Update- SOLVED! Diagnosing electrical malfunction, please HELP!

Cornfed54

Specialist
Feb 6, 2018
80
31
0
Ride
E92 335
I am stumped guys. My car is an 07’ 335i 6mt with 133k, well kept and meticulously maintained. About every bolt on you could have aside from meth and a built motor. Tuned with JB4 bef with Pi for about 15k trouble free miles aside from turbo issues. I have Recently replaced some failed Hybrid twins with a fresh set and went to prime oil system after the car sat for approx 7 months. The car cranked over and fired right up to my surprise, apparently enough fuel pressure to start despite pulling the fuel pump fuse earlier that evening.

Out of fear of harming turbos prematurely, I immediately killed the engine, it ran less than 2 sec max. I disconnected the battery, then relieved any remaining pressure from the fuel system via the fitting on the fuel rail. I reconnected the battery, seemed like maybe a little more
“spark” than typical when I put the ground cable on, but nothing that alarmed me.

I went to start the car and this is where the party begins, :rage:car wouldn’t even attempt to turn over, power windows don’t work, sunroof doesn’t work, wipers started going full blast by themselves, followed by airbag warning, dsc, tpms, etc. I attached screen shots from my Autel scan tool, mainly wheel speed sensors, steering angle, dme errors, Kombi, Jbe, frm. When I clear the codes, nothing changes as far as dash errors and still no attempt to start. I don’t think it’s a battery cable/ terminal issue as I have 12.5v at the Jump terminal under the hood as well as the wire running off the alternator and starter. Beemergeeks protool connected once and then lost connection before I could run any tests. I haven’t tried inpa and can’t get reingold working on my laptop so I’m hindered there. I have had luck connecting via my Autel scanner as well as Bav Tech program. Bav tec scanner can’t manually control windows or ac fan. It can cycle the electric water pump but it’s kind of sporadic.
My gut assumption was a bad JBE, I ordered a working used one out of a 07’ 335xi, swapped it in and got the same result. Would not having it coded to my car be an issue as far as not even letting me test fire the car? I’ve checked my grounds under the hood, as well as the wires and connectors having anything to do with my recent turbo install. I added PR coils and new plugs at the same time, the car fired right up for a sec so I don’t think the coils would be related??... I’m stumped guys and don’t know what to do from here, I’m all ears for advice, I’m familiar with bmw’s and am capable of basic electrical testing and diagnosis when pointed in the right direction. The headlights work, the power locks sometimes work, sometimes not, I have a aftermarket android ccc Nav., the screen turns on and displays all the ccc errors and main menu but doesn’t respond to steering wheel controls, or idrive knob. Hvac controls don’t work at all, power seats don’t work. Scan tool pics are attached, apologies for the long post, I wanted to give details that could help, thank you in advance for your input, I’m ready to enjoy my car again!
 

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NoQuarter

Major
Nov 24, 2017
1,662
1,066
0
Indiana, USA
Ride
Z4 35is, 535xi, X5 35i
How about this....

The OBD connects directly to the DME and to the JBE. Disconnect the OBD from the JBE completely then see if you can get a connection to the DME from your Autel.

also, Get a battery charger on this. Don't want to be chasing our tail due to a weak a battery. In fact, I wouldn't do anything else until my battery charger showed 100%.
 
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doublespaces

Administrator
Oct 18, 2016
9,303
4,332
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AZ
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2009 E93 335i
Term 15 missing? I think that means it isn't getting power, I forget which power terminal that is however. And yes, anything related to the battery, make sure you have one that is strong in the vehicle. These cars don't follow normal diagnostic troubleshooting steps as a weak battery can make plenty of things not work properly.
 
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NoQuarter

Major
Nov 24, 2017
1,662
1,066
0
Indiana, USA
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Z4 35is, 535xi, X5 35i
Term 15 is the ignition switch on I think

Check the fuse links in the carrier on top of your battery. F108 provides the power to the JBE

27102
 
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Cornfed54

Specialist
Feb 6, 2018
80
31
0
Ride
E92 335
I have the battery on a charger, it is fairly new, about 18mo. old. It sat for several months prior to getting the car done and running into these issues so its possible the battery isn't the strongest. Last night, I had 12.6v when starting my INPA diagnosis so I believe I have enough juice but anything is possible with these cars. I was finally able to communicate with the DME via INPA. Big thanks to @doublespaces & @NoQuarter for offering suggestions and advice! I will check my fuses on the battery terminal this morning, great suggestion, I didn't even know there were fuses there:hushed:.

I believe you are right Tyler, terminal 15 is the ignition hot wire, and I think it becomes active on the second press of the "stop start" button, or if your clutch/brake is depressed, it should come on with first button press. My car acts like I haven't pushed the clutch in, requires me to hit stop start twice before it goes to "on" from "ACC". I hear the throttle blade move but no fuel pump prime or any other signs its ready to start. Here is a rundown of what I have been able to determine thus far.

INPA will connect and read most modules in the car, except JBE. Some of the "activations" either don't work, or they act screwy, for example, activating the rad fan will cause the water pump to run] hard but no fan.. Viewing DME live data shows values that are waaay off on pretty much every sensor I checked, oil temp 940C for example... I am able to run all the tests on KOMBI and all seems well there. No CAS codes or issues that I can see. The DME codes mostly seem to relate to CAN BUS "time outs" and communication errors. There is a EKP shadow code as well as a "vehicle crash, fuel shut off" code in history but hasn't come back since I cleared codes. I would think that if the BST blew, I wouldn't have power coming out the other side of the battery terminal or at the jump point under the hood, am I right? While digging under the dash, I saw it appears the previous owner must have had an issue with the blower motor wiring as it appears to have been replaced like they do via the recall, no signs of overheating at the connector thankfully. Also, the date stamp on the positive wire coming from the trunk to fuse panel is dated 2012 so its been replaced at some point as well. No sign of corrosion on any electrical junctions under the dash.

I swapped in a used JBE from a 2007 328XI and pretty much got the same response from the car. I tried to code this JBE via NCS but I get a VIN error every time. Does anyone know why it would keep giving me VIN error? I triple checked to make sure I entered it correctly, every time I enter it, NCS ends up adding an "8" at the end of my VIN. Also, NCS doesn't show JBE as an option to code for some reason. All I see listed are several KOMBI options and CAN MOST options. I put the stock JBE back in and NCS still gave the vin error and no option for JBE. I am far from experienced with NCS so could be my fault here.
Today, I plan to try all of No Quarter's suggestions as well as completely removing my JB4 piggyback to eliminate that as a possible issue. I imagine as tied in as the JB4 is to CAN BUS, it could possibly cause big issues if it failed, not sure if a JB4 could cause a car not to start as well as all the SRS , TPMS, and DSC issues, but I will eliminate it as a possibility regardless. I will report back this evening with my results. Big Thanks to everyone for your help, this has me stumped and ready to push my car off a cliff haha. Replacing "Better than OEM, hybrid" turbos with busted turbines 3 times in 5k miles would make anyone mad, having your dash turn into a Christmas light show on top of it, no bueno.
 

JuniorB

Sergeant
May 9, 2017
343
112
0
Rhode Island
Ride
07 e60
I had a similar issue with all amenities going bezerk for no reason. No power to the windows, and the wipers going on there own. I found my micro power unit in the spair tire well was corroded. Funny thing is the trunk was dry, I had gotten after in there from my car cover, I’d look here first, this powers the body control module, or it’s in relation with one another. The wipers start going by themselves, lol. Sounds like there may be a main ground, or corrosion in the trunk. Your loosing communication with the bcm.
 

Cornfed54

Specialist
Feb 6, 2018
80
31
0
Ride
E92 335
UPDATE! It's fixed! I was running out of possible culprits to check, and having trouble getting ISTA D to help because so many errors were a side effect of the real problem. It ended up being the JBBF module, ( Junction Box for almost all electronic functions). I still don't know why it failed, nor why swapping it out with the used Ebay one i bought, didn't initially resolve the problem.
I actually ended up swapping a few of the relays from the new one onto my O.E. one since Winkfp wouldn't communicate with the replacement JBBF to allow me to code it. All I know is this was frustrating as hell and i basically got lucky that my idea worked. I hope this is the last of my electrical woes on this car but we all know better, its a 12y.o BMW after all. The only remaining issue is with the ZSL giving me sunroof errors and not operating properly. I tried to re-initialize it but couldn't for some reason. Its running great with the rebuilt turbos, the other upside is i haven't accumulated mileage in 9 months from the car being down. Lets hope turbo rebuild #4 is the last one i ever need.... Thanks to all who gave their input and suggestions, i truly appreciate it.