What else to replace with clutch?

[Krazi3azn]

Getting a spec stage 3+ with steel flywheel. What else do I have to replace? Currently have bell housing bolts and rear main seal.

 

[Sshec152]

Throw out bearing, upgrade to bronze pivot pin, wouldn’t hurt to replace slave and flush with better brake fluid

 

[longnvu]

input shaft seal,

Plastic washer

1

25111434194

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

 

[martymil]

If something goes wrong with your spec clutch you will be left holding your dick in your hand.

do a search

Motiv/Spec N54 clutch warranty nightmare - Clutch failure warranty not honored and poor customer service

 

[fmorelli]

Depends on the mileage of your car and what you'd like to do:

I believe the 335 (assuming that's what you are doing) has aluminum use-once bolts (they stretch). If so they should be replaced with new aluminum bolts or steel. Make sure your output shaft seal on the back of the motor isn't leaking, once the flywheel comes off. If I was dropping the trans, I'd rebuild the shifter assembly parts as it is cheap and right there. I would also do a short shifter, probably swapping in a different BMW shifter vs going to aftermarket, but either way works. A Google search provides options - even BMW has gotten into the short shifter game as they sell a "kit", but it can be done cheaper. Check the output shaft seal on the transmission (they are typically fine in my experience). If you've got good miles on the car, I'd consider replacing wearables in the driveline - flex disc right behind the trans (it's rubber and gets disconnected) and the complete center bearing support (one can buy the bearing alone or the complete assembly - Rein complete assembly is like $65, which is what I'd do). I'd swap trans fluid, especially with the short shift setup - my fluid of preference for the short shift setup is Royal Purple Synchromax. Others may suggest Redline.

Aside from the aluminum stretch bolts, you don't have to do any of the above. But that said, those are the items I'd be looking to do if I was doing having the trans out of the car. Good luck!

Filippo

 

[fmorelli]

Edit the URL.

lol ... no coffee yet!

@martymil - sorry to hear about all this. I don't want to sidetrack the OPs thread. But that said it just struck me from reading the URL that it almost seems like your clutch got lost (the sending the wrong measurements and nothing happened after). My experience is that the suppliers typically push the end customer back to the retailer (since that's the customer service face) but I don't know what SPEC does. They have a listed "tech" line phone number. Curious if you called them.

Filippo

 

[Krazi3azn]

If something goes wrong with your spec clutch you will be left holding your dick in your hand.

do a search

Motiv/Spec N54 clutch warranty nightmare - Clutch failure warranty not honored and poor customer service

Well thankfully I got it from fcpeuro, lifetime clutch swaps now

Depends on the mileage of your car and what you'd like to do:

I believe the 335 (assuming that's what you are doing) has aluminum use-once bolts (they stretch). If so they should be replaced with new aluminum bolts or steel. Make sure your output shaft seal on the back of the motor isn't leaking, once the flywheel comes off. If I was dropping the trans, I'd rebuild the shifter assembly parts as it is cheap and right there. I would also do a short shifter, probably swapping in a different BMW shifter vs going to aftermarket, but either way works. A Google search provides options - even BMW has gotten into the short shifter game as they sell a "kit", but it can be done cheaper. Check the output shaft seal on the transmission (they are typically fine in my experience). If you've got good miles on the car, I'd consider replacing wearables in the driveline - flex disc right behind the trans (it's rubber and gets disconnected) and the complete center bearing support (one can buy the bearing alone or the complete assembly - Rein complete assembly is like $65, which is what I'd do). I'd swap trans fluid, especially with the short shift setup - my fluid of preference for the short shift setup is Royal Purple Synchromax. Others may suggest Redline.

Aside from the aluminum stretch bolts, you don't have to do any of the above. But that said, those are the items I'd be looking to do if I was doing having the trans out of the car. Good luck!

Filippo

My car has pretty low mileage so I ended up doing this.
Fly wheel bolts
Bell housing bolts
Rear main seal
Output shaft seal

 

[DCook]

Cdv delete while there, redline mtl fluid. Poly trans mounts. I modified e60 delrin bushings for the shift arm to body, where it has the two connect points on the trans and a turner shift arm bushing. Toss all rubber while there. That stupid 1st to 2nd lockout at wot isnt fun.....

 

[fmorelli]

On the trans mounts I suggest considering upgraded rubber bushings, which keeps the NVH like factory while reducing the trans movement.

http://www.rogueengineering.com/Rogue-Engineering-Transmission-Mounts_p_137.html

Filippo