N55 Turbo Side Intake Progress

houtan

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Nov 2, 2017
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I believe that connector is still attached. I've just tucked it into the AC lines near the front passenger side of the engine bay. How come?
Thanks. Starting to think about how I want to execute a similar setup and father a parts list and was planning to zip tie the plug somewhere but remove the stock pcv hose. But I heard that will kill my battery for some reason. Is that why you left it plugged in and ticked the hose somewhere?

I just want to run a hose from the valve cover to the intake pipe and get rid of the factory hose.
 

Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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2011 335i E92
@Alturiak any updates on your low boost issue? Also, how easy is it to put the factory intake back on and do a back to back dyno of the two? I'm super curious if you gain flow as well as it looking better.

One last question, did you have to have the MAF table revised for the new intake design? For some reason I recall reading that changing diameter or was it length, it was a good idea to recalibrate the table. I dunno, maybe I'm just thinking it and didn't read it.
As of right now the low boost issue is unresolved. Currently there's a vacuum leak bad enough to throw idle lean codes, but before that I got to a point where it was "good enough" and I was residing to my PS2 is just super worn and had a very rough life while I had a JB4 lol. I was ignorant to WGDC parameters at that time and blindly trusted Terry checking my logs and telling me everything looked awesome meanwhile my turbo was being forced at 99% every time I went WOT to hit 26psi peak and tapered to 22-23psi at redline.

But I did recently get a Amazon smoke machine so I will try smoking it myself at the turbo and get under the car to try to identify for sure where specifically it's leaking from. That was my main show stopper last time I was crusading for my WGDC. I got to where no vacuum leaks could be found with a smoke machine, and once I moved to pumping the smoke straight into my turbo inlet (in preparation to pressure test the whole system) there would be a bunch coming from the turbo area but it was not coming from the inlet connection or at the TIC connection. The shop was basically letting me do everything for free at that time and didn't have availability to let me get on a lift to see from under the car where the smoke was coming from. But at that point the car was boosting well enough and I was tired of being back at the shop every week and getting to the same conclusion that required being under the car while it was getting smoked.

As far as the MAF table goes, I'm not sure what Justin (Twisted Tuning) did for it. When I moved to this setup I was having hpfp crashing issues so I thought he was mainly adjusting fueling so the car would be happy. I chose a 3.5" tube for the intake though since it's already what the Injen intake system uses, and it was the closest size to working with the silicone inlet. With an 1/8" wall thickness that made the ID 3.25". I wanted to minimize detrimental volumetric differences though since I know the MAF equations are all based off the OEM design. If I remember right though, the OEM design ended up equating to somewhere close to 3.25" diameter tubing based on the circumference close to the MAF port location.
 
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Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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Thanks. Starting to think about how I want to execute a similar setup and father a parts list and was planning to zip tie the plug somewhere but remove the stock pcv hose. But I heard that will kill my battery for some reason. Is that why you left it plugged in and ticked the hose somewhere?

I just want to run a hose from the valve cover to the intake pipe and get rid of the factory hose.
Ahh I see. I completely forgot the reason, I just remember when I did my BMS OCC their instructions was to only tuck it out of the way somewhere and then leave it otherwise it'll mess some things up. I wonder how the internal circuit works though like if it's a simple continuity based thing like the brake sensor or if it's more involved.

Are you running an OCC or just routing straight from your PCV back to your intake?

The silicone hose I'm using on my setup is actually really great for connecting to the PCV port. It's stretchy enough to fit over the port and the fit is so tight you don't need to use hose clamps or zip ties to keep it there. I don't think it's anything particularly special, but I got it from siliconeintakes.com
 
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houtan

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Nov 2, 2017
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Ahh I see. I completely forgot the reason, I just remember when I did my BMS OCC their instructions was to only tuck it out of the way somewhere and then leave it otherwise it'll mess some things up. I wonder how the internal circuit works though like if it's a simple continuity based thing like the brake sensor or if it's more involved.

Are you running an OCC or just routing straight from your PCV back to your intake?

The silicone hose I'm using on my setup is actually really great for connecting to the PCV port. It's stretchy enough to fit over the port and the fit is so tight you don't need to use hose clamps or zip ties to keep it there. I don't think it's anything particularly special, but I got it from siliconeintakes.com
Yeah that is where I saw it too. Honestly that would drive me crazy. But I’m wondering if they say that in their video because it was a nuance of the JB4 and possibly the issue doesn’t exist if you are flash only. I guess there’s only one way to find out so I will be unplugging that little heater to see what happens
 

Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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Yeah that is where I saw it too. Honestly that would drive me crazy. But I’m wondering if they say that in their video because it was a nuance of the JB4 and possibly the issue doesn’t exist if you are flash only. I guess there’s only one way to find out so I will be unplugging that little heater to see what happens
That is an excellent point. I forgot about how many annoying nuances there were to running the JB4... Let me know how it goes when you do it! I'd love to get rid of mine as well if that becomes an option.

Random question and off topic to this main thread, but has anyone here recharged their AC system with one of those ~$60 AC Pro cans you get a AutoZone? I'm super convinced my system could use a recharge since it's never been done but don't want to mess things up lol
 

Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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Quick Update: tried out the amazon smoke machine at home and found several small leaks on my intake setup, leaking from the TIC, and the unidentified leak from the general turbo area. I'll get the TIC and intake leaks taken care of, but while the car is up I'll smoke it again to see if I can get a better view of where the mystery turbo area leak is coming from. Will update in a few days once that is completed.
 
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Torgus

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Quick Update: tried out the amazon smoke machine at home and found several small leaks on my intake setup, leaking from the TIC, and the unidentified leak from the general turbo area. I'll get the TIC and intake leaks taken care of, but while the car is up I'll smoke it again to see if I can get a better view of where the mystery turbo area leak is coming from. Will update in a few days once that is completed.

What product did you use?
 

houtan

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Nov 2, 2017
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That is an excellent point. I forgot about how many annoying nuances there were to running the JB4... Let me know how it goes when you do it! I'd love to get rid of mine as well if that becomes an option.

Random question and off topic to this main thread, but has anyone here recharged their AC system with one of those ~$60 AC Pro cans you get a AutoZone? I'm super convinced my system could use a recharge since it's never been done but don't want to mess things up lol
I wouldn’t do it this way. From what I understand the key to a recharge is to empty out the system first. And to do that you need a special canister to capture the refrigerant. The. You have to connect a vacuum to clear out the system, then add the refrigerant. I watched a few videos about this because I want to do it for a different car. Shops in socal charge 190 for the service. HF has the parts for less. The only thing missing is the tank to capture the refrigerant, but that is pricey and you also need to find a place to dispose it.

Soooo, I have done nothing to see if I can figure out a way to do it myself for a reasonable price. If not just doing to lay the shop. Hopefully that helps lol
 
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wheela

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Quick Update: tried out the amazon smoke machine at home and found several small leaks on my intake setup, leaking from the TIC, and the unidentified leak from the general turbo area. I'll get the TIC and intake leaks taken care of, but while the car is up I'll smoke it again to see if I can get a better view of where the mystery turbo area leak is coming from. Will update in a few days once that is completed.
Thanks for sharing, I'll be excited to hear what you find. I'm currently dealing with (I think) some kind if vac leak, as my idle ltft was like 10%. Then just got my car back yesterday from getting my intake valves walnut blasted, and something must be loose because now ltft at idle is like 15 - 17%😐😐😐
 
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wheela

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Quick Update: tried out the amazon smoke machine at home and found several small leaks on my intake setup, leaking from the TIC, and the unidentified leak from the general turbo area. I'll get the TIC and intake leaks taken care of, but while the car is up I'll smoke it again to see if I can get a better view of where the mystery turbo area leak is coming from. Will update in a few days once that is completed.
Do you have any pics of how you connected this to your intake tract? I gotta get one of these. But I need an air compressor too.
 

Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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I wouldn’t do it this way. From what I understand the key to a recharge is to empty out the system first. And to do that you need a special canister to capture the refrigerant. The. You have to connect a vacuum to clear out the system, then add the refrigerant. I watched a few videos about this because I want to do it for a different car. Shops in socal charge 190 for the service. HF has the parts for less. The only thing missing is the tank to capture the refrigerant, but that is pricey and you also need to find a place to dispose it.

Soooo, I have done nothing to see if I can figure out a way to do it myself for a reasonable price. If not just doing to lay the shop. Hopefully that helps lol
Funny enough I was just watching system recharge videos, and the diy person went to a shop to have his system evacuated first then did everything else on his own. The rest looked pretty straightforward, just need a decent vacuum pump and manifold gauges. Of course I'll probably want to do the UV dye to check if there is an actual leak but something I might tackle next with summer on the horizon.

After I installed the CSF performance radiator a few years ago I've noticed my AC pretty much stops working when the car is stopped/idling but goes back to being nice and cold when driving. Not that bad when it's less than 90F out, but horrible when its 105F. Trying to figure out if it's actually an AC issue or if the increased cooling rate of the radiator tells the DME it doesn't need much or any fan induced airflow. Since the AC condenser fan and radiator fan are the same that may explain it but I'm still trying to figure out some way around it if it is. There's been a lot of little issues that this radiator has caused that I wish CSF put a disclaimer or something on the product page so buyers can at least know what they're getting themselves into when choosing it.
 

Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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Thanks for sharing, I'll be excited to hear what you find. I'm currently dealing with (I think) some kind if vac leak, as my idle ltft was like 10%. Then just got my car back yesterday from getting my intake valves walnut blasted, and something must be loose because now ltft at idle is like 15 - 17%😐😐😐
I feel your pain! I honestly wouldn't be that surprised if they botched your intake manifold gaskets when putting it back on. I had that happen at a shop a little bit ago and it blew my mind how little care was put into putting the car back together properly.

And I didn't take any pics but I'd be happy to if you'd like to see it. I was actually using my PCV return line on the turbo inlet for that. Another shop I've been to though will also use an oil filler cap they've drilled through and put a nozzle on. I ordered one to do the same with as it was pretty effective as well. And I got lucky in that a coworker of mine had a little air compressor he's letting me borrow. If I had more storage room at my apartment or saw myself using air powered things frequently in the future I'd invest in my own though. I know I'll be smoke testing a lot so investing in the smoke machine was pretty easy since most shops charge that price to smoke it once lol
 
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wheela

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I feel your pain! I honestly wouldn't be that surprised if they botched your intake manifold gaskets when putting it back on. I had that happen at a shop a little bit ago and it blew my mind how little care was put into putting the car back together properly.

And I didn't take any pics but I'd be happy to if you'd like to see it. I was actually using my PCV return line on the turbo inlet for that. Another shop I've been to though will also use an oil filler cap they've drilled through and put a nozzle on. I ordered one to do the same with as it was pretty effective as well. And I got lucky in that a coworker of mine had a little air compressor he's letting me borrow. If I had more storage room at my apartment or saw myself using air powered things frequently in the future I'd invest in my own though. I know I'll be smoke testing a lot so investing in the smoke machine was pretty easy since most shops charge that price to smoke it once lold
Do you know how many gallon that air compressor is? I've read that the little pancake ones suck for leak testing, but I don't know🤷‍♂️ Would you say the one you used seemed adequate for the job? I don't want to get a monster just to leak test, but don't want to buy twice because I went too small...
 

Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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Do you know how many gallon that air compressor is? I've read that the little pancake ones suck for leak testing, but I don't know🤷‍♂️ Would you say the one you used seemed adequate for the job? I don't want to get a monster just to leak test, but don't want to buy twice because I went too small...
It's just a baby 1gal compressor. For finding major leaks via smoke testing I'd say it's just fine. I don't even have it plugged in when testing because it's too loud- I just fill it in my apartment then carry it down and let the smoker go until the compressor tank is empty. So far leaks are quite obvious well before the tank is empty. Would a 2gal be nicer? Sure, and that's what I would buy if I was buying one for myself.

Now if you plan to pressure test your system that's entirely different and a 1gal 1hp compressor will definitely not be up to that task lol
 
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wheela

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It's just a baby 1gal compressor. For finding major leaks via smoke testing I'd say it's just fine. I don't even have it plugged in when testing because it's too loud- I just fill it in my apartment then carry it down and let the smoker go until the compressor tank is empty. So far leaks are quite obvious well before the tank is empty. Would a 2gal be nicer? Sure, and that's what I would buy if I was buying one for myself.

Now if you plan to pressure test your system that's entirely different and a 1gal 1hp compressor will definitely not be up to that task lol
Thanks, this is helpful for me😁
 

CalvinNismo

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Nov 1, 2020
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Thanks. Starting to think about how I want to execute a similar setup and father a parts list and was planning to zip tie the plug somewhere but remove the stock pcv hose. But I heard that will kill my battery for some reason. Is that why you left it plugged in and ticked the hose somewhere?

I just want to run a hose from the valve cover to the intake pipe and get rid of the factory hose.
I run the Mishimoto N55 E-Series specific oil catch can and it does incorporate the heater still. The hose routing is a bit convoluted, but it fits pretty well. It did take a while to break it free from the original hose without damage though! I also wasn't a fan of the BMS dangling heater 'solution'.
 
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Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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I run the Mishimoto N55 E-Series specific oil catch can and it does incorporate the heater still. The hose routing is a bit convoluted, but it fits pretty well. It did take a while to break it free from the original hose without damage though! I also wasn't a fan of the BMS dangling heater 'solution'.
Now that has me thinking about reincorporating the heater back into the PCV system...
 

CalvinNismo

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Now that has me thinking about reincorporating the heater back into the PCV system...
To me it makes sense that if it is going back into the intake tract as at least it’ll be a hot mist or something, rather than a drip of whatever concoction comes out of the crank case.

Edit: Your intake setup looks great by the way!
 
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Alturiak

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Jan 12, 2019
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Another update: got to finally use the smoke machine and oh man is that a game changer! In short, there was a good size leak at the TIC/coupler connection, various leaks on my intake setup, and a major leak from the turbo area. In order to do the TIC fix I needed to pull the silicone inlet off which I wasn't looking forward to, but after I got the TIC stuff handled and back on the car I took the opportunity to smoke it with just the adapter piece that bolts into the turbo (the piece the silicone inlet clamps to). Using the intake cone adapter I shoved it in the inlet piece and smoked it and there were no leaks! I couldn't believe it! As happy as I was to see no leaking, I'm equally embarrassed my "mystery" leak has been the inlet the whole time smh... In my opinion it just goes to show how poor fitting the E series inlets seal to the turbo.

IMG-2630.JPG


But anyways, once I established no leaks I knew I just needed to shore up the inlet side and make sure to connect it properly. Starting with this, I found a lot of leaking where I shoved the 3.5" elbow into the inlet. To seal that up I used Flex Paste and I have to say it did an amazing job! I also needed to use an oversized o-ring on the OCC adapter so it sealed better on the PCV port on the inlet.

IMG-2631.JPG


Once those were done, I took my time and carefully got the inlet back on the turbo and smoked again to make sure it was still leak free and buttoned the car back up. I took out to work this morning and while it's feeling the peppiest it's ever felt (since no leaks), its still throwing the damn lean codes: 2BC0 and 2C42 :rage: To recap, there are brand new O2 sensors, hpfp, spark plugs, and MAF on the car. Before throwing more money at replacing other sensors I'm going to smoke the exhaust system and see if any leaks show. I'm wondering/hoping if that pot hole jarred a connection loose that's causing it. I've literally never seen my car get smoke tested and not show any smoke and it currently baffles me that it's finally there but throwing lean codes. I thought it would be a vacuum leak but I can't find any now. The shop I went to owes me a follow-up smoking so I'll go there again to have a second opinion and extra set of eyes on it.

I'll keep this thread posted on what ends up resolving the lean codes and once I have actual logs verifying my WGDC issues are over I'll post those up as well. Thanks to everyone for your insight and suggestions throughout this process!

Edit to add I checked out my PCV heater and mine is not easily usable :( Not sure what happened, but mine was cut off so I don't have a good way to just slap a hose on it and incorporate it into my inlet. I may look into it further but we'll see.
 
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