E93 Sway Bar ?

Subwoofer

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
267
48
0
Ride
335i
So I’ve been putting a lot of effort into power but not much in suspension.

I have a E93 335I, would the swap with the M3 front sway bar have a positive impact ? I’ve been reading online about if you don’t have a LSD it can cause problems. But I can’t see how that’s true.

I already have M3 control arms. I assume sway bar is plug and play?
 
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derekgates

Lieutenant
Feb 23, 2018
740
375
0
NW FL
derekgates.us
Ride
2011 335is
I asked @barry@3DM during my order of Ohlins rebuild if sway bars (M3) were worth the upgrade:

barry@3DM said:
I would definitely do the M3 front bar or any of the after market bars such as Eibach or H&R. If you are doing a lot of track driving I would stick with the stock rear sway bar. Sounds like you do some autoX stuff, if so then I would do the M3 rear bar. It will help rotate around the corners better than the rear bar. Its also OK for the track too. So I guess in a nutshell, yes, go with the M3 bars if you are there doing the work. If you do replace the anti roll bar linkages, use Lemforder brand.
 

martymil

Major General
Sep 6, 2017
3,331
1,910
0
Down Under
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S65 1m
Get the e93 m3 sway bar as its bigger than the e92 m3 one.

I have one on my 1m for over 3 years now.
 

ShocknAwe

Captain
Jan 24, 2018
1,573
1
801
0
Charleston, SC
Ride
N54/3 1er ///Mutt
Not a proponent of thicker sway bars here. Had several and once proper dampers and alignment were done with increased spring rates it really didn't help. Using stock bars F/R now.
 

ajm8127

Specialist
Jul 16, 2020
69
135
0
PA - US
Ride
2007 E90 335i
I have the Eibach bars front and rear. I think they made an improvement, but not nearly as much as coilovers. Sway bars were my final suspension mod. All my driving is on the street. I have most of the supporting mods as well (Ground Control coilovers 440 lb/in front 650 rear linear springs with custom valved Koni Yellow dampers, M3 arms front and rear, subframe bushings, front tension strut and rear LCA poly bushings). I have had an LSD since I bought the car.

I would say the "proper" procedure is tune your springs and dampers to your liking first, then asses if the car has too much roll or has understeer or oversteer characteristics. If the whole car rolls too much, stiffen both bars. If the car understeers, stiffen the rear bar. If the car oversteers, stiffen the front bar. If you are going to get an LSD do that before the sway bars because it can affect understeer/oversteer characteristics.

Honestly, I would save your money for an LSD (Quaife/Wavetrac for the street) and shocks and springs first. If that is out of the question, asses the roll stiffness/understeer/oversteer characteristics. Have you done the subframe bushings yet? If you have higher mileage (especially 100,000+) you may just benefit from new shocks. I like my Koni Yellows. I have had them since 2013. You don't want to add a new sway bar if your shocks are worn out.

Which M3 arms do you have specifically? There is the front lower control arm and tension strut, the rear upper control arms and the rear lower control arm. If adding a rear M LCA to a non-M subframe, you will need a rear adjustable toe link to get toe correct (at least I did). The M3 rear LCAs are longer to increase camber, but the M3 toe arm and subframe are also different. I was unable to get proper rear toe with the non-M toe link and subframe.
 

ShocknAwe

Captain
Jan 24, 2018
1,573
1
801
0
Charleston, SC
Ride
N54/3 1er ///Mutt
I have the Eibach bars front and rear. I think they made an improvement, but not nearly as much as coilovers. Sway bars were my final suspension mod. All my driving is on the street. I have most of the supporting mods as well (Ground Control coilovers 440 lb/in front 650 rear linear springs with custom valved Koni Yellow dampers, M3 arms front and rear, subframe bushings, front tension strut and rear LCA poly bushings). I have had an LSD since I bought the car.

I would say the "proper" procedure is tune your springs and dampers to your liking first, then asses if the car has too much roll or has understeer or oversteer characteristics. If the whole car rolls too much, stiffen both bars. If the car understeers, stiffen the rear bar. If the car oversteers, stiffen the front bar. If you are going to get an LSD do that before the sway bars because it can affect understeer/oversteer characteristics.

Honestly, I would save your money for an LSD (Quaife/Wavetrac for the street) and shocks and springs first. If that is out of the question, asses the roll stiffness/understeer/oversteer characteristics. Have you done the subframe bushings yet? If you have higher mileage (especially 100,000+) you may just benefit from new shocks. I like my Koni Yellows. I have had them since 2013. You don't want to add a new sway bar if your shocks are worn out.

Which M3 arms do you have specifically? There is the front lower control arm and tension strut, the rear upper control arms and the rear lower control arm. If adding a rear M LCA to a non-M subframe, you will need a rear adjustable toe link to get toe correct (at least I did). The M3 rear LCAs are longer to increase camber, but the M3 toe arm and subframe are also different. I was unable to get proper rear toe with the non-M toe link and subframe.

Dunno about that rear LCA. When I did the M3 lower conversion the only difference was headlight bracket (got the modified version from HPA) and spring/damper position, which I wanted. I am using a custom length M toe arm copy, but it's specific to my nonM E82 rear chassis. No issues getting toe into spec with the stock length toe arm.

Cheers.
 

ajm8127

Specialist
Jul 16, 2020
69
135
0
PA - US
Ride
2007 E90 335i
Dunno about that rear LCA. When I did the M3 lower conversion the only difference was headlight bracket (got the modified version from HPA) and spring/damper position, which I wanted. I am using a custom length M toe arm copy, but it's specific to my nonM E82 rear chassis. No issues getting toe into spec with the stock length toe arm.

Cheers.

I admit I didn't explore all options for the toe arm, but I couldn't get toe in spec with the stock E90 toe arm on a non-M E90 subframe with an M rear LCA. It was always toed out too much which matches a longer LCA with a toe arm that is too short (toe arm mounts to the rear of the hub carrier forcing the front of the tire away from the car). I bought the Ground Control part because I knew it would give more adjustment than the stock parts and I was sure I could get toe in spec with it. It has boots and it has alway bee quiet - no clicking from the rod end.
 
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Subwoofer

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
267
48
0
Ride
335i
I asked @barry@3DM during my order of Ohlins rebuild if sway bars (M3) were worth the upgrade:
So maybe the OHLINS or m3 bar. Nice
Get the e93 m3 sway bar as its bigger than the e92 m3 one.

I have one on my 1m for over 3 years now.
Looks like that is the choice
Not a proponent of thicker sway bars here. Had several and once proper dampers and alignment were done with increased spring rates it really didn't help. Using stock bars F/R now.
it all seems to be different person to person, but I have found a solution

I have the Eibach bars front and rear. I think they made an improvement, but not nearly as much as coilovers. Sway bars were my final suspension mod. All my driving is on the street. I have most of the supporting mods as well (Ground Control coilovers 440 lb/in front 650 rear linear springs with custom valved Koni Yellow dampers, M3 arms front and rear, subframe bushings, front tension strut and rear LCA poly bushings). I have had an LSD since I bought the car.

I would say the "proper" procedure is tune your springs and dampers to your liking first, then asses if the car has too much roll or has understeer or oversteer characteristics. If the whole car rolls too much, stiffen both bars. If the car understeers, stiffen the rear bar. If the car oversteers, stiffen the front bar. If you are going to get an LSD do that before the sway bars because it can affect understeer/oversteer characteristics.

Honestly, I would save your money for an LSD (Quaife/Wavetrac for the street) and shocks and springs first. If that is out of the question, asses the roll stiffness/understeer/oversteer characteristics. Have you done the subframe bushings yet? If you have higher mileage (especially 100,000+) you may just benefit from new shocks. I like my Koni Yellows. I have had them since 2013. You don't want to add a new sway bar if your shocks are worn out.

Which M3 arms do you have specifically? There is the front lower control arm and tension strut, the rear upper control arms and the rear lower control arm. If adding a rear M LCA to a non-M subframe, you will need a rear adjustable toe link to get toe correct (at least I did). The M3 rear LCAs are longer to increase camber, but the M3 toe arm and subframe are also different. I was unable to get proper rear toe with the non-M toe link and subframe.
Hey man, so I have decided to go for the LSD first. Then go with coil overs after. I spoke to Barry about it because of the extra E93 weight.

I have the Upper and lower control arms installed. Was a bit of a PITA, but seems to be worth it. Car is definitely feeling better, although I was always out of tracking completely
 

martymil

Major General
Sep 6, 2017
3,331
1,910
0
Down Under
Ride
S65 1m
Yeah I run ohlins with four clicks of hard and its awesome a little stiff for my wife but I love it