FBO ON A BUDGET FTW (MAY 2018)
Vehicle: 2009 BMW 335i e92
Trans: Six Speed AutomaticMileage: 109k
Vehicle: 2007 BMW 335i e90 Trans: Six Speed ManualMileage: 170k
Both vehicles were 100% stock when I bought.
No maintenance records. But No issues presently.
First thing I did was contact Matt Malave at znmperformance.com to purchase my key maintenance items. Matt will beat or match pricing on OEM or OE replacement parts to keep our N5X’s healthy. He also offers an in-rivaled Lifetime Warranty on “including wear items” like brakes, rotors, gaskets, plugs, coils, etc. and Hassle Free Returns on EVERYTHING they sell. That said, I bought my Eldor N55 coils, NGK 95770 One Step Colder Spark Plugs, and the BMW ZF Trans Maintenance Kit. He shipped it all same day (stock items) they arrived in 3 days to Detroit, from New Jersey.Matt Malave
⚫️ +1 (973) 945-2727
www.znmperformance.com
Next to Harbor Freight and bought my Walnut Blasting Gear. Links to what I bought will be listed below. Then got on BavAuto and purchased my BMW OEM Port adapter for the intake ports which connects to any Wet/Dry vacuum. At the time this was $89 shipped and arrived in 3 days. Link below.
https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-adapter-81292208037
Maintenance:
I performed the trans maintenance, changed the plugs, checked the OFHG and VCG for leaks. None to be seen. I also checked my WaterPumps visual condition previously and seen it was already a new unit, so I opted not to replace it again. I’ll post links for all these items anyways.
Water Pump Kit:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-n54-waterpump-kit-11517632426znm/
NGK 95770 Spark Plugs:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-ilzkbr7a-8dg-spark-plug-ngk-95770/
Eldor N54/N55 Coils:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-eldor-12138657273/
Delphi N54/N55 Coils:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-delphi-12138616153/
BMW OE Oil Filter Kit:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-engine-oil-filter-kit-mann-11428683196/
Victor Reinz OFHG:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-engine-oil-filter-housing-gasket-reinz-11428637821/
Victor Reinz Valve Cover Gasket:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-valve-cover-gasket-victor-reinz-11127565286/
ÜRO Valve Cover:
http://znmperformance.com/bmw-valve-cover-uro-11127565284/
BMW Genuine Coolant:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014...mw+coolant&dpPl=1&dpID=31k1nTOUhyL&ref=plSrch
Remote Coding:
So initially I had some coding issues I wanted reconciled. A faulty TPMS, Headlight Errors, faulty brake pad sensor, and other small issues. Please guys, contact Dylan Strickland at BimmerGeeks for any and all coding needs. He’s super helpful and a wiz at whatever wizardry it is that he performs lol. He coded my car remotely while I ate dinner w/family. He also hooked me up w/ a new Data Cable after the cheap Amazon Cable didn’t work, and overnighted it to me via FedEx.
What he did:
- Alpina Transmission Flash
- Coding out my TPMS errors
- Coding out my headlight errors
- Added comfort access functions:
- Digital Speedo, and even a few
more things I haven’t even seen yet.
Dylan Strickland
www.bimmergeeks.net
After maintenance and coding error correction, I decided to start sourcing my FBO and tuning options. I bought used HTC M8 Android for $20 and downloaded MHD for N54 from the Google Play Store.
TIP: Register a new Gmail and Play Store Account using your VIN so selling the car, you can include the MHD license and Google Login for the new owner!!Now that I have MHD installed, Purchase the Monitoring, Flasher Module, and Stage Tune Pack you desire. For me it was the Stage 2 and 2+ Map Pack.
Now to start sourcing my FBO parts.
So for that I’ll need:
3” Catless Downpipes Intake or Inlets Kit Front Mount Intercooler Upgraded LPFP (to run e85 tunes) Charge Pipe and Blow Off ValveWhat I bought:
- VRSF 3” Catless Down Pipes
- VRSF 335D Charge Pipe
- VRSF Race Front Mount Intercooler
- VRSF Relocated Silicone Inlets
- BMP PNP Stage 2 LPFP
- TiAL Q Blow Off Valve
Links to each of the following below!!______________________________________________________
UPDATE: I am a VRSF Dealer so you you can order your VRSF / MMP / Revshift / ViE / Misfire Racing / parts directly through me also!!
Email or PM: [email protected]
Or buy through the N5X /// WORLD store.
______________________________________________________
Let me start with my 3” Catless Down Pipes. There are a ton of stainless 3” DPs out there for our cars. DO YOUR RESEARCHDon’t just ask what everyone else bought or you’ll likely over pay, or end up with an untested or improperly designed product. From my research, 90% of the DPs available are stainless steel welded bends manufactured in China, and sold here in the US for $200-$400 a set. I found the VRSF and 1320 DPs are the ONLY DPs that utilize the superior Mandrel Bent design making for a significantly smoother inside finish with almost no chance of cracking or breaking welds. Using fewer welds also allows the DPs to maintain a continuous 3” ID throughout. BONUS: They are also are priced much less than companies offering what I consider to be an inferior design. I chose VRSF this time around for the ease of fitment as the 1320 DPs were a very very snug fit in my e93 and caused a little more pain during the install. I had no fitment issues installing them, although fitment is extremely tight while installing the front turbo DP. So if you buy these and have an issue, PM me, I’ll walk you through the install. VRSF 3” Mandrel DPs available now, fit like a glove and were very easy to install. No swearing necessary. Either I recommend, tho for convenience, and function, and Lifetime Warranty, go with VRSF.
http://picbear.online/media/1624887768940054391_421991623[\IMG]
Now for the Charge Pipe. Similar to the DPs there are a ton of options. Ranging from $130-$600 Yes. Crazy. I thought so also. So I said F-that, I’m buying the $130 one on eBay, If it don’t fit, I’ll send it back... I paid $130 the Charge Pipe fit, but the coating was trash and the flange was out of round so fitment on the throttle body was meh at best... this was on my first 335 e93, now long gone. So, lesson learned, this time around, I went w/ what everyone said to get when I previously asked what to buy w/o doing any research. Then, and now, VRSF was and is the only response from the majority. A staggeringly high response at that... so I bought it. This time the 335D CP. Now why a 335D CP instead of the standard 335i/135i CP? Well, first off, it fits both the 135i and 335i chassis equipped w/ the N54 Engine, just like the standard CP. But he real benefit is if you EVER plan to make real power, you’ll likely choose to go Big Single Turbo, or you’ll upgrade intakes to VRSF / MMP / or Ronix Silicone or Solid Relocated Inlets. That said, if you care about how tidy things look under the hood, and want to maintain a clean OE appearance after making either of those high power mods; (Inlets or Single Turbo) you’ll find you have to relocate your current coolant reservoir to the Driver side. (that’s the side the OE 335D coolant reservoir mounts) see where I’m going with this... So get the 335D CP now and don’t worry about having to buy it later when or if you upgrade to make more power later. If that’s not enough reason, the 335D VRSF only costs $199. That’s a bit less then the majority of others I’ve found from competitors, and only $10 more then their standard CP. Still need convincing? My favourite feature of the 335D CP is the way it “showcases” the TiAL or TS 50mm BOV high and up front. Like a crown sitting out for all to see. In summary, I personally think it looks better. It showcases that $250 TiAL BOV. Allows for future modifications to be installed and still maintain an OE appearance. And finally, it costs less then most, it’s guaranteed for life, and proven fitment. Next, the Blow Off Valve: I’m going to get sh*t for this, but this is a budget build thread, and hopefully you’ll give me the benefit of the doubt since I’ve done the R&D before posting. Maybe I’m right maybe I’m wrong. Long story short, I bought an eBay BOV from Speed Daddy for my e93 w/VRSF CP and it worked awesome. No issues. No lights. Nada. But that was a stock PSI car. No tune, no other mods, and I was a newb. This time around, I wanted to kno why not just buy another knock off TiAL Q Chinese BOV. So I ordered a genuine TiAL BOV from Amazon ($259), and a Chinese TiAL knockoff on eBay for ($38). When they both arrived. I compared them side by side. Aside from the lack of logo, and color of the included O-Ring, the “SPEED DADDY” TiAL Replica BOV appeared to be almost identical. Subtle tooling marks from not tumbling the knock offs before having them anodized, but otherwise I found no difference. I bench tested both, the included spring on the knock off said it was 10PSI. It’s tested at 13PSI. However the Genuine TiAL using the same spring tested almost the same PSI 13.6. So, I decided to return the genuine TiAL and keep the $38 replica for now, as I’ve been disappointed w/TiAL lately. So we’ll see how this BOV performs long term. Most kno by now, I’m willing to test any products before saying if it’s great or if it’s crap. So I’ve linked below the BOV I’m using below. I’ve bought 4 of these “SPEED DADDY” BOVs now and one had a piston seat issue. They exchanged it no hassle. No issues otherwise. TIP: ALWAYS BENCH TEST YOUR BOV BEFORE INSTALL!!! I’ll let the logs later speak for themselves. Shipping took 6 days, California to Detroit. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201772042602 Black Market Parts Stage 2 LPFP:When I was choosing a Low Pressure Fuel Pump, it was just a matter of who supplies one with everything needed for PNP at a competitive price. Black Market Parts hands down was by far the best deal available, as well as the most attractive kit for the money. Fuel it was another option as well as Vader Solutions. However For the money and product build quality, BMP couldn’t be beat. I PM’d them at BMP when inquiring, and they were very informative. They asked what my power goals were, other fueling upgrades planned, etc. Then set me up w/their Stage 2 kit, and shipped it out the next day. Best part, if you’re patient, They’ll even walk you through the install if needed. In summary I got a sick deal, and couldn’t be happier with the product thus far. Only 4 days from ordering to my door.
Specs; It’s a Walbro 455 Pump w/ their CNC anodized bucketless bracket. Upgrade yours, run e85 and really feel the power our cars are capable of.Contact Name?
[URL='http://www.bm-parts.com']www.bm-parts.com
Now for the Front Mount Intercooler FMIC. Alright guys. Pay attention. I spent more time on selecting my FMIC then anything else by far. (Previous to selecting my new turbo kit, but that’s another thread ) I asked probably 50 different people and posted two separate threads gathering as much info on all the vast options available. I finally settled on the VRSF Race and PSP 900ic.The VRSF is simple. There are probably a thousand or more out there now and they’re the first and only proven FMIC to hold 1000WHP on a Dyno. So simply put, VRSF Race is a win every time. Hands down.
On my previous build I bought a 900ic. I did so because Dusty Waterfall at PSP really knows his stuff. I watched him post comment after comment explaining fluid dynamics, IATs, fluid pressure, airflow, and more. Add to that the 900ic unrivaled beauty, and how the PSP also uses an HD Core w/FPI of 18. I chose to get one as well.
I have to say, they both get the job done. Both controlled IATs beautifully. Neither shown any signs of boost leak. Both are very attractive behind the grill and both are comparable in price.
The PSP FMIC is by far the most beautiful I have seen from any other vendor. His welds are so clean they look machined. Both the VRSF Race and PSP 900ic include quality T-bolt clamps, Mounting Hardware, and include couplers, and a lower chargepipe.
In summary I’ve bought both now, and have nothing bad to say of either. I do currently have the VRSF Race on my e92 Single Turbo build as it’s proven to handle the highest power level, which I’m going to need when I install my newest kit being built by Jon Vigil at ViE.
Also, tank design, anyone who has a basic understanding of fluid dynamics will agree that a cast, smooth curved end tank will flow more efficiently then hard angled sheet metal end tanks. That said the VRSF may not look like a work or art, but in this case FORM < FUNCTION wins.
Tiago Viera
www.vr-speed.com
VRSF RACE 1000 HP - $670https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/vp/0e42c4be6ff00ffb42cfe9cdc9f277ed/5B790341/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/31421681_1833149320084488_7535834843150548992_n.jpg
Dusty Waterfall
www.fasterbypinnacle.com
PSP 900ic - $670 Finally, Dual Cone Intakes, Inlets, etc:So let me start by saying, you bought a BMW. The ultimate driving machine. A Performance Luxury car if you will. All the people running those ghetto looking DCIs that cost $69-$129 for two pieces of plastic pipe, and generic cone filters, how can you put such an ugly product in such an otherwise attractive engine bay? I kno I kno, it’s about the FUNCTION > FORM... well for me that thought process doesn’t register.
I wanted my engine bay to be pretty. So on my old e93 I installed the Injen DCI System. This in my opinion is the best looking DCI setup for the money. It’s around $349 shipped. It looks fantastic and sounds amazing. If you want a nice looking Performance Intake, and don’t want to upgrade to 40% higher flowing Relocated Inlets, I strongly suggest and endorse the Injen DCI kit.
If you must and can’t afford $349... don’t want to do the work installing inlets, but want improved intake performance, BUY THE PSP DCIs. At least they’re quality filters, and Carbon Fiber Pipe connections. But still these kits look like a mid-90’s Single Cam Honda; eBay Intake IMO.
PSP DCIs: https://fasterbypinnacle.com/product/air-filters/
PSA: DONT USE POD FILTERS!Some of you may remember my previous thread where I wanted to run HiFlo Pod Filters on my stock twin turbos (like the larger filters on the Single Turbo guys cars. DONT DO IT. We’ve beta tested three different flowing pods and all caused excess pressure inside the compressor housing ultimately causing severe internal turbulence and eventually failure of the turbo seals.
JUST SAY NO TO PODS:
NO EATING TIDE PODS NO RUNNING TURBO PODS NO STORAGE PODSSo after fighting Silicone Radiator Hose’esk Relocated Inlets for almost a year... I caved and and surrendered to the data. +40% improved flow over stock inlets. It’s the highest flowing performance option available to date... however, still, this is where I have a problem. Of all the bright people out there developing performance parts for our cars, silicone relocated and or OE location inlets can’t possibly be our only option right? I mean melting radiator hoses? Really? The sad truth answer, yes. They’re our best option for getting the most power out of our intake system.
To be frank, the majority of complaints Ive seen, I’ve come to realize could have been prevented if there were a proper step by step DIY install to follow. Incorrect installation, usually resulting in melting the inlet doesn’t have to continue, and I’ll post a link here when I’ve finished it:
( Coming Soon - DIY Inlets Install)In summary, you have a few intake options for improved performance.
Tiago Viera
www.vr-speed.com
Relocated Inlets SiliconeMauricio Madrid
www.mmp-e.com
Relocated Inlets SolidJake Ulch
www.facebook.com/N5XWORLD
Injen Dual Cone IntakesDusty Waterfall
www.fasterbypinnacle.com
PSP Dual Cone Intakes
So here I am.. I’m FBO. Everything is installed. Engine cleaned. I’m ready to flash. As mentioned above, I elected to skip the MHD Stage 1 OTS maps and went straight to MHD Stage 2+. Done.
Now last thing I want to suggest is getting a custom tune when you’ve completed your build. I highly recommend the creator of all the MHD OTS maps and Owner of Wedge Performance, Ken Atkinson.Ken has tuned both my cars and countless others. He’s a great friend and even better tuner. Trusted. Reliable. And true to the premise of this thread, he affordable. Tunes start at $300. Go see Ken and get a custom remote tune on your car. You won’t regret it.
Ken Atkinson
www.wedgeperformance.com
Real quick, I also bought some little cosmetic things cheap. Amazon and eBay.
Courtesy Logo Lights: $12
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/222717284076
Matte Grills: $28
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/112294863317
Gloss German Grills: $33
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/132335872166
LED Halo Bulbs: $38
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/141836273762
Alright. So, bringing everybody up to speed. I didn’t just go buy whatever I was told. I did my own research and decided for myself using my basic knowledge of cars, fluid dynamics and physics. I even managed to save a few bucks choosing to buy from a mix of sources, suppliers, and vendors. Thus far I couldn’t be happier w/everything I’ve bought.For people wondering. After installing everything. Performing all the maintenance, and flashing MHD Stage 2+, I can report, knock on wood, I have zero DME codes or errors. None whatsoever. Call it luck. Call it a glitch in the DME.
Either way, things look promising based solely on the lack of DME codes and the overall feel of what I would say is a healthy, happy, performance engine.
So I’m stoked.
PLEASE NOTE THESE ARE MY SUGGESTIONS AND ARE ALL PROVEN PRODUCTS ON THE PLATFORM, BUT THEY ARE IN NO WAY THE ONLY OPTIONS AVAILABLE. THIS POST IS INTENDED TO BE USED AS A REFERENCE FOR ANY MEMBERS NEWBS LIKE MYSELF LOOKING TO SOURCE FBO BUILD PARTS, BUT MAY BE UNSURE WHERE TO BEGIN. THANKS FOR READING!!- jake@misfire-racing[/URL]
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