N54 buildt engine - Pauter Rods, ARP Studs questions

Sucukman

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Jan 20, 2020
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1. has any of you installed Pauter connecting rods for the N54 and can tell me a little more about the adjustments needed? I bought the most expensive connecting rods so that I wouldn't have any problems, now I have the problem that the X shaft hits the cylinder bottom and blocks the crankshaft. According to the homepage, if it doesn't fit, you shouldn't edit anything on the connecting rod, but mill off a part of the cylinder base. Now the question is whether that is good, because the lower part of the cylinder is made of aluminum and the cylinder liner sits on it.

"Some makes of small bore-long stroke engines may require minor notching of the cylinder block to allow full rod rotation cycle without interference. This should be done prior to final engine cleaning and assembly. Allow 1/16″ (1.5mm) minimum clearance. Also take care to watch the location of the oil ring at BDC so as not to encroach on the ring seal with clearance groove. DO NOT MODIFY ROD BEAM!
In some engines, main bearing girdles may also present clearance issues, be certain to check unit for interference prior to final cleanup and assembly."


2.
the second thing, I bought new ARP head studs at a partout, unfortunately there is no instruction on how to put them on. has someone installed this and can give me the data? It is the variant with the M11 and M9 studs, i.e. the ones without drilling out the thread

thank you
 

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nyt

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Sep 15, 2019
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There are lots of rods that are good and fit without modification on this platform. I don't know why you'd get a set that you need to mill the block for. IMO, send them back.

re: head studs...

clean the block, chase if necessary

install studs hand tight

install head

lube stud threads with arp's assembly lube, then install washers and nuts onto the studs hand tight

work up to 80 ftlbs in proper pattern, newtis has this
 

Sucukman

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Jan 20, 2020
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There are lots of rods that are good and fit without modification on this platform. I don't know why you'd get a set that you need to mill the block for. IMO, send them back.

re: head studs...

clean the block, chase if necessary

install studs hand tight

install head

lube stud threads with arp's assembly lube, then install washers and nuts onto the studs hand tight

work up to 80 ftlbs in proper pattern, newtis has this


thank you for your reply. unfortunately these were bought 2 years ago and only yesterday we wanted to install them. I'll try to send them back because I don't want to mill on the block.

Because of the torque, do you also think that the small M9 screws get the same torque as the M11?
 

Brule

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Feb 20, 2017
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Its common to cut the block for rods on other platforms.

Just get it cut its not going to weaken your block.
 
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Sucukman

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Jan 20, 2020
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Its common to cut the block for rods on other platforms.

Just get it cut its not going to weaken your block.

the block is made of aluminum and the place to be milled is a small part of aluminum that carries the steel sleeve. after several emails with pauter they offered that i send the rods at my own costs back to edit them and then send them back to me with slow usps shipping. a lot of money for bad service, we should have stayed with carillo. I will take the connecting rods to grinded and precisely weighed by a motorsport engine builder. I do not recommend buying the Pauter connecting rods.
 
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The Convert

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Jun 4, 2017
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the block is made of aluminum and the place to be milled is a small part of aluminum that carries the steel sleeve. after several emails with pauter they offered that i send the rods at my own costs back to edit them and then send them back to me with slow usps shipping. a lot of money for bad service, we should have stayed with carillo. I will take the connecting rods to grinded and precisely weighed by a motorsport engine builder. I do not recommend buying the Pauter connecting rods.
You don’t recommend Pauter because of your failure to do your research and develop a full build plan before buying parts? That’s the most absurd thing I’ve seen on here in a while. Take responsibility for your own mistakes, and do your homework next time.
 
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Sucukman

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Jan 20, 2020
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You don’t recommend Pauter because of your failure to do your research and develop a full build plan before buying parts? That’s the most absurd thing I’ve seen on here in a while. Take responsibility for your own mistakes, and do your homework next time.

you say I didn't do the right research? and I tell you that Pauter himself didn't know that it didn't fit and he said we sold so much and there were never any problems. What you are saying here is absurd.

thats the standard text from many US Part "developer" when something is wron with the parts.

"I must say we have not seen this type of interference with the N54 series engine previously are all other parts standard ?" " we have not heard of previous customers having this issue with this N54 engine platform before however this type of clearance modification is commonly required in small bore engines with very long OEM stroke or those where stroke has been purposely increased . "
 

The Convert

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you say I didn't do the right research? and I tell you that Pauter himself didn't know that it didn't fit and he said we sold so much and there were never any problems. What you are saying here is absurd.

thats the standard text from many US Part "developer" when something is wron with the parts.

"I must say we have not seen this type of interference with the N54 series engine previously are all other parts standard ?" " we have not heard of previous customers having this issue with this N54 engine platform before however this type of clearance modification is commonly required in small bore engines with very long OEM stroke or those where stroke has been purposely increased . "
Their response is completely reasonable.
 

Cruizinmax

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Jul 18, 2018
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It's very commonplace to require notching the block to clear rods. Even aluminum blocks with steels sleeves. The amount of material you remove is not going to compromise the support of the cylinder by any meaningful amount. Remember the steel sleeve is cast in the block and is supported by aluminum it's full length. They're not just sitting on a ledge that supports all the load
 

The Convert

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It's very commonplace to require notching the block to clear rods. Even aluminum blocks with steels sleeves. The amount of material you remove is not going to compromise the support of the cylinder by any meaningful amount. Remember the steel sleeve is cast in the block and is supported by aluminum it's full length. They're not just sitting on a ledge that supports all the load
However, sleeves can drop due to coefficient of thermal expansion differences between the block and sleeve materials if there is no ledge to support the sleeve. As you said though, notching for rod clearance is not going to remove the entire ledge though and should not be a problem.
 

Cruizinmax

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However, sleeves can drop due to coefficient of thermal expansion differences between the block and sleeve materials if there is no ledge to support the sleeve. As you said though, notching for rod clearance is not going to remove the entire ledge though and should not be a problem.
Not to perpetuate an argument but the cylinder liner can not "drop" like an aftermarket sleeve insert. Being cast in place allows for manufacturing design elements such as grooves in the cylinder liner as shown here in this cross section of this block.
 

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The Convert

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Not to perpetuate an argument but the cylinder liner can not "drop" like an aftermarket sleeve insert. Being cast in place allows for manufacturing design elements such as grooves in the cylinder liner as shown here in this cross section of this block.
Had to do some reading because I’d never heard of blocks being cast around the sleeves. That’s pretty interesting.