BMW 3.5 BAR 2D2E FAULT

[@juan35i]

I recently swapped to a 3.5 bar map sensor and flashed the car with the n20 option MHD only. After driving for a bit the vehicle runs rough and im getting a 2D2E THROTTLE ANGLE FAULT. i bought the adapter harness from bms but it had a little tab that i had to cut off on the harness side. Any idea what can it be?

 

[Kenjermen]

I recently swapped to a 3.5 bar map sensor and flashed the car with the n20 option MHD only. After driving for a bit the vehicle runs rough and im getting a 2D2E THROTTLE ANGLE FAULT. i bought the adapter harness from bms but it had a little tab that i had to cut off on the harness side. Any idea what can it be?

Have you try to reset throttle adaption, also double check and make sure everything is plugged in and the sensor is installed all the way

 

[@juan35i]

Have you try to reset throttle adaption, also double check and make sure everything is plugged in and the sensor is installed all the way

Yes double checked fitment and reset adaptations still does the same thing

 

[Kenjermen]

Yes double checked fitment and reset adaptations still does the same thing

What are you using for tuning?

 

[martymil]

Sounds like you got a counterfeit sensor as you shouldn't have to cut any tab off the harness, its straight plug and play with the option ticked in MHD.

Switch back to original sensor, revert the harness to factory position, untick the box in mhd and see if the problem goes away

 

[@juan35i]

What are you using for tuning?

Just the basic mhd beta v8 stage 2+ e50 flash nothing else

 

[@juan35i]

Sounds like you got a counterfeit sensor as you shouldn't have to cut any tab off the harness, its straight plug and play with the option ticked in MHD.

Switch back to original sensor, revert the harness to factory position, untick the box in mhd and see if the problem goes away

The sensor i dont believe so i swapped it with another 3.5bar sensor and it does the same thing. The adapter i brought straight from burger motor sport. I had no other choice but to stick with the stock one

 

[BQTuning]

If you interested shoot me an email [email protected] . Would like to send you a test map to run. I had couple of customers on my end that bought the BMS N20 kit and when they used the MHD 3.5bar support option they got those same codes. When I integrated N20 3.5bar calibration into the map itself they didnt get those codes anymore.

 

[doublespaces]

Pretty sure that mapping option is for jb4 people

 

[RSL]

Pretty sure that mapping option is for jb4 people

When you're running JB4 with 3.5 bar, JB4 handles the conversion with N20=1, flash needs to remain stock 2.5 bar or JB4 will rescale on top of it already being converted in the flash.

Sounds like BQ is saying there may be an intermittent issue with the flash time values writing or they may be writing different values than he uses.

 

[morffius]

I have the same problem with two different TMAP sensors. I have tried to use the checkbox on MHD with the same error.

 

[Jake@MHD]

@Martial@MHD

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Did you swap the rightf tmap out?

 

[Jedi135i]

Hello All,
was a fix ever found for this, I've been having the same issue for some time now. I tried various 3.5 bar sensors, I did a smoke test, I even change my entire engine harness. I am using MHD custom tune, GFB III controller with a 3.5 bar sensor.

 

[K.jameel]

Hi,
Did any one figure it out i have the same code?

 

[Spunkmtb]

I figured this out. It took 2 years & tons of late night deep Google dives & finally an email to BMS to confirm my knowledge.

My fix will only work if you have high flow inlets.

I emailed BMS (JB4) and they confirmed what I found for the fix & gave me settings to start at.

On menu 10 (100mph) lower the value to 3k rpm. On menu 12 lower to 2500rpm. When changing menu 12 it will change the FF/waste gate value. Mine went up. After 2 months I could sense the oscillating starting again, no code but I could see the needles bumping when driving with cruise on & definitely feel it. Menu 12 had reverted back to its original value which was about 3900 rpm. I lowered it to 2500 again & everything is good again.

If it doesn’t fix the issue menu 10 can go down to 2500. Here is a copy of the response from BMS.

“The 2D2E is a false alarm code that just means that boost is higher at part throttle, which is what we want anyway with tuning.
You can lower menu 12 on the JB4 steering wheel controls to lower response and also reduce chance for this fault.
You need to lower menu 12. Start by lowering it 300-500rpm. Then do a full throttle data log if still issues.
Menu 10 should be around 3000rpm”

I hope this helps someone or many someone’s.

 

[KnighTT]

I went down a very similar rabbit hole with 2D2E. The truth is there are several factors that can cause a 2D2E as well as AFR issues.

Mine would push my AFRs at idle to 19-20AFR and run rough as soon as the car ramped down from cold start. Lean and stinky. Driving around seemed OK but I could always tell it wasn't right. I replaced all the sensors, even swapped out new ones, tried a new throttle body, checked seals, and spent countless hours trying to figure it out.

My issue turned out to be that I have a full external PCV system, closed loop, dual catch cans, but I was not building enough vacuum in the intake manifold. Confirmed this with a vacuum gauge and later a manometer. It would not build up to the 18-22 in/Hg required and that immediately throws the 2D2E code. Also turned out it wasn't an intake leak. It was due to the design I followed for the external PCV system (Vargas). Their blueprint never mentioned the need for a check valve on the high side and the vacuum relief valve on the valve cover. (Thanks for this find going to martymil).

I also had EXCESSIVE crankcase vacuum after I resolved the lack of intake vacuum. The relief valve and an entire inspection of my PCV loops resolved the crankcase pressure.

Now I run ~ -20 in/Hg in the intake manifold and right around -3 in/Hg in the crankcase.

No more 2D2E and the car just purrs. It also changed the entire way the car drives at lower speeds.

 

[BoostN.54]

I went down a very similar rabbit hole with 2D2E. The truth is there are several factors that can cause a 2D2E as well as AFR issues.

Mine would push my AFRs at idle to 19-20AFR and run rough as soon as the car ramped down from cold start. Lean and stinky. Driving around seemed OK but I could always tell it wasn't right. I replaced all the sensors, even swapped out new ones, tried a new throttle body, checked seals, and spent countless hours trying to figure it out.

My issue turned out to be that I have a full external PCV system, closed loop, dual catch cans, but I was not building enough vacuum in the intake manifold. Confirmed this with a vacuum gauge and later a manometer. It would not build up to the 18-22 in/Hg required and that immediately throws the 2D2E code. Also turned out it wasn't an intake leak. It was due to the design I followed for the external PCV system (Vargas). Their blueprint never mentioned the need for a check valve on the high side and the vacuum relief valve on the valve cover. (Thanks for this find going to martymil).

I also had EXCESSIVE crankcase vacuum after I resolved the lack of intake vacuum. The relief valve and an entire inspection of my PCV loops resolved the crankcase pressure.

Now I run ~ -20 in/Hg in the intake manifold and right around -3 in/Hg in the crankcase.

No more 2D2E and the car just purrs. It also changed the entire way the car drives at lower speeds.

I’m having these issues if I use the method you said do you think it’ll fix my problem?

 

[BoostN.54]

I’m having these issues if I use the method you said do you think it’ll fix my problem?

Oh and ignore the oil level the car was at an incline pointing down that problem has been fixed lol

 

[ShocknAwe]

I went down a very similar rabbit hole with 2D2E. The truth is there are several factors that can cause a 2D2E as well as AFR issues.

Mine would push my AFRs at idle to 19-20AFR and run rough as soon as the car ramped down from cold start. Lean and stinky. Driving around seemed OK but I could always tell it wasn't right. I replaced all the sensors, even swapped out new ones, tried a new throttle body, checked seals, and spent countless hours trying to figure it out.

My issue turned out to be that I have a full external PCV system, closed loop, dual catch cans, but I was not building enough vacuum in the intake manifold. Confirmed this with a vacuum gauge and later a manometer. It would not build up to the 18-22 in/Hg required and that immediately throws the 2D2E code. Also turned out it wasn't an intake leak. It was due to the design I followed for the external PCV system (Vargas). Their blueprint never mentioned the need for a check valve on the high side and the vacuum relief valve on the valve cover. (Thanks for this find going to martymil).

I also had EXCESSIVE crankcase vacuum after I resolved the lack of intake vacuum. The relief valve and an entire inspection of my PCV loops resolved the crankcase pressure.

Now I run ~ -20 in/Hg in the intake manifold and right around -3 in/Hg in the crankcase.

No more 2D2E and the car just purrs. It also changed the entire way the car drives at lower speeds.

Would you mind sharing diagram of what you have now? What fixed your vacuum excess beyond high side check valve?