N54 Turbo Wastegate Repair Questions

Midshift

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Nov 30, 2017
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07 E92 335i
Hello all,

In a perfect world, we all wish that turbo rattle was nonexistent. Probably would have saved a lot of headaches from owners all around. Deciding to post this threat up on SS since it seems to be more DIY oriented than similar forums. I've recently gone FBO + Inlets/Outlets on my e92. Before bolt ons there was only minor rattle during cold neutral revs. After downpipes and the works, I have horrendous rattle on acceleration, deceleration, and neutral revving. Because I have no issue doing repairs myself, I am considering the option of wastegate arm and bushing repair. This involves removal of the original bushing and arms that tend to go bad over time and installing/welding on new ones. My current turbos (to my knowledge and as far as maintenance receipts go) are the original 105k mile turbos. They don't smoke and build boost fine. This leaves me with two questions in regards to the situation...

1) To purchase core turbos from a partout for cheap and rebuild them on the side?
2) Just purchase the WG repair kit and do it on the current turbos during a weekend?

I've been up and around the turbos numerous times and have not seen any signs of leakage from seals or drain/supply lines. Of course, they would need to be removed to install the repair kit pieces. Has anyone done this repair themselves instead of just swapping turbos and hoping for zero rattle? As far as re-install goes, I am assuming the need for new manifold gaskets/o-rings for coolant/oil feeds along with fluids. Is new hardware necessary? I don't see the point in purchasing the entire install kit all things considered. Any input would be appreciated! Picture of my engine bay attached.

24099008_1834777233251768_112720498_n.jpg
 

silverstreak18

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Jan 3, 2018
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I was going to go that route. I had the repair kit on hand already, but once I got those suckers out I decided to just order stock replacements and run them until I go single. Just figured it wasn't worth the risk for a turbo to blow a seal or something after doing all that work and spending the money for the install kit. I think they were $1400 with no core charge, so you could try to sell your stockers to recoup a bit of cash. Just my $.02
 

Boosted_135

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Nov 21, 2017
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I just did this 3 weeks ago. It was a bit of a paint in the butt to remove everything. I replaced the with turbolab rattle kit. A lot better then it was before. I also replaced all the o rings for piece of mind. all in all it was about 300 dollars. My turbos arent leaking oil and had no shaft play.
 
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Midshift

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Nov 30, 2017
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I just did this 3 weeks ago. It was a bit of a paint in the butt to remove everything. I replaced the with turbolab rattle kit. A lot better then it was before. I also replaced all the o rings for piece of mind. all in all it was about 300 dollars. My turbos arent leaking oil and had no shaft play.

Just the kind of response I was looking for. I checked mine the other week and they did not have any shaft play (forgot to mention this). I wasn't sure if I could directly mention TurboLab but that was the vendor/video/repair that I was referring to. As far as lining up the WG Arms was it difficult at all or just patience-driven? It looks like a sharpie marker was used as a reference point in the video but these seems a bit elementary when we are talking about wastegates sealing/unsealing as a result of arm placement. Like said, I am considering a TD03 rebuild for each turbo but I may just do the repair kit and send them until I go single. I don't mind tearing down the car as I've had to mess with outlets three times in the past two months (i.e. downpipes, steering rack, etc etc etc). To remove the turbos is removing the subframe necessary or can they be slid out the bottom/top with a little added effort? Thanks!
 
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silverstreak18

Corporal
Jan 3, 2018
129
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Charlotte, NC
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2016 M3
Just the kind of response I was looking for. I checked mine the other week and they did not have any shaft play (forgot to mention this). I wasn't sure if I could directly mention TurboLab but that was the vendor/video/repair that I was referring to. As far as lining up the WG Arms was it difficult at all or just patience-driven? It looks like a sharpie marker was used as a reference point in the video but these seems a bit elementary when we are talking about wastegates sealing/unsealing as a result of arm placement. Like said, I am considering a TD03 rebuild for each turbo but I may just do the repair kit and send them until I go single. I don't mind tearing down the car as I've had to mess with outlets three times in the past two months (i.e. downpipes, steering rack, etc etc etc). To remove the turbos is removing the subframe necessary or can they be slid out the bottom/top with a little added effort? Thanks!
I just dropped the subframe onto some milk crates and rotated it out of my way so I didn't have to disconnect the P/S lines. You "can" remove the turbos without dropping the subframe, but you'll have a much more crammed working environment. I believe I still have the VTT wastage repair kit I never used laying around my garage somewhere if you're interested.
 

Boosted_135

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Nov 21, 2017
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I used a sharpy and outlined the OE arm when shut and welded the new one in the same position. It was very easy to do. I also used a sharpy and drew a line from the exhaust housing, over the middle v band clamp and onto the housing. (so everything would like up again) I made reference lines on the WG shafts (the threaded part) so i knew roughly where to screw the new arm on. The biggest pain in my ass, was punching out the OE bushings. I had one that was seized into place and took a lot of work to get out, but So far so good. If the turbos let go, i'll go with new upgraded twins.

I did not remove the subframe and you dont have too. I had enough room to remove everything from under neath. Mind you, i removed quite a bit of other stuff to gain some room.

This was all done on jack stands. haha The car was roughly 2 feet off the ground.
 

Midshift

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I just dropped the subframe onto some milk crates and rotated it out of my way so I didn't have to disconnect the P/S lines. You "can" remove the turbos without dropping the subframe, but you'll have a much more crammed working environment. I believe I still have the VTT wastage repair kit I never used laying around my garage somewhere if you're interested.

Thanks, Silverstreak. I'll send you a PM!

I used a sharpy and outlined the OE arm when shut and welded the new one in the same position. It was very easy to do. I also used a sharpy and drew a line from the exhaust housing, over the middle v band clamp and onto the housing. (so everything would like up again) I made reference lines on the WG shafts (the threaded part) so i knew roughly where to screw the new arm on. The biggest pain in my ass, was punching out the OE bushings. I had one that was seized into place and took a lot of work to get out, but So far so good. If the turbos let go, i'll go with new upgraded twins.

I did not remove the subframe and you dont have too. I had enough room to remove everything from under neath. Mind you, i removed quite a bit of other stuff to gain some room.

This was all done on jack stands. haha The car was roughly 2 feet off the ground.

This explanation helped a lot. I just rewatched a video and completely forgot that the threaded bar from the actuator can be adjusted for the wastegate arm... :sweatsmile: Thank you for the referenced DIY! Doesn't seem to be that much more involved than doing outlets (aside from actually removing the turbos and removing the WP [although I question if this is a necessity]). I saw on TurboLab's video that they drilled through the manifold to help with the bushing removal -- did you do this?
 

Boosted_135

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Nov 21, 2017
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Those outlets have to be the biggest pain in the butt for such a small performance increase. haha :p

They drilled out the piece that holds the bushing in place. You see the groove on the bushing? you make a pin, and drop it in the hole, weld it and holds it from backing out. I did drill the piece out and put another piece in.
 
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Midshift

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Those outlets have to be the biggest pain in the butt for such a small performance increase. haha :p

They drilled out the piece that holds the bushing in place. You see the groove on the bushing? you make a pin, and drop it in the hole, weld it and holds it from backing out. I did drill the piece out and put another piece in.

They weren't too bad. The worst part I think is the rear relocated inlet. Need to make an adjustment? Have to remove the front downpipe in order to reach anything from the back or change the positioning. Thinking when I go ahead and remove the turbos that I'll make the rear inlet a "2 piecer" so that I can adjust it accordingly. Since it's not under boost pressure I don't think it will cause a problem at all... and will make my life 10x easier during install or addressing issues that are underneath it whereas I can access them from the top after removing the one piece instead of having to remove downpipe/inlet and fighting with it for 30 minutes before I can even assume it's on the way to fitting over the rear turbo snub. They look cool, but definitely a headache.

As per the bushing, I see what you mean now. I have plenty of nails laying around the garage that I am sure will suffice in holding the bushing in place. Messaging silverstreak about his VTT Kit and loading up my FCP Euro cart with gaskets/maintenance so that we can get started on this project!
 

Boosted_135

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i had an aweful time trying to get the rear inlet clamp tightened on the turbo.

I'm sure 99% of the kits are all from the same place.

Good luck, and hopefully everything works out smoothly for you.
 
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Midshift

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Big thanks to @silverstreak18 for shipping out the VTT wastegate repair kit today! Looking forward to getting this show on the road. Would anyone be interested in a forum DIY? Upon google search (this forum and various others) I can only find complains about rattle but no real postings about DIY for the actual fix.
 

doublespaces

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Big thanks to @silverstreak18 for shipping out the VTT wastegate repair kit today! Looking forward to getting this show on the road. Would anyone be interested in a forum DIY? Upon google search (this forum and various others) I can only find complains about rattle but no real postings about DIY for the actual fix.

Always like the DIYs. You can make a thread, or you can post it in or document section so it is sure to be found:

https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/documents/
 
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Midshift

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The only issue I foresee as far as a "full" DIY guide is that my car is FBO + Inlets/Outlets. So a full disassembly/reassembly guide would prove pointless as a majority of people are still stock inlets/outlets. I would assume though that a DIY of removing the old arms and installing the new ones could be helpful though! If the thought crosses my mind again I'll be sure to take some photos during the process to help guide/encourage others who may want to take on this small project.