DIY Controller for Exhaust Valve

Subwoofer

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
267
48
0
Ride
335i
Hello all,

So I regularly do motorway trips, and since I snapped my nipple off of my valve I have just left it unplugged. It's a nice noise but can get a bit boring after a while.

Just want to share with all of you a diagram and a little tutorial on how to make your own cheap controller. After looking around online, I couldn't find any information around how to do it, plus there was a post on E90 about it, and someone took the idea and started selling them :tearsofjoy: (got to respect the hustle)

The photos and setup of this is all very loose, as I couldn't find my solder, but obviously if you don't have access to one, you can just strip the wire and connect them and use electrical tape to hide the rest of the copper.


VIDEO OF IT IN USE

THIS WILL BE PHOTO HEAVY

This is the PARTS list (obviously yours will be different prices/locations, as mine is UK) :

EV1 Male and Female Connector £4.99

Wireless relay with Remote £10.99 (Triple click the white button then click any button on remote to activate latched mode (needs power))

Wire Crimping Tool (Any) £7.99

17 AMP Cable 4M (Any Size/Colour) £3.90

PARTS List for if your nipple has snapped off, I used these but obviously you can use any size etc.

3.5MM Nipple to 1/8 NPT

Any 9MM drill bit which can slice through metal. Obviously start small and work your way up.

JB WELD / Any sticky epoxy which doesn't mind heat.

Also an Angle grinder, or any sort of metal cutting instrument to chop the threads.


Valve Controller Install :

I have added my wiring diagram to STEP 12

Step 1 : Gather all components listed above.

Step 2 : Ensure your board has all necessary connections (NC, COM, NO, +V, -V) there might be some variations but should be named in a similar fashion)
Board Bare.jpeg


Step 3 : Connect the cable (colour of your choice) to make a positive connection into the EV1 Female (look on diagram to confirm which side (this takes power))
Positive wires.jpeg
Positive connection.jpeg


Step 4 : Connect this newly made positive wire into COM and +V
Board Voltage.jpeg
IMG_3291.jpeg


Step 5 : Make the ground and EV1 Male Connector
Negative and EV1.jpeg


Step 6 : Attach the ground to the EV1 and find somewhere to place it follow cable to right side of EV1 (When its facing correct orientation)
Grounded to EV1.jpeg


Step 7 : In the same orientation of the original power line will need to be connected to either NC or NO. These stand for Normally-Closed and Normally-Open.
If you select Normally-Open it means the circuit is always broken. So the car will cold start with the exhaust fully open.
If you select Normally-Closed it means the circuit is powered so on cold start it will be powered and will close the valve.

Now pick which one you would like and connect it to NO or NC


Positive to Solenoid.jpeg


Step 8 : Open the boot/trunk and on the left hand side pull the trim to access the solenoid, its just some simple spin clips. Find one of the millions of tutorials online, same concept as finding your cars amplifier (if applicable)
Solenoid Pic.jpeg
Solenoid.jpeg
Solenoid Unplug.jpeg

Step 9 : Install the grounded plug somewhere (I found this bolt)
Grounded.jpeg


Step 10 : Install the positive wire into the OEM PLUG
Positive + OEM.jpeg


Step 11 : Connect the EV1 Male into the solenoid
EV1 Male Connected.jpeg


Step 12 : Enjoy.
Vacuum Controller.jpg




Nipple Install :

Step 1 : Either remove the exhaust or jack the back of car up enough to fit a drill under.

Step 2 : Grab the drill bit, and drill the hole.

Step 3 : Cut enough of the threads so that when you push the actuator arm by hand it goes fully in (I didn't realise this the first time)

Step 4 : Smother the rest of the threads or the socket side with JB weld (careful not to block the hole)

Step 5 : Stick it into the drilled holes, and make sure once its in to put some more JB around the outside so it creates a nice seal. Also test actuator arm works fully.

Valve Install.jpeg


Thanks for reading this, please ask any questions either on the thread or message me.
 
Last edited:

Anon1

Lurker
Apr 13, 2019
10
17
0
Ride
2013 135i DCT
Just a heads up, the valve is fully controllable with a DME tune. I tuned mine to only be open in sports mode.
 
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Subwoofer

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
267
48
0
Ride
335i
Nice write up.
Thanks man, took a while haha. Took longer to write and record than it did to make it.
Just a heads up, the valve is fully controllable with a DME tune. I tuned mine to only be open in sports mode.
Yeah I have heard about that, but this is for people who want control via a button. Makes it easier for some scenarios.
 
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fmorelli

Lieutenant General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
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E89 Z4 35i, F10 535d
Just a heads up, the valve is fully controllable with a DME tune. I tuned mine to only be open in sports mode.
Cripes who knew? That's hilarious that that thing is even controllable through the DME!
 

Excentii

New Member
Jun 30, 2021
5
0
0
Hi, I did as for a tutorial and I have one problem because the controller is switching but the exhaust does not close, I connected it as NO i have N55 2010 e92
 

Subwoofer

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
267
48
0
Ride
335i
Hi, I did as for a tutorial and I have one problem because the controller is switching but the exhaust does not close, I connected it as NO i have N55 2010 e92
Hello bud.

So let’s start,
Is the remote giving the unit power when it’s clicked “A” or “B”?
If so that’s good.
If you are confident your wiring is the same. Is the vacuum line attached like so

engine bay - solenoid - solenoid out - exhaust nipple.

Let me know if they are all connected up.
 

Excentii

New Member
Jun 30, 2021
5
0
0
Hello bud.

So let’s start,
Is the remote giving the unit power when it’s clicked “A” or “B”?
If so that’s good.
If you are confident your wiring is the same. Is the vacuum line attached like so

engine bay - solenoid - solenoid out - exhaust nipple.

Let me know if they are all connected up.
Everything works as it turned out after starting, but I wonder that immediately after stopping it closes and opens, but after some time it seems that the pressure was not what it could be caused by
 

Subwoofer

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
267
48
0
Ride
335i
Everything works as it turned out after starting, but I wonder that immediately after stopping it closes and opens, but after some time it seems that the pressure was not what it could be caused by
Yeah the engine needs to be on.

Is it all working now ?
 

Excentii

New Member
Jun 30, 2021
5
0
0
Yeah the engine needs to be on.

Is it all working now ?
on the fired as if he had no strength to open and close, do you also need to modify the vacuum bulb in the exhaust? as in the video, it does not work, I do not hear the sound of closing and opening

it only happens at a standstill when I go and change it, you can hear the difference
 

SLOWESTN54

Captain
Feb 9, 2021
1,243
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B.C. Canada
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2007 E92 335i
is your exhaust fully stock? Also try and blow through the plastic hardline that goes from the engine bay to the trunk with a air compressor.
 

Subwoofer

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
267
48
0
Ride
335i
on the fired as if he had no strength to open and close, do you also need to modify the vacuum bulb in the exhaust? as in the video, it does not work, I do not hear the sound of closing and opening

it only happens at a standstill when I go and change it, you can hear the difference
So if I am correct?

You are switching the engine on. Clicking any of the A/B buttons. The little circuit board is making a click noise?

And all of the vacuum is connected. Can you try take the vacuum line off either the solenoid outlet/actual valve side and see if the vacuum is coming.
is your exhaust fully stock? Also try and blow through the plastic hardline that goes from the engine bay to the trunk with a air compressor.
We will hopefully see in a sec
 

Excentii

New Member
Jun 30, 2021
5
0
0
So if I am correct?

You are switching the engine on. Clicking any of the A/B buttons. The little circuit board is making a click noise?

And all of the vacuum is connected. Can you try take the vacuum line off either the solenoid outlet/actual valve side and see if the vacuum is coming.

We will hopefully see in a sec
I have to check what pressure it gives and this is how it all works when the engine is running, everything works
 

nyt

Sergeant
Sep 15, 2019
331
1
289
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2010 335xi
Just a heads up, the valve is fully controllable with a DME tune. I tuned mine to only be open in sports mode.

How does the tuning for that work? Mine seems to just stay open. I haven't really dug into trying to change the tables yet. I checked the solenoid and confirmed it works, though. With voltage applied the valve closes.
 

Anon1

Lurker
Apr 13, 2019
10
17
0
Ride
2013 135i DCT
How does the tuning for that work? Mine seems to just stay open. I haven't really dug into trying to change the tables yet. I checked the solenoid and confirmed it works, though. With voltage applied the valve closes.
Check this thread, Anjuna's N55 Tuning Thread - Page 3 (e90post.com)

I managed to have the valve closed in Comfort and Sport and only open in Sport+. Best of both worlds :D. Also from what I remember, if you enable Burble, MHD will force the exhaust valve to always be open.
 

doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
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AZ
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2009 E93 335i
I gave the information on how to do this via Homelink to someone, but since the signal only shoots forward it didn't work very well since the antenna is in the trunk.

Just a heads up, the valve is fully controllable with a DME tune. I tuned mine to only be open in sports mode.

This seems like the most sensible way to do it, are there instructions for N54?