N54: The best Plugs, Injectors and Coils Thread

SlowE93

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I dont experience any problems, no missfires or rough starts, should i still reconsider trimming the coils..
Just because its not giving you problems doesnt mean its correct. Ive seen people work on motors and never use a torque wrench. Things may work, but once again, that doesnt mean its correct. Up to you.
 

roywillems

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May 18, 2017
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Better connectors? Is this part of the “better” connector?
 

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matreyia

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The spark is not as hot and the idea is that it can be advanced without being hot enough to cause pre ignition / detonation and therefore timing corrections etc

I don't think that is correct. My understanding is that when 'colder' or 'hotter' is labelled, it simply means that the plug is designed in such a way that the transfer of heat from the combustion chamber is either quicker or slower into the engine head and taken away via coolant. The speed at which the combustion changer heat is transferred to the engine is manipulated via the length of the ceramic head which is what and/or the metal tip area. Typically, the more ceramic (longer) the more heat can be transferred, thus making the plug 'colder' than stock.
 
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Narcosis

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I don't think that is correct. My understanding is that when 'colder' or 'hotter' is labelled, it simply means that the plug is designed in such a way that the transfer of heat from the combustion chamber is either quicker or slower into the engine head and taken away via coolant. The speed at which the combustion changer heat is transferred to the engine is manipulated via the length of the ceramic head which is what and/or the metal tip area. Typically, the more ceramic (longer) the more heat can be transferred, thus making the plug 'colder' than stock.

This is correct.
 

naschine

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Adding my post to this thread, so it doesn't get buried. Maybe @doublespaces can add it to the first post? :)
Original thread: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/bosch-spark-plugs.5839/

I've got a set of Bosch ZR7SI332S 9710 plugs for my n54 but can't seem to find many using them, I think their the same as ngk 5992/95770, anyone using them?

They're definitely not the same. The 7 indicates the heat index, which is 1 step hotter(!) than the N54 OEM Bosch plugs (ZGR6STE2). NGK 95770 are about one step colder than OEM N54. You'll want some Bosch with an index of 5 for the same heat index as the NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG - NGK's heat index 7 equals Bosch's 5). For Bosch plugs the lower the number, the colder they are. NGK it's the opposite, the higher the number of their index, the colder the plugs.


Single electrode I would gap them def. Ive used ZMR5TPP330 and the zr5tpp33s before I honestly didn't have great luck with them I was leaking through insulator on 1 in both sets

Both ZMR5TPP330 (OEM S55 and M2 N55 - the M in the name indicates they are for M cars) and ZR5TPP33-S (OEM N55) are not produced anymore and superseded by ZR5TPP330 and ZR5TPP33 respectively. Production ceased 01/19 and only remaining stock is sold.

ZMR5TPP330 vs ZR5TPP330 = the center electrode's diameter is different -> 0.8 mm vs 0.6 mm
ZR5TPP33-S vs ZR5TPP33 = interference suppression resistor is different -> 8 kOhm vs. 6 kOhm

Other than that, the spark positions of all mentioned plugs are different!

Spark plugSpark position
NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG), ZGR6STE25 mm
NGK 97506 (SILZKBR8D8S), ZR5TPP33-S, ZR5TPP336 mm
ZMR5TPP330, ZR5TPP3307 mm
Sorry if any termini aren't exactly right, I had to look up some words ;)
 

Rob09msport

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Adding my post to this thread, so it doesn't get buried. Maybe @doublespaces can add it to the first post? :)
Original thread: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/bosch-spark-plugs.5839/



They're definitely not the same. The 7 indicates the heat index, which is 1 step hotter(!) than the N54 OEM Bosch plugs (ZGR6STE2). NGK 95770 are about one step colder than OEM N54. You'll want some Bosch with an index of 5 for the same heat index as the NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG - NGK's heat index 7 equals Bosch's 5). For Bosch plugs the lower the number, the colder they are. NGK it's the opposite, the higher the number of their index, the colder the plugs.




Both ZMR5TPP330 (OEM S55 and M2 N55 - the M in the name indicates they are for M cars) and ZR5TPP33-S (OEM N55) are not produced anymore and superseded by ZR5TPP330 and ZR5TPP33 respectively. Production ceased 01/19 and only remaining stock is sold.

ZMR5TPP330 vs ZR5TPP330 = the center electrode's diameter is different -> 0.8 mm vs 0.6 mm
ZR5TPP33-S vs ZR5TPP33 = interference suppression resistor is different -> 8 kOhm vs. 6 kOhm

Other than that, the spark positions of all mentioned plugs are different!

Spark plugSpark position
NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG), ZGR6STE25 mm
NGK 97506 (SILZKBR8D8S), ZR5TPP33-S, ZR5TPP336 mm
ZMR5TPP330, ZR5TPP3307 mm
Sorry if any termini aren't exactly right, I had to look up some words ;)
What plug would you recommend or do you run?
 

naschine

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Depends... since I have a N55, I am happy with ZR5TPP33-S. No problems (confirmed through logging) with COBB OTS, COBB custom, MHD OTS or MHD custom. Change interval was around 10k km or once a year.
Car is FBO, but will get a "minor" upgrade this winter (GTX3076R Hybrid). It's about time after five years FBO^^

After that, I'll probably go with NGK 97506 gapped to 0.6mm-0.55mm. That would also be my recommendation for a FBO N54 and beyond.
Since you want a gap as large as possible and as small as necessary, 0.6mm-0.55mm seems to be the sweet spot.

Also a good friend (and business partner) of mine @frontside0815 can tell you more about the application of the NGK 97506 in his (now sold) N54. His car was equipped with HP650 and TTE550 before that and as far as I know, they worked like a charm in combination with Delphi coils. I'll poke him to chime in.
 
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doublespaces

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There is some partial information acting as 'clues' to deciphering the plugs, so the FAQ will need cleaned up. I'll try to incorporate it all into the first post soon.
 
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SlowE93

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Depends... since I have a N55, I am happy with ZR5TPP33-S. No problems (confirmed through logging) with COBB OTS, COBB custom, MHD OTS or MHD custom. Change interval was around 10k km or once a year.
Car is FBO, but will get a "minor" upgrade this winter (GTX3076R Hybrid). It's about time after five years FBO^^

After that, I'll probably go with NGK 97506 gapped to 0.6mm-0.55mm. That would also be my recommendation for a FBO N54 and beyond.
Since you want a gap as large as possible and as small as necessary, 0.6mm-0.55mm seems to be the sweet spot.

Also a good friend (and business partner) of mine @frontside0815 can tell you more about the application of the NGK 97506 in his (now sold) N54. His car was equipped with HP650 and TTE550 before that and as far as I know, they worked like a charm in combination with Delphi coils. I'll poke him to chime in.
I also run 97506 and Delphi. Zero misfires. I gap at .021
 

Bmwfixerguy1

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Don't know if this has been mentioned but the n20 spark plugs are infamous for leaking combustion gasses past the metal and ceramic meet. Don't know why the n20s do this but they do.
Also stay away from the "M" plugs they are sooooo much more prone to cracking even with the most careful installer, they also randomly shatter the porcelain and drop it down into the cyl causing big big problems!
 

matreyia

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Don't know if this has been mentioned but the n20 spark plugs are infamous for leaking combustion gasses past the metal and ceramic meet. Don't know why the n20s do this but they do.
Also stay away from the "M" plugs they are sooooo much more prone to cracking even with the most careful installer, they also randomly shatter the porcelain and drop it down into the cyl causing big big problems!

You talking about NGK or BMW OE?
I am using two step colder NGK at .22 gap and no issues so far.
 

Begood69

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Nov 13, 2016
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BMW Direct Ignition Coil - Bosch 12138616153
No issues.. cheap.. lifetime warranty. And made 1008/811 on them.
Also swapped during the dyno for PR coils to test and see if any gain or lost.. resulted on 2 HP/TQ diff not enough to say there is any gain or lost to compare with
what I use. So changed back to those Botch. Selling my PR coils.. not worth the bulky setup.
That dyno was done on 1step colder plugs. May go 2step or 3 step if compatible. Any i put from ppl using them?
 

b4llistic

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EDIT: Thanks your finding and reading my post. Unfortunately, Spoolstreet is no longer a neutral platform where we can have honest discussions on subjects and products freely.
For this reason I have deleted all information I posted on the forums.
 
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matreyia

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Apr 19, 2017
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BMW Direct Ignition Coil - Bosch 12138616153
No issues.. cheap.. lifetime warranty. And made 1008/811 on them.
Also swapped during the dyno for PR coils to test and see if any gain or lost.. resulted on 2 HP/TQ diff not enough to say there is any gain or lost to compare with
what I use. So changed back to those Botch. Selling my PR coils.. not worth the bulky setup.
That dyno was done on 1step colder plugs. May go 2step or 3 step if compatible. Any i put from ppl using them?


I predict your stock coils will not last as long as PR or BL coils built for high power.
 

NoGuru

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I just had a ton of misfires a few weeks back and when I changed the plugs, they had the fire strikes all over the porcelain. I put dielectric all over the porcelain.
I have PR coils and they were active in MHD. I have turned them off so running them like a stock coil, no misfires, and no issues since then.