Need some advice and opinions on my build, ST bottom mount 650whp

[Snowman]

I'm considering returning to the N54 platform mainly because i enjoy wrenching and am thinking of getting one as a project car.
The goal with the car would be to achieve above 700hp in the engine (which we measure in europe for some reason), which would be like 600-650whp i guess.
First of, would this be even remotely realistic to achieve and run without blowing up the engine on the second pull?

The car will be used for some events and for some fun driving. The plan is to run some sort of E85 blend and about 500-550whp for "daily" spirited drives but i want the ability to go all out and have the full 700+ at some events.

Secondly, im choosing between an 6-speed ZF auto or the manual. Ofc the manual would be safer but also require more upgrades.
Could the ZF 6-speed gearbox cope with this power if i run XHP stg 3 and add a BMS transmission cooler?
Or am i asking for trouble with going for an auto?

The reciepe for this would be:
Find a manual or auto car with less then 100k miles
Some sort of E85 blend
Routine maintenance, any leaks fixed, injectors, water pump, belts etc.
Speedtech bottom mount with suitable turbo
BMS race ic
BPM4 controller for fuel pumps
Dual walbro 450 or 525+450 combo
CP with bov
PCV upgrades
3,5bar tmap
2step colder spark plugs

Would you recommend jb4 for boost control or go 100% MHD and buy some sort of ebc?
Coils, would it be possible to run this with some sort of stock coils or should i just get Bimmerlife or Precision coils?

I'm thinking of getting the Helix hpfp overdrive or going for PI, what do you guys recommend?

What am i forgetting about?
Is this a bad idea throughout or possibly a fun build?

 

[RuskiRacer]

If you have to get a auto gearbox you'll want to keep the torque around 500 if you wanna keep it alive and make it come on later in the rpm otherwise get a manual and get a spec stage3+ clutch and you'll be good up to 650 wheel torque. Get the precision race works coils and the helix overdrive. The internals will handle 700 whp if you dont bounce it off the limiter and abuse it excessively. Also you will want a limited slip diff. Sounds like you have a great project in mind and encourage you to go through with your plan

 

[Snowman]

If you have to get a auto gearbox you'll want to keep the torque around 500 if you wanna keep it alive and make it come on later in the rpm otherwise get a manual and get a spec stage3+ clutch and you'll be good up to 650 wheel torque. Get the precision race works coils and the helix overdrive. The internals will handle 700 whp if you dont bounce it off the limiter and abuse it excessively. Also you will want a limited slip diff. Sounds like you have a great project in mind and encourage you to go through with your plan

Thanks for your reply!

So would you recommend me to go for an auto or simply try to get a manual?
I have a feeling that the manual is the safer way to go but also more expensive. It would also leave some room if the build would continue in the future..

What's about boost control?
Would it be better to go full mhd and boost control through a boostbox/ebc or use the jb4?

 

[Rob09msport]

700hp at crank should not be issue for auto or dct cause that's more like 550 whp even 600 is very doable if trans is healthy esp cause you plan on dd at 550hp crank.

 

[RuskiRacer]

Thanks for your reply!

So would you recommend me to go for an auto or simply try to get a manual?
I have a feeling that the manual is the safer way to go but also more expensive. It would also leave some room if the build would continue in the future..

What's about boost control?
Would it be better to go full mhd and boost control through a boostbox/ebc or use the jb4?

Manual will be a little more expensive but I think in the long run you won't regret it I have a auto that I'm trying to sell for that reason that manual is just more fun to drive even with slightly less power for now. But to control boost get the motiv boostbox and mhd that is what I would do if I went single.

 

[tisdrew]

Unlikely to do this with stock coil packs. I had to upgrade my delphis to PR coil packs -- was hitting ignition drops ~23-25psi on upgraded twins. To run higher consistently requires PR.

I'd personally recommend you go with port injection -- the helix pump is still in beta and we have no if they'll flow past the current highest number at 602whp -- which wasn't fully e85 but a blend...The VTT double shotgun can flow enough for 700 but for the price, port injection wins.

MHD for tuning imo. Boost box or the GFB GForce alternative, heard success with both.

I personally have a manual, but if you're open to the auto it'll handle 600 tq but require some upkeep whereas the manual only requires the spec 3+ clutch.

Dual 450's will be enough fuel.

 

[RuskiRacer]

Unlikely to do this with stock coil packs. I had to upgrade my delphis to PR coil packs -- was hitting ignition drops ~23-25psi on upgraded twins. To run higher consistently requires PR.

I'd personally recommend you go with port injection -- the helix pump is still in beta and we have no if they'll flow past the current highest number at 602whp -- which wasn't fully e85 but a blend...The VTT double shotgun can flow enough for 700 but for the price, port injection wins.

MHD for tuning imo. Boost box or the GFB GForce alternative, heard success with both.

I personally have a manual, but if you're open to the auto it'll handle 600 tq but require some upkeep whereas the manual only requires the spec 3+ clutch.

Dual 450's will be enough fuel.

I have to disagree with you on the helix I've seen it work first hand 2 close friends of mine have it it's capable of running full e85 on 27 psi on a 6266 so whatever 27 psi is in the Dyno at least 600whp it's good for that port injection will be harder to tune then the helix

 

[tisdrew]

Helix is the new kid on the block which is why I don't feel comfortable recommending it to someone else. Pretty much everything we've heard is like your story, a "friend runs it". It's only been quasi-announced for the last month and Spool themselves haven't posted data. I know one guy in my local bmw group ran it and I'm interested to see it perform on FB/forums but at the moment, we don't have the full story or an official release. I would be ecstatic to run this Helix solution on my car -- but I'm unwilling to be a beta tester. We'll have to wait and see how the unit performs across hundreds/thousands of cars of varying levels. Currently, PI is supported by nearly all the professional n54 tuners whereas Helix is only tunable by a handful (wedge, jake, shoup?). I hope in the future this changes.

 

[Torgus]

I vote get a manual. It will be less of a hassle in the long run and more fun to drive.

 

[RuskiRacer]

Helix is the new kid on the block which is why I don't feel comfortable recommending it to someone else. Pretty much everything we've heard is like your story, a "friend runs it". It's only been quasi-announced for the last month and Spool themselves haven't posted data. I know one guy in my local bmw group ran it and I'm interested to see it perform on FB/forums but at the moment, we don't have the full story or an official release. I would be ecstatic to run this Helix solution on my car -- but I'm unwilling to be a beta tester. We'll have to wait and see how the unit performs across hundreds/thousands of cars of varying levels. Currently, PI is supported by nearly all the professional n54 tuners whereas Helix is only tunable by a handful (wedge, jake, shoup?). I hope in the future this changes.

The helix is not a hard mod to tune there's just not many tuners tuning it I would rather stay DI only and not have a PI controller and everything that goes with it and then run the chance of a PI injector not turning off and blowing your motor but that's just the reason I am biased to the helix I've seen it work first hand wonderfully but time will tell if the helix has it's bugs and what they are.

 

[Rob09msport]

Dont people tune single barrels all the time ?
And as far as trans if looking for track performance all around auto way to go if no strip then dct best , both those manual last . If you want to have fun with car and like manual go for it you should be able to keep dmfw for those power levels and just do a good clutch. Now future upgrade wise someone just made 900whp on a freshly rebuilt zf6 with slight slipping that's how much xhp helps. You can do a pd kit or their are guys that machine down the frictions and steels to fit extra and increase torque holding. Basically this platform has reached a point where their are finally options fit everyone, If you want manual get it if you are truly impartial then get the best deal you can as far as engine, trans, body condition cause if you want run stock block you need healthy engine. Otherwise buy a pos to save money and build it .

 

[SJ_1989]

Manual for me. I had an auto for 6 months then sold for a manual. However, that was long before any trans flashing was available and single turbo kits weren't even out yet.

Dont people tune single barrels all the time ?

I could be wrong but I've never heard of anyone getting a tune for a single barrel. Given that the tables are still in discovery/testing that tells me the single barrel isn't tuned. Don't quite understand why the helix needs tuned then unless the single barrel should be tuned and nobody does it.

***EDIT****
See here about tuning helix.

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

I could be wrong but I've never heard of anyone getting a tune for a single barrel. Given that the tables are still in discovery/testing that tells me the single barrel isn't tuned. Don't quite understand why the helix needs tuned then unless the single barrel should be tuned and nobody does it.

Discussed, and according to Tony there really is no need to tune a Single Barrel.

Reset all the fueling adaptions, and let the DME learn. It will be wonky until it does so, then it will adapt as it should, then work flawlessly. Generally speaking, the only time we see issues on the SB is when you have:

A. Failing HPFP, and try to use a shotgun to fix that, or
B. Insufficient LPFP flow feeding the shotgun.

Now, some people go in and adjust the rail pressure up or down to their liking, hold it flat to redline, etc. That’s between you and your tuner/tune goals. It’s not required though (and never has been).

Chris

 

[Snowman]

Thanks for all the replies!
So if i would keep the stock dmfw, what clutch should i go for?
I was under the impression that everyone swapping clutches got a smfw?

Discussed, and according to Tony there really is no need to tune a Single Barrel.

Reset all the fueling adaptions, and let the DME learn. It will be wonky until it does so, then it will adapt as it should, then work flawlessly. Generally speaking, the only time we see issues on the SB is when you have:

A. Failing HPFP, and try to use a shotgun to fix that, or
B. Insufficient LPFP flow feeding the shotgun.

Now, some people go in and adjust the rail pressure up or down to their liking, hold it flat to redline, etc. That’s between you and your tuner/tune goals. It’s not required though (and never has been).

Chris

Whats the status on your bottom mounted turbo kit for the N54?
Tried reaching out to you guys but i've not received any reply yet.