessive and gapped them at 0.028. First pull on the dyno it misfired anyways. lol

I have them at 0.024 now, no issues. NGK 97506s

If you want real plug gap recommendations I would ask a tuner not someone who sells coils.
 

matreyia

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Every coil vendor tends to exaggerate the spark plug gap their coils are capable of jumping... hell I was recommended 0.031 by Omar for my BL coils. I thought that was a bit excessive and gapped them at 0.028. First pull on the dyno it misfired anyways. lol

I have them at 0.024 now, no issues. NGK 97506s

If you want real plug gap recommendations I would ask a tuner not someone who sells coils.

I did the fmorelli's coil modifications on the BL coils kit and got the updated harness. Now over one week on .030 NGK and 70% e85 with no issues. Pulls more than 50% e85 as far as I can tell. Will keep updating as time passes.
 

veer90

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I did the fmorelli's coil modifications on the BL coils kit and got the updated harness. Now over one week on .030 NGK and 70% e85 with no issues. Pulls more than 50% e85 as far as I can tell. Will keep updating as time passes.

Interesting... what turbos / boost? Are you running 1 step or 2 step colder NGKs?

my experience was with MMPs on E85 at 30+ psi and 2 step colder NGKs
 

V8bait

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The PR boots are a tight fit. Work great for most but not exactly oem ease of install, you don't want them coming off once on but if you're not careful (and even if you are in some cases) they are so tight they can break. PR has really gone all in on this issue and completely designed a new boot and that should fix it for good.

As far as gap goes, the difference between a .018 and .024 gap at high power is nearly 2x the voltage or more. If OEM can do 30kV, then 60kV despite being significantly stronger isn't twice the gap. The total energy is also a factor, because gap isn't everything. It's always a balance, but more powerful is always good lol.
 
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fmorelli

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PR has really gone all in on this issue and completely designed a new boot and that should fix it for good.
If one orders a PR set today, are the new boots in use? If not any idea when they will be sold with the boot revision?

Filppo
 

Narcosis

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Damn connector fell apart in the boot!?$&%#

When I removed the boot the connector stayed with the plug. Things happen, I've pinged Robert @ PR for input. The OEM coils I replaced 2 years ago are back in the car with a set of used 95770's @ .022.
 

Narcosis

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Every coil vendor tends to exaggerate the spark plug gap their coils are capable of jumping... hell I was recommended 0.031 by Omar for my BL coils. I thought that was a bit excessive and gapped them at 0.028. First pull on the dyno it misfired anyways. lol

I have them at 0.024 now, no issues. NGK 97506s

If you want real plug gap recommendations I would ask a tuner not someone who sells coils.

I'm responding to the quote in your signature - I *am* one of those old people... :)
 
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fmorelli

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The PR boots are a tight fit. Work great for most but not exactly oem ease of install, you don't want them coming off once on but if you're not careful (and even if you are in some cases) they are so tight they can break. PR has really gone all in on this issue and completely designed a new boot and that should fix it for good.

When I removed the boot the connector stayed with the plug. Things happen, I've pinged Robert @ PR for input. The OEM coils I replaced 2 years ago are back in the car with a set of used 95770's @ .022.

I believe the kit I received utilizes the new boots. Comparing what I've got on the bench with the image on the PR website they do appear slightly physically different.

If these three statements are all on point, does that mean the fix may not fix the issue? Or @Narcosis do you have any thoughts on the failure (e.g., QC anamoly, user error, etc)

Filippo
 

Narcosis

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Dec 14, 2016
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If these three statements are all on point, does that mean the fix may not fix the issue? Or @Narcosis do you have any thoughts on the failure (e.g., QC anamoly, user error, etc)

Filippo

@fmorelli - Honestly it could have been user error or it could have been a slip in QA, hard to say. I used the same installation and extraction method for all of the boots, the one that failed was difficult to remove. There wasn't undue pressure applied to it when installing. When I get a replacement part from PR there will be some testing done with gaps again, this time around with plenty of tune-up grease... :)
 

fmorelli

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Thanks. I'm in the zip code of ordering. I've now changed ignition systems four times and only want to do it one more time ... would prefer not to do it any more :tonguewink:.

Filippo
 

matreyia

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Thanks. I'm in the zip code of ordering. I've now changed ignition systems four times and only want to do it one more time ... would prefer not to do it any more :tonguewink:.

Filippo
So your modified coils aren't working still? Mine work like insane... it seems there is no limit to what I throw at it now that the coils are fully seated. I am quite amazed.

At over 70% e85 and .030 gap NGK 59770... running insane... the more ethanol, the faster it goes... today did a wheel spin when in grandma mode in third gear on the on ramp.... wtf??? I don't even use sport mode anymore. I can't drive it safely.
 
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matreyia

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I'm just down on the whole thing.

Filippo

Sometimes we gotta get past emotions and stick with logic. You don't have to like a company personally... if something works then use it until it breaks. Then look elsewhere for replacement.

New harness is ok. Better than old one but connectors still 3d printed. Although it appears to be higher resolution and density than old connectors.
 

shushikiary

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Jun 4, 2018
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On my PR coil set I originally ran a 0.030 gap, ran for about a week then miss fires. Gapped it down to .022 and no issues. Still that way on 97506's at 26.5 PSI with 10 degrees of timing on 100% E85. I've not tried the dielectric grease, but I also dont have any marks on my coils from arcing like shown, if I do I'll use some.

What I have experienced though is what people are talking about with the plugs. I have to use a pair of pliers to put them on and take them off. I've learned a procedure to it to make it work or else I destroy them. To put them on, I slide them on as far as I can by hand, then put the pliers on the blue center part right at the base of the rubber skirt, pinch down decently and push until "click!" its on. To get them off I have to pull the skirt up so its up around the blue center line and grab with the pliers around the base of the skirt that is now exposed so I can use the rubber AND the blue center wire to pull it up at the same time. Then it usually comes off without me destroying it.

There's a reason I had PR send me an entire second set of plug wires. The guy from PR on the phone thought I was crazy and said I shouldnt need them, but I'm glad I did as I just destroyed another one a few weeks ago and its nice to have 6 spares when I go through one every few months.

I really hope he gets those new plug wires out soon, I'm likely to buy a set if it makes life a lot easier!

Good news is though, with proper gap and making sure the plug wires are on all the way... never a miss fire.
 

matreyia

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Apr 19, 2017
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On my PR coil set I originally ran a 0.030 gap, ran for about a week then miss fires. Gapped it down to .022 and no issues. Still that way on 97506's at 26.5 PSI with 10 degrees of timing on 100% E85. I've not tried the dielectric grease, but I also dont have any marks on my coils from arcing like shown, if I do I'll use some.

What I have experienced though is what people are talking about with the plugs. I have to use a pair of pliers to put them on and take them off. I've learned a procedure to it to make it work or else I destroy them. To put them on, I slide them on as far as I can by hand, then put the pliers on the blue center part right at the base of the rubber skirt, pinch down decently and push until "click!" its on. To get them off I have to pull the skirt up so its up around the blue center line and grab with the pliers around the base of the skirt that is now exposed so I can use the rubber AND the blue center wire to pull it up at the same time. Then it usually comes off without me destroying it.

There's a reason I had PR send me an entire second set of plug wires. The guy from PR on the phone thought I was crazy and said I shouldnt need them, but I'm glad I did as I just destroyed another one a few weeks ago and its nice to have 6 spares when I go through one every few months.

I really hope he gets those new plug wires out soon, I'm likely to buy a set if it makes life a lot easier!

Good news is though, with proper gap and making sure the plug wires are on all the way... never a miss fire.


Dude... I can say with absolute certainty that you are doing it wrong. Put the grease on the ceramics so you don't continue to stress your boots when removing and installing, two main reasons, equally important EQUALLY IMPORTANT that professionals use grease is arc prevention and preventing damage to boots upon removal. If you need pliers to remove or install your boots, it is one of the symptoms of not using the grease. You are putting undue stress on the components and will need to replace them often, then you will blame manufacturer design flaws... not cool.

And if you been using your coils without grease, it doesn't matter if you can't see visible arc scars, they are internal. I guarantee you have damaged plugs and coils by this point that you cannot see and your coils are not functioning 100% capacity. I would take a guess and say that after one week of running .030 gap without grease, your plugs and coils were damaged to the point of misfire with no visible scars. They still work, but they are damaged to the point that they cannot sustain .030 gap anymore, that is proof that they are less efficient due to internal damage.

Why do you think they could do .030 for a week then suddenly they couldn't? It took that time to fry the internals due to lack of grease insulation. The grease is insurance against arc damage, it is an insulator and protects your internals which are not designed to work with stray pathways.

I recommend that you get new coils, new plugs and never ever fail to use grease when installing plugs. Your plugs and coils will thank you, reward you with the proper power and response and your boots will last 10x longer.
 
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