Installing twins - too much touching?

[morffius]

I have spent this week slowly getting through my twins installation. It’s more of a pain than I expected, but since I have the time right now I am not rushing at all. At this point, I have the twins on and had to skip one screw from the rear turbo heat shield.

Two issues:

1. I have the silicone outlet on and when putting the coolant pipe on it touches the outlet and also gets very close and touches the turbo. I was able to slip some extra heat shielding over the coolant pipe as you can see. Should I try and bend the pipe so there is more clearance?

2. With both motor mounts replaced, I want to torque the top bolt but am afraid the two bottom bolts won’t line up with the subframe when reinsalled. Any ideas for accomplishing this?

With the time and energy associated with the twins replacement, I kind of wish I did a single turbo. The turbo being more accessible and parts being made specifically for the task instead of bending or moving OEM parts.

Cheers.

 

[buster84]

I have spent this week slowly getting through my twins installation. It’s more of a pain than I expected, but since I have the time right now I am not rushing at all. At this point, I have the twins on and had to skip one screw from the rear turbo heat shield.

Two issues:

1. I have the silicone outlet on and when putting the coolant pipe on it touches the outlet and also gets very close and touches the turbo. I was able to slip some extra heat shielding over the coolant pipe as you can see. Should I try and bend the pipe so there is more clearance?

2. With both motor mounts replaced, I want to torque the top bolt but am afraid the two bottom bolts won’t line up with the subframe when reinsalled. Any ideas for accomplishing this?

With the time and energy associated with the twins replacement, I kind of wish I did a single turbo. The turbo being more accessible and parts being made specifically for the task instead of bending or moving OEM parts.

Cheers.

Twins are alot of work, but worth it in the end. Lots of low end torque which feels great with basic driving. As for the silicone outlets install those after everything is put back together. Just reinstall the coolant hoses/water pump the way it was stock. Everything fits right back up and if your running into trouble it means something isnt going back on right.

I almost left off two heat shield bolts but I said screw it and figured out a way to get them installed. I have a little bit of OCD and not getting those one would have bugged the crap out of me. Plus there won't be any vibrating heat shields or concerns.

As for the motor mounts I found it much easier to bolt them onto the subframe when reinstalling. I never torqued them down until it was all fitting like it should. Reinstalling the subframe on my XI was hell by myself but it can be done. I used a jack and some wood to lift the subframe and I used the motor mount studs as guides when reinstalling the subframe. After it was all done I torqued it all down. Just make sure you use a good brand torque wrench for accuracy and follow all bmw bolt torque specs when tightening up bolts. The last thing you need is a bolt backing out from being too loose or a bolt snapping when the car get stressed and causes and over tight bolt to snap.

I used two cdi torque wrenches, one 20 - 150in lbs and the other was 10 - 100ft lbs which covered all the ranges of bolts for a turbo install.

 

[morffius]

I pulled the silicone outlet off and I’m going to order the VTT aluminum. I think the rear turbo may be clocked a little different so I might have to use a more angled rear cuppler.

Also does anyone know if this is too close? With that radiator hose melt?

 

[The Convert]

The radiator house is almost touching the compressor housing, not the exhaust housing, right? If so, should be fine.

 

[morffius]

That is correct. Okay, I will just wrap it with some heat insulation and call it good. Thank you for your input.

 

[The Convert]

That is correct. Okay, I will just wrap it with some heat insulation and call it good. Thank you for your input.

Np. If you're worried at all, pickup some fire sleeve or similar from dei and call it a day.

 

[buster84]

The radiator house is almost touching the compressor housing, not the exhaust housing, right? If so, should be fine.

This

That is correct. Okay, I will just wrap it with some heat insulation and call it good. Thank you for your input.

I forgot to ask, what twins are you installing?

 

[morffius]

I forgot to ask, what twins are you installing?

MMP 1k

 

[buster84]

MMP 1k

Nice! Those are similar to my GC's and you'll love the spooling!

If you love the whoosh sound get a BOV or if you have bypass valves remove the recirculating tube and install a 1in filter on the outlets of the bypass valves (helps keep oil out of your engine bay if some oil doesnt get filtered by your catch can). This is what I did and ever time my car shifts or I let off the gas you get a loud whoosh sound and I always get looks lol. If I had to guess they probably think I'm doing it on purpose but its actually just cruising lol.

 

[doublespaces]

Who needs low end torque

 

[morffius]

Now I’m trying to diagnose a boost leak / vacuum problem. I get 30ff and it takes it till 5000 rpm to get some boost. Yay me.