Hi all, So first timer here and learning N54 platform. I am acquiring a 2010 335i Coupe RWD AT, with it are a couple mods, 19Ts ver 3 from the looks, Helix 4x, LPFP upgrade. The car did have a MHD tune but could not find much info. The car suffered a engine failure either rod or main. So a used engine was purchased and everything was transplanted. I purchased a JB4 and did a BEF using the JB4 Hybrid E85 file. I used VCV setting found here. I did some around the block driving for initial shake downs. Just some small issues and randomly failed upstream O2's. So with that the issue im seeing is lean AFR's and HPFP is pretty all over the place. Included is just a long file of around the block. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
N54 First timer, First tune REV with HELIX
- Thread starter Wondering_Wobble
- Start date
Welcome! Hard to tell what’s going on just driving around the block. Usually better diagnosis with pulls in 3rd gear 2500-6000+ rpm, shifting to 4th. You’ll be hitting 90 mph+ so please be mindful of others. Are those JB4 parameters in the Datazap? I think most people on the forum speak MHD. Also any codes?
Keep in mind: maintenance before mods. Understood you got the car as-is with some mods on it. Did you happen to get its maintenance history? Here are the key things to look for / maintain in N54s (I’ve had my 2008 335 xi AT since new, now 72K miles and meticulously maintained):
1) oil leaks around oil filter housing and oil cooler housing. Notorious for getting on your belt and potentially causing the belt to degrade / fly off / get sucked into the engine behind the flywheel.
2) walnut blasting of intake valves - usually every ~15K miles, depending
3) fuel injectors - are they 12s? Installed correctly? Any blow-by?
4) Oil changes and filter every 5K miles, depending
5) coolant changes every 30k miles
6) AT transmission oil change every 30k miles, depending.
7) AT solenoids and seals every 60-80k miles
8) Transfer case oil change every 30k miles (if x-drive / not you, luckily)
9) differential oil change every 60k miles
10) engine mounts, especially the right one next to the downpipes that fails first because it gets so hot there. It will affect how the engine lines up with your AT tranny and if sagging will induce timing pulls, I believe. Replace it with the one for the 1M car and wrap it in gold hot foil (I did this).
11) Coolant pump (get the aluminum one) and thermostat every 60K miles.
12) Replace the stock radiator (they all eventually leak before 100K miles) with all-aluminum like CSF. Mine failed at 70K miles last winter. Typical plastic side mount failed where it’s bonded to metal).
13) Spark plugs as needed. Plenty of discussion here on which ones / which gap / which coils etc.
14) One more big oil leak to keep an eye on: the oil pan gasket. Huge PITA
, especially on xi which is best done by removing the subframe (e.g., the wheels, brakes, axles, pedestal, and front diff. But while it’s all off it makes working on the turbos / exhaust and water pump and thermostat easy-peasy… ask me how I know.)
15) …? N54 Veterans: what other maintenance items shall we advise our new friend to consider?
So please report back after you’ve taken care of all of the above items, installed MHD, and do some good pulls.
We look forward to working with you.
Again, welcome!
Keep in mind: maintenance before mods. Understood you got the car as-is with some mods on it. Did you happen to get its maintenance history? Here are the key things to look for / maintain in N54s (I’ve had my 2008 335 xi AT since new, now 72K miles and meticulously maintained):
1) oil leaks around oil filter housing and oil cooler housing. Notorious for getting on your belt and potentially causing the belt to degrade / fly off / get sucked into the engine behind the flywheel.
2) walnut blasting of intake valves - usually every ~15K miles, depending
3) fuel injectors - are they 12s? Installed correctly? Any blow-by?
4) Oil changes and filter every 5K miles, depending
5) coolant changes every 30k miles
6) AT transmission oil change every 30k miles, depending.
7) AT solenoids and seals every 60-80k miles
8) Transfer case oil change every 30k miles (if x-drive / not you, luckily)
9) differential oil change every 60k miles
10) engine mounts, especially the right one next to the downpipes that fails first because it gets so hot there. It will affect how the engine lines up with your AT tranny and if sagging will induce timing pulls, I believe. Replace it with the one for the 1M car and wrap it in gold hot foil (I did this).
11) Coolant pump (get the aluminum one) and thermostat every 60K miles.
12) Replace the stock radiator (they all eventually leak before 100K miles) with all-aluminum like CSF. Mine failed at 70K miles last winter. Typical plastic side mount failed where it’s bonded to metal).
13) Spark plugs as needed. Plenty of discussion here on which ones / which gap / which coils etc.
14) One more big oil leak to keep an eye on: the oil pan gasket. Huge PITA
, especially on xi which is best done by removing the subframe (e.g., the wheels, brakes, axles, pedestal, and front diff. But while it’s all off it makes working on the turbos / exhaust and water pump and thermostat easy-peasy… ask me how I know.)15) …? N54 Veterans: what other maintenance items shall we advise our new friend to consider?
So please report back after you’ve taken care of all of the above items, installed MHD, and do some good pulls.
We look forward to working with you.
Again, welcome!
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OFH gasket was changed the donor engine was none cooled. Has NGK 2 step colder plugs, Trans was "rebuilt" 10K did pull filter to change the connector pass through as there was fluid in connector. internally trans looked brand new, minimal metal/Clutch material on magnets. Rad is stock will be looking at the CSF as a upgrade, water pump is a generic unfortunately and will be replaced when I can. Injectors are not 12s they are 9s, walnut blasted before first start, passenger mount was bad was replaced. Did relocated inlets and catch can. I have no history on engine prior to now. But did go with 5w40 liquid moly. I'm looking mostly for advice on the helix setup that way the cars drivable and safe tune wise. I'm not a novice when it comes to modding and working on vehicles. I have a 1G DSM that i built as a drag car. I did all everything from engine to trans to stand alone. I plan on doing all the performance longevity mods in due time. Thank you for the tips though
Its on E, id have to do a fuel sample to see what percentage but from my experience it smells like E80.
Here's a small revision. Revised some maps that really shouldn't have been changed with to begin with: Torque Max, Torque Eff Divisor, Disable Tq Reduction by Ign. I also highly recommend setting Boost Request Offset back to stock as its a really complex and unfortunately mislabeled map, but left it alone as it will have an effect on trims.
Your scalars should be an okay baseline for ethanol but your 50 trims at 140 load is not right. Have you reset your lambda adaptations?
Unfortunately jb4 doesn't have nearly as many logging parameters as flash only MHD but still try to reset your adaptations besides throttle.
Your scalars should be an okay baseline for ethanol but your 50 trims at 140 load is not right. Have you reset your lambda adaptations?
Unfortunately jb4 doesn't have nearly as many logging parameters as flash only MHD but still try to reset your adaptations besides throttle.
Adaptions where not reset. I will reset those. The table changes though idk, that was a BEF map from jb4. I modified only the VCV tables for the helix.
Alright, Had problems resetting Adaptations. Protools would not confirm if they where reset and would trip brake and dsc light on dash and would not reconnect unless power cycled. I was able to reset through MHD. Fuel trims are still extremly high and afrs are still a bit lean in boost. https://datazap.me/u/arthris/e85-jb4-helix-revised?log=0&data=1-4-9-10-18-24&zoom=2518-2617
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