///M1.5 Build Thread

amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
0
Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
Last summer my trusty 2012 135 spun a rod bearing, likely due to constant track use. This left me with a hard decision on what to do with it, rebuild the N55, get a "new" N55, or other. Looking at the financials, and goals for the car being a 90% track car with some cars and coffee use, with the approval of the wife (also a track junkie) I decided to just shelf the car and save my pennies to buy a wrecked donor M3 and do "the swap." By the time I fixed the N55, addressed oiling issues, sorted out the massive cooling requirements, I may as well just spend the money on a silky smooth NA S65.

I decided that this project needed to be complete this winter since I didn't want to spend another track season without it. I have several other fun cars but nothing that performs like the 135 and track days just wern't the same.

So a couple weeks ago I finally pulled the trigger and brought home a 52k mile 2013 E92 M3 DCT.

IMG_4288.jpg


Got the thing home and I really don't understand how it was totaled out. The only thing really wrong with it was the DCT cooler was bent. It ran and drove perfectly once I peeled some damaged panels off. I really almost didn't have the heart to tear it down as a donor. I wanted to fix it and drive it, but then I'm even deeper in the project and still have a useless 1 series shell. Onward we go.

The 135 is already almost completely stripped. The plan is to strip both cars into individual piles of parts and then reassemble using the best of both worlds. It's really staggering how similar the two cars are. No one is ever going to convince me they didn't intent to put the S65 in the 1M.
IMG_4328.jpg


My goal for this thread is to document the "hard" parts. I'm not going to post much about the tear down, or the things that simply bolt on. If there's anything specific you're curious about fire away and I'll try to document it as I go. I'm going to make three posts below this and just update them as I go to create a continuous historical record that people can reference. Hopefully I can document all the small things that other builds have skipped so more people can make this happen!
 
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amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
0
Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
Engine and Drivetrain

Obviously here everything is coming directly out of the M3. S65, DCT, Rear Diff, etc.

First Step is remove the Engine and start to evaluate what parts need to go where.
63260094778__8D35E1E8-D5A4-4FB1-9FDF-2008FB8842FF.jpg

Engine is out

63332310301__E6924E32-50F2-443E-9E0A-42F0E8D269B7.jpg


I wanted to delete the AC as it's not really necessary for a track car, it's just more things to break, and zaps a couple HP even if it's off. Issue is, the S65 (2007.5+) has a goofy belt routing where the power steering pump spins backwards and needs the AC compressor to wrap the belt around the PS pump so it's not as easy as just taking off the AC compressor and using a shorter belt.

I tired to see if an N55 PS pump, that spins the "right way" could some how be adapted but definitely no such luck. I could make a whole bracket and such but I just can't be bothered. I'll just leave the AC alone. I would buy an AC delete bracket if anyone knows of anything but I couldn't turn anything up.

*Update: I don't know why I didn't think of it sooner but the S85 never changed belt directions and still has a clockwise PS pump. $30 on eBay latter:

IMG_4617.jpg


The bracket is different between the two, and the input port is at a slightly different angle. The S65 bracket fits on the S85 pump, and the input tube angle doesn't seem to be an issue. The hose is just slightly bent. If it leaks or anything I'll just replace the tube with something slightly more flexible and worm gear hose clamps. Now I can eliminate AC and save about 35 lbs I think. 2999lbs here I come!

IMG_4620.jpg


To complete the A/C delete portion of the project, I tried several different belts and landed on the KRC 4060320. Hopefully the S85 PS pump flow rate isn't wildly different than the M3... we'll see!

IMG_4656.jpg

Looking at exhaust set ups, I got lucky the M3 already had the secondary cats and resonators chopped out so I have a nice clean slate to work with. Just need to cut the M3 mid pipes and weld on flanges and then just bolt on the 135 mids and muffler sections. Easy peasy:
63513788046__4CB48714-5F3F-4056-9F75-F12A6F276BC6.jpg


Saturday was rod bearing day. The M3 has 52k miles but I figure while the engine is already out I should probably do them. I went with BE Bearings and OEM bolts. If I had to do it again I'd by the ARP bolts just to avoid doing the OEM torquing procedure. What a pain.
63555050472__777A5E5F-8413-411D-9B05-9AB58A5EC42A.jpg

Bearings were totally fine, someone took really good care of this car. Oh well, peace of mind.

IMG_4551.jpg


Buttoning Everything up:
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And first start. Took a second to get fuel in the line but it fired right up first try. Only error in the ECU is it's pissed it can't see the crash disconnect on the battery... because it's not there. The other dash lights are just that the front wheels speed sensors were not plugged in and a couple fluids still need to be filled.

Got the exhaust finished up. It was pretty straight forward since the M3 and 135 exhausts are both 2.5" and are both straight for a while right after the transmission. I just used two 12" vibrant resonators, cut the front off the 135 off, and the rear of the M3 off and welded them together. It fits up perfect and sounds pretty damn good, it's loud af under load but pretty quiet when just driving around. It may be the lack of x pipe but it has a really unique sound.

IMG_4997.JPG


IMG_4996.JPG


 
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amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
0
Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
Chassis, Brakes, etc

Honestly I think this is where all the fussing around is going to be. There are some things that need to be modified to swap over so I'll document that as I go:
  • Heat Shields and undertrays
  • Brake Lines and Fuel Lines
  • Fuel Pump
  • Airbox
First Project is to see if I can salvage my trusty 17" wheels. I've been running 17x9 et42 ARC8s on the 135 and I really dig it. I have a lot of track friends that run E36s so there's an abundance of similarly sized wheels amongst us. Also, the tire cost is quite a bit lower, the ride is better over curbs, etc. I have been running 335i brakes on my 135 for several years and have no doubt they would be up to the task on the M1.5 so that's my goal. Keep the brakes, keep the wheels. The front is no issue, the 135 hubs with 335 brakes will bolt right on with the 135 tie rods. This is basically exactly what I already have since I had an M3 rack and control arms in the 135 already.

Issue is then the rear, the balance would definitely be off with 335 front brakes and M3 rear brakes. I tried every combo I could think of to get the 335 brakes bolted onto the M3 rear hub with no luck. There is also a toe arm difference between the 135 knuckle and M3 knuckle/subframe so it looks like I'm stuck with the M3 rear brakes, which means M3 front brakes, and 18" wheels. I could go to a 355mm Stoptech set up that would allegedly fit in the 17's but I just don't have it in the budget. Oh well, hopefully that's the biggest disappointment of the project so far...
63245486687__932BFCFE-4C61-4648-B7B3-21756590A41F.jpg


What do you suppose the odds are the M3 carbon crash structure will work with the E82? They're close enough I'm 100% going to try it. They look like they're different sizes in this picture but they really aren't. The M3 may be just sliiiiightly "longer" but the 1 series bumper should accomidate that. EDIT: It does fit. You need to trim quite a bit off the ends but it will fit. The tow hook bung also sticks out of the bumper and the cover won't go back on so it's probably got a great mod for everyone but it works for my track car.

Edit Edit: As I put the car back together I gave up and put the steel one back in. The fiberglass M3 bar interferes with several things in the front and I didn't feel like chopping up everything.

63259577604__922A57CB-A1C1-47C1-BDF1-D76276903905.jpg


First minor snag I ran into is there are two studs for attaching the rear front fender liners that interfere with the V8 subframe:
image3.jpeg


I just zipped these off and applied some rattle can bed liner. Not yet sure how the fender liners are going to fit. The M3 has two pieces (actually three total) so the subframe can be exposed without removing the whole wheel liner. Maybe I can hack those to work.
image0.jpeg


Did a dry fit of the suspension with the M3 front knuckles and tried some wheel fitments.

17x9 et42 that was on the 135:
63798080163__D9BB6008-9753-4850-9495-26BBC00DD92E.jpg


Looks like the M3 hub/knuckle pushes the wheel out about 5mm farther than the 135 hub/knuckle.

E36 17x8.5 DS2s with 6mm spacers to make them et35 (my ideal)

63804559486__A57B28B4-645F-49AC-96F1-C509AEC82E14.jpg


IMG_4754.jpg


This is with a 245/40R17, and seems to juuuuuuuust fit. I can still roll the fenders and have a bit more camber to add anyway so I'm going to go with 18x8.5 et35 Apex SM-10s and 245/40R18 Falken RT660s. It's probably way safer to run an et40-45 but they don't make the SM-10 in those, just the ARC-8 and I want something different.

Onto a couple of the tasks I was really dreading, adding/removing some studs around the car, and shortening the fuel line, fuel vapor line, and brake lines.

Modification of the studs in the engine bay is pretty straight forward, you need to remove 5, and add 5 (3 and 3 if you're doing a manual swap)

Remove:
  • Two studs on the passenger side frame rail of the car that interfere with the DCT cooler lines
  • Two studs near the engine ground that were used for a bracket that held the 135 fuel/brake lines
  • One stud on the driver's side frame rail that interferes with the HVAC coolant line
Add:
  • Two studs on the passengers side for DCT cooler line mounting points
  • Two studs on the driver's side for the HVAC coolant line
  • One stud on the driver's side cowl area for a fuel line mounting bracket
IMG_4865.jpg


I used epoxy on studs from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/97590A881/ and https://www.mcmaster.com/97590A817/

I did some research on what epoxy to use since these will see some heat, and landed back at the tried and true OG JB Weld. None of them will have much/any load on them so I doubt it matters too much, just use a good quality epoxy.

Onto the fuel and brake lines. This is pretty simple, just cut them and join them back together. I installed them in the car, picked a straight portion of each to do the cut, cut them, installed front and rear sections where they want to be, then cut to length and joined them. The fuel vent line you'll need to use the rear section from the 135 and the front section from the M3 since the charcoal canister in the rear is on opposite sides. Just put both lines in and it's obvious where you'll cut and connect them.


IMG_4826.jpg


IMG_4827.jpg


For the vent line I just used a cheapo 3/8" (10mm) ID brass barb connector. You'll have to warm up the plastic line to get it pushed in but it wasn't too bad. This sees no pressure so I'm not worried about hose clamps or anything... this definitely is not coming apart. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753C842P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the fuel line I used a SS compression fitting for 8mm OD pipe: https://www.mcmaster.com/5305K315/

IMG_4823.jpg

IMG_4824.jpg


And the brake lines I just cut, flared and used a coupler. I'm not completely happy with this since there's also a coupler right in the passenger wheel well of the M3 lines. Since my rear subframe is going to be rigidly mounted I may redo this and skip over the chasses to subframe soft lines and run new lines from the wheel well right to the rear soft line connections.

The stock M3 lines will need to be rebent slightly to conform to the 1 series chassis:
IMG_4828.jpg

IMG_4829.jpg


DO NOT MIX UP THE LEFT TO RIGHT CONNECTION.

How much needed to be removed:
IMG_4830.jpg


Subframe: I'm going fully spherical and solid subframe mounts. So fun. This is straight forward, and not necessary. The M3 subframe will bolt onto the 1 series chassis exactly as is.

IMG_4805.jpg

IMG_4817.jpg
IMG_4819.jpg


Driveshaft: This is a big one. You need to remove 3 7/8" *FOR A DCT CAR* I looked high and low within a two hour drive of me but no one would touch it. I got a tip from someone that has already done this that a company called Driveshaft Pro in CA can build a brand new one to spec. Called them up and $650 later had a new driveshaft. I got the 3 7/8" taken out of the rear section but this was a mistake, the u-joint hits the heatshield if you do this. The chassis has two sets of holes for the center bearing that are... 3 7/8" apart so you definitely want to take the 3 7/8" out of the front section so the center bearing and u-joint are in the stock location so the heatshields clear. I just beat the heatshield with a hammer a bit and it's fine now.
64087981869__9710FF74-821E-454A-A29E-428BAF643B22.jpg


Getting the heat and splash shields and all that in wasn't too bad. There are slight differences but it's pretty easy to mix and match and get them secured. I used all the 135 shields, except the driver's side exhaust area. The M3 trans cover and 135 rear sections mate up to everything perfectly.
IMG_4948.jpg


As for the fender liners, I cut the bottom wings off the 135 liners, and trimmed up the M3 part that goes over the subframe, added a couple mount points and it's fine. Not perfect but once the wheel is on you'll never notice.
IMG_4961.jpg

IMG_4962.jpg


You'll need to use the 135 under body panels, and do some trimming to fit. The M3 under panels are too narrow since the side skirts on the M3 extend farther under the car.

IMG_4997.JPG

Have trim the front a bit to meet up with the M3 wheel liner tail pieces"
IMG_4991.jpg


There's the little gap in the shield where the M3 heat shields don't extend around as far but oh well.

IMG_4990.jpg

In the front I cut the 135 under tray and then screwed it to the M3 subframe brace. Eventually I want to make a flat bar that goes across the panel and applies more even pressure across it, but this works for now:
IMG_4992.jpg


Cleaned up the knuckles, and started to bolt everything back together... this is the easy part now.

NOTE: if you have coil overs on your 135 that you want to reuse you need to buy sleeves. The M3 strut is larger so the M3 knuckle won't grab a 135/335 strut. I obviously wanted to keep my JRZ RS2s so I got these: https://www.bimmerworld.com/MCS-E9X-M3-1M-Strut-Adaptor-Sleeve.html
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Also of note, the middle hood cross member definitely needs to be trimmed to clear the very front of the air box. I just used a die grinder and zipped it out a bit.

And that's a wrap:

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amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
0
Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
Electrical

The idea here is to pull both complete wiring harnesses and swap the whole M3 harness into the M1.5. I think the NFRM module has to stay but all the other modules will come over from the M3. I believe I also need to splice in the tail light connections from 135 since they are one piece vs split on the M3.

I've already deleted most of the audio, airbags, sunroof, seats, and such from the 135 so I'm also going to remove all that wire from the M3 harness.

First thing is data log as much as I can think of to make sure I can get M Drive and all that working in the M1.5.
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A lot more wires in the DME box compared to the N55 1 series:
63253139802__4F3E0B4F-5000-4279-8FC3-15178547B72D.jpg


First "Electrical Mod" is installing the new washer reservoir. I'm going to run pre-LCI 128 halogens to save some weight at the front, so I don't need the washers, so I don't need the washer pump, lines, or wires. The other thing that struck me was that my car does not have heated washer jets as an option, but it does have heated washer jets and the wires. I'm going to remove those wires. The last thing to note about the washer jets is it's one of the differences, the M3 has them in the cowl, and the 135 has them on the hood. Should be easy enough to take care of though since I'm removing the heater wires, but if you weren't they would need to be extended to go in the 135.

image1.jpeg


My initial plan was just take the whole harness out of the M3 and put it in the 135, then change the couple things here and there as needed. Not going to work... It's amazing how much more stuff the M3 has than the 135. I'm not sure exactly what my plan is, I need to tear apart the M3 a little more and open up the harness and look at it for a couple of beers. I think I need to dig apart both harnesses and mix and match. My current line of thought is pull everything out of the 135 harness that isn't currently attached to anything, then pull all the missing pieces from the M3 harness and wrap it all back up.

Things right now that I know are different:

  • Most of the ECU connections, including the power button
  • Some of the DSC connections
    • Extra brake pad sensors, DSC OFF button
  • EKP (Fuel Pump) module wiring
  • Extra Battery + cable from the battery to the JBBF Radiator Fan
  • GWS wiring is close enough it could be converted but I'll just use the M3 wiring.
  • Several Engine bay things need to route to the opposite side, or are just slightly different:
    • Vacuum sensor
    • Fuel Pressure sensor
    • Aux water pump
    • Servotronic
    • Horns
    • Outside temp sensor
Modules I'll be swapping, everything else will stay from the 135:
  • ECU (duh)
  • DKG
  • DSC
  • CAS
  • KOMBI
  • JBBF
  • EKP
  • DSC sensor under driver's seat
  • GWS
  • Radiator Fan Relay
Thing's I'm eliminating while doing this:
  • ABG module, all airbags, and sensors (track car)
  • Combox
  • Rear speakers, Driver's side subwoofer
  • FZD
  • All interior lighting
  • Seat modules
  • Brake pad sensors (connect wires at DSC)
  • RDC
  • Adaptive Headlights, washers, etc


IMG_4601.jpg

I'm an Electrical Engineer and this is going to suck.

I've identified everything I need to get rid of in the 135 and everything I need to swap from the M3, now it's just matter of picking apart the harnesses and mixing and matching. Honestly not as bad as I thought it would be, but I swear someone took extra time to tangle these harnesses...

63642192754__12EFEC57-297F-422B-AF0F-6A9C721636E9.jpg


135 harness full unwrapped and everything non essential removed, so much easier to look at with half the harness removed. Next step is to disconnect everything coming through the firewall on both cars. and transfer the M3 stuff to the 135. NOTE: If you follow this path, you will need some special depinning tools for the fuse box connectors, and ground connections.
63693149578__52465CB4-90C6-433B-8445-86AAD3D71E86.jpg

Need to weigh the excess wire, but it's not insignificant and I even left the radio, amp, and front speakers in place for now.
63693150396__A324D30B-18B5-4F84-802C-3C91E9327F28.jpg


Removing the important bits from the M3:
IMG_4702.jpg


There were a couple things in the engine bay that needed to be rearranged.
  • Side Marker lights have different plugs, I chose to splice these all the way back at the fire wall
  • Removed ride height sensor
  • Removed AUX vacuum pump wiring (relocated)
  • Remove brake pad sensor wiring, connect at DSC pump
63769991690__54F6645C-1124-4D3A-8258-A59B76E06BAD.jpg


A note on the brake pad sensors on the M3, there are two front sensors, but they're simply wired in series so if either one goes the circuit opens. You can simply remove the wire (Brown/Purple) going between the two and connect them like you would a non-M with two sensors.
IMG_4707.jpg


Engine bay harness removed:
63770156440__31CF4E20-8D4E-48CE-9C84-27471624744C.jpg


And inserted into the 135:
IMG_4713.jpg


Reconnect everything back where it came from:
63795542263__0F8AFD64-864E-44BD-8525-DBAE62E56708.jpg


Plug in the important things:
63795939311__165FCF55-2EA3-4DAE-BA8C-58CDA99B23D0.jpg


Push the button and pray:
IMG_4733.jpg


It was super pissed but everything appears to be mostly working. The CAS and ECU talk, the KOMBI turns on, lights work, etc.

Next step is to relocate the AUX vac pump. I decided I didn't want to mess with my fenders, welding the bracket etc. so I'm going to move the pump to the right rear area that has nothing in it. That way I can pack some foam around it if it's too loud, and I can just panel bond the bracket down.
IMG_4719.jpg

I extended the wires from the JBBF back there, using the OEM plug and wire from the engine bay I had to splice in about two feet of extra wire. I used a stiff 1/2" rubber fuel hose to run new vac lines. I'm keeping the factory check valve in the DSC area, and adding a check valve at the pump so the line will stay at vacuum so the pump doesn't have to work as hard.
IMG_4762.jpg


After that it was basically just time to wrap the harness. I wrapped under the dash in cloth tape like factory since I don't anticipate ever touching that again. I did the rest of the car in loom so if I need to get at the wires I don't have to unwrap the whole damn thing again.
IMG_4768.jpg


Here's a [probably incomplete] list of the things you'll need to address that are majorly different between the two cars:
  • Basically everything from the firewall forward is different, except the headlights.
    • The grommets are filled with silicone or something though so you will need to use the whole M3 engine bay harness at a minimum.
    • Side marker lights have a different plug between the M3 and 1 series.
  • If you use the full M3 harness the tail lights will be different, M3 has the inners on the trunk, the 1 series is all on the body.
  • The radiator fan in the M3 is more powerful so you need to use the dedicated line/relay from the M3 that goes under the passenger seat.
  • The evap sensor is on the opposite side of the car. I just cut the two and spliced them together. NOTE: the wire colors are different between the two!
  • The EKP fuel pump wiring is different on the chassis side, and the module to fuel pump. You need to use the M3 wiring, EKP, and fuel pump.
  • The GWS, Power Button, and DSC button are slightly different, power, lights, and ground are the same but the signal lines all need to come from the M3
    • There is a difference in how the PT-CAN is run to the ECU/DKG as well.
  • There will be MANY other differences between your two cars depending on options. BMW makes each harness individually for the car it's going in so you'll need to sort out what goes where, what doesn't do anything, and what you'll need to add.
All in all I suspect this will be by far the hardest part of the project. Stay calm, stay organized, take notes, take pictures, take more pictures, take even more pictures, etc. I don't think the way I did it is the easiest way, but I think it's the only way that all the remaining 135 wires, and all the S65 stuff are both completely factory.

Hopefully the last "electrical" task is swapping the M3 fuel pump and sender units from the M3 tank to the 135 tank. This is pretty straight forward, just takes some finesse. You'll end up with all of the M3 tubes and everything in the 135 tank, everything fits perfectly.
IMG_4793.jpg

135 pump:
IMG_4794.jpg

M3 pump:
IMG_4795.jpg


Got the car all coded up and it's happy as can be. Very Basic guide:

In NCS Expert:
  • Pull VIN/VO from NFRM (retained from 135)
  • Modify 135 VO, in my case simply deleting almost everything
  • Write the VO to the NFRM
  • Default code all the modules left from the 135
  • Modify the Profile to allow manual input of VIN
  • Pull VO from CAS (swapped from M3)
  • Enter 135's VIN
  • Modify CAS VO
  • Write VO to the CAS
  • Default code all the modules swapped from the M3
  • Write VIN to all the modules that will let you
    • IE, not the KOMBI, CAS, or ECU
In WinKFP
  • EDIT: Do not mess with the ECU. WinKFP can only erase the MSS60. Ask me how I know.
  • Write the 135's VIN to the DCT (I upgraded to GTS software while I was at it)
^these both take a WHILE. Make sure you have a good battery charger on the car when you do this. You can find detailed instructions online on using WinKFP. You can apparently use WinKFP to write the VIN on the CAS but it sounded sketchy and I didn't do it. I just need it on the ECU for state inspection... The car does not care what VIN is on the modules, so you do not really have to do this.
 
Last edited:

amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
0
Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
holllllyyyyyy shit! Awesome!


Yes, those crash bars fit. I have been trying to snipe some one Ebay for the weight savings. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1282179
Interesting. Hopefully it's the same story with the 1 bumper. I didn't think the weight difference was all that much but hey, 5-10 lbs is 5-10 lbs. I'm already swapping to 128 non-LCI halogens to save 10lbs out over the front so that's 15-20 lbs all the way out over the front. Removing the bulky CSF intercooler and replacing it with the M3 oil cooler is probably another 20 lbs. Couple that 40 lbs with the S65 sitting way lower and farther back than the N55 and hopefully I can move the balance rearward quite a bit... removing rear weight is easy.
 

derekgates

Lieutenant
Feb 23, 2018
727
353
0
NW FL
derekgates.us
Ride
2011 335is
Agree with your sentiments. I am also trying to reduce front weight; that bar saves a little bit but then I am installing an oversized intercooler and... sigh.

There is also a thread on the subframe 'brace' that the M3 uses. Talks about rigidity and how to fit it to the triangle bar setup our cars have: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26613054#post26613054


[EDIT] I keep forgetting that 1series !== 3series in all regards, so hopefully this stuff is applicable...
 

amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
0
Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
Agree with your sentiments. I am also trying to reduce front weight; that bar saves a little bit but then I am installing an oversized intercooler and... sigh.

There is also a thread on the subframe 'brace' that the M3 uses. Talks about rigidity and how to fit it to the triangle bar setup our cars have: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26613054#post26613054


[EDIT] I keep forgetting that 1series !== 3series in all regards, so hopefully this stuff is applicable...
All that will be a direct bolt on from the M3 since I'm using the whole V8 subframe and everything. The rear braces are slightly different 1 vs 3 series so I'll just keep the 1 series set up rather than hack together the 3 series braces some others have done. One of my major goals is to use as many unmodified off the shelf BMW parts as I can so I can A) find parts later and B) build it like BMW would have.
 
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derekgates

Lieutenant
Feb 23, 2018
727
353
0
NW FL
derekgates.us
Ride
2011 335is
All that will be a direct bolt on from the M3 since I'm using the whole V8 subframe and everything. The rear braces are slightly different 1 vs 3 series so I'll just keep the 1 series set up rather than hack together the 3 series braces some others have done. One of my major goals is to use as many unmodified off the shelf BMW parts as I can so I can A) find parts later and B) build it like BMW would have.

ohhhhhhhh derp! Yes you are absolutely correct. :D

This is a very similar project to @martymil https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/teaser-tuned-s65-dct-powered-1m.6981/
 

martymil

Brigadier General
Sep 6, 2017
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Down Under @ madautodevelopments
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S65 1m
You don't need the front brace like the e88 the m3 belly pan is the actual brace.

You will need to mix and match the heat shielding but it fits.

You will need to change the front brake lines but I left the middle ones stock and wrapped them in heat shielding and made a bracket to hold them away from the exhaust.

Have fun and cut your hair short so you don't pull it out. LOL.

This is the ultimate conversion to the 1 series chassis, nothing even comes close.

I would leave the metal front crash bar it stiffens the front end a lot compared to the carbon fibre version.

That's why I never changed it, weight saving is not everything when you go backwards in chassis stiffness.
 

aus335iguy

Colonel
Nov 18, 2017
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Down under
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335i DCT 2009
With respect to rear brakes. I’d compromise and use non m subframe, knuckles and brakes but take all of the diff, and all the arms etc. What specifically do you need the M3 knuckles for ?
 

amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
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Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
With respect to rear brakes. I’d compromise and use non m subframe, knuckles and brakes but take all of the diff, and all the arms etc. What specifically do you need the M3 knuckles for ?

I need the M rear subframe for the diff. There's a knock on effect, M diff means M subframe, which means M control arms, which means M knuckle. It's fine, I'll just suck it up and run 18" wheels.

Also this thread needs an update.
🥺
Not much progress, been too cold to work in the garage... propane heater barely takes the edge off if it's really cold. Engine is out of the M3 and all the maintenance parts and such are showing up so progress is creeping along. Balmy 39 today so I'm hoping to knock out some more stuff, probably just the last little bit of 135 engine bay dismantling now that I can get in both engine bays to see exactly what's going and what's staying. After that it's just going to be more M3 dismantling to get the wire harness out.
 

amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
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Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
I thought m diffs fit non m subframes ?

I didn't think so but I'm not really all that sure. I'm not all that worried about it to be honest. The only reason I wanted to keep the 335 brakes is to run 17's but I'm over it. The M3 brakes will be nice to have.
 
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amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
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Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
I run 20's on mine and handles much better with no traction issues, the m3 brakes are surprisingly very good unless your tracking than I would look into
a brembo setup or the like but the stock setup works really well.

I'm certainly not going to run 20s 😄 the car is 95% track use, so the main issue is the cost of consumables, I go through at least one set of track tires a season. I was running E9x 335 brakes with Bimmerworld bushings, Stoptech rotors, and PFC08 pads and never had an issue with the brakes even when pushing as hard as the car could. I don't anticipate any issues with the M3 set up.
 

amg6975

Sergeant
Oct 27, 2019
275
178
0
Ride
2012 135, 2005 ZHP, 2009 fJCW
Hey @martymil how does the 1M rear portion of the front wheel liner fit with the V8 subframe? I had to cut the two little studs off to seat the subframe, curious if the 1M had the same issue.