Servotronic on a 335i

doublespaces

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A member on m3post helped me out:

61136919422
07119904182
07129904150

I've ordered these parts and will hope my subframe has the same provision.
 

doublespaces

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For LHD cars, there is a rubber grommet behind the fusebox that leads to the ECU compartment. You may not need to pull the fusebox to access it, but you can probably feel it with your fingers. This is what it looks like:
View attachment 4442

Start by pulling the ECU box out of the ECU compartment:
View attachment 4443

On the left, you can see a rubber stub sticking out. This is not occupied on my car, so I used scissors and cut it off:
View attachment 4444

Next I lubed up the white connector and shoved it through:
View attachment 4445

Connect this to the harness on the other side and then pull back so the white connector plugs the hole for at least some kind of seal:

View attachment 4446

Next I used another harness inline and ran it behind the grommet leading toward the driver side of the car:
View attachment 4447

Put the ECU box back in, and then you'll have a plug sticking out that can be ran along the firewall to the driver side, then down toward the servotronic solenoid. I have yet to do this, then I'll have it coded:
View attachment 4448

Okay, I have determined that while you can indeed run the wire through the firewall this way, its probably better to do it on the drive side. It would be pretty easy for me to just run the wire across the engine bay under the cowl, but I feel like it would be cleaner if I went under the dash after all. On the M3, the wire enters the cabin on the drive side I believe, so I will probably be reversing this work at some point and doing it on the drive side instead.

I installed the servotronic cable holder:
zWmPw5G.png

xWO1kmV.png

wqf5pfH.png

rtNCyrw.png


And here is a look behind the fender liner where the wire goes, 'somewhere':
nxPYFNa.png


I'm pretty sure the wire in that picture leads to the side marker. There is also another harness that goes into the side of the body in the fender area into a grommet, but I'm not sure what that is, its not really accessible unless you pull the fender. I think I'll go up to that wire, and follow that wire back up into the engine bay and then enter the firewall by the DSC, which is what @BMWJunkie said he did.
 

aus335iguy

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VTL aka Yoda on the Australian forums has explained that if you change to servotronic rack but don’t change the SZL the DSC thinks there’s less steering angle than you really do and it’s therefore easier to kick the back end out.

So Seems that the SZLs are matched to the rack and in order for the assistance management to intervene properly you need them for that but it’s not essential. This could be why they are needed for retrofit

Adds credence to my theory that M drive settings aren’t anything to do with KOMBi or SZL really. Still a long bow to draw as they say
 

doublespaces

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VTL aka Yoda on the Australian forums has explained that if you change to servotronic rack but don’t change the SZL the DSC thinks there’s less steering angle than you really do and it’s therefore easier to kick the back end out.

So Seems that the SZLs are matched to the rack and in order for the assistance management to intervene properly you need them for that but it’s not essential. This could be why they are needed for retrofit

Adds credence to my theory that M drive settings aren’t anything to do with KOMBi or SZL really. Still a long bow to draw as they say

Interesting... So I wonder if the SZL can be programmed somehow. I've got a couple of m3 clockspring/szl combo things on my watch list.
 

doublespaces

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I finally finished the wiring for the Servotronic. Now to just get the coding done.

I started by tracing a wire the entire path I wanted to run the wire and then extended the harness so it would reach:
2018-03-09 09_30_47-Microsoft Edge.png 20180309_011552_001.jpg

Then picking up where I left off from the ecubox, I ran the wire under a piece of rubber trim across the engine bay on the firewall over to the DSC area:
20180309_013746.jpg 20180309_013759.jpg 20180309_013908.jpg

Then go down and over until you can push it behind the cardboard/cloth cover:
20180309_014801.jpg 20180309_015338.jpg 20180309_015721.jpg

Then hitch onto the wiring loom that is here and follow it out the hole and across to the fender liner:
20180309_020340.jpg 20180309_021517.jpg

And then you will be able to run the wire down to the other plug:
20180309_021423.jpg


Now you're done, but I actually recommend that you run the wire through the firewall on the driver side instead, and then run the cable under the dash, but this is one way to do it.
 
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LMB335is

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I can do it, I'd just need to research what changes were made in a couple of the more complete swap threads out there. Really nothing more than adding $216 to the VO, some default coding, and some specific changes in the JBBF from what I remember. If you can find someone local I'd try that route first so you don't need to dick around getting the software installed on your laptop. Otherwise I'd be happy to help.
 

doublespaces

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It should already be installed as I've had remote coding done before. I'll send you a PM.
 

doublespaces

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I'm happy to say the Servotronic is working as expected, thanks to @LMB335is for the coding which went very smoothly. Currently, the assist is maxed, you can tell it struggles a little bit when you get at or near the locks. There is also a very slight lag feeling when transitioning from left to right, presumably all of these symptoms are due to the weaker power steering pump than is found in the M3 and 1M.

I'm going to take the car out for a road test and see how it feels, but I think I'd like to turn the assist down so the pump can be more comfortable. I'd also like to retain some assist at speed, to minimize the impact ruts in the road tend to have. I've found myself being pulled across the lane more than once when doing a pull because of them. I'm hoping the 1M configuration will be a match for what I need.

 

R.G.

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Ok
So if I’m only after the gearing of the M3 rack and don’t mind the lack of servtronic are there any glaring negatives Im missing other than the SZL issue?
 

doublespaces

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Ok
So if I’m only after the gearing of the M3 rack and don’t mind the lack of servtronic are there any glaring negatives Im missing other than the SZL issue?

Which SZL issue exactly? I didn't change mine out, although I do have a performance wheel and the SZL is usually different because it has more pins.
 

doublespaces

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TLDR: There may be multiple versions of the Luk pump installed in our cars, some of the part numbers correspond to Luk pumps with 135 bar ratings, which is the same as the 1M Bosch pump rating. It may be possible your vehicle already has a power steering pump strong enough for Servotronic and Active Steering.

In diagnosing some power steering issues I started having, I am beginning to think the 1M power steering pump is actually the same as the Active Steering pumps, and there may be some cheap unbranded aftermarket versions of this pump floating around our favorite outlets.

A few things to notice, here is the 1M pump:
upload_2018-8-12_23-21-54.png

It comes in two part numbers:
32417845419 which was then superseded by reman part #32417848360 and is also called the Bosch KS01000729. Bosch KS00000759 also comes up when doing a search using external number, I figure this is the new unit.

This is information on the KS01000759 from the bosch-automotive-catalog.com
upload_2018-8-13_0-41-59.png


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Now here we have the 135i Active Steering pump, notice any similarities? They are exactly the same, except there is another module for the electronic portion of the active steering solenoid:
upload_2018-8-12_23-42-4.png

Part number 32416779245 is found on all 1 and 3 series with Active Steering.

According to the Bosch site, this part number comes up as two different Bosh parts, the KS01000725
upload_2018-8-13_0-37-24.png


And the KS00000755
upload_2018-8-13_0-38-10.png


---------------

Now here is the 135i non-active steering pump, notice there is no bulge, and the casting is different around the fluid feed inlet:
upload_2018-8-12_23-52-31.png


This part number 32416779244 This is also the same part number which shows up on all the non-Active Steering 1 and 3 series.

I'm able to corroborate this so far, because photos of my power steering pump looks just like the diagrams:
upload_2018-8-13_0-9-35.png


This part number does not turn up in the Bosch catalog, and probably for good reason: It probably isn't made by Bosch. When I look this part up, I keep seeing references to Luk LF-30, which appears to be an E36 and E46 pump: 32416756582

When you look at the photo of my pump above, it does not say Luk like this one does:
upload_2018-8-13_1-14-36.png


Instead, what it says most likely is ixetic, which stands for ixetic GmbH, a Luk spinoff:
https://translate.google.com/transl...ps://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ixetic&prev=search

Reports online state the LF-30 is a 120 bar pump:
upload_2018-8-13_1-35-29.png


However I have seen a 135 bar Luk part number: LH2114094 and BMW Part # 32416777321 which appears to be an E60 part:
upload_2018-8-13_1-37-59.png

upload_2018-8-13_1-39-16.png

(Speaking of which, maybe the E60 and E90/E82 parts could be interchanged for fitment reasons because of of these E60 pumps are wildy different in design)

And if you look VERY closely, on this Luk pump it says 135 bar, and without a doubt carries the Luk casting:
upload_2018-8-13_1-43-49.png


--------------

So going off this information, it appears the 1M power steering pump and the Active Steering vehicles actually share the same pump casting as they are both Bosch parts. When you think about it, this makes sense because Active Steering is supposed to also include servotronic-like capabilities, both of which requir a stronger pump.

The problem I'm presented with, is that I'm not so sure which pumps are getting installed in which cars. Some might be the 120 bar pump, and others might be the 135 bar pump. Next time someone has access to one, they should look for some stickers.

==========================

Now with that information in hand, if you wanted to try a bosch style casting pump anyway, I've found a variety of these Bosch style pumps in the aftermarket which use the same casting as the 1M/Active Steering pumps, its just a question of the internals being able to flow/pump the same amount or not:

upload_2018-8-13_0-19-11.png

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3241677924...-BMW-E91-E92-335i-135i-2007-2013/192541899007

Maybe you prefer Amazon?
upload_2018-8-13_0-21-41.png


https://www.amazon.com/NICECNC-2008-2013-2013-2013-2007-2013-32416779244/dp/B06WGSBPLM/

-----------------

In the end, you should probably just go look at the bottom of your power steering pump and see what pressure rating it is labeled. If it says 135 bar, I doubt there is any reason to change it out.

Also be careful when looking up these parts, as some of them appear reversed, possibly for RHD or different motors.
 
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paul_

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Sep 11, 2018
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Hello. I have upgrated my E91 BMW steering rack with servotronic from M3. I've added to the VO the servotronic code $216. I've also connected the servo valve to the GBBF3. I've codded the servotronic option to active but nothing happened and the servotronic is not working. The steering rack is heavy.
Do you have any idea how to handle this issue? May I ask for some help. Thank you in advance.
 

doublespaces

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Hello. I have upgrated my E91 BMW steering rack with servotronic from M3. I've added to the VO the servotronic code $216. I've also connected the servo valve to the GBBF3. I've codded the servotronic option to active but nothing happened and the servotronic is not working. The steering rack is heavy.
Do you have any idea how to handle this issue? May I ask for some help. Thank you in advance.

Unfortunately I don't have any suggestions for you myself assuming you have a JBBE2.

You may want to try @LMB335is as he did my coding.
 

dyezak

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Just a shot in the dark, but run a full car diagnostic with ISTA-D and see what the results are. Any strange codes?