Technical E82 2008 135i single turbo build

[Leon.iDirty5]

Posting my current project
E82 going single jingle

Speed tech kit and VS 6766 eventually want a 6262 or 6462 but I purchased with this size turbo

I currently have all hot parts installed and port injection installed now I’m fighting a charge pipe I purchased with stripped out map sensor hardware smh I ended up retapping and threading it up and put in the stock 2.5 bar I have a 3.5 bar with harness ready but I’ll be upgrading charge pipe later when that is needed
My current goal is to start and drive the car on waste gate because I also have a 6 speed swap going in !

For fuel the ultimate goal is my dual 450’s on E85 I have a reflex kit and also ethanol sensor already in the works I want to start the car and drive it make sure engine and kit and hardware is driveable before tuning and dialing in because I’ll be honost the cars stock auto trans started slipping on the twins when I had it on MHD stage 2

Anyone able to help out with plumbing ideas so that I can start the car and move on to the 6MT swap THEN I’m looking and tuning it . No point in tuning it now with so much changes still needed


Anyone able to help with my 4 port Mac selenoid and how I can get it on wastegate ?

Pics below of build process !

 

[ktb_e92]

See if the picture attached helps

 

[baronmellick]

Hello, wanted to share my own personal experience as I just Speedtech top mount and manual swapped my e92.

Your best bet is going to be pulling the engine and trans with the subframe in, and pulling out the front of the car. Do the swap while the engine is out as it will save you so much headache. Install a new rear main, Oil pan Gasket, and rod bearings while your in there (Just trust me). Removing the trans is easy, just the 6 torque converter bolts and bell housing bolts and it'll pretty much fall off. When installing the oil pan gasket and rear main. Use a thin bead of Permatex ultra grey on the pan surface to help a more reliable seal. Do the same on the 3 and 9 o'clock position of your rear main seal.

Get some label tags from your local grocery store and label every wire and ground you remove (even if you think you'll remember) this includes lines and hoses to their respective positions.

Bag EVERY bolt. Even the ones you wont be using again.

You do not need a manual radiator, Guibo, or driveshaft. Buy some silicone bypass hose caps for the trans cooler ports on the radiator, and stretch the auto shaft to fit. The Guibo will bolt up (Do this while the trans is out). Also fill the trans with new fluid while it is out.

For the clutch and shifter. Get a DKM twin disk from FCP or an X-clutch, you wont want to get back in once you get done trust me. Get an RTD. Due to the simplicity of a chassis mounted shifter, you'll save the headache of finding all the OEM shifter parts (and it is a much easier install on an automatic car due to it using the stock shifter assembly bolts). You'll also need PN 21526864475 that will pass through the firewall into your master on your clutch pedal and connect to your slave. Bleeding is easy, it'll gravity bleed pretty easy.

For the wiring, get part number "61116911072" and follow Vehicular DIYs video for the wiring and coding, he explains it better than I ever could.

Id recommend "Fluent Tuned" for the tune to extract safe power.

Tips
Get a mini fire extinguisher to keep in the car, you never know.
Get push lock vacuum lines (1/8 NPT to 1/4" tubing) you'll blow silicone lines every pull (Ask me how I know)
When doing the coolant relocation, Ziptie the hose to the fan shroud and ac line to keep it away from the belt.
Don't over torque the coolant and oil ports for stock turbo lines, I stripped one out and had to helicoil.
Most important: Don't stress, I did this in my garage on jack stands with hand tools. You'll learn a lot, get mad, and lose motivation. But its so worth it in the end.

Any questions let me know, good luck