Engine Break-In
- Thread starter mnick
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I would follow my builder's recommendation to a tee. If you don't trust what he wants you to do, you probably don't trust the motor he just built 
. That said, old days used to be conventional oil for break-in but I don't see that going on now. Factory motors have not been doing that for a long time.
I'd be asking oil brand, if he cares, how many miles before oil change, and if he wants you to do anything specific in the break-in procedure. Honestly who cares what a bunch of us forum people think - the builder is the guy you need to trust. It's kind of like, you just had surgery and ... well ... who do you want to tell you what's needed post op? It'd be the surgeon.
Good luck with the break-in!
Filippo
. That said, old days used to be conventional oil for break-in but I don't see that going on now. Factory motors have not been doing that for a long time.I'd be asking oil brand, if he cares, how many miles before oil change, and if he wants you to do anything specific in the break-in procedure. Honestly who cares what a bunch of us forum people think - the builder is the guy you need to trust. It's kind of like, you just had surgery and ... well ... who do you want to tell you what's needed post op? It'd be the surgeon.
Good luck with the break-in!
Filippo
Same, I used joe Gibbs driven break in oil for the first 500 miles then Fuchs Titan pro race S 5w/40.
Flashed back to stock (8psi) for the first 500 miles.
That’s with Carrillo rods, JE 9.5:1 copression ratio.
Fmorelli is right tho listen to your builder.
Flashed back to stock (8psi) for the first 500 miles.
That’s with Carrillo rods, JE 9.5:1 copression ratio.
Fmorelli is right tho listen to your builder.
I was instructed to drive it normal, up and down the rpm ranges but not to beat on it. Drove on wastegate psi.
Are you doing your own build if you are I am pretty sure the most important thing is priming properly using paste and if new cam I would follow the cam manufacturer break in guidelines with any good break in oil if they dont rec one. Also on a fresh build most important was cam second main bearings so usually after quick run complying with your crank and cam break in if instructions ,if not I would put no load on engine and then swap oil after no more than 20 min and then run a dino oil with varying load and rpm staying below 4k for few hundred miles to let rings cut cyl and not develop hot spots then switch to whatever your gonna run for another 500 to 1k.
Sorry almost forgot I did this with a 4.6 and also helped a friend with a 460 the 460 was flat tappet and was prob more picky about break in than most hydraulic would be but both times was royal purple break In and we ran engine from 2k to 4k making sure to not drop below 2k rpm for the 20 min, I was told this was to make sure proper lubrication at top of motor . Most engine builders run reg oil with an engine oil supplement and do not rec any synthetic for break In more so with flat tappet but also hydraulic cams as well
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I would follow my builder's recommendation to a tee. If you don't trust what he wants you to do, you probably don't trust the motor he just built
I'd be asking oil brand, if he cares, how many miles before oil change, and if he wants you to do anything specific in the break-in procedure. Honestly who cares what a bunch of us forum people think - the builder is the guy you need to trust. It's kind of like, you just had surgery and ... well ... who do you want to tell you what's needed post op? It'd be the surgeon.
Good luck with the break-in!
Filippo
Thanks Filippo,
I do advocate compliance with post-op instructions and restrictions... but like many post op protocols there are inconsistencies, and a lack of consensus within the medical community. Your analogy is rather apropos. I think there is insight in surveying the community regarding this topic and discussion as is done in the medical community.
I see many recommendations for the conventional break-in oil...
Motoman method. Break in a motor how you plan to treat it. Broke several motors in this way with excellent results.
Ok so. Drive the car up to operating temp for about 10 miles up to 4K rpm then drop oil and inspect. (First heat cycle done) Fill with Fresh break in oil and then drive the car with as much varying rpm as possible all the way up to 6.5k rpm but OFF LOAD and also coast in gear as much as possible to pull a vacuum.
After the first couple hundred miles I really started to work the Engine harder and harder. Firm believer of breaking it in hard like you plan to use it! And my car runs strong dynoed good numbers on a very conservative pump gas tune.
As for reference to rob09msport’s post to get those rings to seat properly you want to get it into the upper rpm ranges do not stay below 4K after the first heat cycle is done use the the car!
A good break in oil like joe Gibbs has everything needed to help seat rings and cams etc...
Your Gona hear lots of varying trains of thought on this matter! This is just mine!
Hope this helps
I just used typical luqi molly 5w30
Start car got it up to temp changed oil. After that did a 500 mile break in and changed the oil again. Did a couple of pulls and changed the oil one more time.
Just pulled the eng apart to do headstuds and decided to check everything and the bearings still look new after about 2k miles and a dozen of dyno pulls @ 30psi.
The clearance between the crank and main bearings are very tight on these engines for some reason. I wouldn't go any higher then 5w30 on break in. AMS oil makes a good break in oil if you want to use a true brake in oil but frequent oil changes at first will work the same.
Don't be alarm by some metal flakes on first couple of oil changes
Start car got it up to temp changed oil. After that did a 500 mile break in and changed the oil again. Did a couple of pulls and changed the oil one more time.
Just pulled the eng apart to do headstuds and decided to check everything and the bearings still look new after about 2k miles and a dozen of dyno pulls @ 30psi.
The clearance between the crank and main bearings are very tight on these engines for some reason. I wouldn't go any higher then 5w30 on break in. AMS oil makes a good break in oil if you want to use a true brake in oil but frequent oil changes at first will work the same.
Don't be alarm by some metal flakes on first couple of oil changes
I've
I actually just switched to 30 right bio syn and had internal battle of 40 or 30. Everything I have read says the 30 will protect better cause of greater flow and that most important is film strength. I agree with our tight tolerances a 30 may be way to go and only at track I think will I run a 40 weight not sure yet .it is scary for such a simple thing when we invest so much in our cars and I am not even built ,hoping to keep it that way for a while to lol
Update and an amalgamation of what I have seen from several sources.
Regarding oil:
Nonsynthetic break-in oil various brands: Joe Gibbs, Penn, Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil
(Kenjermen - did use synthetic Molly and -30 due to factory tolerances)
1. Prime Motor / turbo - remove plugs and disconnect fuel injectors, turn engine for 15 - 30 seconds may repeat 1-3 times. Watch oil psi if possible.
2. Start Motor - (93 OTC MAP, wastegate psi, or good known MAP) watch oil psi, look for leaks, allow motor temp to heat up or ideal for 20 min and/or vary 2-3k rpm. Some do first oil and oil filter change here.
3. Seat Piston Rings - drive 20-50 (some say 100) miles under low load (some recommend high load) do a long pull (rpm recommendation are inconsistent) then Vacuum Pull or allow engine braking.
4. First oil / oil filter change - again break-in oil for 200 or 500 miles. Some recommend removal of oil pan.
5. Second oil / oil Filter change - again break-in oil or some will use synthetic at this point. For those repeating the break-in oil, will drive for another 200 to 1000 miles.
6. Completion: final oil / oil filter change - run your favorite oil and change it every 2 - 3k miles.
Thanks all for your opinions. Hope to start my motor middle of this coming week.
Regarding oil:
Nonsynthetic break-in oil various brands: Joe Gibbs, Penn, Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil
(Kenjermen - did use synthetic Molly and -30 due to factory tolerances)
1. Prime Motor / turbo - remove plugs and disconnect fuel injectors, turn engine for 15 - 30 seconds may repeat 1-3 times. Watch oil psi if possible.
2. Start Motor - (93 OTC MAP, wastegate psi, or good known MAP) watch oil psi, look for leaks, allow motor temp to heat up or ideal for 20 min and/or vary 2-3k rpm. Some do first oil and oil filter change here.
3. Seat Piston Rings - drive 20-50 (some say 100) miles under low load (some recommend high load) do a long pull (rpm recommendation are inconsistent) then Vacuum Pull or allow engine braking.
4. First oil / oil filter change - again break-in oil for 200 or 500 miles. Some recommend removal of oil pan.
5. Second oil / oil Filter change - again break-in oil or some will use synthetic at this point. For those repeating the break-in oil, will drive for another 200 to 1000 miles.
6. Completion: final oil / oil filter change - run your favorite oil and change it every 2 - 3k miles.
Thanks all for your opinions. Hope to start my motor middle of this coming week.
That is a good plan to follow. All my motors I've broken in basically that way except #3, after 30ish miles of allot of engine braking, drive it like you stole it. Then change oil around 100-150ish miles then go to town at normal intervals.
Did you have your Blackstone Lab results you would like to share with us? How did the Driven 5w30 break in oil work out for you?
