A2W Intercooler with A/C - Part 2
- Thread starter doublespaces
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I have the killer chiller setup on a few cars, it works great and doesnt really effect the cabin ac system.
On a mr2 I built with a custom a2w intercooler, 12x5x3 bell core and a 3 gallon tank it would keep theThe Iats in the 60's on a 85 degree day, allllll day long on the dyno if you wanted to. The key to the system is the expansion valve, if you are building a external exchanger from an evaporator, I can take some pictures of the killer chiller one if you'd like. Also those tube style frozen boost cores flat out suck. I've measured huge pressure drop 500hp. They just don't have enough surface area and the core design is poor to flow any kind of cfm to make good power.
On a mr2 I built with a custom a2w intercooler, 12x5x3 bell core and a 3 gallon tank it would keep theThe Iats in the 60's on a 85 degree day, allllll day long on the dyno if you wanted to. The key to the system is the expansion valve, if you are building a external exchanger from an evaporator, I can take some pictures of the killer chiller one if you'd like. Also those tube style frozen boost cores flat out suck. I've measured huge pressure drop 500hp. They just don't have enough surface area and the core design is poor to flow any kind of cfm to make good power.
The killer chiller setup. I've not looked at ac lines or anything yet, but the heater core hijack would work it seems.
You just need to tee off the low and high side line and go to the killer chiller. If it's a 335 I think the low side line is on the driver side. I would build a a2w intercooler that would go in place of the stock ic, I'm sure bell has a similar size core. Mount in the killer chiller the driver side wheel well under the headlight and figure out a place to build a tank. Probably min 1.5 gallon. Build it large enough to fit a decent size rule pump.
I've already looked for barrel style cores that fit in that space. They are all a bit too long to fit there properly it seems. If someone can find me a similar style, with 3" couplers then I'll check it out.
I've been wondering about this and have a sneaking suspicion that cooling the fuel rail could be beneficial and it may not require any modifications other than wrapping it and/or contacting it (along with the injector lines) with some kind of insulating / cooling jacket.
Just looking at the placement of a port-injection fuel rail (as well as the main fuel rail and the six injector fuel lines) I would guesstimate that fuel temperature must be pretty close to the under the hood temps - at least 135F in the summer based on my idling warm IATs (and definitely higher in Arizona, right Doubles?). So if it's 90F outside - your gas tank temp - that's a Tdelta 45F increase, which at the very least could be reduced with thermal insulation. Tdelta will be even bigger on cooler days.
Keep in mind this would be most beneficial for a port-injection setup as the metal injectors themselves being plugged into the cylinder head are probably very close in temperature of the cylinder head. So the hot cylinder head will heat any pre-chilled fuel entering the injector. Then again, high enough fuel flow rates at WOT should have an overall cooling effect in the injectors, with cooler fuel having a bigger effect there.
So what's the benefit of cooling the fuel? (Keep in mind this is all a wild-ass guess and I didn't google any other platforms to try to sound really smart and authoritative, just my 2 cents...)
1. If we can cool the fuel spray entering the cylinder by at least 25*F then I think this should have a similar effect on reducing the overall pre-ignition charge temps, and hence timing drops, as would reducing the IAT by at least 25*F. So, overall, we may be able to increase timing.
2. I suspect keeping the fuel cooler in the injectors may give a tighter and more controlled spray - (Another WAG: because the surface tension of fluids is generally higher the colder the fluid, it would be harder to break up a megadrop of fuel into a mist of microdroplets, etc. Maybe this is a negative for cooling the fuel from an injector's perspective?) But I really have no data. Remember, I did not google.
Overall maybe all we need is a cooling / insulation jacket around a metal air intake manifold and integrated port-injection file line? Fill the cooling jacket with water, air, refrigerant, whatever.
...just wondering.
I thought it was an interesting concept which is why I included that line near the end. I don't know how realistic it is to test that however, particularly when we have methanol available to most people. Personally, I do not run methanol, but perhaps water injection one day. Frankly, I just don't like the concept of dealing with or maintaining yet another thing.
You could always go with the factory headlight sprayers that draw water from the windshield washer tank and have those headlight sprayers hit your FMIC.
Thats a pretty good idea... I am not sure how I would feel about having dirt and grime collecting in that area however.
Ha! I completely forgot I actually had that set up after a boring weekend turned into a project. Set it up so that when I pressed the windshield spray on my steering wheel stalk it sprayed my IC. Fuse for wipers disabled via glovebox switch. Just make sure you put a check valve on that water line before misters lol.
That's the beauty of the factory setup from BMW, check valve is in the system by default.
As for dirt in the FMIC area, it's already there. Rain coats your intercooler and dirt collects there. Drop your FMIC or radiator and watch how much dirt falls out. It is startling.
Que? That project was on my E92. Without a one way check it drains the entire reservoir. I can confirm that
Edit: This was for the windshield line, not headlight spritzers
Edit: This was for the windshield line, not headlight spritzers
Precisely. Don't go off re-inventing the wheel. Beg, borrow and steal! BMW already developed a solution that sprays water below the water line of the reservoir without issue. Just take their parts and reconfigure them. Instead of the nozzles spraying a headlight, have them spray the IC.
Ha Ha! And I remember asking Dzenno what he thought about spraying water on the FMIC 5+ years ago on one of the other forums.
@R.G. how did it work for you? Did you see IATs drop any?
I drove through the west AZ desert a couple weeks ago and saw 120F+ ambient temps...mhd was showing me at 180-190F IAT's. This was driving at 80mph on I10. With those temps and humidity levels of beef jerky, spraying water on your IC will improve the situation.
Over in Virginia when it's 68F and 40% humidity...probably wouldn't be worth the cost of the water however.
Over in Virginia when it's 68F and 40% humidity...probably wouldn't be worth the cost of the water however.
Yeah, you know where I'm coming from then. The reason this is called part 2, is because I made a similar thread years ago. Nobody understood why I would go to this length. I don't run meth, I have a convertible and there simply isn't much room for the hardware and I have little interest in the upkeep. I already run E54 and there just aren't many options. This thread was more for fun than anything, but as I investigated, it should be possible to drop the IATs at least momentarily while you do a pull. Not sure how realistic it would be however.
Man, I never saw IATs higher than 135F. But 180-190F, holy cow!
Have you ever thought about a small tank of compressed air to blow cold air into the intake... you know, "only when necessary"?
Have you ever thought about a small tank of compressed air to blow cold air into the intake... you know, "only when necessary"?
